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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Hi everyone,

    Picked up my 2001 JGC from the dealership yesterday and drove about 25 miles.
    It handled nicely. I was told to drive somewhat cautiously (like a new car) for the next 500 miles i.e. and avoid sudden accelerations. I was also told that after some time I ought to check the oil level - it might be low, as it fills the nooks and crannies.

    Total Cost: $1065.00 Parts: $502.00 Labor: $562.00

    Here's the breakdown and some analysis: (to nearest/lowest dollar)

    Remove and replace Transducer and Solenoid:
    Parts: (1) Transduce $165.00 (1) Solenoid 186.00
    Labor: $337
    Total $690.00

    Remove Transmission Pan; Cleaned and resealed, and replace filter
    and transmission oil.
    Parts: (1) Filter Package 85.00 (6) Fluid ATF 65.00
    Labor: $224.00
    Total: $375.00

    My recollection of labor costs is $150.00 an hour.

    OOOPS I just checked out the 'actual' cost of parts at MOPAR - Chrysler Parts

    FILTR PKG TRANSMISSION $44.45 (MSRP) $0.00 (Core) Price: $29.32

    SOLENOID TRANSMISSION $118.00 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 77.72

    TRANSDUCE PRESSURE $78.75 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 51.98

    (I had a hard time tracking down the Fluid cost)

    Total from MOPAR: $159.02
    I am leaving out the cost of shipping
    Total from local Jeep Dealer: $437.57

    Should I be surprised that there is a 275% markup of parts? In other words is it standard practice for dealerships to markup the prices of parts when used in repairs?

    I look at this as Part One of a hard learning exercise.

    Part Two:

    Notes from my session at the dealer reports:

    "The technician states left rear axle seal is leaking fluid Recommend to replace seal along with bearings. Parts and Labor $700.65 + Tax.

    Recommendation to replace pads (fluid absorption) and resurface rotors.
    Parts and Labor $470.00 + Tax"

    That would be another $1170.00 'hit.'

    Now, a month ago had my tires balanced and rotated at my regular mechanics shop. This was before the transmission debacle.

    Wouldn't the mechanic have noticed something? My guess is 'maybe' and mark it up to sh_ _ happens. I would give the mechanic - a non-dealer, but a trusted practitioner - the benefit of the doubt here. He doesn't handle transmissions, but when I first reported the tranny problems to him, from the sound of his voice, I heard "be careful - out there".

    Just to remind you, AAMCO said that it 'might' cost upwards of $2500. I guess that means it could also cost less .They wouldn't know until they ripped it apart. The advisor told me a rebuild tranny would take 5 - 7 business days and compared AAMCO service to the poor service I would get if I went to the dealer or dropped by a junk yard for an off the pile transmission. A salesman.

    On that note, I told him I needed to get a second opinion, he said: "what can i do to get your business today? " I really had no answer to that, none - but I did have a strong sense that I was in the wrong place.

    As I pulled out he offered to buy my car. He said the cost to him of the fix was lower than I would pay and that my car looked really good (flattery) Now that was the first really close-to-true statement he made. (But still flattery)

    Remember the car has 81,000 +/- miles, it is garaged here in the Big Apple, and at least 40 - 50% of our driving is highway. We use the car to go camping often with the Boy Scouts and visiting family far from this maddening place.

    My goal is to get 150,000 miles from this car. I know - it will take me another 8 or 9 years at current usage and newer cars would be far safer and more trouble free. someday, in a better economy, I might see the light and change my goals.

    Thanks for opportunity to drop my story off here and pick your brains. So far you guys have been great.

    Jeff in NYC
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    a the dealer has a huge markup i do all my own work and have 230000 miles on my 2000 jgc with 4.7 engine no major repairs water pump alternator radiator belts brakes normal stuff
    i do use mobile 1 oil and change at 6000 miles or so still dont use any oil between changes so you should get lots miles yet
    thanks for posting update

    tony
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Tony,

    Is it possible for the oil leaking from the rear axle to pool under the car - say

    overnight?

    I told the advisor I would work on the car next week - if he felt there was little

    chance of a problem on the road. I have a 250 mile trip to take tomorrow. He gave

    no guarantees but gave me no reason to put off my trip.

    Thanks for your help.

    Jeff
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    its posable but is it by a wheel or in the middle of the jeep if in middle then pinion seal is leaking if by tire then wheel bearing seal
    your regular mech should be able to change wheel bearing and seal
    i also dont think trip should cause problem just brake safe dont tailgate
    how big of pool?

    tony b
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Pool? I will let you know in a day or so.

    Jeff
  • Sometimes I wish, wish, wish I lived in the states. Seems everybody gets ripped off there, and on USA manufactured motors. Maybe I should considder moving out there and setting up a shop giving value for money. Would that work in your country???
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    'handsomerob' if you live in Mexico, just stay where you are. The 'gringos' have enough money to pay for their car repairs but we in Mexico (and I'm British) need good affordable mechanics. At the beginning of this year I had my '98 GLC gearbox rebuilt for 5,000 pesos. What's that 450 USD? In a few months I'll have it drained,.cleaned and refilled with new filters for about 50 USD. We need you guys here, in Mexico.
  • 51 K on this car and it just showed these codes..are the TCM or Shifter Bezel Assy covered under 7/70 ? Its runing fine NOW but..
  • I have a 42re trans (4x2).

    My previous trans would always pull out in 2nd gear shifting regular thru the rest. Rarely did it pull out in 1st gear. Eventually the trans went while on the highway. Vehicle trans shifted all over the place.

    I replaced my trans (keeping the old wiring) and found that it would not shift out of 1st gear. The kicker is that there is NO engine light on...... NOR did it produce any codes from my OBD2 scanner.

    I proceeded to unplug the speed sensor wire, run the engine. I then received an engine light and a fault code. I then erased the code(s). I then proceeded to do (1 at a time) the same to the governor wire connector/ neutral safety switch/TCM relay and the other 2 fuses. All produced the same effect. Engine light on with a fault code. i then erased them.

    Test drove the vehicle 6 blocks and it still didn't produce a fault or engine light.
    Problem...... It still doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • I had a 95 JGC with 42re did the samething and couldn't find out wat it was, the guy I sold it to is still running it? It bugs me wat it is, but I'm not sure?

    If you look at some of the previous posts, starting on page 22 where I was talking about my jeep, they have some good links that could help you. Good Luck!
  • Can anyone tell me what to check on this one.
    140,000 on a JGC 1993 6 cyc full time 4x4. Just had the transmission fluid changed (not a full flush) and the filter. Nothing changed with this problem;
    Shifts just fine until it has been driven an gets hot but normal temp.
    Then it starts to not downshift into first when you come to full stop. Sometimes it will and then jerks in and out a few times before shifting to 2nd and then 3rd and overdrive. All the other shift points are fine. When it does this I can manually drop the lever into first gear and it grabs just fine and then I can manually move it up to drive and the rest of the shifting works just fine.
    One person said it needs a new shifting module.
    I keep seeing people talk about a first gear band adjust but I do not see this in any manual for this car. I would think that if that was the problem it would fail if I manually put it into first...it does not.
    Could this be something with a speed sensor or the computer? No error codes show up or anything.
  • Thanks for the tip xelvis66x.

    The last thing i could think of is...

    I replaced my trans (42re inline 6cyl) out of a 98 into my 2001 Laredo.
    I believe prior to 99 the internal transmission solenoids had a 3 pin connector vs a 4 pin connector after 99. It connects on the inside of the trans into the 7 pin trans control connector on the outside of the trans.

    I am about to go in and see if this makes a difference.
    Thanks for your help.
  • darcysdarcys Posts: 5
    edited October 2010
    Just purchased a used JEEP Grand Cherokee Laredo, 3.7L. Engine runs great, problem is the tranny labours a lot when changing to a higher gear, when rpms are at about 1500.
    Purchased last friday, always wanted a JEEP, can someone help
    Oh yes and it has 295,000km on it, apparently all highway, was a bussiness man last owner.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Be thankful it's changing gears.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    dose the tach bounce around when trying to change gears?
    if not could be the lock up for the converter is not disengaging
  • darcysdarcys Posts: 5
    Yes the tach does bounce around, about 100rpm each way.
    T
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    could pos be the lock up solenoid not releasing might have to take to stealer
  • darcysdarcys Posts: 5
    Okay, thanks. Going to get tranny filter and fluid changed tomorrow, may not have been changed before. Will start with that and go to stealer about the solenoid.
    Thanks again
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    try and drive for couple days before taking to stealer see if gets better

    tony b
  • I have a 2005 GCJ 4x4 I have read my problem on here a few times. In the mornings I pull out and my truck jerks hard and drops into 3 gear. It will not go back into drive. It will go into all others. If i shut it down and re- start it's fine. The check engine also comes on. today it did it again, this time the check engine light would not go off. I have taken it to the dealer before. They can never find a code and tell me its fine. Today I took it to auto zone and got the code P0700. Then went to the dealer. They said there were many inactive codes and had no clue. Told me to drive it till it happens again. I am not sure if that is safe. Can any of you tell me what ended up being the problem with yours?
    Thanks so much,
    Jeepgirl
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    do a google search for jeep code p0700

    trans trouble code
  • i have a 1996 jeep cherokee country and out of no where when i put it in drive in has little to no power but when i put it in first and shift it my self while driving in is just fine....i can even put it in drive after taking off and it drives fine until i stop and have to take off again. it makes no since to me for it to be a spur of the moment thing. what could this be????? can you please help
  • I have a 1993 with a 6 cyc and it does the same thing but not that bad. Mine only fails to go into first sometimes and I have to manually shift it and then the other gears work fine. It is as if the electrical signal did not make it to the solenoid to say go into first because if you do it mechanically it works. Not sure if it is the computer or not. Mine does it more when it has been run awhile. Short trips it works fine. I had the transmission serviced and it did not change a thing. Someone told me to check all the electrical ground connections since it could be as simple as a bad connector..? Have not had a chance to check.

    If you figure it out let us all know as I think there is something common about this
  • nnealnneal Posts: 72
    I have a 1998 Cherokee with an AW4 transmission that was doing the same thing. Bringing it in to a transmission repair shop AND a Jeep dealer resulted in both of them telling me I needed a rebuild. With nothing to lose, I pulled the pan off the bottom and checked the solenoids (3 of them) to see if they were within the right Ohms specs. One was out of range (doesn't take much) and it turned out to be what was causing the problem. That was in 2009 and I'm still driving with the same transmission today! According to the service manual, when you put the shifter in 1st, it manually (bypassing solenoids) places the transmission in first gear. Hope this helps.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    what he says solenoids need to be looked at inside trans have to drop pan and filter the pack was sold on ebay for bout 100. bucks
  • That is also what I have heard is that to replace the solenoids is really pretty easy and way cheaper than a new tranny. Besides if that does not fix the problem then it is way too complicated for any home fixing. I will suggest this fix to the shop I go to and see what it costs. I would rather pay them than deal with all the fluid and junk to do it in my driveway.

    Thanks for the replys
  • First thing, check your transmission fluid....
  • Fluid is fine and new along with filter. Did not change a thing as the problem was there before the servicing.
  • darcysdarcys Posts: 5
    Well took JEEP to stealer, flushed tranny, new filter, new fluid, conditioner and works well. $395CA later, no more hesitation in shifting, good solid shifts.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    glad to hear that trans is ok now

    lot cheaper than new or rebuilt trans
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