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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair



  • Hi, I recently bought a 1992 civic 4cyclinder, hence heading, and was wondering what the price was for repairing/replacing anything that needs to be done. Any input is appreciated,

    -D15B4 series SOHC 16 Valve
    -about 195,000km on it (not miles)

    I bought if off my mate for $1000 AUD, Unregistered. To get it registered, I brought it to the mechanics to get a Road Worthy Certificate, RWC, ( According to Victoria Laws, coz I live in Melbourne ). Problems/expenses that I've encountered so far


    -Alternator, got that replaced for $100 - parts and labour included
    -Needed a Unregistered permit from VicRoads in-order to drive the car around, 10 days for roughly $50
    -VicRoads inspection $50
    -Some lightbulbs such as brake lights/parking lights/front lights replacement $10
    -Needed to replace my whole front windscreen, since the mechanics would not let me get a RWC because of a scratch smaller then a $1 dollar coin, I had no insurance cover so it cost me about $185-the guy came down to my place and installed it.
    -Road Worthy Certificate cost me $120, fair price since the mechanics need to take photos of every car before issuing a Road Worthy Cert.
    -Gasket cover valve change $150, got this done at the same mechanic which issued me the RWC, knew this was a rip-off since they get the part in for 20-30bucks or something, Wasn't going to do it, but it had to be done to prevent oil leak, and pass

    the RWC.
    -Petrol $50bucks
    -Power Steering container replacement $20
    -Bought some minor accessories for $20
    -Registration at VicRoads $610

    Thats how much I spent so far, and now I need the following to be done:

    Just got a quote for $650 which includes

    -full tune up
    -full service
    -water pump replacement
    -timing belt replacement
    -adjusting the carby choke due to car having a hard time starting up
    -brakes bleeding due to the car Stil going abit when I step on the brakes

    I told the mechanic I also have these problems:

    -acceleration problem- there's a kick especially when you slow down or idle and press the pedal to accelerate, happens at corner turns as well as normal simple accelleration to increase speed,
    -and some rattling sound when your driving on a 80km/hr road

    Anyone know what these problems are and approx how much to fix ?
    -worst case scenario or easy fix input would be greatful
  • I have no certificates when it comes to working on Honda's, but i can tell you that cleaning the IACV is just a temporary fix, i can't tell you how many times I've taken that valve off of my girlfriends '99 Civic and cleaned it, i'm willing to bet i could do it in complete darkness. My advice: replace the part as i'm having to do, i did happen to find a a website and they have the IACV for our Civic's for $75, which is at least $100 less than the national auto parts people.
  • 97 civic LX sedan 176,800 miles....In the past 5 years I had the main computer replaced and cracked manifold replaced by the dealer. Now in the past 2 months this is the third time my speedometer has gone haywire while driving down the road or accelorating at an intersection. I need to disconnect the speedometer sensor to be able to drive the car. I have had the computer replaced with a used version twice and the speed sensor replaced once and all connection cleaned. Now I need this fixed again. In past 2 months as it had before ithis intially started it has felt like something was holding the engine back while trying to eccelerate . sometimes at high speed 50+mph engine hesitates and then rpms will jump way high then it wont speed up. It also feel like there is something holding back the engine at low speed. About 1 year ago the oxygen sensor was replaced. The fan for heat/ AC has gotten much noisier.
    Could there be a short somewhere? Is there a warranty still affective for the manifold or ECu computer beyond 150,00miles.......

    Also about 5 years ago the SRS main unit had an internal failure isn't Honda responsible for replacing it The dealer has refused to pay to replace it from the get-go.

    I would appreciate any advice.. Thank you!
  • cmruffcmruff Posts: 15
    Where is the fuse for my (dead) front power socket, the socket that is NOT in the center console? Is it #28 in the fuse box by the steering column? I looked in the manual and that's the closest thing I saw and I'm at work so can't look under hood yet.
  • cmruffcmruff Posts: 15
    2006 Civic EX sedan, sorry, meant to have that in post
  • My husband replaced my drivers door lock actuator since my remote would no longer lock or unlock my doors. The manual switch in the door worked fine. Now, once I close the drivers door, it locks automatically, and it is very difficult to open with the key from the outside. Wondering if there is some other part we should have replaced along with/instead of the actuator? I cannot manually lock the drivers door from inside since the replacement, and the entire lock seems very stubborn and near freezing up. Please help!!
  • 1998 Honda Civic LX with 116k on the odometer, while driving I get a vibration while my foot is on the accelerator happens while on expressway and while driving local. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks
  • michkkmichkk Posts: 1
    did you find out the problem ,because I have a 2001 honda civic and it does the same thing and I cant figure it out .I will check in to see your response thanks mich
  • abckatabckat Posts: 2
    edited January 2012
    my battery was 3 or 4 yrs old. I replaced that. The light occasionaly goes dim in the area between 40-60mph on speedometer and the whole fuel level. sometimes one or the other are dim a or both are lit up normally. There doesn't seem to be rhyme or reason to it.
    after changing the battery Its only had the issue where the car "stalls" when when trying to speed up about 3 times since the battery swap. Its been about 6-7 weeks ago?

    I haven't had any problems with the whole speedometer going crazy and having to disconnect it to drive the car.

    When I swap out my winter tires in April I'll have the lights/electrical checked out that light up the dash.
    There has to be something corroded and shorting out there... and just need needs to be replaced from age. I can hear a loud click sometimes when the light comes on. a friend said he cleaned all the connections from the distributor going to the speedometer the ECU and dash area.

    The only other thing I did was replace my headlight bulbs they were visiblely dimmer due to be at least 10 years old.
  • Hi, I have a Honda Civic 2000 with about 108,000 miles on it. A little while ago the "check engine" light come on even though the car was running fine. My mechanic said it had to do with the oxygen sensor. They reset some codes, and the light went off, but my car began shaking while at a stoplight and even stalled once--something it has never done before. I took it back, they ran some tests, then said it needed a new oxygen sensor. With labor and parts, it came to almost $500. A few days after that, the engine light came back on. I took it back, and the cycle was repeated--engine light reset, car shaking at stoplights. The mechanic told me to come back again and have their specialist look at it again. I have used this garage successfully for several years, but they have to bring in an outside mechanic to do this job, and they can't answer any questions about the work themselves. Advice and info is welcome. Does it sound to you like I need a new mechanic?
  • maldo2maldo2 Posts: 1
    My son has a 95 Civic 1.6L D16Z6, and while doing a tune up, we basically found out that whoever did it last before my son bought it, stripped the #4 spark plug. We decided to take the head off to rethread the spark plug hole. I keep on hearing that this is the safest way to do it. Well, for the TDC, #1 piston is high, the alignment marks are lined up on the camshaft sprocket. The rotor is pointing towards the #1 spark plug wire and the timimg marks by the belt are lined up. the only thing the haynes book, it says to align mark in the flywheel/drive plate with the notch in the pointer.... I cant find this. so will it be ok if I continue to take the head off as long as all the other stuff is lined up???????
  • I've got a 2010 civic lx with the stock steel wheels and hub caps - and looking at Civic alloys being sold on Craigslist - one set is off the 2012 EX and the other is off the EX 2010.

    both look like nice upgrades, but my impression is that the rims from the 2012 model look less substantial in the amount of metal used - Consumer Reports really slams the most recent edition of the civic and I was thinking they cut costs in many areas including the rims.

    anyone else think that?
  • Hi everyone.

    So I am inheriting a 2002 Honda Civic EX with 65k mi on it. I know I'm going to take it to the mechanic and have it checked out and replace what it needs.

    However, I'm pretty sure I'll need new tires.

    Any tire gurus out there? Mostly need decent comfort, low road noise, and decent tread wear. I was thinking of going with Costco Bridgestone Ecopia EP422 when they have a Bridgestone discount. That or go to Discount Tire and get either the Hankook Mileage Plus II or the Cooper CS4 Touring. Which would be best?
  • anosleranosler Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    In the middle left of this photo there is a short, hardened hose sticking out of the engine bay wall. On my 1996 Civic Hx that hose is leaking what seems to be water... Anybody know what this might be? image
  • Likely lat answering this, but at about 110k miles the timing belt MUST be replaced. If it breaks, you lose the whole engine. Prices vary by location and mechanic, but that should be around $350 atop other maintenance. As for the suspension, I have never experienced this in any Honda I have owner (owned them constantly since late 80's) so I cannot address this. If you push down hard on the car then quickly release if it bounces hard a second bounce, or does a 3rd bounce after you release it, the shocks or struts are likely bad (learned this clear back in the 60's, it's kind of a rule of thumb). That's the best I can advise on suspension.
  • The most common cause of this is the in-tank fuel pump (Civic has 2, one in the tank and 1 near the engine, both electric) Either the pump is bad, the sensor, or the attendant wiring. In any event, that has happened to my 2x on Hondas since the mid 90's. Both times it required both a pump and sensor as both were over 180k miles.
  • Hello everybody,

    I recently encountered a problem that I'm a little confused on what the cause might be.

    I was driving the other day with no problems and it was raining heavily. As I was enter the freeway, the engine stalled for a second and would no longer accelerate, it would just idle at 10-15MPH. I pulled to the right shoulder, shut off the engine to check under the hood. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary, but I am no mechanic, so a glaring problem would go unseen even if it sticks out like a sore thumb.

    However, after having a quick look under the hood and not finding anything. I tried to start the car and it would not start. It could not be the battery because all the lights etc were on. Needless to say, I called AAA and had it towed back to my house.

    The following day, it started and ran normally without any problems thus far.

    I was talking to a friend who was looking under the hood at the same night while it was raining and suggested maybe too much water gotten onto the engine and caused it. I am no expert truth be told and unsure how accurate that is.

    My question is, have anybody experienced a similar problem and have found out what was the cause? I drive pretty long distances daily and having a car die out like that would get pretty dangerous on the highways with traffic.

    Thanks in advance for the responses, I hope I can have an idea of what the problem might be and suggest it to my mechanic if he can't find a definite answer.
  • On a car that old, it is possible that old wiring can lose it's seal, thus letting in water. It's not hard to use a silicon gel to reseal connections, but without knowing the right wires to check, this one is probably best left to a mechanic IMO. You may wind up having to replace a harness, but a good mechanic might be able to reseal bad connections. A harness can mean big bucks, so I would get a second opinion if your mechanic says you need one.
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