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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair

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  • Quick update, I was driving home from my daily commute, made the drive up with no problems, but ran into the problem several times coming home.

    Engine loses power won't accelerate when I pushed on the gas. Eventually pulled over to check, again car won't start. It will crank but would not start. But after 20 minutes it would start again. At this time I have already called AAA and they have already sent a tow truck.

    I had it towed to my friends body shop for him to look at and he said that the problem seem to be the coil/distributor. I really hope its that simple.

    Has anybody have a similar problem and if replacing the coil or and the distributor fix the problem?
  • olddustofferolddustoffer Posts: 16
    edited December 2012
    Clearly an electrical issue. Best of luck, but the last time I had a large electrical issue, it cost big (However, this had to do with my son shorting out the wiring harness under the dash trying to install a big stereo). Wasn't something I could blame on Honda. The other thing possible might be one of the fuel pumps acting up. Please let me know what they find.
  • brutellabrutella Posts: 3
    edited December 2012
    I just talked to my mechanic this morning and he said he replaced the distributor and left the car running for about an hour and it didn't shut off.

    Before he installed it he left it running for 20 minutes and it died.

    I haven't had the chance to go pick it up and actually drive it around but it seems that the problem was indeed the distributor.

    However, I still have my fingers crossed until I drive it around.
  • Thanks for the info. I may need it for my 2001 Civic
  • abhipabhip Posts: 1
    Hi All

    I am really confused and would appreciate any answers / help you have to offer. So here is the issue:

    I bought a 2003 Honda Civic Coupe EX for $5000 in August 2011. Then took it to 3 mechanics to get 3 different opinions, in order to get it completely fixed. My idea was to drive the car for atleast 5 yrs. So in order to fulfill that idea, I spent close to another $5000 on it.

    The fixes included:
    Replaced timing belt and 2 drive belts and valve cover gasket
    Replaced both lower control arm units
    New water pump
    Replaced all front seals, cam and crank seals
    Replaced thermostat and gasket
    Replaced both front and rear struts
    Replaced new spark plugs
    Serviced Automatic transmission fluid flush
    New battery
    4 new Honda tires
    replaced clock spring behind steering driving air bag

    After 16 months of driving, it turns out that the engine has ceased on me because of a chipped camshaft and compression problems. It will cost another $2000 to get a 75k mile engine as replacement. This time as well I got 2 opinions and both stated the same problem.

    Now the predicament is whether i should sell it or spend more to fix it? If I look at the numbers, I have already spent $10k on the car and if i sell it, the max i will get is around $2500. But if I chose to fix it by dumping another $2000 in it since majority of the parts in it are close to new, I am not sure how long the car is going to last w/o major issues and whats the guarantee that I wont have to spend more? I am really confused at this point.

    Please advise.
  • olddustofferolddustoffer Posts: 16
    edited December 2012
    Am I to understand that you bought it THEN took it to mechanics?
    Never a good idea. Without a warrantee, you should Always have a Mechanic look at it.

    Too late now. What I am seeing you had done was at least 30% overpriced at 5k More like 50% Timing Belt/Water pump $300, Struts $1200-1500 Seals <800.

    It's your call, but if you buy a 75K miles engine, you are looking at Timing belt/water pump(always do them together as it saves taking the front of the engine off again) at 110K engine miles, You didn't say how many miles on it, but a new Tranny is likely at @200k-250K miles if automatic.

    Personally, I would take the $2000-$2500 and buy one off the lot for 17k or less, depending on what you buy. For what your mechanics are charging, I'd find new mechs after the Warantee on the new one wears off. You either bought a rare Honda lemon, or one with a TON of HARD miles on it.
    Please Please take any used car to a trusted (prolly Factory) Mech BEFORE buying. If they won't let you, walk away. You cannot afford any deal you can't walk away from.
    BTW, I'd buy some cheap used tires and stick em on B4 selling as well. Save or sell the good ones. It's not going to affect the price on a broken engine car in my experience.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Driving the wife to work nothing seemed wrong, took a right hand turn....car dies. I pop it into N and it restarted for about three seconds then died again (for good this time). Pulled it home to my garage and hooked up the OBD2 scanner and to which it read absolutly no problems. This car was my brothers wifes before i bought it and i know she isnt the brightest bulb but my brother says he has never had any issues with the car. Im stumped, its getting fuel, the battery is almost new and no trouble codes. Anyone have any ideas?
  • You didn't say what year or how many miles on the car. without knowing that, I have no book to look at. Has it restarted since then? When did you last run Fuel System cleaner through it? If over 100k miles on it, has the timing belt been changed? If that is overdue, you may have a serious engine rebuild coming.
  • Yes on the mechanic. at 108k miles, you are due for a Timing Belt change at 110K, so if they have to dig into the car at all, that should probably be done. I always have them replace the Water Pump at Timing Belt time as they already have the front of the engine torn off, and it may save some serious money later. Since your shop has to bring in an Import Specialist, it would seem unlikely that they have the required Diagnostic computer as well. The shaking most likely is at least 1 cylinder misfiring, and may be solvable by running Fuel Injector cleaner through it. I recommend doing that about every 7-10 fill-ups, but others may well disagree. it depends upon what grade/type of fuel you buy. Some already have additives, but cheap "convenience store" types do not. Please keep me updated, so I can add the results to my knowledge.
  • At that low a mileage, you shouldn't have to baby it on uphills at all. Is it Automatic or Standard transmission? My 2001 with 185k miles (Standard) pulls serious hills with only going down to 4th (there is a hill on I-25 between Albuquerque and Santa Fe where you go up 3k or more feet in 4 miles, which I do in 4th). IMO you may have a fuel Pump issue. Most Hondas have 2 fuel pumps, one inside the fuel tank and another up at the engine, both electric.
    As for the noise, is it constant rumbling like a bad muffler would be? or is it intermittent? Does it pop loudly on deceleration? If so, you either have a bad muffler or exhaust leak somewhere. Does the sound come from underneath or from the engine box? If underneath, may well be the muffler, especially if you live in an area where they use a lot of salt in the winters. Any noise coming out of the engine box is more serious.
    IMO, while a dealer is more expensive, unless you have a mechanic that specializes in Imports, you may have to go to a dealership. You have 2 problems at least in my experience. The slowing down is the most serious. It is possible that the noise could be caused by an exhaust manifold leak (which could also cause power loss) but you say it has always been weak uphill so I doubt that the 2 are related.
    The first thing I do when I buy a (used) car, is have a few little things fixed by a mechanic, so I know if he is honest, then I establish a "Rapport" with him so I can trust him with bigger items as they come up. I still view even the dealership Mechanics with a wary eye, and frequently get second opinions. I suggest that on any high dollar item, that you also get a second opinion/estimate. Even my regular mechanic occasionally tries to add a few "less than necessary" items to my bill if I don't pay attention. Unless you are carrying a heavy load, a civic should never slow down more than 2 gears on most (highway) hills.
    If it is slowing down to 30 on level ground, it is certainly no exhaust problem. It could be anything from a bad fuel pump to a dropped valve or worse.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    edited January 2013
    Its a 2001 with about 130K on it. Have to ask my brother about the timing belt but my best guess would be no. It has not restarted since but the fuel pump is coming on. When trying to start now it sounds as if the starter isnt engaging, but i dont see how that would stop a car that was already running. If it was a timing belt i would expect a trouble code, or am i wrong on that? Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks!
  • hi everyone if someone can tell what problem i have in my car
    started in a day when it was -30c and i was on the hightway runing about 110km/h then one time i felt the shifting knob is shaking ,the same feeling like there is a spark plug not working and the car going on 3 spark plugs, so i check them and i found oil on 2nd and 3rd spark plug, i cleaned everything even changed the joint-set of the head gasket installed every thing back in place but still doing the same thing .
    not all time only when i reach 70km/h on 4th and 5th depend specially when im going on a bridge ,at 80km/h it return no shaking again
    1st.2nd.3rd has no problem at all with smooth shifting or burning and the engine gives good power also
    so what is that and why exactly at 70km/h ?????
    my car has 256000 km
    thank you
  • azfarazfar Posts: 6
    Does adding a Vtec to a non vtec 2004 civic lx gives any increase in Horsepower ? im thinking it may be does because same model of car with EX trim that comes with a VTEC gives about "12" more horse power... correct me if im wrong
    Edit/Delete Message
  • tpcitpci Posts: 3
    AC was not cooling well. Mechanic put in dye to tell where leak was, then recharged system. Same day (and first time ever) intermittent rattling from engine area. The following day I noticed regular-timed engine power drops (2 seconds lightly sluggish, then 2 seconds normal... continuously). When I turn the A/C off, it immediately stops.
    By the way, no leaks detected.
    Any ideas?
  • Hey all,

    Our '05 LX is approaching 105,000mi and looks like it should be due for a few maintenance items, like the replacement of the spark plugs and an inspection of the valve clearance. I want to say that in the past I have seen Honda mention not needing a tune up until 105k miles, but I'm not sure what that entails exactly.

    We had the timing belt/water pump replaced last year so while that is out of the way, is there any other large ticket item that should be inspected?
  • olddustofferolddustoffer Posts: 16
    edited July 2013
    Since the Timing belt is done, the only other item is transmission flush if it's Automatic.
    They should check the suspension components as well. Civic Struts last about 150K as a rule.
    Not sure what they do on a tuneup as they hook it to a computer and it tells them about everything. My "Shade Tree" tuneups ended with the need for the computer diagnosis.
    Of course, they need to do a compression test, but that would be a given when they pull the Plugs I would think.
    I'll look at my Civic Book and see if I can add anything.
  • Thanks, I appreciate it. I will put a suspension check up on the to do list.

    In January I brought the car to a local Honda dealer for an oil change and they told me that the compliance bushings and front stabilizer links needed to be changed to the tune of $600. I've been meaning to have the car looked at by an independent mechanic that I know but I haven't had a chance and the car has been fine as far as I can tell.
  • that is your compressor turning on and off. can be caused by a few different things. More often than not it is because you are low on r134-a(coolant). did the mechcanic find a leak and repair it?
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