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Infiniti G35 Engine Break In

24

Comments

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Very true.
    I had a friend who had his Dodge Challenger engine rebuilt by a very reputable local company.
    He asked about engine break-in and they said to just drive it, no worries.

    I still break my new cars in in the recommended way.
    No hard braking or acceleration, vary speed and rpm, that sort of stuff...

    But look at Ferrari.
    They hand build their engines, even forging their own blocks.
    They don't break the engines in.
    As soon as a car leaves the assembly area, it goes right to the race track in the back yard, where every model is driven right to it's limits and tested before it ever leaves the factory.

    So, I'll continue to break my cars in, but who knows what it's actually getting me.
    The investment makes it worth the effort and hopefully, it adds to the longevity. :)
  • During the first 12K Follow these recs to obtain max engine performance and ensure the future reliability and economy of your new vehicle.

    Avoid driving for long periods of time at constant speed, either fast or slow. Do not run engine over 4k RPM.

    Do not accelerate at full throttle in any gear

    Avoid quick starts

    Avoid hard braking as much as possible
  • kring5kring5 Posts: 144
    It's actually only for the first 1200mi not 12,000
  • Sorry.....

    No good deed goes unedited
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Yup... those are typical break-in rules.
  • I worked for Infiniti and know first-hand:

    DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL UNTIL AT LEAST 12,000 miles are on your odometer!!

    Synthetic oil is great, but for the VQ (as well as other engines), it's best to put some miles on it before converting to synthetics. This is to allow the valves to seat properly as well as other mechanical reasons. I would actually wait about 15,000 miles myself.

    You're better off changing the tranny oil to a higher quality oil....especially knowing how hard some G drivers are on their rides!

    Good luck!
  • I picked up my 2007 G35X about 12 days ago. In order to get black on black with all the toys I took a car driven on test drives which had about 600 miles on it.

    I was concerned about how the first 600 were layed on the engine, but not concerned enough to wait for another Black on Black to arrive.

    Here's hoping "being gentile" for the first 500 or so isn't too big a deal as I have no idea how the first 600 went on. Though observing the folks test driving lead me to believe they weren't "going for the gusto" with the salesman in the car.

    My test rider was a 2007 Sport, I didn't get on it until we were on route 95, and even then it seems that 3800 RPM takes you to about 80 MPH, fast enough for a test ride.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I visited a dealership in Warwick, RI and drove an 07 G35x, Black on Black, as my tester.
    We didn't just drive that thing. We beat on it. I was actually surprised at what the salesman had me doing. He really wanted to show the seemingly limitless abilities of this vehicle, and did just that.
    It was an awesome 45 mintue test drive.
    I honestly hope your car witnessed calmer test drives than mine.

    I called my salesman 2 weeks later and said let's do it, I want one.
    Blue Slate on Black with the Tech and wood trim packages are next to impossible to find. I was asked if I wanted to wait or take a car with 300-400 miles on it.
    I chose to wait.

    2 days later, he found an unsold one on the boat coming in, and my 6 week wait turned into a 2 week wait.

    One week to go.... :)
  • Did the Black on Black you drove in Warwick have NAV and wood trim?
  • I'd like to know when you had your test drive (date) I getting a little nervous that I bought that tester.

    As I asked earlier, did the terster you drove have wood trim and NAV?
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    LOL

    No, it had Aluminum Trim and didn't even have the Premium package.

    Are you buying from Warwick?
    Did you take a trip to the satellite lot?
    That driveway (road) is narrow and incredibly curvy.
    The salesguy put me in the passenger seat and drove us up that road at 70 MPH.... the car handled it incredibly well.

    Once out there, I saw the Slate Blue and another car which had the Graphite Interior with Wood Trim.
    I was set on color from then on.

    I do not like the after-market OEM wood trim though... very plastic looking and missing buttons show the aluminum trim underneath... YUCK!
    It does not compare to the factory installed African Redwood. :shades:
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    What did you do when you worked for Infiniti? Also, the 2007 G35 calls for the specific Nissan transmission fluid only. Not the usual "or similar"... "or approved."
  • My first post to Edmunds, so forgive me for not reading through prior discussions on this subject.

    The "break in" of a new vehicle was thoroughly explored in a magazine several years back...I think it was "Corvette Fever". Chevrolet (like virtually all manufacturers) recommends taking it easy for the first 1K miles or so....but the message was for all cars. Here's the bottom line, which I think explains a lot of the mis-information on this subject:

    The engine itself is mostly broken in when the car is delivered...certainly broken in enough that it won't hurt anything to run it fairly hard. However, the "system" of engine, transmission, U-joints, drive shaft, differential, half-shafts, bearings, axels, etc., have not been broken in as a "system" where all the parts that were built independently are forced to work together. there are some small alignment variables during assembly, so the independent parts need "break in" with each other. So, the reason for being gentle on the car has to do with this "system" getting aligned, worn in, meshed, or whatever you want to call it. You don't want to put a lot of force on the "system" until everthing seats in and works together.

    That's not say you would do any damage to the car by romping on it immediately. My personal opinion is that some small amount of hot rodding doesn't hurt, and any damage would not show up for many thousands of miles, if ever. But I can't see that it hurts to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, either.

    As for oil, I've posted widely on this subject in other vehicle forums. The whole subject of waiting for 10K miles or so before converting to synthetics is total BS. I would simply point to the long, and ever increasing list of cars that come from the factory with synthetics and recommend using only synthetics: Mercedes, BMW, Porsche, Corvette, Ferrari, Viper, and on and on.

    I'm not going to get into it in this post, but you can think of "synthetics" as very pure oil. You can also think of "conventional oil" as very dirty synthetic. It's all oil; there's no harm in using synthetics in your car from the start, and you will get the benefits of using synthetics, which is mainly thermal stability...the oil doesn't break down under heat as readily as conventional oil.

    And in closing, I'll add a couple of other comments: 1) There's no industry agreement as to exactly what "synthetic" means, and in fact, there was a lawsuit over this subject some years back, where Mobil lost out. Group III, IV, and V (and soon-to-be VI GTL) base oils are all considered "synthetic"; and 2) The cars with very long change intervals (Porsche @ 20K miles; Mercedes out to 30K miles, etc.) all use synthetics. However, those oils for European autos are certified to ACEA (European) standards, rather than SAE, IPCEA, or Jaso standards (SL, SM, GF-4, GF-5). You can go to your local Walmart and check it out....the Mobil1 "Extended Performance" oils all meet the ACEA standards (as well as SAE/IPCEA standards), while the regular Mobil1 does not. What you are getting in these "Extended Performance" oils is some extra additives to protect during long change intervals. The Europeans are way ahead of the Americans/Japanese on this subject of extended drain intervals.

    Any of you can check it out on Google with the various buzz words above, but I'll try to write more later.

    The Lurkin Merkin
  • sportsfansportsfan Posts: 27
    Here is another question for you:

    Is it true that the only difference between premium and regular gas is that premium burns slower? My friend says he is a ASC mechanic and that I am wasting my money, if i put premium in my 06 g35x; because it runs on regular.

    Is this true? I've tried both regular and premium. The mileage is pretty much the same. I only get about 200 miles per tank. I have 3627 miles on it so far (bought the car in late november)

    thanks in advance for your help ;)
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 3,207
    Thanks for joining in. It's pleasant to read posts from people who actually know what they're talking about & cite sources.

    There are several other threads that would benefit from your post, some devoted entirely to oil, so if you're that way inclined, you could comment in those as well.

    The BMW folks are especially anal about this sort of thing, as am I.

    Thanks again & welcome aboard.
  • smokey75smokey75 Posts: 434
    It doesn't burn slower, but is harder to ignite from compression. The engine in the G is a high compression engine, meaning the pistons compress the mixture of fuel and air more than some before the mixture is ignited by the spark plug. By compressing the mixture more, it makes a bigger "boom" when it does fire, giving more power. Now sometimes with regular fuel the mixture will explode just from compressing it before the spark plug ignites it. This is called pinging, or knocking and this is how a diesel engine works without spark plugs. The octane of a fuel is just a measure of its' resistance to doing this. Higher number octane on the AKI (Anti-Knock Index), the more it can be compressed without knocking. Now the reason you can use regular fuel in the G also is because it has a knock sensor. When it detects knocking it retards the ignition timing, but this gives you less power, and according to some, less MPG. Personally I've never understood why someone would spend $30,000-$40,000 for a SPORTS sedan and then reduce the power to save $.20 per gallon. But that's just my opinion.
  • yogiowneryogiowner Posts: 117
    i agree with you that it is not to bright to spend money on a sports sedan, then chince on the gas. I've been putting premium in for the past few months for that very reason.

    the manual says it takes regular, but i put the premium in. i have a friend who says that premium is a waste of money. however, i think the manufacturer recommends it for a reason.

    thanks so much for the thorough explanation. Any other feedback is greatly appreciated.

    i just had my first servicing. After the oil and filter change, the car seems to run so much smoother (3900 miles).

    i just love this car.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I just had my first servicing. After the oil and filter change, the car seems to run so much smoother (3900 miles).

    I've also heard a lot of owners say that their gas mileage has gone up since hitting approx 3,500 miles.
    You had any luck in that dept?
  • yogiowneryogiowner Posts: 117
    I am looking for that now....it seems as though i am getting an extra couple of miles. I've been measuring/monitoring per half tank. This week, it seems to be a bit better. I am about fifteen to twenty miles better on this half tank than the previous. I was getting roughly 200 per 15 gallons. This week I am at 174 miles (on the trip odometer) with a little less than 1/4 of a tank more than I typically had at the same point.

    I primarily use, Mobile, BP/Amoco or Lukoil gasoline (premium). I tried Hess - didn't feel right and burned very very quickly. I had the same issue with Shell gas.

    Any suggestions on gas would be greatly appreciated...
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I find it hard to go by just the gauge.
    I go to the pump and fill it until the handle clicks (full tank)
    I also set my trip meter back to 0.
    I then drive and when I go to get gas again, I fill until it clicks again.
    I then divide the miles by the exact amount of gas (gallons) it took to fill, which gives me mileage per gallon.

    I'm currently at 19.34 miles per gallon, with 1,800 miles on the car, at approx 50/50 city/highway travel.
    Some people are reporting as high as 25 50/50 driving.

    I'd love to see that, but I knew what I was buying when I got this car and I'm happy with borderline 20 MPG with the amount of performance this thing offers.
    I know my mileage would go up some if I could just calm my right foot down. :P
This discussion has been closed.