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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,630
    My son's 626 had an accident three years ago that sounds similar to this one. No engine damage, but airbags deployed and front bumper needed replacing plus some repair to one fender. Repair was around $4000 (airbags are expensive to replace)--and that was 3 years ago.

    Is an insurance company handling the repairs? If so, they might "total" the car if the repair cost is 70% of the car's value. So if the insurance company estimates the car's value at $3500, it would take damage of only $2450 to total it. In that case you would be paid the car's value, and the insurance company would take your car.

    If you are paying for the repair yourself, it's up to you how much you want to spend fixing it. Consider that you can sell your car for parts (powetrain, body panels etc.) and then buy another used Civic. So factor the salvage value of your car into the equation when determining how much to spend repairing it.
  • teestees Posts: 2
    if you dont mind me asking, why did you decide to fix your sons 626. Did the yours or the other party's insurance cover it? It does sound like we have the same type of accident. What was the value of the 626? was it 7 years old or so like mine? what factors did you think about before you decided to fix it?

    The other parties insurance company is screwing me over the situation and if I do get anything, it will probably have to be over litigation. The car has been so good to me that I am hesitant to not fix it. I appreciate your input on this.
  • imm19imm19 Posts: 12
    Hi everyone,
    My daughter drives 99'Civic and the wiper arms are not acting right. Most of the time they (arms) park not at the bottom of the windshield but 4-5 inches up. Sometimes when she uses the maximum fast speed of the wipers they stop on the right place, otherwise when she uses intermittent regimen wipers stops above the bottom place on the windshield. Any idea why this is happen?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,630
    Sorry, just noticed your question. Our insurance covered the repairs (my son was at fault in the accident). We decided to fix it rather than have it totaled because it's a good car (still going strong) and we didn't know if we could find another 626 for what we'd get as a settlement from the insurance company. The car had to be fixed, or totaled. It was not drivable.
  • DID YOU GET THIS RESOLVED?? I DID THE SAME THING CHANGING OUT A HEAD UNIT AND SOMETHING WENT WRONG. SAME SIMPTOMS TO THE T. PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    I just bought a 1993 Civic EX sedan from my cousin. She bought it new in 1993 and drove it 44,212 miles in 16 years. It was maintained at the dealer she bought it from. Basically, for the last 10 years, she drove it about 2200 miles a year and had it serviced once a year when it was up for emissions testing to get her tag renewed.

    Anyway, the front brakes have 17k miles on them, the back brakes are original. I have no squealing and no shimmy in the brake pedal or anything. The tires are 10 years old with 22k miles on them. They don't lose air or show any signs of irregular wearing. The timing belt has not been changed. The automatic transmission has never been serviced. The CV joint are original--but they are not making any clicking sounds when turning.

    The battery was replaced (at the Honda dealer) about 6 months ago and the thermostat was replaced (at the Honda dealer) over the summer--so they pressure tested and refilled the radiator while they had it. They replaced the air filter at this year's service visit.

    My question is:

    In what order would you perform maintenance? I think the timing belt (along with the other drive belts and water pump) and the transmission fluid will be done first. I plan to do that in the next few months. I think I'll replace the brakes and tires in the next year or two--unless I get a need to do so earlier. I'll replace the CV joints when they start clicking. I only paid $1000 for the car and I feel it's worth at least $3000; so, even after all this maintenance, I still feel as though I got a good deal on this car.
  • Yikes.

    As part of the 90,000 mile maintenance service on my 1998 Civic HX coupe, the dealer told they had to change the timing belt on the car. Only one problem: it ballooned the cost of the 90,000 mile service around US$900. :surprise: Is it that costly to do timing belt changes on a Honda automobile engine? :confuse:
  • uga91uga91 Metro AtlantaPosts: 1,065
    My Honda dealer will change mine for $485 and I found a Honda Repair shop (local shop that only works on Hondas) who will do it for $450, taxes included. That includes the timing belt, all other drive belts and the water pump.
  • I am having trouble with my car overheating. The radiator fan is not kicking in and we have replaced the fan already including the relay. Any suggestions, not sure if my mechanic checked the fuse, we might have done the backyard mechanic for no reason but atleast the fan is newer LOL. My mechanic has been too busy to look at it and any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
  • check your alternator
  • Greeting, I was having the same problems with my wife's '94 Civic. I found out that it was the plastic cap on the brake light switch that was broken off, that is why the lights always stayed on. I replaced it with a homemade piece from a torn bicycle tire and double stick tape, bought at AutoZone. It has been four months now, and the lights are still staying off unless she steps on the brakes. The switch is located right behind the brake pedal, a little hard to see unless you use a flashlight or troublelight. Hope this helps.
  • Greeting everyone, my question is this, how do I get the engine codes off of my wife's'95 Honda Civic EX. The engine light is on, we bought the car for $1000, she really likes the car, but the check engine light is really starting to bother me. We did not get the manuals with the car, I bought a Haynes manual, but it does not tell me how to get the codes, to fix any problems. Thanx in advance for any advice.
  • danielldaniell Posts: 128
    I have a 1998 Civic, 78k miles, always garaged. A few day ago I heard a persistent metallic rattle, similar to the noise a loose exhaust/heat shield would make. The noise is more evident at low speeds. I took the car to the dealer, and they told me that the catalytic converter is cracked and needs replacement. Cost of repair, $800. I declined. I went to amazon.com, ebay etc. to check some prices. I am seeing 2 different kinds: the first type, $50 - $150, looking like a long, narrow cylinder, and the second type, $300-$700, much shorter/fatter, with some (exhaust?) manifold attached at one end. Both are supposed to fit my car. Here is my question: I thought there is just one catalytic converter - so which one is it? Why the huge difference in price? Finally, if I don't replace my cracked catalytic converter, what are the consequences?

    Daniel
  • Intermittent front end noise. Replaced brake pads, no rocks behind backing plates, new belts. Drive shaft solid, no play in/out and up/down. Wheel turns smoothly. Noise driving in 2nd, 3rd at high rpm to med rpm. Pushed in clutch and coasted with no brakes keeping rpm higher and noise persisted. Noise kind of a scraping noise from left front end. No difference if steering wheel turned or not. 170K on civic. Running out of ideas as to noise?
  • I found the noise. No mechanical problems. A very small rock lodged itself between the muffler heat shield and pipe just under the car on the horizontal run under the engine. It would only show up at low speeds and a certain RPM range. When stopped the noise would stop. My wife had to drive the car and I had to hop out and see where the noise was coming from within 30 seconds of stopping the car. I banged the heat shield lightly with a broom to hear the noise. After the rock removed and one 10mm bolt broken it is gone.
  • My car was overheating, so I went to get it checked at Firestone. they told me they tested exhaust gas in the cooling system which could possibly mean a blown head gasket or cracked block (which means I need to replace a head gasket or the engine since I have a high milage on my car- 227,499). does this sound correct? and what is the most practical solution? and I don't have a mechanic, so does anyone know of anyone in the long beach area?
  • My '01 Honda Civic EX needs new bushings, tires, and brake work. I'll probably have to squeeze all this in by the end of February to pass my vehicle inspection. Should the new tires wait (the current ones aren't gone yet) until the bushings are replaced? The roads here in southeast Virginia are crap.

    Thanks for your help.
  • I have 2000 Civic with 105k miles. I've noticed this same noise for at least the past 15k and passed it off as a heat shield rattle. I just had the engine light come on and AutoZone diagnosed it as a failed O1 oxygen sensor. It was a fairly easy swap out for $69 (AutoZone deposit for tool use) and the engine alert went away but the rattled still bothered me enough to do some more investigation. My search lead me to your post and hundreds others. Sure enough this has to be the issue. Here is the best prices I have found for with or without the catalytic converter. I'm planning on purchase these and installing them myself. I will post again after I have them installed.

    partstrain.com
    http://www2.partstrain.com/store/?Ntt=honda+civic+manifold&submit_search.x=39&su- - - - - - - bmit_search.y=18

    autopartswarehouse.com (free shipping)
    http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?N=0&VN=4294967031+4294967025+429496718- 9+4294967022+4294966998&PN=2665+11921&Ne=5&Nr=AND(wpn_tl_name:Engine+%26+Drivetrain,wpn_cat_name:Exhaust+%26+Emissions,wpn_scat_n- ame:Headers+%26+Manifolds,universal:0)&refType=Tab&refValue=Stock+Replacement

    Here's an exploded assembly of the entire system:
    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - - - - - - cgry1=CIVIC&catcgry2=2000&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=EXHAUST+MANIFO- - - - - - - - LD+%281%29

    You can see how much more the OE (Honda) pricing is compared to the OEM.
  • danielldaniell Posts: 128
    In my case, I had 2 different problems, as I suspected... The first was indeed a heat shield rattle - that was actually causing the noise. The tech at the dealer also showed me a crack in the exhaust manifold, which I decided to fix. They agreed to install my part ($185 shipped from amazon.com) for $120:

    http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Solutions-Exhaust-Manifold-674-439/dp/B000C14HF6/re- f=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1259267632&sr=1-1

    So grand total was $305, not too bad.
  • daniell - Thanks for the amazon link. It saved me a few dollars and was shipped to my house in two days with free shipping selected.

    I went ahead and bought the Dorman exhaust manifold/cat system with two new oxygen sensors and installed them this past weekend. It took about 4-5 hours. If I had to do it again I would say it would only take 2. Some of that time was also installing stainless steel hose clamps (from Lowes) around the rattling heat shields. Pretty easy and cheap fix. The Dorman instructions are limited and without visual diagrams. Disregard the extra parts.

    A few notes on installation. The Honda manifold/cat has to removed from underneath the engine. You first have to remove two bolts to free the exhaust pipe that hangs near the oil pan. Pull it to one side and bungee cord it to something. Once the old one is out of the way, the Dorman will then slide in easily from the top since it's smaller than the OEM manifold. Make sure you put in the three bolts (w/ anti-seize) in the return exhaust plate underneath the cat before dropping it in. Line up these three bolts along with the engine mount and slide in the manifold at the same time. Once in place, slide the hanging exhaust into place and mount the 4 bolts underneath to the return pipe underneath the cat. Finger tight these and the manifold bolts until everything lines back up perfectly. I went ahead and locked down the manifold bolts first and then tightened the exhaust bolts last. I'm sure it's fine either way. I hope this helps.
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