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Older Civic Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 01 honda civic, last night i was cold and wanted the heat on. it didn't work so i turned it up higher only to notice that the temp gauge was going up fast. Turned the car off and the temp gauge was okay. Turned the heat on and it went up again. Turned the heat off and it didn't go down either. Is this a connected problem or do i have two different issues?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The way that they could be related, is two different symptoms of a single problem.

    If your radiator coolant was very low, you would not get heat (I assume that is what you mean when you say that the heat didn't work), and without coolant the engine would overheat and show as high on your temperature gauge.
  • I checked the coolant level as you stated, the reservoir is at max, and there is coolant in the radiator. are these signs of a possible water pump or thermostat failure?

    a few more details of the problem:
    - heater was turned on, and only ambient temperature air was vented out. shortly after, temp gauge peaked at max temp. I shut of the car for only a couple minutes and it was back to normal after starting it up again. after a few blocks, i turned the heater back on, and the temp gauge went up quickly after turning the heater back on. heater was then turned off, car shut off and restarted; temp gauge went back to normal. it spiked one more time after a few blocks and went back to normal and remained that way for the rest of the trip home. car hasn't been started since.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When a water pump is going bad, you normally would be hearing it squealing and/or see it leaking.

    Has any work been done on it recently, are you leaving out any other bits of information about this car? Have you had any work done on it in the last couple of months?

    What you can do when the engine is cold, is take off the radiator cap and then start the vehicle and let it idle. Watch the temperature gauge, as well as watch for movement of water in the radiator when the thermostat opens as the engine starts to warm. If the engine overheats without the water starting to flow, suspect thermostat or waterpump.
  • no work done recently other than oil change 2000 miles ago. there are no squealing noises or leaking to my knowledge. i am going to start the engine and give it a test. thanks for the quick reply.
  • did the test, the coolant circulated. i could see the coolant in the radiator until the heat was turned on then it dropped(this could just be a coincidence..i am not sure). The heat was working great now. checked the oil and it was a healthy brown color. the temp gauge was normal. 5 minutes total run time. the question now is should the coolant level be visible at all times in the radiator or is it normal that it dropped? could this just be a fluke? should we let the engine idle longer than five minutes for the test? anything else we should check? thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, there should be coolant filled in the radiator at all times. What actually happens is when it gets hot it expands, and blows the extra fluid out into the recycling tank. When the engine is turned off, the water reduces in volume, and it sucks the overfill back in from the recyling tank.

    I was asking whether you had any work done, as sometimes vehicles can get air locked if the radiator was drained and refilled (the air keeps the water from circulating). If you haven't had any work, then this could not have been a problem.

    However, I would be watching this closely until you figure out exactly what is going on. You might have a problem with a head gasket, with the cylinder compressing and blowing air/exhaust mixture into the coolant (thereby creating an airlock).

    You might want to consider doing a pressure test on each of the cylinders, just to be safe.
  • is it a safe guess that the oil would be cloudy if its a leaky head gasket? is this something that should be taken to a dealership or can any shop do it? any guess for cost on worst case scenario?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Yes, if the oil was cloudy, would suspect head gasket.

    "Any" shop - no. Doesn't need to be a dealer, but should be a shop which does engine tear down work regularly.

    Get a compression test done (or buy a guage and do it yourself), that usually is pretty telling one way or the other.
  • Hi, I'm new here. Looks like some great stuff going on. Hoping someone can help me. I have owned a '94 Civic LX 4-dr since new. The heater temp control lever just broke - it still slides back and forth but no longer seems to be connected inside the dash. It probably connects to a cable that controls the temp. I'd like to pull the heater control panel out of the dash to see what's going on back there - how do I remove the panel? Thanks a bunch in advance, Scott
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,028
    ...if the '98 Civic has an interference or non-interference engine? Thanks.
  • One evening I parked my car and 30 minutes later went to start it and everything was completely dead - nothing worked. I had the car jump-started and drove home (just across the street). I attempted to re start it and it was still completely dead. 24 hours later - it started right up as though nothing was wrong. The battery was only 3 months old, so I took it back to Walmart. On the way there the electrical system cut our for about a half-second, but the car kept running. The mechanic confirmed the battery was completely dead so they replaced it. However, the car still would not start. After about 20 minutes of trying to figure out the problem, it started. I took it to a repair facility telling them the problem and not to turn off the car. Well - of course they turned it off, but it started up right away and caused no problem on the way home. I was told that something is draining the battery, and it was probably the alternator. The honda dealer said it most likely is not the alternator as she had seen only one go bad in 8 years and the problems did not sound like an alternator problem. Does anyone have any suggestions. I have not driven it in a week and can't take it to a mechanic until payday.
  • damo1damo1 Posts: 1
    can anyone help me? i have a honda civic 1.5 lsi 1994. i am having power problems. when accelerating away i have no problems but my top speed is only 75 mph can anyone give me some advice or a solution to this problem? any help would be much appreciated
  • I have had my civic for 9 years without any problems untill now it keeps blowing the immoboliser fuse someone told me that it could be a trapped wire any body got any ideas
  • I am having a similar problem. I have a 1991 civic (manual transmission) and my top speed is 70 mph, but this only happens when the check engine light is on, which happens to be almost all the time (I should mention that if the check engine light does not come on the car drives perfectly fine). The computer reads out the code for the fuel injectors, but that doesn't actually apprear to be the problem because when they are replaced, the problem still exists. My mechanic and I think that there is a problem with the computer, but I don't know if that is a primary or seconday problem.
  • so we just put a new engine in my car its just the stock d15 b7 for my 95 honda civic and we finnaly got everything hooked up it starts and runs perfectly but when i go to let out the clutch and go it doesnt go i had it in first gear and everything and i could let out the clutch all the way and let my foot off of it and it wouldnt accelerate or anything i need all the help i can get please!!!
  • For some reason the clutch plate is not releasing so that the engine engages the transmission. (You put in a new clutch when you had the engine out, I assume.)

    A few possibilities:

    --The clutch plate is binding on the transmission shaft.
    --The clutch slave cylinder is stuck in the extended position.
    --The clutch release lever (actuated by the slave cylinder) is binding.
  • I haven't touched my 1997 Honda Civic for one week and yesterday I couldn't start the engine. well, it turned over a little bit the first time but not good enough to start the engine. so tried again and then it made a little bit noise. Didn't start. the third time was no noise at all. What might be the problem?

    I noticed that when I turn my key to the Start(III), the system charging indicator light was on. This morning one of my friends tried to jump start my car, but we couldn't open the front trunk. It was -15 C outside so I think everything is frozen.

    I've got the car inspected one month ago. Does it mean all the batteries/connections/engine should be ok?

    What would be the cheapest way to get my car back? I am in Calgary and everything is very expensive as you know.

  • Get you car in a garage to thaw out. Then you should be able to open the hood (trunk is in the back). Then, replace the battery and you should be good to go.
  • Is it possible for a not-handy -man to change the battery by myself at all?

    Before that, I will have to figure it out how to get my car to garage. I guess I would have to call a tow but I am not sure how much it will cost me. I will call a garage.

    Thank you again.
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