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Chrysler Sebring Starting and Stalling Problems

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  • 20A Fuse burns out when key is turned to start position. The vehicle has a grey key, a new battery
  • 1. ~Yes, my 06' Chrysler Sebring HAS been flooded/excessive moisture... It turned out to be something having to do with the air conditioner. The heater coil was going out and a couple other issues that I can't recall. Water/fluid would leak into my car all the way to the back seat.
    REPAIRS- Had to take out my entire dashboard...cost about $2,000 Time-72hrs

    2. ~Car was leaking all of my coolant. Had to replace the thermostat housing and gasket... Cost- $115 Time ~had to wait 3 weeks for the part to come in...

    3. ~Car would just shut down after engine would start and stall...
    Never really got fixed, mechanic couldn't find anything wrong and eventually the problem stopped...

    4. ~Now my heater does not work unless I'm on the "gas" meaning driving...if I'm sitting still it immediately switches to cold air again, weird, squeaky sound coming from under my dash...thinks its the fan and it may be going out...

    5. ~Now I'm experiencing the "car won't start" that people are discussing above. My battery is good, put the key in and turn it nothing happens. So sound, engine doesn't turn over, nothing...complete silence. Turn the key to the "on position and radio does not come on...I now know the radio and starter share a fuse. Really!?? stupid if you ask me...

    ***If you have this car and are able, GET RID OF IT! Chrysler needs to help those of us that had no clue about the recall situation, or weren't having problems during that time period, but are experiencing EVERYTHING now...just makes no sense to me...
  • I have a 2002 Chrysler Seebring Limited convertible and just replaced my starter. When I drive my car and it gets warm and I turn the car off, I can't restart it. If I wait about 25-30 minutes when the car cools off, it starts back up again.
  • Be more specific...does it not crank...or just not start...??
  • cmdentcmdent Posts: 1
    I had my 2008 Sebring in to the dealer yesterday, they say it needs an update and this is a known problem. I asked iif t was a recall, no it is not and would cost about $184.00. This is a potential accident waiting to happen. I was at a stop light when it decided to lunge forward into the intersection. Calling Chrysler
  • Recently i have purchased a 09 chrysler conv. sebring. The car was perfect the first month of sale (lol) then beginning in feb. of this year the vehicle has a bouncing feeling when u are in traffic. When you slightly take your foot off the brake the car starts shimming and actually makes u sick. We brought it back to the dealer and after the third time trying to fix this problem we were told that it is a problem in the transmission i.e. (supposedly a fuel problem). Now the dealer says there is nothing i can do for this and that the lemon law doesnt apply to the purchase of this vehicle. My question is if the dealer and the manufacturer are aware of this and it was not told to us at sale isnt there something the consumer can do but wait for a possible fix to this problem. We were actually told by the dealer that maybe in a month or two a solution may come. I really do need suggestions or comments on this and appreciate your time in this matter.
  • tradwinztradwinz Posts: 2
    Purchased used. Started stalling. Reading discussions on the net. I am not a mechanic but a novice with only basic tools. I've concluded the following:
    1999 Sebring convertible was stalling. Would drive and the car would just lose power and stall. No engine lights or codes light up. Plugged in a computer at AutoZone and nothing.

    First these cars make it difficult to changed the spark plugs and tune up. 3 of the plugs are under a manifold. So I am concluding nobody changed plugs in a long time.

    I changed the plugs and wire set Cost $60.

    Many posts about these cars stalling. But most refer to changing the crankshaft sensor and cleaning the EGR. Also there is mention of the MAP sensor and Pugs and distributor.

    I changed plugs and wire set. $60 normal maintenace and I was right my plugs were bad.

    Installed MAP sensor Very easy fix... $50 it was a little dirty
    Cleaned the PCV very dirty easy fix

    Installed new crankshaft senor $52 a little difficult. I was not able to work under the car. So with the air intake already removed and I removed a part(don;t know what part it was but it has 2 nuts holding it on at the strut wall, something to do with starter I think) from the drivers side strut had 2 nuts only. I was able to get my hands underneath to reach the 1 bolt for the crankshaft sensor. Sensor was difficult to remove seemed frozen. Taking care not to break it I used a pry bar set and needle nose vise grips and was able to push the senor out by tapping lightly with a hammer using some leverage of the visegrips and the pry bar. The plug snaps in a hole just able the sensor. I just pulled the snap out and was able to easily unplug the sensor in full sight. New sensor just fell into it's hole I bolted plugged the senor in and pushed the snap into place.

    Installed a new EGR. $56. Mine was dirty and the diaphragm made a squeaking noise . Probably could have cleaned and wd40'd but I installed new. Removal was not bad. A few bolts and it came out easily. Had to remove a transmission control. It was 3 screws and the bolt that held the wires onto the assembly. Careful not to bend or break any of the wire connections on this wireset. Once this transmission control was out you can get to every part of the EGR easily.

    The whole job took me about 7 hours of working time and about hour on the internet Google and reading. I am not a mechanic and had to read and figure things out on my own. But so far the fix has worked.

    This is what I spent.
    MAP Sensor $46
    Plugs and wire set $58
    Crankshaft Sensor $52
    EGR $49
    Pry bar set Advanced auto $20
    Needle nose vise grips $10
    a couple of slim Jims $ 3
    Bottled water $.50

    TOTAL $238.50

    The way I figured I saved 4-5 hours of labor cost of a mechanic at $95 per hour. and I learned something. The tune up alone was the most difficult. All the bolts and the back bolts were the hardest to get to. Have no idea what a mechanic would charge for a tune up.

    Driven car about 125 miles so far and no problems. What was the cause? I have no idea. But my guess was the crankshaft sensor and the EGR. The EGR was very dirty and the Crankshaft sensor was also badly damaged. Although banging it with a hammer didn't help much. But the sensor inside the hole was really bad.

    I am now going to flush the crankcase with motor flush and install new synthetic oil since I read these cars have a tenancy for sludge buildup. Synthetic oil apparently does not build up as easily. I am also going to change the fuel filter but I will let a professional do that since I saved money already.

    Any other ideas for 4 me and others please feel free to reply.

    Thanks everyone for posting you were an inspiration and big help to me in getting this job done.

    Oh yes I saved money at Advanced Auto using online coupons. My savings was approx $27 avg saving was 15%.
  • Hi.

    Well, I finally had fixed my stalling issue. There are two possible things that might be wrong. One is the Computer Module might be bad. I didn't replace that. What I did replace was the Thermostat sensor. And I made my idle a little bit higher. Me and my buddy couldn't figure it out. I had enough when I was driving 70 mph on the fast lane. Then the car just stalled. I was like "WTF" So i took it to a mechanic. One those cheap one in a slum area. They do good jobs cause they need the money. Try replacing all sensors. Its cheaper if you find them in a junk yard. If you don't have the book, get one. Helps a lot.
  • Did you ever get this resolved? I have the same problem. I have gone through three batteries since Nov 2010. I Drive it every once in awhile. I thing it may be the Alternator.
  • bringingitbringingit Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 sebring convertible JXI w/ 2.5l v-6. Had the problem of no start which is common to the internet posts on this make car. Ended up replacing the: crank postioning sensor, distributor (which includes the cam sensor and coil as they are built in the distributor), upstream 02 sensor, catalytic convertor, fuel filter, egr valve, map sensor, throttle positioning sensor, engine coolant sensor, air intake temp sensor, and battery! Still had a problem of stalling after the car started. Because of the multiple misfires and the air/ fuel mixture being rich (cause of converter failure), there was a lot of carbon build-up in the intake plenum and upper cylenders which affected the vacuum flow for the map and air intake temperature sensors to operate correctly. There were NO CODES that appeared other than "multiple missfires" on all 6 cylinders. The fuel filter waschanged as it was origonal (car now has 188,000 miles) I was ready to change fuel pump, but did a pressure test and yielded a steady 51 lbs. of pressure which is spec. Ultimately carbon and sludge became my issue to "smooth out" the stalling. Due to the electro (signals to ecm)-mechanical (vacuum) configuration of the sensors, carbon build-up restricted the map, egr and air intake sensor to produce a "valid" signal to the ecm which caused the car to run like something from hell. I read about Seafoam and injected it into the brake booster vacuum line, crakcase, and gas tank per intructions on can. Within 30 minutes, the car was running like there was never a problem. This was an expensive "experience" but I believe it will outlast the relationship I plan on having with the car.
    Good Luck!
  • tradwinztradwinz Posts: 2
    If you are going thru batteries then it is almost assured your alternator.
    There are quick tests and easy too, you can do to see if it is your alternator.
  • ClairesClaires Chicago areaPosts: 978
    Thanks for walking us through that, tradwinz!

    ClaireS, Host
    Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles

    MODERATOR
    Need help getting around? claires@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • fordnut460fordnut460 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    Crusing at 70 it shut off no warning. Check engin light on. Turns over no spark. Can hear fuel pump run an got pressure at rail. Code for cam sensor came up. Replaced crank an cam sensor. Clearly d code. Now i turn key on an hit starter. Turns over still no spark an cam snsor code comes back. Timing belt is there an fine. Pleases help me. This is my only car. I did love it till now. :confuse:
  • dano853dano853 Posts: 17
    edited July 2011
    I've been having variations of this problem for almost a year. Recent repairs include: Honest mechanic replaced sensor (crank or camshaft, cant remember which) R&R'd fuel pump and filter; and cleaned tank and lines. Now he is leaning towards the computer since its not revealing any useable codes, although what i read here indicates thats not uncommon. I replaced only the front plugs and wires... dreading pulling the intake for the back 3 on this 2.5 ltr. The above fixes improved relative performance, but have not eliminated the core symptoms. After I had the car for only a few weeks it started stalling after first daily start. It would also lose power/ not respond to acceleration from a stop unless I coaxed the gas pedal gently. If i put the car in neutral , accelerator would respond almost immediately, and sometimes I could get the rpms up in gear with my foot on the brake. This would be worse in wet weather, but would lessen once the car reached running temp. On hot dry days it was only an occasional nuisance, and after my initial trip it would rarely occur at all til I started it the next day.
    But now its raining every day and has gotten intolerable ...and dangerous. It almost always starts fine even right after one of these stalls.
    Sometimes I can coax only marginal acceleration from the pedal, and as soon as i get up to 30 or 40 it may just lose power, then diesel or stall, completely unresponsive to the gas pedal. Normal acceleration from a standing stop, will almost always cause a loss of power. And yet if it catches power under heavy acceleration, I'm good to go. Neither of these are feasible practices for consistent driving.

    If I do manage to get it up past 45, the odds of stalling decrease and it only misses intermittently. It had not given me any problems on the highway... but i wouldnt even attempt that now.

    Other than that vague rpm/torque correlation, there seems to be little rhyme or reason which leads me to think there may be multiple causes with overlapping symptoms.
    Any help is appreciated and I will post the successful fix..... unless i put a bullet in it first.
  • chettimarellichettimarelli Posts: 16
    edited July 2011
    I had a broken flywheel/flexplate which constantly shifted, changing timing contanstly....mostly ran retarded with very little power
  • Hey! Glad I found you guys. This car is driving me crazy! It idles a little rough sometimes not all the time. It started stalling. At first just stalled at stop sign or red light. Now stalls when you go to slow down for a stop while car is still in motion. I have heard all kinds of theories. fuel pump or filter, crank sensor, spark plugs... has anyone else had a similar problem. the car still runs, starts the first time every morning,and even starts right back up after it stalls. just dont want to waste a bunch of money replacing parts to eventually fix the problem after $800 worth of parts.
  • bsmommybsmommy Posts: 2
    Hey guys & gals-

    I have a 97 Sebring Coupe, V6 2.5L. In March of this year I had the engine replaced because one of the Cams went on the other. Replacement was the cheaper option. My bad decision was going to a shop recommended by a relative. The work they did was below average and I left the place with a car that stalled out. My dad took it into his work and a guy from Chrysler worked on it. There were hoses that weren't hooked up, etc. Got the car back and it started stalling out when coming from a stop. I took it to another shop today. They looked it over and noticed that the fuel injectors were not sealing to the engine. Fixed that and got a new starter, replaced TPS. Car still stalls out when coming from a stop. I can prevent it from stalling by taking my foot off the gas BUT it's still a dangerous situation because I have 2 babies I have to drive around. Guy at shop thinks it could be the PCM. I am going to look for another tomorrow and pop it on. Anyone have any ideas of what else it could be? I am at a loss and so are the shops I take it too. Already have put 2k into it since March of this year. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks!
  • I'm having this similar problem with my brother's 1999 sebring convertible...I've been doing a lot of research on this, and we are trying to replace the sensors, today he tried replacing the Throttle Position sensor and there was an issue with idling too fast, so reading all the other posts on here we are going to see if it's the idle air control, and use the seafoam cleaner next. It may be too much carbon buildup in the throttle body or air intake and other people said they would try the Seafoam spray, first to clean everything. Just some information I collected from reading countless posts on the computer.
  • Have you tried to clean the throttle body with Seafoam Yet? I'm going to try this tomorrow on a 1999 convertible sebring with the same problems....we replaced the TPS today and there is a fast idle that can't be slowed unless you put your hand over the air intake...if it's not the idle air sensor it's because it's dirty? So I'll post back after we try that to see what happens.
  • bsmommybsmommy Posts: 2
    That has been done by a mechanic. Today I drove the car and it did not sputter or stall at all BUT the check engine light came back on. I hooked up our code scanner and it displayed "can not link". Luckily, my dad was able to find me a free PCM.. major bonus for me because I was about to sell the car out for parts and take on a car payment. Hopefully the new PCM will take care of the problem. I've been reading through millions of posts and it seems that I have replaced every thing possible. If the PCM doesn't take care of the problem I will just try to sell the car. Someone suggested to me that it may be the distributor or a wiring problem but all of that was replaced new recently. I have all new sensors. UGH this is such a major pain and I am still lost on what it could possibly be. I'm crossing my fingers that it's just a bad PCM.
  • i have a 96 sebring jxi convertable, the car will start and shut down after about 4 seconds of running, the headlights are flashing and a small red light is also flashing on the dash. i think its a security problem anyone have any ideas on how to reset or isolate the problem.

    the car will crank and not start if you do not turn the key totally off, but if you turn the key to off, then the car will start and run for the 4 seconds
  • Try unlocking the car from passenger side door...otherwise go into dealer and just ask the Service Manager
  • rbenderrbender Posts: 30
    Do you have and after market alarm system? Sounds like your alarm system ignition cut out is kicking in. Dispable the alarm system and see it that helps
  • no just whatever the car came with
  • I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring. It did not run for about three months because i was out of town. i just got it working now. The car runs fine while it is cold. As soon as the temperature reaches halfway the car will hicup and eventually stall. If i pour cold water into the radiator after a few miuntes it will start. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem. All help and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

    Thank you
    bernardo valdes
  • Check the motor mounts mine was making some weird noises there also
    have a video of the sound here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfN8HgU5Ero
    well hopefully it wasn't as much of a pain in the @$$ as mine was after some parts modifying and some grinding to the frame there in now and quiet as a church mouse
  • It acts like it is the alternator, however we have replaced it along with the battery, after charging it will run fine for a while then the lights dim, radio shuts off, lights go out and it starts losing power. I am completely stumped. Any one have any ideas?
  • Easy....pull it in and have them tested.............................................!
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