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Jeep Grand Cherokee Transmission Problems



  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Changing Oil in the Past - I did the normal dealer care for the first 50K miles so I think it was probably changed then - couldn't swear to it though. I checked the oil on the stick (after a wipe - was the car hot?) was full - color brown, and no smell of smoke or burn.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    should not be brown should be redish as trans fluid is died that way so can tell what is leaking if have spots under car also trans fluid is different compounds from reg oil
    as stated would change trans fluid and filters if have wa42 trans has two filters should be in trans change kit from autozone or pepboys
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Thanks to all who have piped in here. To bring you up to date.
    I discovered that code P1762 flashed on the code reader. I took it to AAmco where they gave me their free analysis. Seems there is something awful under the hood. It might come out to $2000 to 2500+ to have it fixed. No promises. The need to tear it apart and see what's really wrong.
    Before I left, the manager asked me what he can do to get my business today. Not sure how to answer that. Well for one thing you could _ _ _ _ .
    I am reluctant about doing business there and I am ready to take it to a Jeep dealer where I am sure they will do all they can to make this into a case study of what not to do when you don't know what to do.
    On my way back to HQ I stopped off at Jiffy Lube and asked if they would drain and flush the transmission. Yes they will do it but they won't drop the pan. They'll push all the old fluid out but can't promise to to get all the gunk out.
    Any ideas, before I stop by my local dealer and hand him my Jeep and a blank check. Like what is the worst case scenario and how much would it cost?
    I believe driving the car in this state is doing the transmission little good.
    YiS, Jeff
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    code is governor sensor volts to high or to low

    just could be plugged pickup need to remove pan and change filters
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Thanks for your note. I have an appt. with the dealership in the morning.

    I'll 'ask' them to do that and I'll post what happens.
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Well, I brought my 2001 JGC into the dealership this morning. I told the service advisor - that the transmission was dragging itself from first into what I assume is third gear. My check engine light was on and the code P1762 showed up on the odometer. All stuff I described here. And that I drove it maybe two hundred miles since this all happened. Maybe two fifty. Oh and I asked him to drop the pan and flush out the fuel and clean the screen.

    Three hours later - he told me that there was a problem with the solenoid. Just as I was told by you fine fellows here on CarSpace. Total cost around 1100 - 1200 bucks and the car would be good as it was before all this happened. Not cheap, but a whole lot better than my AAMCO estimate.

    But, we are not done. The mechanic noticed another problem. Oil was leaking from the rear axle (case?) and dripping onto the brake pad. Need to fix the drip, 'scrape' the pad and do some work on the rotor. Another 1200 - 1300 bucks.

    I asked him if I could put the axle problem on hold until next week. Cash flow isn't what it used to be. Question: Am I taking some problem with safety? I am driving south and back this weekend - about three hours - 250 miles.

    Won't have the car back until tomorrow.

    BTW, I noticed that the dealer was especially slow this morning. Usually there is a line at the bay. I drove in - no wait.

    PS: If you haven't realized yet. I know next to nothing about cars. I was thrown out of 8th grade when they taught a course in very general auto mechanics in my Jr. HS. Oh, and yes, I really appreciate the effort and time you all have given me.
  • My 03 Grand Cherokee for the last 1.5 years has been flipping a check engine light, with that same code. Car would shift out of first/second into higher gears. Only thing I could do was gun it and get the car to 40mph, take my foot off the accelerator and as the rpms dropped, the car would go into 3rd and then accelerate normally. Not so good for the engine etc.

    I had the tranny guy reset the computer and bam, it stopped for 2 months. Now sporadically the same issue happens, but not as bad prior to the reset. I can't tell what it is. He said it was the solenoid, but I'm not so sure. I did add tranny fluid and that seemed to improve the situation.

    The lube guy wants me to flush out the tranny, but I'm worried about doing that. It's like adding a software patch on your computer and then it gets worse. So I'm holding off.

    Always reset the computer on these Jeeps as the dealer will always tell you to replace items, when the computer, dirty sensor etc could really be the problem.

    A dentist always wants to fix your teeth, a dealer always wants perfection in how the car runs. So you have to be careful in spending your money these days on un-needed repairs.
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    that sounds a little high as probably just a axel seal
    only bad thing is have to ruin axel bearing to change bearing bout 70 bucks seal 25
    lobor bout 1 hr if need pads on rear other 200 bucks
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Yeah - big city dealer prices. I'll know more tomorrow.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You need to fix the brakes unless you are just driving to the store and back. Oil on the brake pads creates uneven braking capability. If you do an emergency stop at 70 mph I doubt you will stop in a straight line.
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    edited October 2010
    Hi everyone,

    Picked up my 2001 JGC from the dealership yesterday and drove about 25 miles.
    It handled nicely. I was told to drive somewhat cautiously (like a new car) for the next 500 miles i.e. and avoid sudden accelerations. I was also told that after some time I ought to check the oil level - it might be low, as it fills the nooks and crannies.

    Total Cost: $1065.00 Parts: $502.00 Labor: $562.00

    Here's the breakdown and some analysis: (to nearest/lowest dollar)

    Remove and replace Transducer and Solenoid:
    Parts: (1) Transduce $165.00 (1) Solenoid 186.00
    Labor: $337
    Total $690.00

    Remove Transmission Pan; Cleaned and resealed, and replace filter
    and transmission oil.
    Parts: (1) Filter Package 85.00 (6) Fluid ATF 65.00
    Labor: $224.00
    Total: $375.00

    My recollection of labor costs is $150.00 an hour.

    OOOPS I just checked out the 'actual' cost of parts at MOPAR - Chrysler Parts

    FILTR PKG TRANSMISSION $44.45 (MSRP) $0.00 (Core) Price: $29.32

    SOLENOID TRANSMISSION $118.00 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 77.72

    TRANSDUCE PRESSURE $78.75 (MSRP) 0.00 (Core) Price 51.98

    (I had a hard time tracking down the Fluid cost)

    Total from MOPAR: $159.02
    I am leaving out the cost of shipping
    Total from local Jeep Dealer: $437.57

    Should I be surprised that there is a 275% markup of parts? In other words is it standard practice for dealerships to markup the prices of parts when used in repairs?

    I look at this as Part One of a hard learning exercise.

    Part Two:

    Notes from my session at the dealer reports:

    "The technician states left rear axle seal is leaking fluid Recommend to replace seal along with bearings. Parts and Labor $700.65 + Tax.

    Recommendation to replace pads (fluid absorption) and resurface rotors.
    Parts and Labor $470.00 + Tax"

    That would be another $1170.00 'hit.'

    Now, a month ago had my tires balanced and rotated at my regular mechanics shop. This was before the transmission debacle.

    Wouldn't the mechanic have noticed something? My guess is 'maybe' and mark it up to sh_ _ happens. I would give the mechanic - a non-dealer, but a trusted practitioner - the benefit of the doubt here. He doesn't handle transmissions, but when I first reported the tranny problems to him, from the sound of his voice, I heard "be careful - out there".

    Just to remind you, AAMCO said that it 'might' cost upwards of $2500. I guess that means it could also cost less .They wouldn't know until they ripped it apart. The advisor told me a rebuild tranny would take 5 - 7 business days and compared AAMCO service to the poor service I would get if I went to the dealer or dropped by a junk yard for an off the pile transmission. A salesman.

    On that note, I told him I needed to get a second opinion, he said: "what can i do to get your business today? " I really had no answer to that, none - but I did have a strong sense that I was in the wrong place.

    As I pulled out he offered to buy my car. He said the cost to him of the fix was lower than I would pay and that my car looked really good (flattery) Now that was the first really close-to-true statement he made. (But still flattery)

    Remember the car has 81,000 +/- miles, it is garaged here in the Big Apple, and at least 40 - 50% of our driving is highway. We use the car to go camping often with the Boy Scouts and visiting family far from this maddening place.

    My goal is to get 150,000 miles from this car. I know - it will take me another 8 or 9 years at current usage and newer cars would be far safer and more trouble free. someday, in a better economy, I might see the light and change my goals.

    Thanks for opportunity to drop my story off here and pick your brains. So far you guys have been great.

    Jeff in NYC
  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    a the dealer has a huge markup i do all my own work and have 230000 miles on my 2000 jgc with 4.7 engine no major repairs water pump alternator radiator belts brakes normal stuff
    i do use mobile 1 oil and change at 6000 miles or so still dont use any oil between changes so you should get lots miles yet
    thanks for posting update

  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10

    Is it possible for the oil leaking from the rear axle to pool under the car - say


    I told the advisor I would work on the car next week - if he felt there was little

    chance of a problem on the road. I have a 250 mile trip to take tomorrow. He gave

    no guarantees but gave me no reason to put off my trip.

    Thanks for your help.

  • tuggajbtuggajb Posts: 646
    its posable but is it by a wheel or in the middle of the jeep if in middle then pinion seal is leaking if by tire then wheel bearing seal
    your regular mech should be able to change wheel bearing and seal
    i also dont think trip should cause problem just brake safe dont tailgate
    how big of pool?

    tony b
  • chats72chats72 Posts: 10
    Pool? I will let you know in a day or so.

  • Sometimes I wish, wish, wish I lived in the states. Seems everybody gets ripped off there, and on USA manufactured motors. Maybe I should considder moving out there and setting up a shop giving value for money. Would that work in your country???
  • taffy3taffy3 Posts: 26
    'handsomerob' if you live in Mexico, just stay where you are. The 'gringos' have enough money to pay for their car repairs but we in Mexico (and I'm British) need good affordable mechanics. At the beginning of this year I had my '98 GLC gearbox rebuilt for 5,000 pesos. What's that 450 USD? In a few months I'll have it drained,.cleaned and refilled with new filters for about 50 USD. We need you guys here, in Mexico.
  • 51 K on this car and it just showed these codes..are the TCM or Shifter Bezel Assy covered under 7/70 ? Its runing fine NOW but..
  • I have a 42re trans (4x2).

    My previous trans would always pull out in 2nd gear shifting regular thru the rest. Rarely did it pull out in 1st gear. Eventually the trans went while on the highway. Vehicle trans shifted all over the place.

    I replaced my trans (keeping the old wiring) and found that it would not shift out of 1st gear. The kicker is that there is NO engine light on...... NOR did it produce any codes from my OBD2 scanner.

    I proceeded to unplug the speed sensor wire, run the engine. I then received an engine light and a fault code. I then erased the code(s). I then proceeded to do (1 at a time) the same to the governor wire connector/ neutral safety switch/TCM relay and the other 2 fuses. All produced the same effect. Engine light on with a fault code. i then erased them.

    Test drove the vehicle 6 blocks and it still didn't produce a fault or engine light.
    Problem...... It still doesn't want to shift out of 1st gear.

    Any help would be appreciated.
  • I had a 95 JGC with 42re did the samething and couldn't find out wat it was, the guy I sold it to is still running it? It bugs me wat it is, but I'm not sure?

    If you look at some of the previous posts, starting on page 22 where I was talking about my jeep, they have some good links that could help you. Good Luck!
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