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Chevy Tahoe Transmission Problems



  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    What makes it so impossible (or doubtful) that that was the case?

    I was suggesting no such thing. I merely conveyed that I had a somewhat similar experience.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • rachaelwrachaelw Posts: 4
    Thanks, we have a house at the beach and I was concerned about the reliability of my Tahoe this summer. I am glad to hear that replacing the sprag is a solution!
  • rachaelwrachaelw Posts: 4
    Sorry, I must have misunderstood your reply, I was very frustrated at that time! It is tough when you buy a brand new vehicle and have problems with it!
  • musgrllvrmusgrllvr Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 chevy tahoe limited and i have a hard time putting it in gear. (taking it out of park) On my other chevy trucks i step on the brake and shift but this truck is tough. I have to barely step on the brake to get it out. If i step on it a little too mush it wont come out of park. Also, my brake lights are delayed, they dont turn on right away when i step on the brake. Its almost as if they turn on whenever they want. NEED ADVICE
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    sounds like your brake switch is failing. which is also the shift interlock i would suggest replacing the brake switch on the pedal and see if it doesnt resolve your problem
  • musgrllvrmusgrllvr Posts: 2
    is that something i can do on my own or do i need to take it to a shop?
  • fordfan_17fordfan_17 Posts: 175
    oh you should be able to do it yourself its right on the brake pedal under the dash...but do yourself a favor and spend a couple extra bucks and specify oem replacement if you cant get it at autoparts store go to the dealership for it.shouldn't take more than about 15-20 minutes
  • My tahoe seems to be stalling every time it shifts down out of overdrive, then I coast to the side of the road restart it and it runs like normal until it tries to shift down out of overdrive. Three codes came up on my cofe reader, they were p0300 multiple engine misfires and p0151 and p0131 bank 1 and 2 O2 senser low voltage. Does anyone have any insight on why this might only be happening immediately after shifting out of overdrive?
  • walt2364walt2364 Posts: 1
    Just took my 07 Tahoe into the dealer to have the transmission rebuilt for the second time. First transmission died at 29K. Latest transmission died at 45K. Service dept told me that it would be seven days before they could begin repairs and that no loaner would be available until they started the work. After a call to the service manager, they found a Cobalt for me to drive. It feels great to be driving a $12K compact car while making payments on a $45K SUV. This is easily my last American car.
  • candykcandyk Posts: 2
    I am new at posting too. My LTZ had less then 400 miles on it about 1 week after purchasing my tahoe the trans went out, We called the dealer they had it towed and put a new trans in. Then two weeks ago with 22000 miles the trans went out again this time they fixed it but did not give us a new one. I think we should try to file for the lemon law, it looks like that is what we have :lemon: The first trans was put in by a dealer in Ontario Ca. The second Victorville Ca. :sick:
  • gsimilagsimila Posts: 1
    My 2007 Tahoe (12K miles) just went out yesterday as I entered the freeway. As I accelerated, the rpms went up and a loud clunk happened. Then only grinding as I pulled over to the side.
    What should I demand at the service center on Monday?
  • rockman59rockman59 Posts: 250
    What should I demand at the service center on Monday?
    You can demand anything you want...but since the vehicle is still under warranty the dealer will do what GM tells them to do...and that is they will try to repair it first if that can be done. Second option is they will put in a new tranny. Just be glad it failed under warranty.
  • I have a 2007 Chevy LT Tahoe and have never had a problem with my transmission and I have 41,000 miles on it. I am however having proiblems with the fans that are supposed to cool the truck running super loud. The dealer states they all do that. I told them bull I have driven 41,000 miles and it hasn't done it now all of a suddden it dies. I called gm corp, they weren't very helpful, but I have my ticket escalated. Told them we have owned 9 of chevy's vehichles and have never had a problem. Told them I want resolution or they will hear from my attorney next
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Oh that'll get them shaking in their boots.

    What died, the fans? Those are easy to replace.
  • I really don' think they care. The fans did not die, they are just very loud. The service rep tried to tell me that is normal. I told her to get pumped. Been driving my truck for 41000 miles and it has never sounded like this, so is normal at a certain mileage the fans get loud and you say thats normal?

    It is in right now because it ataerted over heating even thoguh it is normal for the fans to be loud...then the service person told me I needed a flush on my ac that will cost 149.00. I said wow why do I need that, she said your suppose to have it done every 30000 miles read my manual. I told her to be a better sales rep and she is suppose to be my advisor and should have advised me 3 weeks ago this should hyave been done along with a transmission flush..

    ARGH I am irate
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The fans would not get loud with age.

    Hard to say without hearing them, you could have a number of different problems.
    - you could have a bearing on a fan going bad, making the noise
    - you could have a fan blade broke, causing an imbalance/vibration/or noise.
    - you could have a bearing going bad, fan slowing down and not cooling, causing you to overheat
    - you could be overheating (leaked out fluid, bad water pump, etc), which is causing the fans to come on more than normal, and you are just hearing the fans running when they would not normally be on.

    I never heard of a maintenance flush on AC....guess I need to read my manual! You'd have to flush an AC if you had a compressor go bad and had the possibility of metal filings in the line. It's freon and a little bit of oil in the AC, not sure why they would be flushing it.

    Are you sure they didn't say they were going to flush your radiator and coolant, instead of the AC? That would make more sense, particularly with an overheating situation.
  • tahbowtahbow Posts: 1
    Hello lilsuthern I was wondering if you have the Part #'s or link for the parts you needed to do the rebuild and replace the sensor..I thought I found a tsb about reprogramming that needed to be done--

    Thanks for your time
  • I have an 05 Z71 with 60 K on the clock.. driving up to syracuse new york on the highway... let off the gas to slow down to 65 .. then i hit the gas to speed up and it slips rpms go away and then left off the gas.. does it a couple of times and then finally it does nothing at all.. goes to trans shop and they say its a Trasfer Case decoder/actuator .... any help?
  • dtroitdtroit Posts: 5
    the trans popped and I lost reverse and 2nd gear. it had been making clunking noises for awhile, but mechanic said it was common slop in transfer case for this vehicle especially with high milaege. Was he wrong? it's obviously a trans problem also so I think I may want to tackle this problem myself, has anyone here rebuilt these units. If its going to cost 2000 bucks i would rather buy the special tools and manuals and do the job myself. any help much appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Had a 97 Sub, which experienced same problem...2nd and reverse. I saw the broken piece(s), but would need a parts breakout to remember the name of the piece that failed. It's some sort of drumlike part, which housed as I recall a number of the clutch plates. It broke at it's spindle connection hub. I had called around to get estimates which all tended to be broad ranges, except the AAmco guy....based on my symptoms indicated what it was most likely, and he was right on.

    As soon as my failed (noticed that it didn't shift into 2nd), I was within a couple miles of home and parked it. When he later opened it up and showed me the parts, he indicated he could tell I didn't drive around on it much because there wasn't much other damage. All told as I remember, there were three parts that had damage that needed replacing....the original failed piece, and then two others when a broken off piece got sucked in between two other gears. When the metal chunks break up, if they get in any of the other gears they will ruin those gears.

    I don't have the receipts anymore as I've since upgraded to a newer model year, but as I recall it your estimate is in the correct price range.

    I have always done all of the work on our vehicles over the years, including a couple engine jobs and a number of manual transmission clutches, but this is not a job that I had the desire or reasonable comfort factor that I could do. Plus, it's the vehicle we use for long distance family trips, and I didn't want to get stuck somewhere if I didn't do it right. I had the factory service manuals, and it just appeared way too complicated for my liking. I didn't want to take the risk that I did the job, and put it all together and then found out something wasn't right and I'd have to take it apart again to redo something.

    I was told to stay away from Transmission chains, but my local guy was a real knowledgeable professional, who knew exactly what he was doing. Compared to a couple independent shops, he just sounded more knowledgeable. He obviously had training and experience, which was worth it to pay for. It obviously is a big repair bill to swallow, but given how worthless the car is without a transmission, I don't think you have much choice but to fix it.

    When it came to warranties, IIRC there is a 90 day warranty, but I could buy an optional extended warranty. I don't remember the cost, but the guy said listen....I don't know your tolerance for futher pain and ability to absorb another repair bill if it happens. But I've checked everything over and your transmission is in great shape now, and I don't see the need for you to buy an extended warranty. I didn't, and he was right. I don't know that you'll find that kind of trustworthy professional elsewhere, "your mileage may vary".

    All the shops offered to tow the vehicle in "no charge", which you should also do to avoid further damage.

    Good luck, in whatever you decide to do.
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