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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • I sent a post a couple of weeks ago stating that my new 2004 Convertible would start then immediately stop. The tow truck drive was able to start it and the Ford dealer technician was also able to strt the engine. Upon calling a Chrysler dealer I found that when using an all metal key the car would not stay started. The key with a rubber top has a computer chip in it which allows the engine to run. I had no idea that this theft device even existed. :blush:
    Since then my wife and I love traveling in our Sebring Convertible and are proud to be a member of the Sebring Convertible club. Young and having a ball at 60
    Richard
  • babydollsbabydolls Posts: 5
    My 2004 Sebring sedan is having trouble with the torque convertor, anyone else with problems ?
  • babydollsbabydolls Posts: 5
    Any chrysler owners with defective hub assemblies? I have 52k and it shouldn't be giving me problems this early!!
  • mgilmo1969mgilmo1969 Posts: 5
    My 01 coupe has a ruff idle kind of a buzz. all the belts were removed but its still there. Changed Plugs, wires, cap and rotor, injectors and intake gasket. still does it 60K miles, can feel it in the steering wheel.
  • mgilmo1969mgilmo1969 Posts: 5
    Yes changed right front at 51K the other needs it now atr 61K. Also bad lower ball joints and stabilizer links. You had many engine problems?
  • nolan34nolan34 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Sebring Convertible. Runs like a clock, except since it's been stalling out lately. Stalls sometimes idling at a red light or foot off the gas gliding off a highway exit. Only twice it stalled on the highway and kicked right back on. Most of the time it starts up again right away, sometimes takes an hour. Distributor replaced, same problem. New wires replaced, same problem. Now Chrysler now tells me water pump, timing belt, transmission tuneup and EGC sensor. Sounds to me like they discovered it was the EGC sensor and are trying to beef up the bill with other maintenance items. Anyone else have EGC replaced to fix problem?
  • queenfreakqueenfreak Posts: 1
    I have a 95 sebring LX. Every once and a while the car would hop when in motion and sometimes when I would put it into gear it wouldnt go, I put transmission fluid in and started doing fine. Then it over heated and stopped running, I replaced the water pump and timing belt and it ran great for about 3 months. I was on my way to work and was going 35 with my foot on the gas pedal giving it gas and all of the sudden it died. I pushed it to the side of the road and tried to start it but wouldnt turn over it would crank but thats it. I bought a new battery and still wouldnt turn over. It has been sitting for about 4 months now. Does anyone have any suggestion on why it stoppe in mid motion and wont start again? Please Help
  • msminkamsminka Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    I just bought a 97 sebring in March and already i am soo frustrated!!! I'm a student so taking care of this car has become the biggest headache. I was driving one day, got to a light and the car simply died on me. It wouldn't start after that. It would crank but not turn over. A driver pulled up next to me and told me to press on the gas and i did and it started.

    SInce then its been doing the same thing (starting problem) occasionally. A couple days ago it died on me again while driving. Same thing-pumped gas pedal it started. I decided to tow it to the shop since this seemed like a problem that was not going away. Mechanic told me it was gas filter. Changed that and i went on my merry way.

    Today i wake up to go to work and again it will not start. It cranks but no turnover. The mechanic seems to have no clue what is wrong and i just can't afford another "false fix". Please please please, if you've had this same problem and successfully fixed it let me know, so i can give these people some idea of what might be going on.. I'm at my wits end right now.... Thank for the replies in advance.
  • TAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALER, CAUSE MY CHRYSLER BLOW UP YESTERDAY CAUSE OF A FUEL RAIL LEAK, WHICH CAUSES YOUR CAR NOT TO START.......DON'T BYE ANOTHER STARTER, DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY
  • kbarthkbarth Posts: 5
    The MAP SENSOR
  • I have a 97 Sebring Convertible. My dad is a mechanic and this thing has driven him nuts. It did same thing yours was doing. It would sputter and rpm would drop and come back and then drop again.. changed 2 distributors on it before we found out.. it is the distributor plug.. apparently the locking clip breaks and it wiggles out.. so makes it to where only a few cyclinders are firing. Check that big plug into the distributor. We found one on another 2.5 engine at junk yard and now it runs like a champ!
    Chris in Georgia
  • billg13billg13 Posts: 4
    Chris, I am trying to find out if my problem is the same as yours. I have a 99 Sebring LXI convertable. I will be driving aroun 20-40 MPH and the engine kind of stalls. It seem to be running on 2-3 cylinders. I stopped the car and tried pumping the gas and nothing happens. I finllay shut the car off. trid to start it and the same sound, like it is trying to start on 2 cylinders. I left if off for about a minute and it starts like nothing is wrong. This happened 3 times in the past week. Does this sound like the same problem.
  • riiickriiick Posts: 1
    Been reading about problems folks have been having.

    My other reading at Allpar.com says many/most problems are fairly cheap sensors, especially TPS (throttle position sensor) Crankshaft position sensor, and Camshaft position sensor, and lastly (?) whatever Chrysler calls the speed sensor that tells the computer that car is *moving*.

    OH... and on older cars the Coil, and sparkplug wires.

    A lot of these apparently won't throw a code, but you can check many with a multimeter.

    Lots of problems are almost a joke - stupid corroded connections, and loose connections, things that are cured with umpty hours of thinking *where* the problem might lie, and 2 minutes cleaning the connector up.

    There are tons of resources on the WWW to help -- don't throw up your hands and empty you wallet to the Dealer - INSTEAD - do your Research!

    TRY (for starters) Click HERE
    http://www.allpar.com/forums/

    Do a Google search for say: sebring starting problems

    People have gone thru this crud before, answers are there, but you might have to devote several hours to finding them .... or luck out 1st try. GOOD LUCK!!
  • gaffneygaffney Posts: 1
    My '97 Chrysler broke down just driving down the road. No automobile repair company has been able to figure out what is wrong. I have had the cam sensor changed, the distributor replaced and the car will run for about 10 minutes and then just die. No diagnostic tests is giving any codes or results.
    The car was in acceleration mode to pass another car when the car felt like the engine started chugging and like the car wasn't getting any gas. The tank was full. The car will turn but will not fire and crank-then we replaced distributor. Now it won't stay cranked and running.
    HELP!!!
  • I have a 98 and it began doing the same thing. The dealership replaced the fuel injection system and some other things. It continued to stall at red lights maybe four times in six months and would jerk on the highway like gears weren't shifting. During a vacation I left it at the garage and someone actually caught it stalling. They described it as a problem with the "modules." They replaced the distributor and made a few other tune ups. Now it has stalled out at least twice a day since I got back and the shop doesn't seem to have any idea, they just want to expirement. Did you ever solve your problem?
  • Yes, the right front hub assemblys are notorious for failing, I've had a new replacement go bad almost immediately, then the next replacement is fine. It makes a grinding type noise like brake sticking to rotor, or road type noise. Very annoying I know. Go for the higher priced, better quality hub and you should be good to go.
    Mark
  • I had a similar problem where my '00 convertible would just stall out w/o warning. I did some research on this site; someone replaced their crank shaft sensor and it worked for them, and I'm happy to say it's worked for me--it's been over six months now and no problems. The guys @ my garage tested the sensor and it didn't show a problem, but I told them to replace it anyway. If I recall correctly it's about a $300 job (LA prices). Hopefully it will work for you--good luck.
  • One mechanic I asked to look at a Sebring 2002 I was interested in, said, "If it has a 2.7 engine, I won't even look at it." Of course it did as has all the others I have looked at.

    He said his aunt took perfect care of her car and one day at a red light it blew up. The motor had to be replaced because the water lines run through the motor and if they begin to leak, well it's ruined. Replacement was more than $4000.

    My mechanic says that can be changed out. He just doesn't like Chrysler products.

    I'm willing to buy one if I can make sure that change has been made. Does anyone else know of this problem and the remedy? How can I tell if it has been done already?
  • I have a 97 sebring coupe it turns off when I am driving it, I was wondering if anyone else was having that problem too? someone told me that it was coil pack and then they told me that it was the distributor and then the fuel pump. I really need some help figuring it out the problem.
  • I have a 1999 sebring i just replaced a bad spark plug at the store when i got home i disconnected the battery to reset the check engine light now the car wont start it just flashes the brake light when i try to turn it over it doesnt even seem like it is trying to start the power to the car seems fine but the radio doesnt turn on either i have tried everything i can think of does anyone know what this could be please help!!!!

    Thanks!!!
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