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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kenlwkenlw Posts: 190
    we've had aftermarket keyless entries / alarms installed for about $200 on non-civics in the past.
  • Thanks for the pricing info, but does anyone know if it's true that all 97 Civic LX's have the receiver built into them and only require honda keyless remotes for programming?
  • thegagethegage Posts: 13
    '95 DX Coupe: In heavy rain downpours I get water leaking from the bottom of the heater fan housing. Checked the drain for the A/C unit and it is not blocked. I suspect there is some drain hole in the firewall that is plugged, but I have no idea where to check. Any help appreciated.
  • my 1996 civic dx is acting up and I don't know what's wrong. I will be driving along and then out of the blue, it's like the the engine cuts out or shutters for a second and then kicks back in again. It will also cut out and on quickly almost seeming like the engine is jumping. (giving a good occasional quick jolt while driving) does this make sense or sound familiar to anyone. (it sometimes cuts out to the point where even though the gas pedal is pushed down, there is no power and it just decelerates or shuts down until the car shuts off, and then after waiting a few minutes, you can start it up and drive it a little further before it happens again???) Otherwise, when it cuts out at about 100km/hr, it will kick back in again about 8 seconds later and seem fine....I tried some injector cleaner but it didn't help. The plugs, distributor cap, fuel filter, catylic converter, exhaust manifold and alternator have all been changed and nothing seems to work....please help as I am really not good with this stuff. :confuse:
  • jsmartjsmart Posts: 3
    Not sure if this goes here or not but I just have to say I love Honda. I have had my civic since new and it now has 102000 miles on it. The other day my wife was driving home and it was having problems going over 60 mph so I said just take it to the dealer and I will meet you there. The next day the maintenance department calls and says it will be 791.00 to fix my cat and manifold. I said fix it because we had the car in last spring and was going to have some work done around 800.00 and it was all covered under extended warranty so I figured what the heck. Well today the service department called me and said all the parts where covered under a different extended warranty again. This has saved me around 1600.00 and all I have done is routine maintenance on the car for 10 years. What other company does this! Thank you so much HONDA I will be a customer for life.

    P.S. we also have a 2007 Ody :shades:
  • jzurjzur Posts: 4
    My 1993 honda civic window stops at about one inch from the top. I think it will need a window lift motor. Anyone know how to remove and renew this motor? I also have a problem with it not starting all the time. I installed new plugs and wires with a new fuel filter, but this didn't help. Also had a fuel pump installed, still no help. Someone told me that if could be the pressure regulator valve. When I turn on the key and let it pump it will start. However sometimes when I turn on the key the pump doesn't pump and the check engine light does not go off.
  • thegagethegage Posts: 13
    For your no-start it sounds as if it could be an intermittent fuel pump relay problem.
  • kenlwkenlw Posts: 190
    this sounds like fuel pump, either the pump is failing or the wiring to the pump is failing, causing it to just stop momentarily. I think the pump is located under the rear seat, lift up the seat cushion and see if the wiring looks ok. It may be just a bad connection, 1st try unplugging it and plugging it back in. If that's not it, have the pump tested.
  • honmanhonman Posts: 1
    My 2001 civic lx with auto trans -88000 miles.
    I recently changed the power steering pump and since then I have the following problems:
    on starting the odometer reads 888888, the tachometer drops to 0, the gear shift indicator blinks, fuel gauge becomes inacurate. The car runs normally except that the tachometer bounces from 0 to normal. Any sugestions of what is happening?
  • Hi, My Honda Civic 2000 Model LX gives some pulsating/vibration sound at the rear. This is particularly when slowing down or making turns. Can someone guide what the problem is and the severity ? Of course, there is no obstruction on driving, just the odd feeling...thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Can you 'feel' the vibration in the brake pedal? or just hear that sound at the rear while braking or not?

    If you can feel the vibration in the brake pedal while you are slowing down, then the problem is a warped brake rotor.

    You could also have a defective tire.
  • No it's not in brake pedal, it's just at the rear. Technically, I should say the vibration sound occurs when turning/slowing. this means even if car is not braking, the vibration is there.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Why don't you swap the tires from front to back, to see if the problem moves forward, or stays in the rear.
  • jzurjzur Posts: 4
    I replaced the window regulator with motor. I purchased a used one from a local honda salvage yard. I also purchased a CD for this auto off ebay, BIG Help. I also did research with the honda cd and found that the main relay was bad. This was my starting problem. So if you have trouble with your vehicle I would recomend you purchase a CD for your vehicle. Thanks again, John
  • I can't quite put my finger on it, but I think my 1996 Civic sounds and feels different from when I bought it. Like I think it's louder than it was when accelerating.

    The main thing I'm wondering about is should the car always shift gears at the same speed? Depending on how fast I'm accelerating, the car doesn't seem to shift from 2-3 at the same speed twice. It's shifted as low as about 22 and anywhere up to 30.

    I don't think I've had any slipping, and I think the fluid is okay. (Level looks fine, I can't tell any discoloration)

    Especially after driving for awhile, I think it has less power than it should (I know it has none to begin with anyways, but it feels like less), and sometihng just doesn't feel right, like it doesn't feel stable?

    So am I being paranoid, or is something wrong?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well it's eleven years old, you don't feel the same way you did eleven years ago, do you?

    You don't indicate how many miles you have on it, and what maintenance has been done.....but have you considered giving it an engine tune up? Has the transmission fluid been changed as outlined in the owners manual? It getting louder could be the muffler or tailpipe getting a hole/crack in it somewhere....has anybody checked the vehicle over recently?
  • kenlwkenlw Posts: 190
    Your transmission will shift at different points based on several things, including: speed, load, engine RPM. Worn items such as kiawah mentioned can also affect when it shifts, as these can directly affect what the transmission controller 'sees' as speed, load, engine RPM, etc. And I will bet that in 11 years, your driving style has changed a bit as well.

    A good tune up and general maintenance refresh may be just the fix you need. Regardless, it certainly won't hurt!
  • I have a 1993 Honda Civic. It has over 120,000 miles. It runs great! The speedometer however works intermittantly. Any ideas where to start? I am believe the gage is ok.

    Thanks,

    IdahoCivic
  • Probably a bad instrument cluster. Can buy one from a salvage yard for $50.00 and swap it out. Look here: www.car-part.com
  • Is there a speedo cable or is there a sending unit on the transmisson?
  • I have a 01 honda civic, last night i was cold and wanted the heat on. it didn't work so i turned it up higher only to notice that the temp gauge was going up fast. Turned the car off and the temp gauge was okay. Turned the heat on and it went up again. Turned the heat off and it didn't go down either. Is this a connected problem or do i have two different issues?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The way that they could be related, is two different symptoms of a single problem.

    If your radiator coolant was very low, you would not get heat (I assume that is what you mean when you say that the heat didn't work), and without coolant the engine would overheat and show as high on your temperature gauge.
  • I checked the coolant level as you stated, the reservoir is at max, and there is coolant in the radiator. are these signs of a possible water pump or thermostat failure?

    a few more details of the problem:
    - heater was turned on, and only ambient temperature air was vented out. shortly after, temp gauge peaked at max temp. I shut of the car for only a couple minutes and it was back to normal after starting it up again. after a few blocks, i turned the heater back on, and the temp gauge went up quickly after turning the heater back on. heater was then turned off, car shut off and restarted; temp gauge went back to normal. it spiked one more time after a few blocks and went back to normal and remained that way for the rest of the trip home. car hasn't been started since.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When a water pump is going bad, you normally would be hearing it squealing and/or see it leaking.

    Has any work been done on it recently, are you leaving out any other bits of information about this car? Have you had any work done on it in the last couple of months?

    What you can do when the engine is cold, is take off the radiator cap and then start the vehicle and let it idle. Watch the temperature gauge, as well as watch for movement of water in the radiator when the thermostat opens as the engine starts to warm. If the engine overheats without the water starting to flow, suspect thermostat or waterpump.
  • no work done recently other than oil change 2000 miles ago. there are no squealing noises or leaking to my knowledge. i am going to start the engine and give it a test. thanks for the quick reply.
  • did the test, the coolant circulated. i could see the coolant in the radiator until the heat was turned on then it dropped(this could just be a coincidence..i am not sure). The heat was working great now. checked the oil and it was a healthy brown color. the temp gauge was normal. 5 minutes total run time. the question now is should the coolant level be visible at all times in the radiator or is it normal that it dropped? could this just be a fluke? should we let the engine idle longer than five minutes for the test? anything else we should check? thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, there should be coolant filled in the radiator at all times. What actually happens is when it gets hot it expands, and blows the extra fluid out into the recycling tank. When the engine is turned off, the water reduces in volume, and it sucks the overfill back in from the recyling tank.

    I was asking whether you had any work done, as sometimes vehicles can get air locked if the radiator was drained and refilled (the air keeps the water from circulating). If you haven't had any work, then this could not have been a problem.

    However, I would be watching this closely until you figure out exactly what is going on. You might have a problem with a head gasket, with the cylinder compressing and blowing air/exhaust mixture into the coolant (thereby creating an airlock).

    You might want to consider doing a pressure test on each of the cylinders, just to be safe.
  • is it a safe guess that the oil would be cloudy if its a leaky head gasket? is this something that should be taken to a dealership or can any shop do it? any guess for cost on worst case scenario?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, if the oil was cloudy, would suspect head gasket.

    "Any" shop - no. Doesn't need to be a dealer, but should be a shop which does engine tear down work regularly.

    Get a compression test done (or buy a guage and do it yourself), that usually is pretty telling one way or the other.
  • Hi, I'm new here. Looks like some great stuff going on. Hoping someone can help me. I have owned a '94 Civic LX 4-dr since new. The heater temp control lever just broke - it still slides back and forth but no longer seems to be connected inside the dash. It probably connects to a cable that controls the temp. I'd like to pull the heater control panel out of the dash to see what's going on back there - how do I remove the panel? Thanks a bunch in advance, Scott
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