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Pontiac Grand Prix Starting / Stalling Issues

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  • prettybprettyb Posts: 2
    am begin to think i brought a lemon or a car 2005 grand prix drive good and look good but some time get in car and it start right up and sometimes i get in i have to start it 2 or three times only had the car 2 weeks and i do have 3 year warranty i already took it to two place they send me to! and each time the car start good! So they dont seem think nothing wrong with the car! But am not crazy this car has starting problem! but it not all time but it enough!
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Sounds like it could be crank and cam shaft sensor. Some times it will allow the car to start with no problem and then sometimes it wont. Have your car hooked up to run a diagnostice just to be sure its not the starter, alternator or something else. But I would definately start there.
  • prettybprettyb Posts: 2
    ty you morgan im going check into this! Next week im going take it back to shop But i hope it not going cost alot to get fixed! I already got one car im getting work done!
  • I used to have a 99 Grand Prix. It would stall randomly and then start right up. It took the dealer a long time to figure out because they couldn't make the problem to reoccur. They replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor and the problem got fixed. At the time the car had 125000 miles on it. It is a $35 part but there is some labor involved. I don't know if this is your problem for sure but it could very well be.
  • gmcustsvcsarahgmcustsvcsarah Posts: 1,964
    Hope you were able to get to the bottom of these issues since your last post! Let us know if you would like for us to look into anything.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Your welcome. Hope it all works out. Usually to replace the sensors may cost around $260.00, thats including parts and labor.
  • I have a 1988 Grand Prix with the 2.8 liter. It will run perfectly, and always starts fine in after it has sat for a few hours. The problem is after it runs awhile and I park it it will start right away in the first few minutes, but after it sits for a half hour or so it will not start again for a couple hours.

    I had the module and coils tested, they are fine, and my mechanic changed the crank sensor yesterday, still same problem.

    As I saod, it will turn over fine, and if I pump it I can smell gas, it just won't start. What else can I check before I turn a mechanic loose on a problem like this?

    Also, as I said, no other problems, no codes or lights, no stalling, I think I could drive 1000 miles with no problem as long as I leave it on.
  • just an update..........changed the ignition module, still same problem....what's left? It will restart fine a few minutes after I park it, but it seems like something heats up while it sits and won't let it start after 20 minutes to a half hour.
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hmmm,

    Furnaceman, to be honest with you I dont know what else it could be. I dont think its the starter or alternator. I would suggest taking it to either your mechanic or another one for a 2nd opinion. Also, try using Google and type in the search "starting issues with 1988 pontiac" and research some of the links it provides. You may find an answer there as well.

    Wish I could've been more help. If I should hear anything I'll be sure to share.
  • No, it doens't have any problems charging or turning over, it will crank as long as I want when it won't start, it just doesn't actually start.

    Thanks for the Google idea, I suspect I will be finding another mechanic for actually a 3rd opinion.
  • Have you tried engine cleaners to clean carbon deposits and sludge in the engine? In an engine that old you are likely to have a lot of it.
  • Not entirely sure how I can have a carbon deposit that can cause a problem sometimes? Also it only has 62,000 miles on it. Also not sure how this can cause it to not start after it gets warm but cause it to start after it cools for a couple hours?
  • put new starter in car and it still won't start any suggestions
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hello Pdilcher,

    can you provide a few details on what happened? What did your car do before it had the problem or what signs did it give? What does it do when you turn the key to start it? A few things to check would be the alternator, check your fuse panel under the hood and in the cabin of the car. Also check your fuel rail to make sure you are getting gas. You can do this by locating a small nozzle that has a cap that you would turn to take off, then you should see a small pin, press that pin down to see if fuel comes out. Make sure you do this with the key in the on position so that the fuel pump is on. Start by checking these few items 1st.
  • MY son changed the starter the positive wire from battery to starter and cleaned the ground connection on the block and all its doing is clicking and when wetry to jump it, the crankshaft pulley moves a tiny bit then snaps back into same spot
  • My niece has a 2004 Grand Prix GTX. It will die intermittently. All electrical goes off and no codes. I am thinking it might be a bad circuit breaker and maybe an intermittent short. The circuit breaker might be tripping and then resets when it cools down enough.
  • gw76gw76 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Ponitac Grand Prix it keeps cutting off. I took it to the shop and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it, but clearly there is something wrong. It cuts off if I am driving it in traffic, it cuts off if I am sitting idle such as in a drive through, it often cuts off as soon as I start it and then I have to start up again. Sometimes when I am sitting idle it starts to cut off and then it seems to like catch itself and jerks back on. There are times when I start it that it literally jerks when it starts.....PLEASE any ideas why this is happening and what this might be? Please respond....
  • morgan71morgan71 Posts: 25
    Hello GW,

    Here are a few things to check before you take your car out again. Check your antifreeze levels and your temp gauge when you are driving to make sure your car isnt overheating. Also, when you turn your key into the on position without starting it, turn down your radio and have the door closed and leave the key in that position for a moment to see if you hear the hum of the fuel pump. You should hear it hum consistently. Also, when is the last time you had a tuneup performed? Lastly, I had a similar problem with mine and it turned out to be the connectors to my fuel pump were going bad. You can access your fuel pump thru your trunk bed I believe. I dont think Pontiac changed that considering I have an 04 GTP. Pull back the liner, you'll see a metal plate with about 8 screws, take off the nuts and lift off the plate. You'll see the connectors running to the pump. Turn your key to the on position without starting it, then kinda move the wires with your hand just a bit to see if the pump cuts off or continues to hum. Lastly, in some cases it could be a crank and or cam sensor. Try checking the other items 1st, hopefully this can help you use a process of elimination.

    Hope this helps.
  • I had the same problem with my 2003 grand prix gtp - the fix for my car was
    the crank sensor.

    Took research on my part to figure out the problem - no mechanic could figure it out..
  • I had a similar problem on my 1999 GP. The deale,r after several days of checking things out, replaced the crankshaft positioning sensor and the problem went away. The other thing you may keep in mind is the mass airflow sensor. The part is around $150, it is a 5 minute job. Mass air flow sensor throws a diagnostic code. The crankshaft sensor didn't.
    Good luck.
  • Did anyone ever figure out what the problem was? I have the same issue with my 2006 Grand Prix. It seems to just stop running when it gets too hot, and it's been a hot summer. It's been to the garage three times now. First battery and starter, and crank shaft sensor, then the second mechanic found a wire in the ignition that came apart when it was hot, but now a month later, the same issue, and the mechanic says it's something different but they can't figure it out.

    Everyone I talk to says it's electrical, but it sounds exactly the same as the problem you had. Can you let me know what finally solved this issue for your grand prix?

    Thanks Lisa.
  • Good morning lisa121,

    Is the garage you're working with one of our GM dealerships? Just asking to see if there's anything we can look into! Let us know if we can be of any assistance.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • sorry, I never have found out. It will start and run perfectly, start again if I try within 5-10 minutes of shutting off, otherwise I have to wait 2 to 2-1/2 hours for it to start again.

    Right now I just leave it running with a spare key if I make short trips.

    So far have changed ignition control and crank sensor, guess I have to save up money for the big diagnostic check that won't fix it anyway.

    Seems like something overheats in the cooling system and has to cool completely before it starts again. Hoping in this cold climate it will at least be an easier problem in the winter.

    Sorry......just hating this engine
  • No, I'm not dealing with the dealership. If I went to the dealership they'd charge me hourly, and there's no way I could afford it. My car is at Active Green and Ross right now, which have been very good at diagnosing in the past, but this time, there are no codes when they do a diagnostic, and sometimes it stalls, and starts, and sometimes it doesn't start. It seems to be bad when it's really hot out.

    It seems that there are a lot of Grand Prix cars, different years, that all have the same problem. If you can help, I'd like you to tell me what it could be, or what other people have found to be the problem, when this problem occurs.
  • ... is having this exact same issue. Must be a flaw in that model. I'm thinking my next car will be a Ford. But right now it's not starting for the 3 out of 7 times we tried in the past 24 hours. Sometimes it'll start and sometimes it won't. I've been told it could be the alternator, starter engine, battery issue, solenoid, radiator safeguard, etc. We took it to an auto parts store for diagnostic but no codes came up.
  • I have the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix. This is the list that I have changed Ignition Contol Module, Ignition Coils, Plug Wires, Spark Plugs. With the same result of when it gets to operating temperature it cuts off and will not start until the car is completely cool. Took the car to the GM dealer and they told it was the Crank Position Sensor and replaced that along with another Ignition Control Module and when they wnet to take the car back to the wash bay the car cutoff again on them. Now the car is still in the shop for the issue of the car cutting off and the car did not put any codes out. The Check Engine Light does not come on at all. I also contacte Pontiac Customer Service to make them aware of this issue. I talked to a lady named Cheer like the singer at 1-800-762-2737. This is a real safety issue with the Grand Prix. The lady took my information and where the car is at the GM delearship. She said she will have a regional techical representive that works with the dealer ships in the are you live in. When the service advisor called me and it was the Crank Position Sensor, I asked if he was 100% sure that was the problem. He said he was 150 % sure and they replaced the Crank Position Sensor and it cut off again before I even got the car back. I told him about what I was reading about this issue is that would not fix this issue and now they realize that what I was telling them is the truth and now they are still trying to figure out what the problem really is. I will keep everyone posted on the outcome. To all those with same issue I will suggest contacting Pontiac Customer services and let your voices and concerns heard and maybe something good will come out of it.
  • Your problem does not sound like the crankshaft positioning sensor problem, I don't know why the dealer thought so, the symptoms for that are different. Crankshaft sensor problem is not heat related, it has to do with the firing order of the cylinders and the car starts up when you restart whether it is cold or hot. I didn't see the mass air flow sensor on your list, did they look at that. The only thing is that usually throws a code, you don't have a code. I called GM when my GP was dying on he highway suddenly going 60 70 miles/hr, they did a nice job of dodging the issue even though it is a safety issue.
    Good luck.
  • Well here is the verdict on this issue. The aftermarket Ignition control (DURALAST) I put in the vehicle in place of the original Iginition control module because I thought it was the problem. When the Crank Position sensor shorted out when the car gets warm causes the car to cutoff. When the car is cold it will start up. When they replaced the Crank Position Senor and put the replacement aftermarket Ignition control which was the second one in a week. The aftermarket Ignition Control Module would get super hot and cause the car to cut off again. The dealership put the original GM Ignition Control Module in the car the car stayed running the drove it a 100 miles and the never cut off. When they finished their 100 mile test drive they took off the GM Ignition Control Module and it was cool not hot at all. So the original issue was the Crank Position Sensor not sending crank signal to Ignition Control Module. They replace the Crank Position Sensor and test drove to heat up car to Operating temp. What

    They retested with car in a hot condition and did a pin to pin test of Crank Position to Ignition Control had crank signal. Then pin to pin Ignition Control to Power Control Module had crank signal also pin to pin back to the Ignition Control from Powertrain Contol Module and had ignition signal for coils to fire.

    The Crank Position Sensor is behind the Harmonic Balancer in the engine block. When engine heats up the Crank Sesor is succeptible to the heat of engine and faults out and cause car to cut off.

    Pontiac Customer service was deeply involved finding the issue and root cause.
  • Check signals from Ignition Control module to the Powertrain Control Module ( there are four signals two for Crank Position Sensor and 2 for Cam Shaft Position Sensor) Pin to pin tests are need to resolve this issue not a scan diagnostic tool. If you have the four signals going into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) also reffered to as the Engine Control Module (ECM) the checking of the signals should be done when the car is in the state of cutting off when warm and not starting. If the four signals are not coming out of the Ignition Control Module (ICM) then check the two signals from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and Camshaft Position Sensor (CAMPS) going into the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The two sensors are located behind the crank shaft pulley Harmonic Balancer. If one of the signals are not coming into the ICM then you will not have a spark. If everything checks out as above then you would need to check the ignition control signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) back to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) this is the signal that tells the coils to fire on top of the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

    I had the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix and did all the pin to pin test to find out what the problem and root cause for me was the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) no signal from the CPS at all.

    I first took the advice from what was done by other posters from other websites and changed the ICM with a aftermarket ICM (DURALAST) and that caused more issues because it would contantly over heat and cause the car to cutoff. The duralast ICM for these cars are not up to OEM Specs even though they say it is OEM Specs.

    I replaced the CPS after the first Duralast ICM and put another duralast ICM on the car and car would cutoff and the duralast ICM would be super hot. Then I put back my origin GM ICM back in the car and have not had a problem with the car getting and cutting off.

    You would not get any codes for a CPS or ICM being bad all other parts ie. MAF, MAP, IAF, EGR, Fuel Pump, Injectors, and O2 sensors will throw out codes. The Crank Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor are the weak points in this Ignitions systems because of the nature and where they located in the engine block heat will cause these parts to fail in time and will cause car to cutoff when hot and not start again until cooled off. Fuel pumps will plain quit working and never start working again. You need fire and gas for a car to start. No gas pressure at fuel rail no start, No fire from Coils no start.
  • If the Computer System Failure is popping up the only it could be the the Powertrain Control Module or also called the Engine Control Module which is located in the Air Filter Housing.
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