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Pontiac Grand Prix Starting / Stalling Issues

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  • Did anyone ever figure out what the problem was? I have the same issue with my 2006 Grand Prix. It seems to just stop running when it gets too hot, and it's been a hot summer. It's been to the garage three times now. First battery and starter, and crank shaft sensor, then the second mechanic found a wire in the ignition that came apart when it was hot, but now a month later, the same issue, and the mechanic says it's something different but they can't figure it out.

    Everyone I talk to says it's electrical, but it sounds exactly the same as the problem you had. Can you let me know what finally solved this issue for your grand prix?

    Thanks Lisa.
  • Good morning lisa121,

    Is the garage you're working with one of our GM dealerships? Just asking to see if there's anything we can look into! Let us know if we can be of any assistance.

    Sarah, GM Customer Service
  • sorry, I never have found out. It will start and run perfectly, start again if I try within 5-10 minutes of shutting off, otherwise I have to wait 2 to 2-1/2 hours for it to start again.

    Right now I just leave it running with a spare key if I make short trips.

    So far have changed ignition control and crank sensor, guess I have to save up money for the big diagnostic check that won't fix it anyway.

    Seems like something overheats in the cooling system and has to cool completely before it starts again. Hoping in this cold climate it will at least be an easier problem in the winter.

    Sorry......just hating this engine
  • No, I'm not dealing with the dealership. If I went to the dealership they'd charge me hourly, and there's no way I could afford it. My car is at Active Green and Ross right now, which have been very good at diagnosing in the past, but this time, there are no codes when they do a diagnostic, and sometimes it stalls, and starts, and sometimes it doesn't start. It seems to be bad when it's really hot out.

    It seems that there are a lot of Grand Prix cars, different years, that all have the same problem. If you can help, I'd like you to tell me what it could be, or what other people have found to be the problem, when this problem occurs.
  • ... is having this exact same issue. Must be a flaw in that model. I'm thinking my next car will be a Ford. But right now it's not starting for the 3 out of 7 times we tried in the past 24 hours. Sometimes it'll start and sometimes it won't. I've been told it could be the alternator, starter engine, battery issue, solenoid, radiator safeguard, etc. We took it to an auto parts store for diagnostic but no codes came up.
  • I have the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix. This is the list that I have changed Ignition Contol Module, Ignition Coils, Plug Wires, Spark Plugs. With the same result of when it gets to operating temperature it cuts off and will not start until the car is completely cool. Took the car to the GM dealer and they told it was the Crank Position Sensor and replaced that along with another Ignition Control Module and when they wnet to take the car back to the wash bay the car cutoff again on them. Now the car is still in the shop for the issue of the car cutting off and the car did not put any codes out. The Check Engine Light does not come on at all. I also contacte Pontiac Customer Service to make them aware of this issue. I talked to a lady named Cheer like the singer at 1-800-762-2737. This is a real safety issue with the Grand Prix. The lady took my information and where the car is at the GM delearship. She said she will have a regional techical representive that works with the dealer ships in the are you live in. When the service advisor called me and it was the Crank Position Sensor, I asked if he was 100% sure that was the problem. He said he was 150 % sure and they replaced the Crank Position Sensor and it cut off again before I even got the car back. I told him about what I was reading about this issue is that would not fix this issue and now they realize that what I was telling them is the truth and now they are still trying to figure out what the problem really is. I will keep everyone posted on the outcome. To all those with same issue I will suggest contacting Pontiac Customer services and let your voices and concerns heard and maybe something good will come out of it.
  • Your problem does not sound like the crankshaft positioning sensor problem, I don't know why the dealer thought so, the symptoms for that are different. Crankshaft sensor problem is not heat related, it has to do with the firing order of the cylinders and the car starts up when you restart whether it is cold or hot. I didn't see the mass air flow sensor on your list, did they look at that. The only thing is that usually throws a code, you don't have a code. I called GM when my GP was dying on he highway suddenly going 60 70 miles/hr, they did a nice job of dodging the issue even though it is a safety issue.
    Good luck.
  • Well here is the verdict on this issue. The aftermarket Ignition control (DURALAST) I put in the vehicle in place of the original Iginition control module because I thought it was the problem. When the Crank Position sensor shorted out when the car gets warm causes the car to cutoff. When the car is cold it will start up. When they replaced the Crank Position Senor and put the replacement aftermarket Ignition control which was the second one in a week. The aftermarket Ignition Control Module would get super hot and cause the car to cut off again. The dealership put the original GM Ignition Control Module in the car the car stayed running the drove it a 100 miles and the never cut off. When they finished their 100 mile test drive they took off the GM Ignition Control Module and it was cool not hot at all. So the original issue was the Crank Position Sensor not sending crank signal to Ignition Control Module. They replace the Crank Position Sensor and test drove to heat up car to Operating temp. What

    They retested with car in a hot condition and did a pin to pin test of Crank Position to Ignition Control had crank signal. Then pin to pin Ignition Control to Power Control Module had crank signal also pin to pin back to the Ignition Control from Powertrain Contol Module and had ignition signal for coils to fire.

    The Crank Position Sensor is behind the Harmonic Balancer in the engine block. When engine heats up the Crank Sesor is succeptible to the heat of engine and faults out and cause car to cut off.

    Pontiac Customer service was deeply involved finding the issue and root cause.
  • Check signals from Ignition Control module to the Powertrain Control Module ( there are four signals two for Crank Position Sensor and 2 for Cam Shaft Position Sensor) Pin to pin tests are need to resolve this issue not a scan diagnostic tool. If you have the four signals going into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) also reffered to as the Engine Control Module (ECM) the checking of the signals should be done when the car is in the state of cutting off when warm and not starting. If the four signals are not coming out of the Ignition Control Module (ICM) then check the two signals from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and Camshaft Position Sensor (CAMPS) going into the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The two sensors are located behind the crank shaft pulley Harmonic Balancer. If one of the signals are not coming into the ICM then you will not have a spark. If everything checks out as above then you would need to check the ignition control signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) back to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) this is the signal that tells the coils to fire on top of the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

    I had the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix and did all the pin to pin test to find out what the problem and root cause for me was the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) no signal from the CPS at all.

    I first took the advice from what was done by other posters from other websites and changed the ICM with a aftermarket ICM (DURALAST) and that caused more issues because it would contantly over heat and cause the car to cutoff. The duralast ICM for these cars are not up to OEM Specs even though they say it is OEM Specs.

    I replaced the CPS after the first Duralast ICM and put another duralast ICM on the car and car would cutoff and the duralast ICM would be super hot. Then I put back my origin GM ICM back in the car and have not had a problem with the car getting and cutting off.

    You would not get any codes for a CPS or ICM being bad all other parts ie. MAF, MAP, IAF, EGR, Fuel Pump, Injectors, and O2 sensors will throw out codes. The Crank Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor are the weak points in this Ignitions systems because of the nature and where they located in the engine block heat will cause these parts to fail in time and will cause car to cutoff when hot and not start again until cooled off. Fuel pumps will plain quit working and never start working again. You need fire and gas for a car to start. No gas pressure at fuel rail no start, No fire from Coils no start.
  • If the Computer System Failure is popping up the only it could be the the Powertrain Control Module or also called the Engine Control Module which is located in the Air Filter Housing.
  • Check signals from Ignition Control module to the Powertrain Control Module ( there are four signals two for Crank Position Sensor and 2 for Cam Shaft Position Sensor) Pin to pin tests are need to resolve this issue not a scan diagnostic tool. If you have the four signals going into the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) also reffered to as the Engine Control Module (ECM) the checking of the signals should be done when the car is in the state of cutting off when warm and not starting. If the four signals are not coming out of the Ignition Control Module (ICM) then check the two signals from the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) and Camshaft Position Sensor (CAMPS) going into the Ignition Control Module (ICM). The two sensors are located behind the crank shaft pulley Harmonic Balancer. If one of the signals are not coming into the ICM then you will not have a spark. If everything checks out as above then you would need to check the ignition control signal from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) back to the Ignition Control Module (ICM) this is the signal that tells the coils to fire on top of the Ignition Control Module (ICM).

    I had the same issue with my 2007 Grand Prix and did all the pin to pin test to find out what the problem and root cause for me was the Crank Position Sensor (CPS) no signal from the CPS at all.

    I first took the advice from what was done by other posters from other websites and changed the ICM with a aftermarket ICM (DURALAST) and that caused more issues because it would contantly over heat and cause the car to cutoff. The duralast ICM for these cars are not up to OEM Specs even though they say it is OEM Specs.

    I replaced the CPS after the first Duralast ICM and put another duralast ICM on the car and car would cutoff and the duralast ICM would be super hot. Then I put back my origin GM ICM back in the car and have not had a problem with the car getting and cutting off.

    You would not get any codes for a CPS or ICM being bad all other parts ie. MAF, MAP, IAF, EGR, Fuel Pump, Injectors, and O2 sensors will throw out codes. The Crank Position Sensor and Camshaft Position Sensor are the weak points in this Ignitions systems because of the nature and where they located in the engine block heat will cause these parts to fail in time and will cause car to cutoff when hot and not start again until cooled off. Fuel pumps will plain quit working and never start working again. You need fire and gas for a car to start. No gas pressure at fuel rail no start, No fire from Coils no start.
  • My 06 Grand Prix doesnt wanna start in the cold this year. I have checked the battery while it is running, and the battery is right around 14 volts. I have had an issue with one of the modules that controlled the headlights burning out, and having to be replaced. On the first attempt, I am not hearing anything out of the starter, but on the second try it clicks and starts up on me. When the car starts though, the date and time have all been reset. Any ideas on what this issue might be?
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,001
    kashell,

    Let us know if you were going to get this checked into at the dealership. We certainly understand if you were looking into different options as you're outside of warranties at this point, but just wanted to offer to follow up on any dealer visits you may make.

    All the best,
    Sarah
    GM Customer Service
  • Hi all,

    Ok, I have been working on this for a few weeks with no solution. I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT that is having starting issues that are getting worse. It takes several attempts and needs me to give her a lot of gas to get her to start. Once started, if she doesn't stall in the first 5-10 seconds, I am good to go...runs like a champ. Battery is new, starter new, alternator new, new intake gaskets (upper and lower), new upper manifold, new coolant tubes, and new valve cover gaskets. The problem started before all these new items were put in. I am guessing it is a sensor (MAP/MIP) or another one but they are way to expensive to "guess". A fuel issue? Any help you could give would be much appreciated.
  • Hi cosully777,
    Looks like you have done extensive work done but you don't mention anything about the spark plugs. That is usually a good place to start because it is cheap and easy and the sparks will tell if you have any issues with any cylinder or with the spark plug wires.

    Your problem sounds like an old carburator choke problem, you sure they didn't slip in a carburator when all the work was done :-) Mass Air flow can be another suspect but it gives a code, are you getting any codes. Mass Airflow costs $130 - 180 non GM, (I got 2 re-manufactured ones, they both failed ended up getting a new one for a $30 more), it is a 5 minute job to replace it.
  • Thanks for replying so quickly. No, I have a code reader and it is not throwing any codes The "check engine" light came on once last week for about 10min and went off...no codes. I was debating about the spark plugs but I didn't know that if the spark plugs are bad the car can still start.

    So let's say it is a "carburator choke problem" what am I looking at to solve the issue? If you can't tell I am an amatuer home mechanic. I enjoy working on the car but this pontiac is one thing after another. Thanks for all the help!
  • did you get this resolved? I have a 2004 grand prix gt2 that is doing the exact same thing! Never know if I go to get in my car if it will give me problems starting. Sometimes it starts right up, other times I have to give it a few trys. I dont want to spend money guessing what it is and put money into the car that isnt needed. Help please!?!
  • NO, NOT YET!! It is getting very annoying. I checked the output on the battery and alternator again today and they are fine. It is below zero with the windchill here but it just started without a problem...that only happens once in a great while. I have no clue what to do...I think I am going to replace the spark plugs and O2 sensors and see what, if anything, that does. Let me know if you figure anything out.
  • damionsrdamionsr Posts: 2
    edited February 2013
    I have a 2003 Grand Prix GTP supercharged with 95xxx. The car was running great and all of a sudden I'm sitting at a light and the car shuts off and sets a check engine light. I go to restart and it and it wont restart without giving it some gas. Once it started it the idle fluctuated between 200 and 1000 rpm's. It set code P102. I noticed while the car running at idle i unplugged the IAT and the car ran better. When I plugged it back up it started running weird again. I replaced this sensor and drove the car around about an hour, ran beautiful. All of a sudden, I'm at a light and it cuts off again. Now I have to drive with two feet to keep it running because when I stop it just dies out. IT hasnt set any different codes, same code P102. When it acts like this it wont start unless i give it gas. If i just turn the ignition without giving it gas it doesnt start. After a few times of this it just turns over. If I let it sit for 2 minutes it starts up and runs fine, and then it will just shut down. Am I dealing with a MAF sensor issue or something else. I also didnt notice any vacuums hoses. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • The first thing I would look at is the Mass Air Flow sensor. I replaced mine twice, you should be able to look up the code. P102 points to MAF. Make sure you get a good one, doesn't have to be GM but watch out for the remanufactured ones. First I got a remanufactured MAF within 2 weeks it started acting up, then I took it back and got a new one and it was fine after that. It takes 5 minutes to replace it, it is on top of the engine.

    Good luck.
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