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Ford Explorer Air Conditioner and Heater Problems

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  • 1998 ford explorer 5.0l. I cannot get any vacuum to the heater control valve so it opens or closes when the temperature is changed. As a result I have cold air only. If I push it closed I have heat, Unfortunately there is no vacuum to hold it closed. Does anyone have a clue where I can begin to look to find the solution.

    Thanks
  • I dont know how it is on a 98 (not sure if its any different thana 96) but there isnt a vacuum that holds the blend door shut. It is mechanically moved by a motor thats is placed on the top of the door.
  • I had a 96 and had to replace the entire heater box due to a broken blend door.
    The blend door is controled by a motor that sits on top of the heater box. The heater control valve is located against the fire wall on the passanger side. It is an inline diaphram devise that controls the flow of water into the heater via of a vacuum. My blend door is working fine, the issue I have is lack of vacuum to the valve. Thanks for your reply

    bb
  • Did you ever get this issue resolved. I am haviing the same problem with my 98 explorer,

    bb
  • This is BJohnson. Can you tell me exactly how your husband got the glove box out? After you open the glove box, what do you do to pop it out, and did you say that the lever you need to close will be to the left? I havent had any heat or defrost for 3 months and am almost desperate to get it fixed. Shops want like $900 to fix it! Thanks for any help you can give me.
  • this is bjohnson. I am trying to close the blend door as you spoke of. I got the glove box out and I can clearly hear the ticking, but I dont have a clue what I am looking for in order to push a tab forward to close the door. Can you please tell me anything to help me find it? Thank you for your time.
  • bb:
    I did the fix described at the web link on my followup message (#64). It's working so far. The only thing I did different was to get an aluminum bar about 1/8" x 1/2" and bend it in an L--shape, so that I could use it as a lever to move the door to one side before putting the motor back on. Once I figured out which way the V-notch was oriented (see the picture in the web link) I tried to drill the hole for the finishing nail to bridge across the top of the V. That way, when the white post rotates to move the mix door, it has something to push against in both directions.

    I hope this helps and makes sense. Good luck! -H
  • I just bought this truck. I have replaced the water pump and thermostat. Now the temp guage rises then lowers. its running hot then cold and the heater is blowing cold air.
  • Thanks for the info. Yes, I tried this it got it to work as you did but the fix only lasted a couple of days. I just purchased the heater box for a full replacement of the unit. I did a 1996 Explorer a few years ago, it was a pain, took the entire weekend. The dash has to come away enough to slide the unit out. In the engine area your work is also cut out for you just to get the nuts that are holding the heater box in place. I do understand why it cost so much to replace (labor) but with the number of issues with this part going bad, Ford should replace for free.
  • I have a 1997 Explorer XLT V6
    The heater is not working, The blower motor is running, both lines going to the heater core are hot. I noticed that the a/c compressor is cycling on and off,I pulled the a/c system fuse #18 and the compressor stopped cycling, but still no heat! The engine is getting warm and at idle the temp gauge is running in the middle of the h and the c? any thing else I can check?
  • i just had the very same problem i have discovered that the radiator and heater core were plugged up there isnt enough circulation of fluid,, is the temp guage going up then back down?
  • No my temp gauge stays in the middle, but both of ny hoses going to the heater core are hot, if the core was plugged wouldn't the hose coming out be cooler than the one going in?
  • Sorry it took so long to reply. I had to fix it myself the other day without my
    husband around. I took out the glove box. (of course the car was running
    with the heat on so I could hear the clicking.) Then, without any light to
    expose what I am working on or headroom to even look, I felt towards the center
    consol until something pushed and made the noise stop. It is done strickly
    by feel, not by sight. I don't think there is anything moving to catch your hand
    on or anythign that might shock you. Just be careful!!! Then you can feel something
    that can be pushed either in or forward. Hope that works.
    It has for us for the past 4 months.
  • Thanks for your help. I will try that and see if it works. Ive tried to feel around in there and my boyfriend has tried to find it with no success. Everyone is telling me we have to take the whole dash apart. But I will try again. My son said he found something like you described, so I will see where we get. Do you have and XLT model or is it something else? Once again thanks alot.
    BJohnson
  • I HAVE HEAT!!!!!!! I tried what you said twice with no luck, my son tried with no luck yesterday and today I asked him to try again and I had him read your message and he went out and came back 5 minutes later and said he found it. I went outside to the truck and there was heat coming out of the vents. Hallelujah! Thank you sooooo much for helping me with this. I have 2 teenagers and a 6 year old who will be so happy to have a warm truck to ride in now. I cant thank you enough! God bless you. BJohnson
  • If you are having the problem with the ticking noise in the dash when you try to turn your heater on, go to message #84 in this forum. This lady knows what she is talking about. I havent had any heat in my truck for 4 months and me and my kids have had a miserable winter without it. I saw her first message explaining her problem and asked for more details, she responded with message #84 in detail and now my heat works. All Hail Harkess!!!
  • I had a broken blend door in my '99 Explorer and I fixed it with a heatertreater that I bought on ebay. Works great and was an easy and cheap fix. I found these guys becuase I also had broken blend doors on my '01 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I used one of their kits to fix that car too.
  • My explorer has no heat, Im in the military so not much cash, and I have a 3 yr old. I NEED HEAT. When the heater is turned on, the rear center counsole blower works but blows semi hot air, the front makes a knock sound once when turned on and then nothing. I took out the glove box and I can see the blower fan when I push up the flap, but its not running. What can I do?
  • Hi, I was wondering if you had any luck fixing your heat. I have a 95 Ford Explorer and my heat is gone. I've check the thermostate and all the lines and vents but everything's good, but still no heat. I was told I might need a Coolant by-pass kit, but the print out I received on the issue doesn't sound like my car. I have to noise coming from my system. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.
  • bbelascobbelasco Posts: 12
    Hello,

    The blend door was broken, as a result you must change the entire heater box.
    I did it myself, but it is not a job to be taken lightly. This involves removal of the the dash as well as air conditioning items located in the engine compartment, passenger side on the fire wall.

    There are other "temporary" fixes. But if you plan to keep the vehicle its the only way to go.

    To see if it is a blend door issues, open up the gove box and lower it to expose the top of the heater box. You will see the motor that operates the blend door. Unplug and remove. Now take a mirror and look at the hole were the blend door motor goes into the box. It should look just like the part that fits down into it. If not, it has broken and entire box must be replaced.
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