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Pontiac Grand Prix Starting / Stalling Issues

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  • Does the engine have a camshaft sensor? Maybe it's bad or the parts guy gave you a cam sensor instead of a crank sensor. Some manufacturers use almost the same sensor, just values are different. If it was a bad ECM don't you think GM would have a Update for your problem.
  • Was the steering column replaced or dropped down for another type of repair?
    Or was the steering wheel removed/reinstalled for a repair? Where I'm leading to is perhaps if the upper & lower steering column covers were removed possibly on reinstallation one of the 2 mounting screws pierced the anti-theft wires and at times causes the control module to think the car is being tampered with going into failsafe mode and stalls cause the system either doesn't read the resistor on the ignition key or it shuts down the fuel pump. With road vibrations it could be just the right bump or movement of the steering wheel to surface your ghost problem. Good luck! :shades:
  • Has a shop run a test on the fuel injectors? If the problem is a failing injector with the kind of mileage consider replacing all of them. It's gonna be pricey but if your keeping the car it's the way to go. :shades:
  • Behind the factory radio there's a black box the size of a pack of cigarettes. That is your daytime running light module. The mother board of the module is partially fried by someone who tried replacing a bulb somewhere with the wrong type and shorted out the module. :shades:
  • smv1smv1 Posts: 14
    thie engine does have a camshaft sensor and a crankshaft sensor.
  • Hey im having the most problems out my car since i paid for it. Well about 3 weeks ago my car started shaking so bad and my exhausted pipe was putting out a horrible smell. I took to the Amoco the man put it on the machine and he said it said that it was my Chore. So my car have three and he checked all three and my first one wasn't giving no fire. So I had it changed but about 2 days later it started doing the same crap over again I took it back and the same Chore had went back out. So it got replace again, now I was taking my little boys to the bus stop and it started shaking again but this time it went dead and when I finally got it started back up it barely would go. Please help me!!!!!!
  • Mine issue ended up being the MAP sensor. Haven't had an issue since this was replaced!
  • If you have a good diagnostic GM mechaninc tell him to run a fuel injector balance test with a noide light. He may find a bad injector. If so consider replacing all of them. It may be costly but if you have a good car its worth the investment.
  • I had this same problem with my 2003 grand prix gtp - the crank sensor was failing. After replacing that sensor everything works fine.
  • I made the original post for this thread about my 2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP that dies mysteriously. Posted Jun 08, 2008 (11:11 am)

    What fixed my stalling issue was having the crank sensor replaced.
  • You may have your issue resolved by now but if you haven't, here is some info. As you can see multiple folks have different suggestions. I have had both MAP (mass air sensor) and the crankshaft positioning issues. When MAP fails, car chokes a little when you are accelerating, the engine may or may not stop, also your RPM will fluctuate when you are idling occasionally the engine killing. You get a MAP code. The crankshaft sensor figures out the firing order of the cylinders, when it fails, the engine stops at any speed, you could be on the highway doing 70. Fortunately, after you pullover, and put the car in park, it will almost always start. More than likely there won't be a code thrown that's why crankshaft sensor problems are tricky. If you have a failed fuel injector, the car will run rough almost always but it shouldn't stall especially with a 6 cylinder engine.
  • prixdicprixdic Posts: 1
    The dic is blank checked fuse its good only thing that lights up is low trac, trac off also my gas guage is giving false readings ie; empty when tank is full
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hello all,

    I am having what appears to be much of the same problem as many of you are having and I need help. My 2004 Grand Prix GTP has around 73000 miles. Back in november my car wouldnt start. It would crank but didnt fire. My mechanic replaced the fuel pump and the car ran fine up until a week ago. I had my car running idle for about 15 mins with my wife in it, when i came back to the car she told me it started to run rough and a light came on. She turned the car off and couldnt remember what light she saw. A week later as I was driving home locally my car cut off, my traction control warnings came on saying service, I was able to get it to restart only for it to cut off again a short time later with the same results. My mechanic said the fuel pressure was low so they again replaced the pump. Got the car back and it ran fine for 3 days and again driving locally it died again with the same indicators lighting up and wouldnt restart. To make note, I dont even hear the pump hum when the key is turned on. Please tell me my pump has gone out again. Its barely 3 days old. I dont know if it could be the crank and cam sensors or the ignition module or if there is something else going on. Any ideas and advice would be appreciated.
  • Get the crank sensor replaced....

    That is what is causing your car to die....
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hi fastredgtp,

    Thank you for your quick response. I appreciate that. I kinda thought so because I had this same problem with a 99 chrysler 300m but after reading many other posts on here I just want to be sure. Have you had this problem too? If so did this rectify it and did you replace it yourself or take it to a shop?
  • 2000 Grand Prix GT 3.8 non-supercharged engine was randomly stalling when at operating temperature, at any speed, at any rpm, or idling. Ran well when it ran, but RPMs would randomly drop to zero and the engine would stall. Worsening occaisional no-start condition with no spark. All power in the vehicle remained on. Sometimes would start right back up and other times would not start for 3-30 mins.
    No check engine light and so no codes to pull. No traction light issues which sometimes occur when the crankshaft position sensor is failing. I didn't want to change the crankshaft position sensor because, quite frankly, it sucks. Changed the ignition control module. No change. Changed plugs and wires with no change. Finally decided to change the CPS. After much research and finding conflicting information I compiled a procedure with just the truthful parts I found and it worked beautifully and the car runs perfectly now. The CPS on these cars fail. If you have decided to change yours out it is a $35 part and is DIY with the proper information, which follows, some ingenuity, and some mechanical apptitude:
    Jack and secure car. Remove passenger side tire and the plastic wheel well. The clips will probably break, so buy new ones at a hardware store later. Number and remove spark plug wires from the ignition control module so the car won't start. Remove the center bolt (15/16th inch head) from the harmonic balancer. Easiest way to do this without a doubt is to postion a flat wrench on the bolt, rest the boxed end of the wrench on the car frame in front of the harmonic balancer, and tap the starter. Remember to disable the car from starting. Bolt will break loose. To pull off the harmonic balancer use a standard harmonic balancer puller, but you will need special grade 8 bolts and washers. 1/4-28 bolts, 3" long, one inch of thread is o.k. Place a short 3/8" extension in the crank bolt hole to protect the threads. Carefully, by hand, thread the specialty bolts through the puller and into the 3 holes on the balancer that seemingly have no threads. The threads are farther in and not visible. Make sure the bolts are straight, and inserted to an even depth into the harmonic balancer. Use washers or the bolt heads will gouge and pull through the puller. I turned my specialty bolts 15 quarter turns into the harmonic balancer. Turn the puller's main bolt that it is pushing on the 3/8"extension you placed in the crank bolt's hole. Balancer came right out/off. Remove crankshaft position sensor shield. Mine was plastic. Spread the teeth that connect the shield to its bolts with a small standard screwdriver and pull/pry just a bit. No reason to remove the shield from the bolt farthest towards the rear of the car. You'll be using thread glue on the main bolt when you put in in so you can use some of that on the shield where it connects if you mess up the plastic teeth on the shield a bit. Remove the old sensor's two bolts, and save the part to torture in fire later. Bolt in new sensor, replace shield. Line up the harmonic balancer with its cotter key deal and start pulling the balancer back on with a torque wrench. To keep the engine from turning open the smalll access hole to the flywheel on the bottom of the car (two bolts). Place vicegrips on the flywheel or wedge something in the teeth. Tighten your glued main bolt to 112 lbs plus 76 degrees. You now have a car you can count on and need not worry about it dying while driving down the road. I love mine now. Just wish someone would have made these all inclusive and accurate directions for me.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hello all,

    well I figured out what my problem was with my car starting and stalling out. It was one of the connectors to my fuel pump. The connector with the four plug connection, a couple of the wires were loose. I simply went to a pull a part yard, found another connector just like it, spliced the wires and crimped em together and tadaa...it fired right up like a champ and has been running smooth and good as new all day. So anyone else that may be having this problem, check the connector to your fuel pump as well. You can let down your rear seat, lift the trunk liner and you'll see the cover with 6 screws, this is where your pump is and is easily acccessible. Hope this helps.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,830
    An automotive organization would like to speak with used car buyers who bought cars that they later found out were not up to date on recall repairs. If you are willing to discuss your experience, please email PR@edmunds.com no later than 10 a.m. Pacific /1 p.m. Eastern Friday, April 20, 2012 with your daytime contact information.

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  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    well I figured out what my problem was with my car starting and stalling out. It was one of the connectors to my fuel pump. The connector with the four plug connection, a couple of the wires were loose. I simply went to a pull a part yard, found another connector just like it, spliced the wires and crimped em together and tadaa...it fired right up like a champ and has been running smooth and good as new all day. So anyone else that may be having this problem, check the connector to your fuel pump as well. You can let down your rear seat, lift the trunk liner and you'll see the cover with 6 screws, this is where your pump is and is easily acccessible. Hope this helps.
  • shar0513shar0513 Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Grand Prix that started making this lovely noise while I was on the freeway, the check eniine light came on, and it wouldn't get above 45, seemed to not be getting any power. I had a mobile mechanic look at it and he hooked his computer up to it. He says it's cyhlinder #2, and after a compression test, he says it's a 30 psi. Anyone else have this problem or have any thoughts? I have been told I am looking at $1500 in repairs.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Oh wow. Sorry to hear that. Hmmm...I would say try to get a 2nd opinion just in case. If I may ask what kind of sound was it making? If it is the # 2 cylinder, this can be a very expensive job as they will need to get into the internal part of the engine. Here's hoping it may be something else less expensive and worrysome.
  • darlajdarlaj Posts: 2
    I have a 2007 Pontiac Grand Prix with 49,000 miles. At first the car would just die while driving, like someone unplugged or cut off the engine, no codes, no warnings, nothing. After the car would sit for two or three days it would start, run fine for a week or two and do the same thing. Took the car in several times to a GM mechanic, at first they could not duplicate the problem but when it finally happened to them they first replaced the ignition module, same thing happened again, then the crank sensor module, shaft whatever it's called was replaced, same thing happened again. Now the car won't start at all and "computer system failure" is popping up......can anyone tell me whats wrong?
  • ls14everls14ever Posts: 6
    First things first. If there's a no start condition but the engine is trying to start. First a good diagnostic mechanic would inspect for ignition spark and fuel delivery. If one of the two is not functioning correctly that's why there's a no start. If there's no spark I would check the ignition coils. If there's no fuel I would check the fuel pump. Does your car have a alarm system? That could also cause the no start. Without no check engine light or codes the mechanic has to go to the basics. A lot of young mechanics with out trouble codes to direct them to the problem are lost. Those kind of mechanics will start installing parts guessing if that's the problem. No diagnostics or confirmation of failed part as you already experienced by a so called GM mechanic. Don't forget if you get that call you need this part your first question is how did you diagnosis the problem. Write down what he said he did to confirm a failed part and get back to me.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    darlaj,
    I'm sorry to see that your dealership is perhaps having a bit of difficulty in locating the root of the concern. If we can follow up with them, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com with more information (include your name/Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, the name of your dealership and appointment details on visits pertaining to the no-start concern).
    Regards,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • prochieprochie Posts: 11
    STAY AWAY from the dealerships they will fleece you for parts and not resolve the issue.

    Check the ground cable near the battery. Typically, there is build up on the copper eye that is bolted to the frame. Remove the cable from the frame, sand it down to remove the build-up, bolt it back onto the frame, and paint with rust proof paint. There is another ground cable attached to the engine but I routinely just check the one by the battery. If you want a pic, I can send those. Try this before replacing sensors, etc.

    The throttle body also gets significant build-up but this wouldn't keep you from starting - just rough idle. Your issue sound more electrical / ground related.

    My 2005 Grand Prix had the same issue. SIX GM dealerships couldn't tell me why my vehicle would go dead flying down the highway with no gas, pwoer steering, or instrumentation. My initial dealership was Roy Foss in Woodbridge - what a bunch dishonest crooks. I hope they lost their dealership in the cuts. I would buy another GM Vehicle but for my experience with these dealerships. Buy FORD next time they appear to know what they are doing.
  • darlajdarlaj Posts: 2
    thanks Poochie, I will try it and see what happens. To Sarah, thanks but My issue goes a lot beyond what I would like to discuss on this forum, I'm out a lot of money and have a vehicle I can't drive. I will just leave it at that, I'm just looking for some answers for my own benefit.
  • we repaired the ..o2 sencer,,,check eng light went off,,,but D.M.V. says codes read "not ready yet" do you have to drive the car 50 miles before the codes clear?
  • nicole586nicole586 Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    i have a 99 grand prix gt. it was running great. then i went outside to leave and it wouldnt start. it turns over and everything just wont stay on. when you first try to start it after it has been sitting it will stay on for about 5 mins then it chokes out. after it broke we changed the spark plugs and wires, we also changed the mass air flow sensor. after we changed the sensor the car did one good drive then it did the exact same thing. the car will sometimes stay on if you keep the rpms over 2k. can anyone please help me so i dont have to take it in. :sick: any questions you have to ask ill answer to the best of my abilities. i just wanna try to fix it. i also just read that when your crank sensor goes your trac light turns on. i would like to know if that is true. cause mine has been on for a week and i cant turn it off :surprise:
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    I had a 99 chrysler 300m that did the same thing, it turned out to be the crank and cam sensor. I would suggest you take it to your mechanic and have them retrieve any trouble codes. At least this way they can tell you exactly what the issue is and what it will cost to fix it. It sounds like the same issue to me. Hope this helps.
  • begglestonbeggleston Posts: 1
    edited July 2012
    sometimes it wont start and sometimes it does...when it does start it runs great...but when it don;t start i have to turn the key over til the radio and lights works...wait until the secruity light goes out...then i turn it off and pull the key out and put it back in and the car starts...can anyone help me with this?

    thanks Bill
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