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Infiniti G35 Engine Break In

dargib01dargib01 Posts: 1
edited April 10 in Infiniti
I just purchased an 07 G35 Sedan. After I did, I asked my salesperson if there was any recommended engine break-in tips (not revving over X RPM, not driving for long periods of time at the same speed, etc.). I was told there was no break-in period, and drove it hard a couple of times (as well as on a relatively long trip).

Does anyone know if this will adversely affect my car's engine? I've heard conflicting things regarding the issue.

I appreciate any input you may have in advance.
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Comments

  • esfoadesfoad Posts: 210
    Best would be to read the Owner's Manual. ;) My 05 required 1000 miles at no more than 4K RPM but to vary the engine speed as much as possible.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Same on the 2006. I thought it was 1200 miles but I could be wrong.

    I have found the story is the same regardless of where you go: Dealer says no break-in required; book says take it easy for a 1000 miles or so. Porsche was the same.

    That said, I don't think you did any damage, and wouldn't worry about it.

    I do like to drop the oil out at 1000 miles, (and change the filter); have done so for all my cars for several years now. If you examine the filter after 1000 miles I would bet you'll see some metal shavings. I always do. Then I go into a regular schedule of oil changes every 4000 to 6000 miles.

    On break-in..... I was a little disappointed with the performance on the 06 Coupe at first, (after the break-in period). Seemed a bit sluggish compared to the 05 Coupe I had. After 5000 to 6000 miles I started to notice a bit more oomph and now, at 8800 it is everything the 05 was and more. I am satisfied with the pull under acceleration (for a stock set up anyway; wonder what a supercharger would add to seat of the pants reckoning?)

    So a question to those who know or might have an opinion or idea, do cars in this day and age, need to wear in before you get close to performance potential?

    Roll
  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    Not my first experience with a late model car that seems to get better after the first 10,000 miles or so.
    I don't believe they have to be babied. If you have an MT I would certainly avoid lugging the engine. Not easy to do with so much torque BTW.
    But I think warming up the entire drive-train while driving is essential new or old, before romping on it.
    I can understand long garage warm ups of a minute or two in the coldest climates, but normally, we should be on our way in 30 seconds.
    As far as break-in, build up rpms slowly over the first few
    Brakes should be bedded in too, but that's another subject.
    Tires should not be stressed for a couple of hundred miles either. Maybe I am just obsessive, but if you do some research there is a lot to support this.
    Avoid the cruise control, vary speeds at cruise. With the 5AT you can shift periodically between 4 and 5 while on a long trip.
    In summary, enjoy it, drive it 'normally' not like it's race day, except for occasional sprints (like 25 to 70) followed by engine braking/coasting and repeat several times, for helping the rings seat.
  • Most of these sale people are dumb as a box of rocks. Advice: Just break it in. It's logical to do so. ;)
  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    The most basic thing is varying speeds, not holding it a constant RPM. The fact the sales person did not at least know that much says a lot about how little he does know.
    While I agree a good salesperson could sell anything, a smart one will get you the right answer if he does not have them.
  • keitha3keitha3 Posts: 124
    When I took auto shop at a community college quite a few years back, that's what the shop teacher recommended more than anything. He said he took every new vehicle he bought to an isolated stretch of road and repeated taking it from a stop to about 50 or 60 miles (in a gradual manner) and back down to a stop around 15-20 times to break it in properly.

    That's why, if and when I order the G35, I want one that hasn't even been test driven. At least in my neck of the woods, the Infiniti dealer isn't soft on the test drives whatsoever and tells us to let it show us what it can do during our test drives.

    I am obsessive about car care and maintenance and I want to baby my car through the break in, although the temptation to unbridle the thing will be extremely frustrating.
  • I broke mine in easy for the first 500 miles, varying speed, no full throttle, etc. Mine has over 42000 miles on it now and runs great, no oil consumption, etc. Mine has been run for 42K, almost exclusively on 87 octane. and does not ping, runs great, etc.

    I changed it over to Mobil 1 at approx 7000 miles Based on gasoline mileage, I would say the engine broke in at 10000 miles, where the gasoline mileage took a significant increase. Urban mileage is approx 19 - 20 now and normal highway mileage at 80 to 85 is 25.

    I think it could get better at slower speeds, but sorry I cannot accumulate this data.

    Steve
  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    It never ceases to amaze me how folks follow their owner's manual but when it comes to fuel recommendations, if it says 'premium' they think it's a con.

    Of course it will not ping. The timing is retarded thanks to knock sensors and a smart ECU. And mileage will only be slightly affected.
    But wheel HP can be reduced as much as 10%.
  • I agree with you that the engine will not ping. The ECU will pull back the timing if it detects preignition. What I am telling you is that if this is occurring on my 2003 G35s, the effect is much, much smaller than a 10% loss in power, because 10% would be very noticeable to me. Is any loss occurring?? I am not sure. If it is, it is hard to find in a back-to-back run of 87 vs 93 octane fuel, at least up to 90 mph.

    Here are some quotes from the Infiniti Operating Manual that came with my car:

    "Use unleaded regular gasoline with an octane rating of at least 87 AKI." , "You may use unleaded gasoline with an octane rating as low as 85 AKI in high altitude areas", and most interesting"You get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load".

    The funny thing about octane requirements, is that once you have satisfied the basic need, that additional octane rating is of no use at all.

    The octane requirement may well be different on later G35s with their higher engine rated power, as Infiniti may have squeezed the tuning differently in order to advertise more HP . Funny thing is, the newer ones don't seem to be any faster than the 260 hp G35s. Go figure.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Funny thing is, the newer ones don't seem to be any faster than the 260 hp G35s. Go figure.

    Didn't they increase the curb weight along with the horsepower?

    Roll
  • dboedboe Posts: 69
    The manual for the G35 Coupes is very specific, unleaded PREMIUM fuel only.
    I should have made that distinction earlier. The models are tuned for different fuel recommendations.
  • Our G35x is a late 2005. Took a long trip -- Yellowstone -- when it was nearly brand new. We DID vary speeds, stay off the Interstates some, and pull it down into a lower gear at times. In Montana, we stopped at a Nissan dealer (the V6 is plenty familiar to them) when we were near 2000 miles. The Service Mgr. was really convincing that it could go to 3 or 4000. "We NEVER see any "metal flake" in the oil on the first drain". Now the point. I had thought but he said it before I asked -- "DO NOT use synthetic till you have at least 10 - 12,000 miles on it!" he said. "It won't "Break in" properly if you use synthetic". And as to break in ... if anybody reads Car&Driver, pay attention to the "long term tests" that C&D does every few months!! Lots of times a car with 40 to 50,000 miles has BETTER performance and even braking than it did when new. "Back in the day" when I rebuilt a 283 Chevy, I checked the compression before starting it up. Something like 40 psi. Start it, run it a few times, check again -- then like 65 psi. The rings seat, of course. Drove it 2 - 3 weeks and check (a couple cylinders) ... its nearly 95 psi. A year later (putting headers on) I checked again, and it was like 105 to 115 on all!! Break in!
  • kring5kring5 Posts: 144
    The Synthetics question is frustrating.. I have my 07 G35S coming on 2/7 which I ordered in October and I've had a lot of time to google all about this subject and what I find is two things.

    The main point, is no one knows if Synthetics are good or bad, no one has done any testing of any sorts.

    There is considerable talk that conventional oil is better for the car for the first 10-20K miles, that it helps the car break in better then Synthetic. That Syntetic is TOO slick and actually can get past gaskets and such and leak on a new car. This camp has no evidence to support their statements.

    Then there's a smaller crowd which is made up of those that have/follow European Luxury/Performance vehicles and most racing teams. Why is it that ALL European auto makers start off from mile 1 with Synthetics and don't do first oil change until 15,000 miles? They must know something right? but again, they don't have any testing evidence to support their action. However they do have very detailed tests specifically on Synthetic oils vs Conventional Oil, where Synthetic outperforms conventional in every possible way when it comes to heat, viscosity, purity, breakdown, smoke point etc... any test you run, Synthetic is the Energizer so to say.

    So what's to believe? My theory is this, and it's a little bit conspiracy, but makes sense and has evidence to support. Synthetic is better. hands down. Conventional oil in North America has a recommended oil change cycle of 3000 miles. Anywhere else in the world, that exact same quart of oil has a 7500-10000 mile change cycle. Synthetic in North America carries a recommended 5000-7500 mile change cycle, anywhere else in the world it's 15000-25000 miles. Why is this? Well I think it has to do with the service industry greed, 80 years ago we all started out with the same service intervals, but over time, the world has realized it's unnecessary, however in North America we stuck with the lower cycle for little to no reason, other then we were building cars of lower quality and lower tolerance. The dealers and auto mfg's are pushing the consumer to get unnecessary service, just like most of the bundled services they offer at your dealer, to drive up profits. at 30K you don't need a tranny flush!

    So I feel that Synthetic from the start is the BEST you can do for your car. and the service interval is around 15K miles or 12 months, which ever comes first. Now I still struggle with not making the first oil change a litle sooner, so I'll pay for a 3000mi change, then the next one is 15K miles. and go from there.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Synthetic oils do offer more mileage between changes.
    In fact, Mobil 1, 20 years ago, offered 80,000 between changes. (It was doc'd on the bottle)

    It is still recommended to change the oil filter and then top off the oil to replace that which was lost in the filter change.
    This should be done at a much more frequent interval, like 3,000 - 3,5000 miles.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Maybe I'm stuck in the 60's but I can't let an engine go for 15K or even 10K miles without changing the oil; and I use synthetic.

    I change at 1000 miles and always find metal in the filter. I change then every 3 to 4K as long as I have the car. I agree synthetic does not break down like petroleum based oil but I believe the problem is contamination and whether you use synthetic or petroleum, they are both subject to contamination.

    Am I wrong?

    Roll
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I have an 06 Acura MDX

    When I had 2,500 miles on it, I went to the dealer and asked for an oil change.
    This was early, as they suggest the first change at 7,500.

    The service manager sent me home, without my oil change.
    It was explained to me that the oil comes from the factory containing special additives to assist with correct engine break-in and should not be changed out early.

    Dunno... :confuse:
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    Not sure about the break-in but the best way to answer your question is to send a sample in for oil analysis the next time you drop the oil at 3,000 miles. I think you'll find it's way early at 3,000 miles and contamination will be almost nonexistant. I recommend Blackstone Labs. They will help you narrow down a good interval for your engine with the oil you're using. And how long a filter lasts is just a function of capacity. There are filters with much greater capacity than 3,000 miles... some designed for as long as 1 year, 25,000 miles.
  • rollbarrollbar Posts: 297
    Thanks. Technology changes I know.

    As for break-in oil. The dealer dropped my oil at 1000 miles. They did not offer any comment regarding break-in and keeping the original oil in the car longer. Of course, that's not to say they would were it true of the Infiniti, but one can hope.

    Noted regarding send a sample out. Good idea.

    Roll
  • I personally have used synthetic in my 01' TL for the last 4 years. The engine runs much smoother and the mileage is better by about 1 mpg. Recently on a 1600 mile highway trip I got 33-34 mpg at 75-80 mph. Since I live in Florida and synthetic does not break down in the heat it is a big help. I change it once a year, about 8-9 thousand miles. You can feel the difference in the performance. I can only imagine that in the colder weather it will perform even better. It doesn't get thick in colder weather and holds it's viscosity much longer. You have to believe that if some premium auto makers are using it expensive brands that it does have it's advantages. They would not risk engine failures due to oil. I think overall the advantages are great, dealers do not want to do it because of the cost.
  • Not sure if this helps . . or if its even rational, but a buddy of mine is a Lexus Tech out east. He told me one day, well before I bought my g35x, "Dude, would you buy a chainsaw and cut twigs with it for 2 weeks before you finally cut down the tree? Drive what you buy like you're going to drive it from now on." It may not be good advice, but I like the simplicity :).
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