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Ford F-Series Stalling and No Start Problems

24

Comments

  • it is most likely the EGR Valve - had 2 replaced while under warranty and started doing it again this week - and they are not cheap -$330 w/ hour of labor- keep an eye on your front wheel bearing they do not hold up either
  • my 04 f150 fx4 will fire up but will not stay running. after repeated tries...it has started....idles...but no throughtall response! also has completly shut down while driving. and then same symtoms. have had a wrench like symbol apear on dash when no gas pedal response. then all of a sudden a new try to start.....every thing is normal .problem is increasing latley...don't want to get stranded!
  • hi. i have the same start/ stalling symtoms. did you get yours fixed? what was the problem? i have had it also start... and get no response from the gas pedal. only idle.
  • I have a 1984 Ford F-250 with a 460. Duel tanks.
    I have had the carb rebuilt, full tune-up and it still needs to have the accelerator pumped and takes about 5 minutes to cold start. No starting problems when warmed up.
    After shut off there is a strong fuel smell but no detectable leaks.
    I have heard that this year had problems with the duel tank models.
    Suggestions???
  • Truck was not started for 3 weeks--several nights with temps in the 20's. When attempting to start after the lapse in time --would not start and the check gauge with battery symbol illuminated. I currently have trickle charge going. Will switch to other battery after charging current one.
  • I have the same problem without the smell of gas. I think the problem may be the vacume high idle . My truck is missing the vacume tubes to the dashpot on the carb. You may have two problems. maybe a leaking fuel hose , as I had one of those too.
  • The fuel tank selector valve on my 1984 F-150 had rusted through and sprung a leak and was dripping gas in two spots. A mechanic replaced it with a new selector valve + a fuel line and clamp for 180 dollars. The selector valve cost $96.95 and the fuel line was $20.00. The selector valve for the fuel tanks is under the front door of the driver side and mounted on the frame on the inside and has the fuel lines connected to it. What happen is that I filled the rear tank full of gas and the pressure of the gas from the tank broke the rusted valve and caused a leak. I had to keep a small bucket under the truck for two nights and it leaked about quart of gas every 4 hours. I don't think the previous owners had used the rear tank very much. Check under your truck to see how the valve looks. As long as you can get gas from the front tank you should be good to go. I don't suggest toggling it too much and if you use the rear tank remember too fill it half way or it could spring a leak if its old and rusted and hasn't been in use much. This is possibly where the smell of the gas might be coming from. A mechanic can look at it for free and I hope this story perks you up to a much slept-over part of the truck that doesn't get inspected much.
  • I had the same problem on my 2001 F250 Super Duty. I live in Utah and what a surprise it was to me when my instrument Cluster went out and the gas pedal did not work while I was driving down a mountain. I replaced 3 fuses and then took it to the dealership. Found out one of the wires that was in the engine compartment that went through the firewall and into the fuse box had a nick in it and whenever it got wet it would short out everything. I fixed the wire and have not had the problem since.
  • Came home from work one day with my 1997 Ford F250 diesel. I pulled into my driveway and out of the blue the truck died. I tried several times to start the truck but no luck. For some unknown reason my six port electric fuel pump is not receiving power. I replaced the electronic fuel pump, ECU computer and checked all fuses and relays, so far no luck! I tried looking for the fuel inertia switch but was said that my truck has none. I'am thinking it could be a sensor or a serious ignition problem. If anyone can help me with this problem I will be greatfull!!!
  • I have an 88 diesel f250 with a 7.3ltr NONturbo and I cant get it to even turn the engine over when i go to start it. I had it running fine 3 days later went to start it and it cranked a few times and then wouldint do anything. Now when i try it the ECU (i think thats what it is) clicks once and thats all.Tried jumping it and nothing happens, not any fusses blown, please someone help me out...Thanks
  • rcatrcat Posts: 1
    I have a triton engine in my truck, It sputters only going up an incline, it idols fine,it run good on the straight away. I have an ob2 scanner it said it was map and vaf had low voltage. I replaced it . The trucks runs great as long as you do not go up an incline. HELP!!!!
    rcat
  • I recently bought a 2000 f-250 7.3L diesel. Last night I went to start it and when I turned the ignition to start the entire truck went dead, No lights, no door locks nothing. The day before yesterday I had the truck's electrical system checked and it was fine. Anyone else had this problem and have suggestions on how to solve it?
  • I own a 1995 Ford F-250 power stroke diesel truck. The truck starts fine and run for two or three miles before stalling. The truck will restart but only after it has cooled down-The longer it has cooled down the longer it will run-but again only for two or three miles. The battery light was coming on in the dash so I had the alternator checked. It was declared bad so I replaced it with a new one. The battery light still comes on and the stalling continues. Any ideas as to what is going on?
    J
  • thankfulthankful Posts: 1
    In reference to problems with the 2001 F-250 Ford Truck with the 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel engine; our truck, after several years of dependable service, began to stall and shutdown while driving down the highway. Normally the truck would not start until it set a while, etc. (10, 15, 30 minutes) and sometimes for several hours or more. We noticed that the digital compass reading had been incorrect for several years, and possibly the digital fuel reading average for quite some time. To no good avail, Ford Motor Company replaced our truck’s Cam Shaft Sensor (CSS) under a product recall. Our truck still stalled as before. We replaced the Cam Shaft Sensor at least 2 more times ourselves hoping that this would help, but it continued to shut down. The truck would sometimes stall and shut down 2 or 3 times during a short drive. It would shut down in the city while coming off the interstate highway at idle speed and while driving full speed on a multi lane highway while being followed by heavy traffic causing them to suddenly swerve to another lane to avoid hitting our truck in the rear. The stalling and shutting down was such a problem even to the point of concern for our safety that we began to call on our wonderful Lord and Savior in prayer for direction. Our independent mechanic, who is a former Ford Factory trained mechanic and now an independent SAE Certified Mechanic, trouble shot our vehicle’s “shut down” symptoms and indicated that the next thing that he would do would be to replace the Power Train Control Module (PCM). We did not replace the PCM at that time since our truck temporarily started running without stalling. While we were subsequently researching the PCM’s functions, we learned that the PCM controls a number of other transistors such as the radio, etc. which would typically seem to be unrelated to the functions of strictly PCM. After a while, it appeared that the problem could be the computer (power train control module). We, thankfully found a rebuilt one through the internet for $349 plus shipping. We replaced the computer and also installed another new Ford Cam Shaft Sensor. We allowed the truck to set overnight with batteries charging before trying to start the engine. (Sometimes it seems that the vehicle’s system will lose its memory and that several hours may be needed to restore it.) Now the truck is running great! We appreciate the great advise we got from our mechanic and also ACE along with the much needed rebuilt computer. As always we are so thankful to the Lord for leading us in the right direction. It is such a blessing to have a great dependable truck again. We hope this will help someone else.
  • I have only had the truck for four weeks now and the first week it barely started this problem but has progressively gotten worse. It starts fine, takes off fine and is fine when you give it gas but when you get up to a desired speed and maintain that speed it starts stuttering or sputtering. This takes place only between around 1300 to 1700 RPMs. It basically acts as if you are one gear too high when it does this. The transmission checked out fine but the mechanic said that the following error codes showed up: P0476...Exhaust Pressure Control Valve Perform, P0541...Intake Air Heater Circuit Low, P1211...ICP Pressure Above/Below Desired. I have already had the cam sensor replaced based on a recent recall but that did not fix the problem. Any suggestions.
  • hi i have a 2004 f250 crew cab 4x4 6.0l diesel. i have a problem with the computer i took it to the ford dealer and they reprogramed a computer to the truck, cuz the other one was bad from the roll over it was in but it is like its not sync'd with the truck cuz u get nothing from the obd port when u plug in the tool, it started ran for a min then we stut it off abd nothing but had to jump it across the starter 4 it to do any thing and its not the fuel shut off. please any one with ideas

    my email is quadgod12@hotmail.com and my name is trevor thanx
  • tommy01tommy01 Posts: 1
    Recently I had problems of the truck sometimes bogging down and blowing out black smoke, started to get worse. Changed both fuel filters and air filter, this morning the truck sttarted for about 10 seconds and shut right off, It still turns over, and sometimes starts for about a second. What would cause this?
  • richter5richter5 Posts: 1
    very similar problem with an Superduty bucket truck I am working on. Did you get yours fixed - any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • amnred103amnred103 Posts: 2
    see what happens when you turn overdrive off when it starts happening
  • Did the EGR Valve fix the problem ?
  • Did you get your vehicle fixed? Ours is doing the same thing right now. Chenaged the Camm Sensor, and Injector Sensor. It runs for a while then shuts down. What was the prognosis on yours?
  • duke25duke25 Posts: 1
    My 2005 F-250 6.0 diesel runs very rough when started after sitting over night. I might have to try to start it 5-10 times to get it started then when it will idle, it takes 4-5 minutes for it to clear up then it runs fine. Anyone have any idea what could cause this. I changed the fuel filters. It smokes very bad while trying to get it cranked and while warming up
    Thanks, duke
  • I have recently purchased a 2000 F-250 7.3 diesel and since I got it home it has a problem bogging and then shutting down. I had the cam shaft sensor replaced and it ran great for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. Any suggestions?
  • I have the same problem goin on with my 05 F250 6.0. What was the problem? Lookin for answers on a budget.

    tbrannen
  • When towing our trailer the truck coughs violently and the check engine light goes on. Had to dealer for the tone of $4500 and again towed trailer and the cough violently again. So back into shop, but they can not fine anything wrong. HELP!
  • I have a 2005 F250 and have had numerous issues. One of the issues is that at start up it idles very rough and even stalls until it has run for about 5-10 mins. I am also having problems with it hesitating at 60-80 mph on the roads. It feels as if it has trash in the fuel line or something. Any help with this would be great thank you.
  • romatromat Posts: 1
    My 1990 F250 runs rough and stalls at low rpm when cold. I installed new cap, plugs, rotor and plug wires. Any suggestions?
    Could it be a sensor?
  • Recently, the engine started to stall while driving on two different occasions.... but it would start right up without any hesitation. It has approx 160,000 miles and I have replaced the cam sesor at about 135,000 miles. "Check engine" light did not come on. Other than that, so far the truck starts, idles, and runs fine. It seems like something is going bad soon. Any suggestions? Thank You.
  • My cam sensor went out about a year ago and while looking for the problem on the internet, I was told by someone that if you own a 7.3 you should carry one in the glove box...sometimes they last for 150,000 miles and sometimes they last for 5,000. I don't know if that is true or not (mines still working) but thought I would let you know what I was told. Other than that...not sure unless there's water in the fuel filter.
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