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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • 510akcali510akcali Member Posts: 2
    edited August 2012
    amzn sorry to hear about your car. Ally won't do anything about your vehicle, it's not a lemon unless the same problem happens four times. Lithia is a great company they will take care of it for you. I would use Jeep roadside because it's free and get it towed to the dealer you bought it to take care of it for you. It's an amazing vehicle and I can't wait to get one.

    Can you post the details about your lease. The Cap cost, Residual, Money Factor, Term, Total Down, and Payment.

    Thanks
  • amznamzn Member Posts: 6
    edited August 2012
    Thanks 510akcali for your response. here are the details:
    Cap cost: $37K (excluding the GMAC acquisition and admin fee)
    Residual: $26.3K
    Term: 24 months for 12K miles per year
    Down: $3K
    Payment: $410

    The dealer showed me the money factor but I couldn't remember. At the end of the day, it really depends on the price as if you are buying the Jeep. I built an Excel model, similar to the mortgage calc when you buy a house, and figured out that I would pay ~$3K extra in terms of interest, vs. buying the Jeep now with cash. I just like driving new cars so I would look at it as the cost of driving new cars. What sucks is that Ally bank will add $2500 to the residual value if you buy the car at the end of the lease. To me, it just means that probably I wouldn't buy the car when the lease ends.

    For the issue I mentioned, I had the dealer checked the car but they couldn't replicate the issue. I'll just keep an eye on it and bring it back to them if necessary. I like the design and the Jeep brand. I hate the quality/reliability of the Chrysler cars though. But I like Jeep more than other brands such as Toyota, Honda, etc. Chances are that in 2 years I will buy or lease another Jeep Grand Cherokee, especially when the diesel version will be available soon.

    By the way, you sounded like a Lithia employee :). I'd say a 20-30% of the folks at the dealer just suck: no credibility, very rude, and cheap. The sales person I dealt with was great though. He had lots of experiences and was very polite and could talk to the point. Also the service director was good when I brought up the issue to her. Other folks were just in-experienced, and they were treating you like low-end customers, without any understanding that you are throwing $30-$40K to buy one of the most expensive cars they are selling. This is not surprising in that some deck sales persons are only making $10/hour, the minimum wage, with a high school diploma only. During some conversation I had to yell at / remind them that I can escalate along their reporting chain for some issues that I wasn't happy with - they are employee of the Lithia company, they should understand that any escalation might impact their career and employment with Lithia.
  • beachbumtroy1beachbumtroy1 Member Posts: 1
    hey guys my dad just bought a 96 grand cherokee 4wd,automatic 4.0 motor and 2 daz later when u put in gear its seems to spin the rpm`s raise but doesnt shift into 2nd,now also when he bought it the vic(vehicle info center) was flashing and by the time he got home was completely blank and had burnt up,but he still drove it for 2 daz like that,well on my way home to take out the vic.....it stated the shifting problem,my question is.......does the truck need the vic to run and shift correctly or is it another problem all together? i dont mind replacing the vic as i have already taken it out,but dont want to buy another if the tranny is bad also? trans fluid is red and doesnt smell bad to me,and when u first start up it runs and shifts fine then after a few minutes it starts slippin? p.s ive tried it in 4wd low,high and 2wd drive they all work but it still slips in any of them,ive tried to include how its acting but if u need more info to help just ask,any clues or directions to head are appreciated thnx bb
  • lee145lee145 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. It is a shudder coming from the tranny and/or the torque converter. It gets worse every month. This would have been the best 4x4 on the market if they would have fixed it. They can't fix this with out redesigning the tranny and tourque converter. The only answer is to trade it and never buy any Chrysler product again.

    It's time to close the doors on this company.
  • sofrustrated1sofrustrated1 Member Posts: 2
    I bought a Chrysler-certified used 2007 Cherokee Laredo with 18,000 miles and have had nothing but headaches. Without warning, it just won't start one day and flashes the message "transmission over temp." I have been stranded 12 times, towed six times, and two separate Chrysler dealerships have attempted to fix it. The only thing found to be wrong is the starter is bad each time. I have had 4 brand-new starters put in in barely over 13 months: June, February, April, and August 1st. "Customer Service" at corporate headquarters will do absolutely nothing and conduct themselves in a completely ridiculous manner. They suggested, for the FOURTH time, that it must be fixed now that I've had to put in yet another starter. This is a band-aid fix at best and is sheer insanity to think that repeatedly doing the same thing will result in a different outcome. Their lack of concern or assistance and waste of customer's time has certainly lost them this consumer as a customer.
  • tiredofitinaztiredofitinaz Member Posts: 8
    Check into something called the Magnsuson-Moss Warrenty Act and get an attorney. I have tried to get resolution to our problems with our 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland Diesel that has been in the shop on average once every 6 months since we bought it new in 2007. We should have returned it but we had the "platinum warrenty." until it expired last year. Big mistake! The last problem turned out to be an oil cooler gone bad-cost $2000.00 and 9 weeks. Ended up being fixed by our Mercedes mechanic. He gave us a reduced rate because he worked on it on the side. Chrysler Cares has been incredibly non-responsive and also made innapropriate comments to me. IE, you can either pay to have it fixed at the dealer or take it somewhere else where it will probably be cheaper and then refusing to respond to my emails after that. The latest issue just last week was that it just wouldn't start. Lights came on, all electrical worked but it wouldn't start. No warning at all. We had it towed and are now trying to find a mechanic to replace the starter because it is in a nearly inaccesible location for a do-it-yourselfer. Your post has made me nervous that it might not be the problem now. The alternator and several computer modules have already been replaced. I've been meaning to pursue the Magnsuson-Moss Warrenty Act , it was recommended to me by someone in the car industry since Chrysler has refused to take responsibility. I've also been told Chrysler will not do anything unless an attorney gets involved. Unfortunately we are upside down on the Jeep and we would never saddle some unsupecting private buyer with this dangerous vehicle. Good luck and keep us updated!
  • tiredofitinaztiredofitinaz Member Posts: 8
    Check out this link. It was just sent it to me. Seems some have found a solution with a ground wire or something or another? The shifting from park to neutral thing did not work for us, we do not have the clicking noise but we haven't tried this ground idea yet.

    http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/2008-jk-starting-problems-1055410/index2.html-
  • sobrien1sobrien1 Member Posts: 2
    I posted this thread, and would like to update what happened. After leaving the problem for some months I finally decided to get the problem fixed.

    After two garages and £300, I ended up taking the car to a gear box specialist. They identified the error code and then had a second opinion before replacing the gov sensor. This has done the job.

    The problem is now fixed and cost £700. Every one wanted to replace the gearbox, including the main dealer.

    My Advice find a gearbox/auto transmission specialist not a main dealer.

    Regards

    Steve
  • sofrustrated1sofrustrated1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info and I totally agree with your comment about being mistreated by Customer Care at Jeep--at one point, the service agent just snapped at me on the phone, saying "What are you even expecting? What do you want?" when I kept pushing for some kind of a response. I will check into the link you sent about grounding the battery better, but it is frustrating that this should even be done, especially because the Jeep already has two grounds that the dealership assured me were in perfect working order. I will continue to post if I find out anything new; best of luck to you.
  • deuceydeucey Member Posts: 1
    Did that end up fixing the problem for you? Can you tell me that after the hard shift and the noise, did it ever trigger the check engine light to come on? I think I'm having a very similiar issue with my 2006 Grand Cherokee, and I've had it in the shop twice now without any luck. Two differnet transmission sensors have been replaced and the check engine light just came back on. The dealership has offiicially had the car more than I have in the past three weeks.
  • sfjeepgc2011sfjeepgc2011 Member Posts: 1
    My 2011 Grand Cherokee Limited with V6 also has the lurching forward while in park problem. It is intermittent and I have been unable to reproduce it at the dealer.
  • brn2skifstbrn2skifst Member Posts: 4
    My 2012 hemi GC overland is doing the shudder thing when trying to accelerate also. This motor should easily pull up a hill in 6th or 5th but when I give it a little gas it feels like it shudders and won't accelerate unless I really give it gas. At highway speeds when I try to over-take another vehicle, very little gas should be necessary but I have to move the accelerator a lot and it shudders before it goes. There is no throttle response at all. This is not acceptable for a vehicle with this much torque. Dealer reflashed on first trip there last Friday. Took it back today, 9/4 and their test equipment can't find anything. Service manager will not acknowledge the problem but I am supposed to get a callback tomorrow. Tested another 5.7 and it does not feel like this.
  • sigguysigguy Member Posts: 3
    edited September 2012
    Hey David, I have a 2004 Overland Limited edition with the same problem. It will drive fine and then randomly the RPM will go high then catch itself and of course turn on the check engine light. I went to one place and they said my computer is going bad and I need to replace it. Thats about the only thing I can think to do. But I saw your post about the ground wire from the case to the battery. Exactly how would I do that. If that works great, if not looks like im ganna "try" buying a new PCM and see if that will fix it and get the dang check engine light to turn off.

    Oh and btw mine is not the hemi, its the V8 4.7
  • bigwhite60bigwhite60 Member Posts: 1
    how do u test the solenoids?
  • sophia8sophia8 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Jeep Grand Cherokee. Whenever it's cold out the transmission usually gets stuck whether going up hill when stopped then rolls back until you rev the gas up to catch. I have the same problem every winter. Even backing out when it's cold out it will get stuck until you rev the gas up hard. I've had the RPM reset as it used to want to stall out on me last year and I believe the teansmission fluid was changed last year to no avail. Can someone pls shed some light. Thank you
  • michaels_dadmichaels_dad Member Posts: 8
    A few weeks ago I was driving down the highway at around 70mph, and the car shuddered. I actually thought I’d run over something in the road, but there was nothing there. A few minutes later, it happened again, coming out of a speed zone. In the next speed zone, while slowing down, I noticed the car slowing down more quickly than normal, as if I were in a lower gear. I then realized the engine rpm was about 1k higher than normal. Pushing the Overdrive button had no effect on anything. I pulled over and shifted into Park and then back to Drive. When starting out, it felt like I had no power, almost as if the transmission were slipping, but the engine wasn’t revving high like it should when slipping. I parked the car upon arrival at our destination, and then test drove it a bit later, and it was fine, and pressing the OD button had a normal effect on the engine/tranny. On the drive home, it shuddered again, twice, in quick succession, but drove fine the rest of the way home, just at higher rpm (3200rpm at 70mph, or 2700 at 60). Over the course of the following few weeks, it happened intermittently, and nothing environmental seems to affect it. It happens when it is cool, when it is hot, when it is dry, and when it is wet. Sometimes it will happen when I’m driving down the road, and sometimes it will happen from a dead start, without the shuddering. It seems as though I’ve lost the highest gear or two. Sometimes it will only shudder once, and the engine rpm is then higher, but not as high as when it shudders twice. I have found that when it happens, I can pull over immediately, shift to park, turn the car off, start it again immediately, and it is fine. This seems to indicate to me that it is something electronic that is not allowing the transmission to shift properly, or causes it to lose its ability to remain in the highest gear or two. Of course, I’ve checked the fluid and it is fine, not burnt smelling, and filled to the proper level.

    Any suggestions? I’ve already talked to one shop, and they didn’t seem to know exactly what it could be, but immediately went to the option of replacing the tranny…something I’d like to avoid if this can be fixed by replacing a part. I’ve done a little reading, and one possibility seems to be the Governor Pressure Sensor. Another possibility might be the TCM?
  • sigguysigguy Member Posts: 3
    edited September 2012
    By no means am I a expert, and HATE going to body shoppes because they LOVE to tell you to put in a new Trany, and good bye $$$. I went to Good year and paid for them to do a inspection (which cost $30-70) depending on specials etc. They went over the whole car (TRYING) to find what was wrong so they could have a reason for me to do business with them. At the end they found nothing wrong with the engine. (so they didnt charge me) so I was able to rule that out. My next step was to go and have the computer codes checked. Turned out my PCM (which depending on model is where the TCM is) was going out which was why my transmission hated me. . They tried resetting it, but would error out again. So my end result (for my issues with transmission) was to order a new PCM. Find a good retailer that backs their work and can get it done for around $200. and you can install it yourself.

    Again I am no expert, but going both of those routes helps identify the problem to know where to start without having to go to the dealership and take out a loan to get it fixed :)
  • cpc1cpc1 Member Posts: 6
    I maybe interested in the new grand cherokee for 2014, I know the 2013 model year will be a short one. Anyway does anyone know how much this new 8 speed tranny will improve gas milage. Also is it a durable tranny. I do know the deisel will also be available next year as a 2014 model, both will be available in 2013 probably late spring early summer. I am also considering the 4runner, any thoughs would be appreciated.
  • tiredofitinaztiredofitinaz Member Posts: 8
    We just paid off a non-running defective 2007 WK Overland 3.0 CRD Diesel so we could buy another running vehicle. (in our case, a 2012 Nissan Crew Cab 4x4. Is it a downgrade, yes, but we didn't have much choice after losing approx. 61K on the 2007 Jeep and $5000.00 on the 2006 Liberty.

    I would stay away from any Chrysler product. We gave Jeep a second chance after our first lemon, a 2006 Liberty Diesel. Chrysler is the absolute worst company to work with when you have a defective product. As much as we loved the diesels when they were running for their increased gas mileage, power and handling, I would not wish the hell we have gone through on any prospective buyer.

    We still have the 2007 JGK. There are ethical issues involved with selling it to a private seller because of all the past/current problems and when we tried to trade it in at the dealer, either Chrysler corporate or the Chrysler Jeep dealer came sniffing around, offering a ridiculously low trade in price. It may not be running but there is some value in the rest of the vehicle.

    To replace the engine with a used engine is approx. $7000.00-$8000.00 for the engine alone. The cost of a new engine is approx. $20,000 for the engine alone.

    I'd go with the Toyota.
  • jeremy77jeremy77 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2011 with the same configuration and mine does that 10x. It started with a shudder during acceleration but has since moved on to a shudder when just driving at a constant speed over 80kmh (50mph).
    The dealer HAS admitted the problem but indicated there is nothing they can do yet as Chrysler has yet to release a fix.

    They mentioned to me it was the torque converter. Said that when the vehicle switches from "ECO" (4 cylinder) back to 8, the torque converter is searching for what to do and is applying then releasing, applying then releasing, almost like a clutch.
    This is what is causing the shudder.

    I call BS and and asked them to replace it but they're saying the new version of the vehicle is doing the exact same thing so they wont replace it.
    Only thing to do is put a lot of pressure of Chrysler.
  • jeremy77jeremy77 Member Posts: 3
    I'm having the exact same issue and I'm just about at my wits end. Dealer is saying the same thing that it's the torque converter and that there is no fix for it yet.
    They also gave me the BS line of driving another one of the lot and seeing that it does the same thing. Well I drove the owner of the dealerships GC and if mine drove like his did, I wouldn't be complaining.
    Point being; seems like every GC has a slight shudder while the engine changes from ECO (4 cylinder) back to 8. The torque converter engages and disengages. But I think there are varying degrees and I can tell you that mine is almost un-drivable now as its constant from 80kmh (50mph) and up.

    I think everyone with this issue needs to put a lot of pressure on Chrysler and maybe if we all talk with the same person, team or group it might help.
  • brn2skifstbrn2skifst Member Posts: 4
    edited September 2012
    On my last visit to the dealer which was Chrysler's last attempt to fix it, I had the Service Manager at my dealer drive it. He, of course, would not come out and admit there was a problem but told me that they have done all available TSB's and that I could drive it in 6th or "tow-haul" (now why would he tell me that if there was no problem?) I also mentioned the update due in February and he acknowledged that also...hmmm. I then got back on the phone with the Chrysler Rep and told him about the test drive. During my conversation with him he acknowledged the term "FISHBITE" which is what it is being called because of the tugging feeling the problem gives you. He also acknowledged that the software to hopefully rectify it is written but it is going through tests and won't be out until Feb? I filed the paperwork for a NJ lemon law case and am waiting to hear back from them now. If you have the problem, drive it in 6th until the software comes out. We should not have to do that with a brand new $46k vehicle though.
  • jeremy77jeremy77 Member Posts: 3
    I'm in Ontario and we don't have lemon laws here in Canada. I'm searching for an equivalent.
    That said, I just want my car to run the way it was advertised and not have to take legal action against an Automotive giant..

    I hope that patch that's due to come out in February works but doubt it very much.
  • tiredofitinaztiredofitinaz Member Posts: 8
    The lemon laws were not an option for us down here because we waited too long. We kept hoping things would get better for our Jeep as well because we loved the car when it was running. Unfortunately the JGC's either seem to be really good or really bad. Hate to see anyone else go through the he** we did with Chrysler. The company refuses to take responsibility for defective vehicles, especially those pre-bankruptcy.
  • shootr52shootr52 Member Posts: 2
    edited October 2012
    I have a 1996 Grand Cherokee Limited with the 5.2 V8 and 4 speed automatic transmission. This vehicle has been great for me and trouble free, until this past Monday.
    I live in PA and had to drive up a road which included a 3 mile drive up a mountain, and down the other side. i noticed while climbing the mountain the rpms were at 3 grand and the trans did not shift up out of 2nd gear. i had reached 55 mph and it should have shifted to 3rd gear or Drive. i disengaged the overdrive and let off the gas then it shifted. I thought i must be low on fluid. so i was careful coming down the other side of the mountain highway and checked the fluid. it appeared low as i did not see fluid on the dipstick. i added fluid and continued on my way to Allentown where my daughter was going for surgery. i noticed that every time i came a stop the transmission would again not shift out of 2nd gear unless i let off the gas, or shifted to neutral then back to drive. if i pulled out very slowly from a stop it would shift some of the time.
    when we reached the hospital my son -n-law and i checked the fluid again and it again appeared low. the fluid is clean and not brown, and there is no burnt smell. we again added fluid. and left it at that. when my daughter was out of surgery and okay i decided to head home, and her husband would stay with her until her discharge the next day. ( They had followed me in their own car). Again at first the trans shifted normally. then the same symptom started again. i made it home by repeatedly shifting to neutral then back to drive and the trans would shift in to higher gear, until i came to a stop again.
    when i got home, i again checked the fluid, and again it appeared low. so stupid me, i again added fluid. I did not run the jeep again this day, but noticed a few hours later that i had a nice leak of trans fluid that appears to be coming from between the trans tail shaft, and the transfer case. the fluid is clean and un-burnt. i checked the fluid level and found it was way over filled. since i have an external cooler i was able to drain away the extra fluid. with the fluid level showing normal, with the trans hot in neutral. the leak appears to have stopped as i had wiped off the area where it had been dripping and placed cardboard underneath, and only a few residual drops were there. i test drove the jeep again. and again the same symptom of not shifting to high gear appeared.
    I was checking forums here and some are saying it is a problem with the throttle position sensor, i have a new one ordered and will replace it. i am hoping this is the problem. I need and would greatly appreciate any and all input from you jeep guys and gals, as although i have mechanic experience, i am not up to speed on these newer systems of sensors and relays controlling transmissions. i am retired / disabled with spine problems so i am on a fixed income, and i can only do minor work myself. Please post if any of you can offer any advice or help. God Bless and Thank You!! :(
  • shootr52shootr52 Member Posts: 2
    This is an update to my prior post. today 10/18/12, i went to get gas and to try a bottle of K&W Trans X. i drove the six miles to the NAPA store and the shifting problem seemed to have gone away.
    They were out of the small bottles of Trans X and not wanting another episode of over filling, i decided to return home. By now the jeep was fully warmed up. and sure enough it started again, only this time i no longer had second or drive.
    When i pulled over to the shoulder and put it in park for a minute or two, i could again go with first second and drive, with drive fading out and it beginning to slip until i manually shifted into second.
    I noted that the problem was at worst when the overdrive was engaged. so i kept the overdrive off. this helped a little but i ended up making it back home using only first gear.
    I again checked the fluid. it is right at the full mark and a pretty pinkish purple. no smell of burned fluid, no brown fluid. I am totally lost at this point. ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED!!! :confuse:
  • myprincejackmyprincejack Member Posts: 3
    Hi davides8,
    I have had a similar problem with my Jeep Laredo CDR 2003 since March 2012 and to date have not been able to fix it. Since March the vehicle has been back to Jeep 4 time with the same problem of going into limp mode. Each time they have fiddled with it and all is OK for about 4 - 6 weeks. At this time it is still at jeep and they inform me that it requires: Valve body & TCM all up including labour $7,276.05. They say that the codes come back as supply voltage to the TCM so I don't understand why tehy need to replace these parts.
    Do you think that I may also have a grounding problem?
    Hope you can help.
    Many thanks,

    Myprincejack
  • myprincejackmyprincejack Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I have have had a problem with my Jeep Laredo CDR 2003 since March 2012 and to date have not been able to fix it. Since March the vehicle has been back to Jeep 4 time with the same problem of going into limp mode. Each time they have fiddled with it and all is OK for about 4 - 6 weeks. At this time it is still at Jeep and they inform me that it requires: Valve body & TCM all up including labour $7,276.05. They say that the problem codes come back as supply voltage to the TCM so I don't understand why they need to replace these parts, OR could it be some other problem.

    Hope someone can help.
    Many thanks,

    Myprincejack
  • michaels_dadmichaels_dad Member Posts: 8
    That price is insane. The TCM, if I'm not mistaken, can be had for $100.00 or so. The entire transmission can be had for less than 1/2 that price. I'd take it to a good transmission shop.
  • tliftguytliftguy Member Posts: 4
    My 2012 Overland with the 5.7 Hemi is shuddering at Highway speeds every time i come to an incline. I have tryed to see if cruise control changes anything, but no luck. The only way around it is to go back into manual mode and raise the RPMS. Just yesterday I went and complained to my dealership for the second time. The first time they ran the diagnostic , and told me no issues were found. So this time I insisted on taking the service manager out on a drive. On the drive he did his best to educate on how the vehicle is designed save me money.... switching to 4 cylinder mode whenever possible. I myself continued to educate him that for the money I payed, this was not acceptable. With the service manager driving, we approached an incline, the vehicle hesitated right on cue. Back at the dealership we scheduled yet another diagnostic appointment.
  • muchobligedmuchobliged Member Posts: 5
    I have a 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that I've been driving for about 4 years, all year-round. Up until the end of last winter, I had no problems driving in most weather conditions, from heavy snow to ice; for the most part I only needed to use the four wheel drive in the worst conditions. However, mid-winter last year, my check engine light came on, and I brought it to the local garage. I found out that I had to get my torque converter replaced, which I did. From around that time, I've noticed that the jeep seems to have a lot more trouble "gaining momentum" from a complete stop, and driving smoothly through relatively docile conditions. Many times, I've come to a stop sign, and tried to slowly start moving again, which always worked in the past, but it still seems to have trouble getting traction (or something; I really don't know much about cars). This includes instances where there is much less than a quarter of an inch of snow, and little or no ice, and cases where it is raining. To my embarrassment, there have been a few times where other cars go by me with ease as I try to get through conditions that I believe I easily could have gotten through in the past. FYI the tires have all been replaced and are of good quality, so I've been assured that it's not likely to be due to worn out tires. I'm planning on asking a local mechanic about this problem soon, but I'd appreciate some second opinions. There have not been any major snow storms since I got the torque converter replaced, but I am worried that the jeep might get stuck even with four wheel drive on, if anything more than a mild storm comes through (and this is new england, so it's expected, although last year we had a VERY mild winter).

    P.S. I'm sure this is related in some way, although not directly, but since the torque converter was replaced, the jeep seems to have some problems switching gears. Instead of shifting from exactly 1 to 2 or 3, the rpms indicator seems to hang a little bit lower or higher, and shifts at weird times. Also, most frighteningly, a few times when I've tried to accelerate quickly, as in going onto the highway, the jeep went straight into the red area of the indicator and stopped accelerating. I've been trying to save up money to get this looked at and maybe maintenanced again.
  • muchobligedmuchobliged Member Posts: 5
    Hi there, I know this was quite a while back, but did you ever find out why your jeep was having trouble moving from a stop? I seem to be having similar problems in snow/rain conditions, although I don't have any of the problems you had with four wheel drive.
  • muchobligedmuchobliged Member Posts: 5
    ":2. After coming out of a stop, or even putting my foot on the pedal after slowing down, it has a hard time grabbing the gear and getting out of first and the engine strain is very audible. Once it shifts out of first, I have no problems.
    "
    Hey there. Did you ever figure out for sure what was causing this? Any feedback would be appreciated!
  • muchobligedmuchobliged Member Posts: 5
    Hi there. I know this was quite a while ago, but did you ever figure out exactly what the problem was? I'm having similar issues on days with inclement weather, and I'm pretty sure it's not the tires, especially considering that I had to have the torque converter replaced last spring. Thanks!
  • muchobligedmuchobliged Member Posts: 5
    Could you please tell me, how did this turn out for you? Did you figure out what was wrong?
  • honpudhonpud Member Posts: 2
    Okay, I'm having the same problem, exactly. How much does this sensor cost and can I get a shade tree mechanic to fix :cry: it?
  • suebug9suebug9 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same issue. the sensor was replaced for the tranny but didn't change or help. tried contacting Jeep (VERY RUDE). so have another guy looking at it. any ideas??
  • pie4pie4 Member Posts: 1
    the idol climbs slow as it sits and warms up...sometime up to 2000 plus rpms. while driving it has a whining sound which disappears when i step on the gas. but when im not on the highway...i dont have to step on the gas much becoz of the friggn idol. this drivn me fn crazy....help !!!!!!!
  • dmillz1dmillz1 Member Posts: 1
    Try replacing your speed sensor and see how that do.
  • garyhengaryhen Member Posts: 2
    We have a 2003 and had a problem and codes suggesting trans failure because of codes PO723.733,734 Incorrect gear ratio and it would not go more than 25 mph, had the trans rebuilt and found a bad pump and replaced the solenoid assembly,torque converter etc. These codes were set when the car sat for a while or over night, but after it warmed up it drove fine. Well got all that done for $1800 and the Jeep still does the same thing with the same code. The shop has had if for 3 days now and can not determine the problem but now looking at the TCM and computer. They told me this morning that when it sits the line pressure at start up is super low but when it warms a bit or runs for a while it goes to the normal setting
    So you guys have any helpful ideas we need to check? :cry:
  • garyhengaryhen Member Posts: 2
    Sorry it is a voltage thing we think something is only alowing marginal line pressure when it sits over night and then it causes the car not to shift corectly setting codes it is a new rebuilt trans and they have had it out twice to recheck their work
  • rpm1975rpm1975 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Am having the same problem with my Jeep Grand Cherokee. When I drive in automatic "D" in heavy traffic, the jeep vibrates/shudders and I suspect the reason is the jeep is not able to identify the gear it should be in. This does not happen when I use Tiptronic (manual) gear.

    Can you let me know how you solved this issue.
  • myprincejackmyprincejack Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have been having transmission problems with my Grand Cherokee Laredo since June 2012 (at a cost of $3,000 to date)with an intermittent problem of going into limp mode. It has been back to the JEEP DEALERSHIP on each occasion (being four to date) and they advise me that it is a supply voltage problem to the TCM which in turn affects the solenoids in the transmission. The last time (early October) it was in and only the last time they informed me that the battery fail the test so I purchased a new battery and voila!!!!! I am mystified why the battery was not checked at the first visit because in my mind that if the problem is voltage would you not go to the source to start the fault finding. Also at the last visit they told me that I need to replace the TCM & Solenoides at a cost of $7,250.00 . I told them to reset the codes and I drove away and have had no further problems to date.
    I hope this helps. GOOD LUCK!!!
  • bobrooksbobrooks Member Posts: 2
    2002 42RE Transmission 130K stopped working properly after overheating the engine 4.0L 2WD (radiator cracked). Transmission has no reverse. Does not up shift from 2nd to 3rd in D. Reverse initially was shuddering (jumping ) at first which lasted a short time before losing All power. No problems with shift selector 1 or 2. Starting off in normal drive mode (D) 1st shift takes place @ 2000 rpm 2nd shift @ 25 mph .... and from there as soon as the speedometer hits 35 mph tranny hits whats feels like Neutral, I then have to put the selector in D2 which is OK as long as I don't need to drive faster than 35 mph. If I leave the selector in D I have to put the gas pedal down a bit enough to increase the RPM to approx. 4000 rpm at that time the tranny will continue to drive as long as I'm increasing the speed. The tranny does not slip it feels like neutral. Transmission fluid was Dark when checked filter was replaced as well as the transmission fluid ATF 4 was used. Graphite greased was noted on magnet in pan. No metal was seen although fluid was Very Dark before Fluid Change. Transmission shop wants $2000 for rebuild. What else could cause this ..... Torque Converter ? any suggestion would be appreciated. Thank You
  • worriedmom3worriedmom3 Member Posts: 1
    Sounds like Jeep or the NHSTA needs to do a recall of Jeep transmissions. We only have 50,000 miles on our 2007 JGC, and we are being asked to pay almost $3,000 for various repairs, including a new transmission. We'll just park it before we pay that much!
  • bobrooksbobrooks Member Posts: 2
    Transmission problem fixed.... Broken Reverse Accumulator
    Spring. Removed Plate on valve Body 4 Torx screw(s). Spring was in 2 Pieces.Cost to replace Spring $4.00
  • vinnie69vinnie69 Member Posts: 1
    edited December 2012
    I have a 2011 JC Hemi Limited....what a piece of junk that transmission is. I currently have 64k on my jeep and I am on my second transmission. Like a lot of what I read, my second trans is doing what the first on did. Low RPM it rides like a tractor. Shutters, vibration at time it seems like it does not know what gear to go in, sometimes it shifts very hard while driving, other time it seems to take for ever for the passing gear to kick in, when it does she shakes while the engine is screaming. I have brought this jeep back 27 times already since the transmission has been replaced and they keep telling me that its normal. I brought in my X5 to show then how much better the completions product is. Since I have owned this junk I have replaced the drivers window module 3 times, the power steering, the water pump, navigation system and the transmission. Lets be real here, this is a jeep and when you watch the commercials this thing can climb walls, yet I have never been off roading, never towed anything it has all been highway miles. I am very disappointed with this truck and I paid big bucks for this thing. I'm tired of fighting....I just want to burn it to the ground.....thanks for reading and best of luck....
  • panda_xrpanda_xr Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what it was? My 06 JGC has been doing it off and on, and when its idling at a stop light/sign it bounces...
  • honpudhonpud Member Posts: 2
    I have been trying to post but it's hard to get back to this site. I had to get my transmission rebuilt because the gears would not shift automatically. I'm still having problems with it shifting sometimes since December 2012. The mechanic said that now it's the cable to the transmission so he wants to look at that. I paid 850.00 to get the transmission rebuilt. Too much money but this is what I have to do for now.
  • 2wheeldevil2wheeldevil Member Posts: 1
    So when I am at a complete stop, then accelerate.. i can feel a slight 'bump'. I almost though that the motor was off the mounts but thats not it. It varies in severity. I drove off of the interstate the other day and stopped. Started to accelerate and *boom*. thing shifted like a darn train. Any thoughts?? Its like the vehicle isnt shifting completely down into 1 at a stop. Are all jeeps this way? Can anyone feel this sensation from a stop/start, stop/start?
    Jeep.. as usual.. can never duplicate the issue.
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