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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair

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  • I recently bought my parents a 2001 Civic sedan. Unfortunately, after 2 months we've now noticed that the trunk will not open with a key. It will only open with the pull handle next to the driver's seat. This car is pretty basic on features, there is no remote, only keyed entry. I tried in vain to search for some type of master switch in the glovebox.

    The manual says something about the trunk only opening with a master key, and I'm pretty sure the two keys we have are not valet keys.

    Anyone have any ideas?
  • i recently bought a 1995 Honda Civic Dx Coupe and recently i began hearing a sound in the passenger airbag side, it sounds like running water but idk what it can be...
    need help.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Probably the engine/radiator coolant, which is flowing thru the passenger heater core. You may need to bleed the air from the system, if it doesn't purge itself of the air by itself.
  • galfgalf Posts: 1
    I love my Honda Civic 2005 except for my driver's window... For more than a year now, every once in a while, my window won't roll back up. I've taken it to Honda several times and each time, if they actually find a problem (because the window always rolls up at the dealership) they replace something else, like the motor. This works for a while... until the window won't roll up again. I am worried because my 3 year warranty will be ending soon and I don't know what to do (and don't want to start dishing out the $$ for a chronic problem).
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well you may ask for a dealer consideration if it continues to fail, as you will have repeated service orders for the same issue. Have they replaced the switch yet...and if not, the next time it fails....try wiggling the switch back and forth and around while it has failed, to see if that will make it work. Then you'd know the switch was bad.
  • My Honda Civic maybe on it's last leg and I desperately need help!
    I will try and sum it up for you as best as I can. The car problems started about a year ago. My husband replaced the radiator with a brand new radiator from NAPA. However, he did NOT replace any of the hoses. At the time I did not realize this was a big NO NO. I do a lot of road trips and I took a 8 hour road trip a month after the radiator was put in. Well, on my way back [three hours from home] my car over-heated. I blew a hole in one of the hoses. The car got so hot, it shut itself off. I had to be towed. I know your asking yourself, was all my hoses replaced now. NO!
    About three weeks ago, same situation only I was 10 minutes away from home. I blew another hose.
    Yesterday, my car was waiting inline at my son's school and it started sputtering. Next thing you know it is smoking. My husband said it is blowing oil out the cap. There is no oil in the water and there is no water in the oil. I have over 200,000 miles on the original motor. I need to know what could be wrong before my husband totally destroys my car. Please help me!!!
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You probably blew a head gasket, which sits on top of the engine block/cylinders, and under the head that contains the valves. The gasket keeps cylinder gas in the cylinders and engine where it belongs, and coolant water in the cooling circuit for cooling. When the gasket blows, coolant gets into the engine and oil (very bad), and oil gets into the coolant system (which can be easily flushed/cleaned).

    For what it is worth, this was probably your original problem all along....which caused your radiator to leak to start with, then your hoses to blow out (the next weakest thing), etc.
  • enverenver Posts: 4
    I bought a 2002 Civic LX with 34K mi earlier this month. The Honda dealer replaced the alternator and power steering pump belts when the alternator belt began to fail (frayed). Since the repair the power steering pump seems to labor especially when under load ( slow speed turns). Is that belt just too tight or has another problem blossomed?
  • If you have noise (squealing) and hard steering at low speeds the belt is likely too loose.
  • Actually, it sounds more like a cracked head, where the crack is at the top of the combustion chamber in one of the cooling jackets. The pressure from the combustion chamber is getting into the cooling system, which is why you blew your radiator and then the hoses. It is also why you don't see coolant/oil contamination. Replacing the hoses with the radiator wouldn't have fixed the basic problem since they aren't the cause of your overheating. A compression test would help confirm this. It if is a cracked head, then the only solution is replacement--assuming the overheating hasn't damaged the engine further.
  • What to do? I bought a certified Honda Civic DX Value from a local dealership. Had 52000 miles on it. I took it back in for its 60000 mile service and since then have put about 9000 miles over 9 months on it, I did get an oil change at about 65000 miles. I took it in to a local authorized Honda mechanic (no Honda dealership for about 60 miles) and I had to get an engine oil flush instead of just an oil change because of all the sludge in the oil. Is it at all possible under my driving conditions that in 4000 miles the sludge would have built up.

    I just do not see how. I live in the mountains of NC but most of my driving is done on four lane hwy either to and from work or driving to Atlanta to catch an airplane.

    How responsible do you guys feel the dealership that sold this to me is?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You wouldn't have sludge built up in 4K miles, if that is your question.

    How many oil changes did you have from 52K, to the oil change at 65K?
  • Driving on highway car stopped. Towed to repair shop. Replaced Distributor Assembly, timing belt, spark plugs, ignition wire set, fuel filter, water pump and gave a cooling system transfusion. Get "fixed" car and drive <20 miles and check engine light comes on for the first time - ever - since owning the car - 9 years. Car has 110,000 miles. What could be happening now? Damage to engine they did not notice?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Could be anything. Have the error code read from the computer, and that will point you to the right area.

    Many autoparts chains will read this free of charge.....or you can by an inexpensive reader and read your own error codes.
  • Thank you - we did learn that the error message refers to the catalytic converter. I am extremely suspicious as the car was just tested 2 months ago and passed emissons inspection. I can't help but wonder if something was hit/bumped/dislogded in the work that was done (something with the sensors perhaps) during the work....Anyone know the life expectancy of a catalytic converter and why this would happen just hours after this other work was done...BTW the car runs really well now.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'd have the error light reset, and see if it comes back on.

    You'd have an O2 sensor right before the converter, then the converter, and then another O2 sensor after the sensor. It might be worth replacing the first sensor before having to tackle the converter. They are monitored by the computer, which then adjusts the intake fuel mixture to get the appropriate burning of gases.
  • Hi,

    Does anyone know where is the fuel filter for 2004 civic EX? I 'm trying to change the fuel filter but can't locate the darn thing

    Thanks
  • Hey there,
    I have a 1994 Honda civic dx with approx 158xx miles on it.(automatic) The car never gave me problems until just recently...Ok here it goes....When ever i start the car it trys hard to start and then about after 7 seconds it starts. Then it starts shaking and vibrating really bad. When i put ti in reverse it vibrates alottt and then it shuts off. When i put the car on drive i have to be driving pretty fast without even stopping a ltlle or the car shuts down. When driving it vibrates and the exhaust vibrates with it aswell with a llittle smoke coming out. When i am going to a stoplight i have to put the car on neutral because if i do not the car will shake really bad and then shut off. :cry: I can never keep the car on D whenever i am stopping like i usteo because it will shut off...everyone said the timing may be off i do not know! :confuse: :sick: Yeah my car needs help! I was just thinking of replacing the motor but people say it is fixable...Please anyone that knows about cars or hondas tell me what you think is going on!!!!!!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    There are way too many reasons why your car could be doing what you're describing to diagnose it over the internet. That said, I'm not hearing any compelling reason to replace the motor, just get it to a competent mechanic and have him/her give it a look-see.

    Keep us posted.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • Anybody know is there any website to show how to replace the headlight assembly step by step?????
  • having problems starting my civic already checked fuel,injecters,changed plugs and wires and the $%^&&$%#$@#@ thing will not start. IT WAS WORKING FINE THEN ONE MORNING IT JUST WOULDNT START CAN SOMEONE GIVE ME ANYTHING TO CHECK OR SOMETHING ALREADY LOST MY JOB CLEAR ACROSS TOWN LOOKING FOR A JOB CLOSE TO HAOME PLEASE HELP.
  • Just a stab in the dark here: mine would not start - it was totally dead. After checking everything, I found that one of the battery cables was coroded. Not where it connected to the battery, but at the end where it conected to the car. I replaced both battery cables and it started right up.
  • I need a little help diagnosing and figuring out where to start. I am mechanically inclined but not a mechanic and can ususally do what needs to be done if I can just figure out what to check and what the problem is.

    My civic started running hot a couple of weeks ago when I stopped moving or got stuck in traffic. It would never actually overheat just run a lot hotter then normal. I also noticed that the heater wasn't blowing hot air. Having had an accord previously with a cooling fan that went bad that is the first thing that I checked. I used a jumper wire to send 12v directly to the fan and it seemed to work just fine. I decided to check the fuses/relay/and cooling fan thermostat but happened to notice that the radiator seemed a little low on fluid so I filled it up and let the car sit in the garage to warm back up and put a meter on the thermostat and relay to see if they were working properly. However, after letting the car run for a half an hour the car would not run hot and the fan never would kick on. I thought that maybe the car had just been low on anti-freeze so I stopped there for a couple of days. A few days later the problem would start again and I would check the level and it would be low and again I would fill and check the heat and it wouldn't overheat. Then it started this week again. I thought that maybe there was a leak somewhere but can't find any radiator fluid on the floor of the garage or when I park at work, yet still the fluid level drops every few days. I don't know if it is related, but it seems to be burning more oil in the past few months than it used to.

    The past couple of days however, every time I started the car or let it idle it started making more of a rumble or missing noise. This morning I didn't think it was going to stay running long enough to pull it out of the garage. It also seemed to lose power when I did get it going. Then when I got stuck in traffic it started running hotter then ever before so I pulled into a parking lot and the car actually overheated. Not wanting to damage it I had it towed back home. So, now I am staring at the engine trying to figure out where to start.

    I know this is a long post, but wanted to give as much info as possible. I would appreciate any advice. I would have had it taken to a mechanic, but the money for that is not available to me right now.

    Thanks in advance.
  • I have been doing a lot of research online about my shift lock problem with Honda's. I've checked the following items in my car and I still can't get my car out of park:

    1) the brake switch (Good All brakes lights works)
    2) the shift-interlock solenoid (Looks good and clean)

    I have removed the center console and look at all of the connectors and solenoid and they all look good. Why can prevent power going to the center console? Any relay that need to be replaced? All of the wires look good and they are connected. I am not getting any power going to shift-interlock solenoid.

    Please help! I've checked all of the fuses and they all look good.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You should suspect a blown head gasket, allowing your coolant to mix with cylinder gasses.

    Have a compression test done on all the cylinders, to see if one (or more) are reading low. If so, you'll need to have some upper engine head work done on it.
  • marylongmarylong Posts: 10
    On Feb 8th, the temp gage started to show the engine was hot. When stopped or moving slow, keeping the heater on full blast would keep the needle in the middle where it belonged. Or, when moving steadily above 35mph, the temp would be good. Then after a couple days, there was no problem - it just stopped misbehaving and all was well. On Feb 28th, it started again and I was able to keep the gage at normal by keeping the car moving. Then over the next couple days, just keeping the car moving was not enough. I have to have the heater going full blast on high heat AND have to have the car moving to get the needle to normal. If I slow or stop, even with the heater going, the needle gets nearly to the red mark - but has not topped out. I checked under the hood and noticed that the fan in front of the radiator was not moving. Will just replacing the fan fix the problem or could there be other things wrong?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You need to have some determine what is wrong, not just replace parts. The fan might be perfectly fine, but the fuse is blown, or the temperature sensor is bad, or a relay is bad, or a connector has corrosion on it.

    It 'could' be that the fan is bad, but better to spend some diagnostic time/money to repair the correct thing.

    Is the radiator full of coolant, as well as the overflow tank? Is the fuse okay? If you put a digital voltmeter across the power feed to the fan when it's hot (and the fan should be running), do you have 13volts? If you connect power directly to the fan, does it go on?
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