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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems



  • Have you tried to clean the throttle body with Seafoam Yet? I'm going to try this tomorrow on a 1999 convertible sebring with the same problems....we replaced the TPS today and there is a fast idle that can't be slowed unless you put your hand over the air intake...if it's not the idle air sensor it's because it's dirty? So I'll post back after we try that to see what happens.
  • bsmommybsmommy Posts: 2
    That has been done by a mechanic. Today I drove the car and it did not sputter or stall at all BUT the check engine light came back on. I hooked up our code scanner and it displayed "can not link". Luckily, my dad was able to find me a free PCM.. major bonus for me because I was about to sell the car out for parts and take on a car payment. Hopefully the new PCM will take care of the problem. I've been reading through millions of posts and it seems that I have replaced every thing possible. If the PCM doesn't take care of the problem I will just try to sell the car. Someone suggested to me that it may be the distributor or a wiring problem but all of that was replaced new recently. I have all new sensors. UGH this is such a major pain and I am still lost on what it could possibly be. I'm crossing my fingers that it's just a bad PCM.
  • i have a 96 sebring jxi convertable, the car will start and shut down after about 4 seconds of running, the headlights are flashing and a small red light is also flashing on the dash. i think its a security problem anyone have any ideas on how to reset or isolate the problem.

    the car will crank and not start if you do not turn the key totally off, but if you turn the key to off, then the car will start and run for the 4 seconds
  • Try unlocking the car from passenger side door...otherwise go into dealer and just ask the Service Manager
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Do you have and after market alarm system? Sounds like your alarm system ignition cut out is kicking in. Dispable the alarm system and see it that helps
  • no just whatever the car came with
  • I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring. It did not run for about three months because i was out of town. i just got it working now. The car runs fine while it is cold. As soon as the temperature reaches halfway the car will hicup and eventually stall. If i pour cold water into the radiator after a few miuntes it will start. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem. All help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you
    bernardo valdes
  • Check the motor mounts mine was making some weird noises there also
    have a video of the sound here
    well hopefully it wasn't as much of a pain in the @$$ as mine was after some parts modifying and some grinding to the frame there in now and quiet as a church mouse
  • It acts like it is the alternator, however we have replaced it along with the battery, after charging it will run fine for a while then the lights dim, radio shuts off, lights go out and it starts losing power. I am completely stumped. Any one have any ideas?
  • Easy....pull it in and have them tested.............................................!
  • it shows no codes and the battery and alternator test good.
  • Sounds like a bad ground somewhere..
  • Ok. I am really frustrated with this car. April '10 I purchase a 97 Sebring Convert. It was a one owner car who apparently kept in excellent condition and it looked and ran like a dream. Well, for the first yr it was great until the winter hit. I hit a deep pot hole. All was fine for another couple of months, the my passenger side ball joint, arm and axle all broke $660.00. Then it went into limp mode on a constant basis. I would have to pull over, turn the car off and then the restart it in order to continue on my way. Well, my mechanic said that it was some wiring and sensors, had those replaced $380.00. No sooner did I leave the lot that it went into limp mode again. Mechanic said it was the main computer. Had that replaced $580.00. After about 3 weeks of fabulous driving, I crossed an intersection and it was like my car hit a brick wall. Everything died. Mechanic towed it and it took 2 weeks to figure it was the distributer assemby. had it replaced 650.00. After another week of great driving it went into limp mode again. Turns out the PCM is bad now. Needs to be replaced. $550.00. So I shouldn't have any problems at all now except for a tiny oil leak and a small exhaust leak in the engine. Mechanic said I can still drive it with no problems until I can get it fixed at an oil place. Ok I said.
    Well, here I am a month later with a dead car in the driveway. Why? Because as I was driving today my car started to act like it was out of oil and gas. Sputtering, coughing, lerching, jerking and then it would all die. Turn the car on immediately after and it is shaking so much you almost get sick! I had to pray for green lights because the minute I take my foot off the gas it starts to shake and shudder and then stall out. Unless I get a green before it can and I punch it and it slooooowwwly makes it's way up the road and then it lunges forward and runs normal until I take my foot of the gas and then it crawls. I can't seem to get a definitive answer for this.

    Has anyone had this problem?
    Can I fix it myself? As you can see, Im already well over 2000.00 in repairs for this car.
    It has 116K miles on it and it's from Florida.
    This car has been a thorn in my mechanics side for months now.

    What is going on?!!!!!
    Please Help
    Thank you in advance.
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Mitsu V6? or the 4 banger? Can you get the codes? My first guess would be MAF.
  • Whenever im at a stop in traffic my car idles very low. shakes and then cuts off. it will start right back up. Also not getting any gas to the enigine when first taking off. Putting it in the shop Monday but want to give the mechanic some ideas so im not throwing away money. Should i tell him to start with the cranshaft sensor????
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    edited November 2011
    Year of car, engine? Does it do it all the time? recent issue is this after sitting for a bit and does the engine light come one?
    First thing to check is MAF ... MASS AIR FLOW a bad one will cause stalling, rough idle, stalling and the car will usually start right back up but lack power.
    The Mechanic needs to check the engine Code first before anything else. You should check them also so it will give you a general Idea what could be wrong .. Run the car for a bit so its warmed up about 2500 rpm cycle through everything Reverse, drive neural turn AC on off etc..then turn the car off.

    With engine not running turn the ignition key to ON, OFF, ON, OFF and then ON again (do not start the car or crank then engine)

    You must do it with-in 5 seconds the codes will begin to flash.. The light will blink the numbers first digit then pause the second digit.. EXAMPLE..
    The cam sensor will flash pause flash that is code 11.
    Intake Air temp sensor is code 23 it will flash flash pause flash flash flash.. Just examples....
  • Its a 2003. I put it in the shop last Monday. Mechanic just called and said he doesnt know what the problem is and cant fix it. Said he is putting the engine back together and that i can pick it up on Thursday. :confuse:

    I will do the the on and off thing you mentioned when i get it back and maybe that will help me out.

    Also, It only starts stalling out when the car heats up. When i first drive it it will run fine like nothing is wrong with it. After about 15 minutes of driving, the enging will heat up, and im in trouble.. thats when the stalling starts.

    I only owe about $2500 more and ive already put soo much money into fixing this car i dont think i can handle throwing away any more money if whats wrong with it is a MAJOR problem. :sick:

    Should i just try taking it to a dealership and see what they can do for me? Maybe trade it in or something. Im a female and i just dont wanna be screwed out of any more money. CHRYSLER SUCKS!!
    Thanks for the advice.
  • Ok my'97 was doing the same thing.

    What happen was. The Distributor assembly burned out the first time. Had that replaced and it still didn't help all that much so took it back and found out that the 3 spark plug cables under the manifold had corroded and were arching to all the metal around them, including my new distributor effectively burning it out again causing me to stall and cutoff like I wasn't getting any gas. Now that it's all been replaced, she runs fine, not perfect, but no more engine light or stalls.
  • I have the same problem with my 07 2.7L sebring. I brought the car back in 2009 as a 2nd hand. after drove for a few months, the car started stalling when idling or stopping. i ve tried to dismount the battery and restart the car computer, but nothing seemed working at all. i asked staff at Canadian tire staff and he told me that it may have many reasons behind it. too bad that i can't return to the dealer cause the warranty is over. ps, usually my car stall right after i put it into a full stop.
  • jalvejalve Posts: 1
    It sounds like the hydraulic valve lifters. I had mine replaced and the noise went away.
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