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Mazda 626 Transmission Questions



  • I have a 2001 mazda 626 and have the trans. cooler on it already and it works great but i just recently put a trans tune product in form autozone and my overdrive light started flashing but it sifts and runs normal. what should i do?
  • bt100bt100 Posts: 3
    I Own a 1998 Mazda 626 lx V6 automatic, I just purchased it 3 months ago in what I thought was great shape.. It has now began to have many different issues. First the check engine light stays on, then the RPM starts to go higher than before going up to 2500-3000 before switching. It felt like it was just delayed a few seconds more then normal. I then took it to mazda and they said the diagnostic was "PO400, EGR system flow malfuntion which may be plugged or open "was causing the engine light to stay on and that I need a new transmission to fix the gear switching issue. Now the brake light has started to come on when I stop, but the brakes are fine. Then I went to start it today and it felt like the starter was toast, (wasn't doing anything).........I tried it a few more times then it worked.....clearly alot of issues....can they all be related to the EGR valve? I really can't think about getting a transmission, and am needing some help with winter coming!!! Anyone???
  • So why is it happening only with Mazdas build until the year 2000? Are the ones from 2001/2002 having that cooler already installed? I was just curious, because I have a 2001 one and I want to check if I have that cooler.
  • blochbloch Posts: 2
    How do you know if you have the Mazda LA4A-EL or the GF4A-EL transmission
    the car is a 2.0L 16 valve DOHC and the trans started slipping and I was going to put new fluid and a new filter in it for my brother in law but it doesnt look like there is any way to drop a pan or get in side of the tranny

    the car is a 2000 626

    Any ideas Thanks
  • blochbloch Posts: 2
    I did some more reading and it seems all the 4 cylnders have the LA4A-EL and it looks like they are non serviceable maybe? at least for me I think to really fix the problem I will have to take it to a transmission place

    any ideas??
  • I would avoid dropping the pan. I would also avoid power flushing the tranny fluid, as this can cause a lot more damage in the poorly designed Ford tranny's. :sick:

    What I strongly recommend is to add a Tranny Cooler, since the major reason the tranny fails in the first place is because of heat.

    Mazda was taken over by Ford in the late 90's, and used a whole bunch of Ford parts in the 626 line. What they put in the 626 was a poorly designed radiator, which in turn did a really bad job keeping the Tranny Fluid, which runs through the radiator (in a separate area) cool.

    Ford quielty changed the Radiator after 2001/2002 after they recieved a whole bunch of legal complaints. The problem almost became a recall issue, but, since the did not produce a whole bunch of 626 automatics (mostly Manual's) just fell short of the government taking legal action. :lemon:

    They told the dealers to simple replace the radiator and/or install an aux tranny cooler to fix the problem.

    So, as a 1998 626 owner with a tranny that slips, the best advice I can give is to slowly switch the tranny fluid to Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF, FOUR "4" quarts at a time.

    Search the internet for "How do I change the fluid in my CD4E?" for more details on doing a "MANUAL" flush of the tranny. It must be a Manual Flush to reduce stirring up the sludge and clogging the fillter (which is a simple screen).

    A Manual flush consists of jacking the car (on ramps) and disconnecting the return to the tranny, placing the end of the hose in a bucket.

    I recommend changing 4 quarts at a time, every few thousand at three equal intervals (Say every 3000 miles) untill most, if not all the fluid is Synthetic.

    You should notice a sligh difference the first 4 quarts (Less Harder Shifts), which will slowly (over the frist 1000 miles or so) loose it effectiveness as the tranny fluid in the torque convert mixes with the Synthetic.

    I got an extra 20,000 miles (so far) out of a tranny that was slipping and causing the fail safe mode to trigger since I added a Tranny Cooler and Manual Flushed the fluid to Synthetic.

    Hope this helps.
  • I have a 1990 626 DX 4 cylinder 2.2L, it has an auto trans in it. It never works quite right due to an oil pump which was subsequently re-designed after about 1995 I believe. Anyway, I serviced it by changing the fluid several times, and finally the fluid and FILTER, but also ADJUSTING THE BAND inside the pan when I did so. I also used a cleaning agent in the fluid for a while, but drained it in less than a few months, as transmission fluid cleaning agents DO damage seals as well as clutch bands, but can loosen deposits, which is good. There is one that is the safest to use called Trans Tune by Seafoam. After all of this, the transmission is noticably better, however, it still has intermittant issues due to the poor design of the oil pump, still, I would have had to get rid of the car if I hadn't done all of that to it. One problem is, the transmission pan is hard to remove on these cars(the crossmember has to come off, after disconnecting the balljoint) BAND ADJUSTMENT IS KEY IN OLDER CARS.
  • did u ever figure out problem with ur 626 slipping then after u cut it off and back on it goes again i have exact same problem please email me at jason_ulicnik@yahoo.comand let me know i know its been a while thanks in advance
  • saj4922saj4922 Posts: 1
    can any one tell me if any other auto transmissions can go in a 1999 mazda 626 with a 2.0. I know some ford will fit some mazdas anyone know
  • johnr16johnr16 Posts: 14
    I have a 99 626 2 liter With the auto trans...99,000 on it..I really like this car a lot and want to keep it..The engine is tight as a drum..I use Pennzoil platinum 5W-30 and it doesn't use a drop between changes..I've upgraded to Bosch platinum 2 plugs and it runs well..But I am worried about the tranny..After all I've read about how bad this tranny is..Is there any way to keep it alive..I've pulled the drain plug and the fluid is dark but didn't smell burned.It appears that I can only change about three and a half quarts at a time..I would like to replace all of the fluid with synthetic and put some pro-long in it..There have been no real problems so far, although the od light has flashed on occasion..Any suggestions..???
  • kfpflakfpfla Posts: 5
    Hello johnr16,

    The two major things you need to do is:

    1.) Install a Hayden Transmission Cooler, either Hayden 404 or Hayden 679... I prefer Hayden 404 because it has bigger piping than the 679 which doesn't restrict tranny fluid flow (Some use B&M Super Coolers).

    2.) Drain and fill the Transmission with a good synthetic transmission fluid.

    The second step is the most dangerous, since it will require you to manually drain the fluid a few pints at a time, and switch to the synthetic over time. You do not want to power flush the transmission.


    A lot of dealers, and oil change centers will try and sell you on a power flush. This is a very bad idea unless you have owned the car since new, and have power flushed the transmission several times before.

    The older the car gets (90,000+ Miles), the more buildup aquires. When you power flush, all this built up grime gets loose, ending up either gumming the seals or clogging the filter (In a 99 Mazda, it is a non rreplaceable simple metal screen).

    Nothing will kill the Mazda's 626 Automatic Tranmission than clogging up these values and screens. Also, it is very important on an older transmission is to not remove the pan (unless it is leaking around the seals).


    Since you will only want to change out a few quarts the first time, it will be safer to either remove the drain plug, or to remove the rubber line going to the transmission cooler.

    Here is some instructions that i used from another forum, provided by Mad Hatter in Wisconsin.

    Gentle Flush your Mazda Automatic Transmission. :)

    Items needed-
    Large pan for draining
    5-7 1/2 gallon milk jugs
    8-10 inch piece of 1/2"(?)I.D. hose
    Transmission funnel
    ATF Dexron III fluid 8-12qts.
    Extra set of hands
    Wrench(17mm I think)

    First, jack up the front end and install jack stands(don't forget to pull the E-brake). Make sure the oil is warm, and remove the plug from the rear of the transmission pan, careful not to spill(comes out very quick), you'll want to measure the amount that comes out. Drain in to a large pan of some sort. When the flow has stopped, reinstall the plug(22-30ft-lbs). Now measure the amount of oil drained(I recommend using some half gallon milk jugs), install your transmission funnel, and add that much back in to the transmission through the dipstick tube.

    Now remove the line as shown in the pic, and let that drain in to a container(there shouldn't really be enough to measure). Now install the piece of short hose over the nipple coming out of the cooler, and run the open end in to a 1/2 gallon jug. Have a friend start the car, this will push the fluid through the cooler and out the hose in to the jug. When the jug is half full(or just before), turn the car off. You still get a little running out, but for the mostpart, flow should stop once the engine has. Now you can add 1 qt through the dipstick tube. Then again, start the engine, and measure out another qt, turn the engine off, and add 1 qt. Repeat this cycle, until you have good clean fluid showing up in the jugs.

    Our transmission holds 7.8qts. I had good clean fluid by the time I had added 8qts. You should be able to tell fairly easily.

    Once you feel that you have good clean fluid(you can flush an extra couple of qts if you want, just to be sure), reinstall the cooler line, let the car back down and run the engine for a while. Now follow the recommended procedure for checking the fluid level for your operating range, and add or remove as necessary(I had to remove about a pint, and just drained it through the cooler again).

    Best of luck, and be sure to search the internet for similar instructions. I also have a post earlier in this thread that deals with similar issues. :lemon:
  • johnr16johnr16 Posts: 14
    Hi kfpfla,
    Thanks for the information~ very helpful.. I didn't know much about this car when I bought it..Bought it in Nevada and drove it cross country to Ohio where I now live.I really like this car although not the smoothest or most powerful .. It has been well taken care of..I hope to get a couple of hundred K out of it..The tranny does scare me though..Right now I don't have any facilities so I'm going to keep pulling the drain plug and changing 3.5 qts at a time every 500 to 600 miles...Mobil 1 synthetic .. 2 or three times and then I'm going to put a pint of pro- long in it..Had good luck with this stuff..Thanks again...!!
  • johnr16johnr16 Posts: 14
    Hi kfpfla,
    Went shopping today for the mobil 1 , hard to find.. I only found one store that had it. Didn't buy it because it said multi-vehicle formula..Not sure if there are other formulas or not..Checked the Mobil website, but didn't find much info..Can I use this?
    P.S Pricey... 9 bucks a quart at auto zone..Oh well it will be worth it to keep my trans. alive.
  • I have a 2001 Mazda 626 that has been running fine, the car cranked right up but the shifter was not engaging. I could go from P to 1 like it was air. I had a friend manually put it in reverse, then drive so I could get home. Its at the shop now and the mechanic says it is the plastic peice in the shifter part that is stripped. The problem is, it looks like a 10 cent part, but the Mazda dealership wants 175 for the whole shift cable. Is there an easier fix to this?
  • ggvggv Posts: 1
    I have one that won't go above 30 MPH. I'm guessing that the veins or valves are clogged? I don't know much about transmissions but I saw where a member (kfpfla) said do not flush it or remove the pan. I just don’t see how I can get it unclogged with out doing either. Any ideas or suggestions? I can’t afford to have it rebuilt. Thanks
  • kfpflakfpfla Posts: 5
    Hello ggv,

    As I said before, I would avoid "power flushing" the tranny, as that can make make the situation worse (As the type of service that say Jiffy Lube might sell). The are willing to sell you anything, but beware that they have you sign a release that they will not be held responsible for any damage.

    I would recommend doing a manual flush. This is a lot easier on your tranny.

    Search the internet for "How do I change the fluid in my CD4E?" for more details on doing a "MANUAL" flush of the tranny. It must be a Manual Flush to reduce stirring up the sludge and clogging the fillter (which is a simple screen).

    It may or may not solve your problem. If you do this a few quarts at a time, the fresh tranny fluid will flush out some of the sludge, which may result in the tranny shifting better.

    I would recommend doing a little extra research why the car will not go above 30, be it a clog or a stuck valve.

    Good luck.

    PS. If you are running the standard tranny fluid, you will find it is a lot cheaper to clean it with the original fluid, and once the tranny starts working properly, switch to a synsethtic fluid.
  • johnr16johnr16 Posts: 14
    Hello ggv,
    kfpla is correct, but I would add that I think your tranny has had it . It may come back to life again..Here is what I would 4 quarts of Mobil 1 synthentic fluid..There is no pan on this tranny but there is a drain plug.Warm it up ,pull the plug and drain the fld. Put 3 and a half quarts in and run it for a while. If it improves at all do it again after you get 100 or so miles on it.This is pricey,Mobil 1 synthetic is about 9 bucks a quart..but it's a lot cheaper than a rebuild..In my opinion these cars aren't worth putting a new tranny in..Poor mileage and underpowered..I have been pretty lucky with mine..I drove it cross country last fall from the west coast to eastern ohio with the check engine light on and the O D light flashing all the way..I started to have some problems so I went with the Mobil 1 ...changed a total of 3 times.. now it seems to be performing pretty well, I'm not putting any more money into it.. going to get rid of it as soon as possible..
    Good luck..
  • johnr16johnr16 Posts: 14
    I'm wondering what to expect with the timing belt on my 99 2 liter 626..I bought the car used with 92 K on it ..the car has been very well taken care of.and I'm assuming that the timing belt has been changed..I am the second owner..Got a carfax on it but can't find any service records..just now turning 100 K ..the manuel recommends changing at 60 K..I hate to take it to a dealer and spend 500 bucks if I don't need to..Anyone have any answers about how long these belts are actually good for..?? Thanks
  • connelly1132connelly1132 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    i just put in a transmission rebuilt kit ran fine for two weeks now i dont have any drive gears but all other gears engine light came on and o/d light is blinking sometimes i have first and when i have drive i cn only go 2-5 miles an hr. then stops working please give me any tips couple people told me to buy a new transmission and some told me its something electrical
  • johnr16johnr16 Posts: 14
    Hi Connelly 1132
    As you know if you have been reading these forums there are some really serious issues relating to these transmissions..Personally I think ford should be held responsible for this piece of junk. But unfortunately that is not the case..I think you may have introduced some dirt into the tranny...They are not filtered..See if you can get it warmed up ... pull the drain plug and put in 3 and one half quarts of Mercon 3 fld..Don't waste your money on Mobil 1 synthetic fld. until you see if it's going to work or not..use Valvoline max life or similar..If you get any improvement at all change it again..and again..3 and one half quarts at a time..If it comes back---Doubtful--- !!! go with a a tranny fld cooler and mobil1 synthetic fld.
    Hope this helps.. good luck :sick:
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