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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems



  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    Still sounds like something isn't making a good connection somewhere. I assume all your fuses are ok. How is the PCM grounded? I looked at one schematic (link title), and it says the PCM provides the ground for the TPS and MAP sensor. That was on page 8w-30-4. Unless a component tests bad like the VSS, up to this point my guess is it's in the wiring or a bad connection or ground.
  • When my brother bought this jeep before I got it the powerwindows didn't work, so we checked for power to the moter and there was so we put a ground on the other and thats how they been working for the past year. On his 1990 jeep he had there was a fuse he found hanging down from the dash in line with a wire and needed a fuse so he used it and it shifted strange the next day, then he put that fuse back and it shifted great. Do you know if there is a fuse like that on mine and where, all the fuses I just looked at were good.
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    I don't recall any "inline fuses" under the dash of Chrysler products, although I could very well be wrong. It makes me think maybe it was a wire from an accessory someone added, like a radio or lights. But don't get me wrong, it could still be something Chrysler made with the Jeep.

    I'm still searching for other ideas.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Since initial inspecion of the trans was OK, I would be suspicious of the shift lever cable and make sure it is properly adjusted. Over time everything stretches and gets looser. You may think you are in drive, but you are actually 1/2 way between drive and neutral.

    My 97 jeep has a manual indicator which just shows you the position of the lever.

    I assume you have a manual indicator. If you have LCD indicator on dash, I am not sure how they work, but in either case, the cable may be the issue.
  • Saturday I checked the codes on my jeep and it had a code 13-VSS, so I cleared it and drove it sunday and now today monday. I just hooked the scanner up and I have a code 13-VSS. It tells me there is no signal. Now this is what controls my speedometer and that is working, when we unhooked that no speedometer. Any ideas. I think tomarrow if I have time I will take the sensor part off and see if it's defective. I'll keep you updated.
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    Found this page link title on Speed Sensors. It focuses on newer models with a note about earlier Cherokees.

    A few electrical diagrams I found on the web show the Vehicle Speed Sensor sharing the same circuit (or wires) as some other sensors. All three of them end up back at the PCM. If that is a code you keep getting after repeatedly erasing it, and you've checked the wires and connections (I know some are hard to get at), you might consider replacing that sensor. It's a 50/50 chance this problem is related to the head gasket job, so it's possible a problem happening at this time might have been a coincidence. One thing for sure, it's definitely a part that would cause those symptoms.
  • I have an 2006 Jeep Grand Cherokee with approx 33,000 miles. I moved my car this morning and there was a good size puddle of transmission fluid under it. Upon inspection it looks like the pan gasket is the problem, I checked and all the bolts are tight. Anyone heard of a gasket going bad so soon?
    I tried to check the fluid level and where the dip stick should be there is a cap that reads "For Dealer Use"
    Can I get one at any auto parts store?
    How much fluid does a grand cherokee take, the manual doesnt specify?
    How much torque do I use when putting the pan back on?

    Thanks in advance for your help
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    At 33,000 miles you shouldn't be having problems with any gasket. Is it possible a silicone type gasket was used by the manufacturer instead of a pre-cut one? I was surprised to hear some newer vehicles don't have a dipstick for the transmission. A few pages which discuss this and have some parts numbers are link title and link title (see page bottom). Two dipstick sources are link title and link title. Like you mentioned, I would try a local auto parts store first. Also, Googling "dipstick 8863B" brings up a lot of hits, although I'm not sure if that's the correct dipstick number for your Jeep. As for tightening torque, I only go slightly tighter than "wrist tight" using a srewdriver type handle with socket for older precut gaskets, but in your case I would try to obtain that information from a service manual or dealer.
  • My sisters vehicle has no dipstick, they want you to go to the garage and get it checked and have them do it. And I would do the same for torquing, just finger tight the snug them with a wrech or socket don't torque on them they break and leak, it works for me i have no leaks you should have no problem. My 95 I put in about 3.5 quarts almost 4, then checked if it was on the dipstick, but you should add a quart at a time then check it you have on the dipstick, then drive it, check it running and added if needed. Good luck!
  • Today when I drove it and parked, I cycled the key and it gave me VSS code and Governor Pressure sensor offset drift. My brother and I think you are right about the connection, but we think a ground, because of the ground for my windows going(still didn't find) and moving wires causes different things so. I'm going to a shop tomarrow where he gets his diagrams and get a ground diagram for all the grounds and whatever will help. And start here tracing wires (fun). I'll let you know!
  • Thanks for the help, I'll let you know how I make out. I'm going to replace the gasket this weekend. I still haven't been able to find out how much transmission fluid I need. Will the autoparts store know that or do you know where I can find it?

    Any other thoughts on why I might be leaking fluid?

    I spent a good 45 min. looking around. The entire bottom of the transmission pan was wet as well as the gasket all the way around but nothing above the gasket had fluid on it. The only other spot was the plate that covers a wire connection on the corner of that pan was covered.
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    Not sure about the auto parts store knowing as they vary widely. Still, it doesn't hurt to ask. Sometimes one of their more experienced employees might know where to find it, especially if they want to sell you tranny fluid. They might even have one of the lower cost service manuals. I don't know how much the newer vehicle owners manuals have been dumbed down, but the earlier ones used to show fluid/oil capacities in the back. First thing would be to find and make sure of the model transmission you have. Then, you could ask the dealer service department (good luck), and if that falls through, Google the transmission model number for any info you can find on the web. Many times I've seen transmission manuals listed. In the end, what's going to matter is what's shown on the dipstick, so getting more than you need is not a problem.

    Myself, If I feel I'm going to keep a vehicle for a fair amount of time, I always invest in the factory service manual. No, they're not cheap, but you can rely on them for accurate information. In my view, they pay for themselves.

    As for the leak, is it possible to be coming from above, only to be blown on the pan by airflow? Only other "common" source of a leak I can think of would be cooling lines. Another possibility is the fluid could be from something else other than transmission fluid. Transmission pans usually don't contain a fluid level higher that the top of the pan (gasket area). If the gasket has an open spot, it's probably the fluid sloshing around and spilling out. Clean the pan best you can, then observe it after driving a little. Good luck.
  • I have the Ground diagram and alot of things are tied together like the power windows, they are on the same ground as the VSS, but I didn't see the TPS in this. I checked the ground associated with this components, and they are like new. So I pulled the cover off of the harness from the sensors on the Intake to the PCM. By the head they or soaked in oil, and the rest look good, my next step is to trece wires and check the splices. Any other suggestions.
  • Auto parts stores have the capacities and the fluid that vehicle needs every time I ask. I would check all the cooler lines first that easier that dropping the pan. If they are not wet though they probely are not leaking. Also is the connection on the pan or the case of the transmission, make sure that don't leak. Good luck!
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    Just curious, if you unplug the TPS, does it affect the engine at all? I'm wondering if it's still "in the loop", or if the PCM is in default mode somehow. Another thought, if you don't see a ground wire/strap from the engine to the frame/body, why not ground them together to see what happens? I'm probably repeating what you've already tried, but can't think of anything more at this time than what you're already doing. Keep plugging away!
  • Yes when you unplug it it idles high, and the throttle response is slow. Also the guy I got the ground diagram off of said that PCM's have bolts going through the fire wall and that's how they ground. You think I should run a wire from the head over to the fire wall. I'll try that maybe there's a ground I missed and is corroded.
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    Yeah, I think that'd be a good idea just to rule it out, even if you don't leave it that way.
  • loosenutloosenut Posts: 165
    lately,with all the hi milage junk i can afford to drive,ive come acrost-"prestone trans stop leak"..used it in my jeep,where i found a trans funnel under th hood-like it was used quart,and havent had to add any more for over nearing two years now..
    -found the prestone stop leak with a old ford aerostar,with a worn out steering rack-a common problem-, used a quart in two months-mostly winter,and after two bottles,it still doesn't use any more !..
    --lots of folks harsh all that goop,but i'd sooner pay 5 bucks for a stop leak-usually name brand name,then have to rebuild the seals in a tranz..ya just gotta try,and see what works! :sick:
  • I found a ground on the diagram that's on the coil bracket. I took the stud and nut out and they were rusted up, and the threads were corroded, along with the connectors on the grounds. I replaced everything but nothing changed. I pulled the head off last night, i'm getting everything checked and the oil leak fixed this time, the oil killed one starter and I cleaned the other and got it to work. Maybe the tranny will shift right when I put it back together.
  • Ok well I parked my jeep friday afternoon and on sunday when I went to change the gasket I expected to see a huge puddle as I have the last several mornings but there wan only a small one.
    I started it and put it in drive for a minunte and after that it started leaking pretty good ( a drop every 10 seconds or so)
    Went ahead and changed the gasket but it keeps leaking in the same spot, at the gasket in the corner by the electrical connection. There were no burrs or dents and I cleaned both faces well.
    When I called the dealership and told them my problem right away he asked if it was by the electrical connection but then wouldn't tell me anymore and said I'd have to bring it in.

    Any thoughts???

    This is a lease and I only have it for two more months and really dont want to take it somewhere and pay acouple hundred dollars to get it fixed.

    Thanks for all the help
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