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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    Are these expensive and are they something that could easily be replaced when the pan is off to do the fluid change or are they located else where? I am pretty good at mechanics and have changed a few engines and rebuilt a few but transmissions are another animal and just do not have a good place to work on. But can do what I have to if it will save me hundreds of $$$

    Thanks
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    You can test the solenoids by measuring their ohm's reading. On the AW4 transmission (not sure what you've got) they can be accessed and seen after the filter inside the pan is removed. The ohm's test "range" can be obtained from the transmission service manual. This link title shows a pic of the measurement method using the multimeter. Many solenoids are kept in place with one bolt and can be pulled out to replace once the bolt (and wire) are removed. If you search on the web you can find decent prices either on individual solenoids or (in my case) a complete kit of three.

    Googling as in my case "AW4 manual" resulted in many hits for viewing the transmission manual. I was told by both a transmission shop and the Jeep dealer I needed to rebuild my transmission. Neither one could (or wouldn't) tell me what was wrong with it. With nothing to loose, I checked the solenoids myself and have been running with the same transmission ever since, and that was in 2008.
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    I will pass this onto the mechanic who is going to replace the fluid and check it out. I hope they will take the lead and check out the solenoids.

    Thanks!!
  • trose7trose7 Posts: 1
    We have a 1998 jeep Grand Cherokee with 148,000 miles. Lately the car has been revving and the gears not catching primarily in the overdrive gear but sometimes at a lower gear as well. This problem only occurs when it is hot outside and the car itself is hot. We looked at the trans fluid which is fine in both color and smell, however it is overfilled and bubbly. I am aware that an overfilled trans can cause the fluid to be bubbly, but I am also concerned that it is an actual problem with the transmission. The mechanic does not recommend a drain and fill since it is an older car and it could be a trans problem. What should we do?!
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could be a trans prob but drain and new filters and oil is a lot cheaper than a rebuilt trans go for the cheep first
  • victorclesivictorclesi Posts: 1
    edited June 2010
    THE ENGINE WAS SWAPPED. THE TRANSMISSION WAS TROUBLE FREE. AFTER THE SWAP THE TRANSMISSION QUIT WORKING ANY IDEA WHERE TO START.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    edited June 2010
    Look at any cables or wires that go between the transmission and other engine components like the throttle, engine computer, etc. I never pulled a transmission so I don't know how the flywheel and torque converter go together. I dropped the pan and replaced transmission filter on my truck. I was very cautious about refilling it to make sure I didn't overfill it. I observed that before fluid reached an adequate level, it wouldn't shift at all. Also, because they are physically in the way, they had to disconnect transmission lines to the cooler. If they are now leaking, the transmission would work OK when they delivered it, but loss of fluid may disable it. Remember, you must check fluid level HOT.
  • chief40chief40 Posts: 4
    Sounds like you have a broken motor mount, and the fan is hitting the shroud.
  • redneck56redneck56 Posts: 2
    When you hooked up motor to trans did you make sure torque convertor was pushed back into pump on trans. They dont give you much room but this is very important item to watch.Sounds like there could be binding problem in that area.
  • redneck56redneck56 Posts: 2
    Hey Tommy had same problem on a 1996 4 wd trans. Turned out to be torque convertor. Drop pan and see if you have metal in it. Also upgrade fluid to ATF-4 newer trans hate dextron even if the book says you can get away with it. Hope this helps. Good trans shop can also read code and narrow down, mine completely rebuilt mine for $700.00 on bench i did all labor which is not that hard.
  • pacman8pacman8 Posts: 2
    Bought this 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the 3.7L a few months back. During the test drive it ran smooth and shifted like a dream. It has 74K miles on it and recently started acting strange at the 1300 - 1500 rpm range. mostly with light throttle and starting up a slight grade. the tach is jumping up and down while the Jeep is surging or bucking. The dealer has looked at it twice. Re programed the computer and said it was torque shudder and just manually shift it at a higher rpm cause it shifts into overdrive too soon. Dealer also suggested a bottle of Lucas Tans fix. After adding the additive it has gotten worse. It now is making a growl or chatter noise when it's doing it's surging. I asked the dealer if a trans service would help and he said that it might be a good idea at this mileage. I see alot of other people having the same problems but what was the solutions? Or is there a solution? Thanks in advance for any advise you may have.
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    I read all about the Lucas trans fix and it is important to use the right one. I believe there are three types. Might be good to do a total flush that will get ALL the fluid out from the tranny and the torque convertor. The filter actually get pretty cleaned out in the process.
    I have a 93 with a 6 and it does this trying to go into first gear but never fails if I manually put it into first. This makes me think it might be electrical but the solenoids can do this as well so I have been told.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I have a 97 JGC I bought in 2000 with 70K on it and I didn't have any transmission trouble until 170K this year. I serviced the trans myself 2-3 times only dropping the pan, but the filter got changed. I never did the flush. Dropping the pan is a PITA, but it's the only way to change the filter. I'd rather drain 50% of fluid and change the filter than drain 100% of the fluid. I see 100% fluid drain as a preventive measure more than a remedy.

    If I really liked the car and had lost faith in repair shops, I would buy the 2006 shop manual and read the whole chapter on transmission. My manual has over 120 pages just on transmission. Read the troubleshooting sections. What can you check with the trans still in the vehicle? Cables? Wiring?

    Maybe operation in 1 or 2 will help you learn more.

    If the trans has its own computer, make sure the ground and power wires are OK. You need a good voltmeter.

    It's a difficult situation. I believe its $500 in labor just to pull and re-install a transmission, but it seems way too soon to have to do a rebuild.

    If you get it resolved, please update the thread for our benefit.
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    I was told that a good flush of all the fluid with a power flush and cleaner is better since the filter is mainly a wire mess affair and not like an oil filter. This gets all the fluid out not just 50% or so.
    I think I will get the manual for my 93 since I know how bad grounds and such can cause problems....Saturns have a problem when the ground or plus is corroded on the battery. It really screws up the whole running of the engine since it is all controlled by a computer, even the accelerator...not mechanical.

    Thanks
  • Where can I get a trans dip stick for my 06 jgc?
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    I'm sure the Jeep dealer has them. Not sure if they'll give you the run-a-round trying to order one though. I found one in a parts list downloaded from the web. Also found them on Ebay. I'm sure if you ask around you'll find more sources. Trying to "Google" them doesn't turn up much as they're sold primarily by vendors to garages. There's not much to them and expect to pay around 50 bucks or more. Here's one on Ebay (link title) although not necessarily for your GC. Also, get instructions on their use as the vehicle has to be within a certain temperature range when taking a reading.
  • n3tukn3tuk Posts: 1
    Just replaced the engine,cam and crankshaft sensors,spark plugs and new transmission fluid,after all tranny wont shift at all,any help will be appreciate it?
    codes P0700,P0138 and open circuit message
  • hsr1hsr1 Posts: 3
    i have a 1998 r reg jeep grand cherokee automatic 4.o model and when i try to reverse the bugger wont go into reverse it wont move and i cant seem to fathom the problem out it drives perfect but is a pain i cant get the reverse gear to work
    :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    hsr1, I had a similar event on my '98 GCL - wheels all locked up to in reverse and went ahead just fine. A local mechanic drained the gearbox and installed a new kit of solenoids. Put in new oil and filters and it's been just fine since. If you don't change the oil about every 8 - 10 k miles it burns and the solenoids stick.
    Cost me just under 400 USD down here in Mexico.
  • hsr1hsr1 Posts: 3
    what i was actually meaning is when i put drive into reverse it will not move an inch even in reverse gear wondered what the actual prob could be i have a 98 jeep gcl on a uk plate has me baffled
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    hsr1, Unable to drive back out of my garage because of the gearbox problem, I had the GCL towed out. The wheels had locked and wouldn't turn. Left quite a mark on the garage floor. However, if that is your problem, your cure may well be the same as mine. If I read correctly and you live in UK, I am sure the cure would cost you more than it did for me here in Mexico. Perhaps a scrap yard tour is the answer to find a new unit. Good luck
  • Hello mate. Probably the gearbox needs a new solenoid pack. This is reasonably cheap if you can do it yourself, about 100 quid
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    The following info comes from the troubleshooting chart in my 97 Jeep shop manual for symptoms "No reverse, but drive OK.
    1. Gearshift cable misadjusted
    2. Park Sprag sticking
    3. Valve body malfunction
    4. Rear servo malfunction
    5. Direct clutch in Overdrive worn
    6. Front clutch burnt

    Take a close look at no. 1. Over the years I have observed my cable stretching so that the position changes and the indicator no longer lines up perfectly. Once in a while I think I have it in drive, but it's not and I have to move it further.
  • I have a 2003 Grand Cherokee. Over the last year, beside the check engine light being on. I'd step on the gas and it wouldn't get out of 1st gear. It would go a week or a month and the problem would disappear. I'd pull over, shut down the car, wait 5 minutes and the car wouldn't have any problems, sometimes for a day, or again for a week.

    So I went to town on the accelerator as you suggested. Didn't do anything. Parked the car, came back a few hours later and it know works fine. Not sure if almost spraining my knee, from beating up the pedal worked. Keep you posted.

    Do you pound on the pedal, when the car is on, off, in drive. Please advise.
  • Has anyone had a problem with the transmission not shifting out of 1st or 2nd into 3rd. It can happen sometimes, but then go away. No rhyme or reason.

    Also the average gas mileage is only 11.5 mostly city driving. Any thoughts. Thinking its due to the problem with the transmission, but not sure.

    Hooked up to the computer, says that the transmission is fine..maybe the solenoid or something associated with the computer.

    I'd really appreciate someone diagnosing and letting me know what the fix is. Even violently worked over the pedal, due to a post that said its possible that the solenoid is dirty. Have approx 81k miles on the car..
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    My 1993 JGC will run fine until it gets warm and then it will not go into first at a stop sign or light. Sometimes it will jump in and out of first as you take off but if you grab the shifter and manually pull it into first is grabs and then you shift into second and third and it works fine. Not sure how getting hot works in the transmission and causes the problem...but it is pretty consistent. Has about 140,000 miles and the last time the transmission was serviced was at about 75,000. Wonder if it is a mechanical problem or electrical....am thinking of having the power flush to see if that helps. Any ideas? Stomping on the gas pedal is done with the car turned off...right?
  • Hi, Basically I pound the pedal on , off, in gear, out of gear, had to do it on several occaision before the problem completely dissappeared, but now the box works fine.
  • tyler30tyler30 Posts: 1
    i have a 93 grand cherokee the tranmissions wont hold fluid when i start offf its changes gears fine after a few minutes it wont change gears cant fugure out why any suggestions
  • wpatterswpatters Posts: 54
    When you say it won't hold fluid where does it go? I mean without fluid all bets are off. Can you manually shift into gears with the shifter? If you have a major leak then that has to be fixed first.
  • can anyone tell me if a select trac tranmission out of a 93 jeep cherokee will work in a 97 jeep grand cherokee that also has a select trac transmission
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