Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevy Venture Engine Problems

1235714

Comments

  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Interesting....Hmmmmmmmm...

    Is there a coolant line to the throttle position sensor? I'm not looking under the hood right now but I don't think so...Perhaps you mean idle air control (IAC)...I've heard of them failing from time to time...but I don't remember a coolant line there either...only one I can think of being near some coolant is the MAP sensor...maybe I'm wrong?
    :confuse:
  • chaseschases Posts: 41
    accgmec,
    Glad i'm not going crazy. Reading about everyone else having trouble changing a thermostate or paying $400 had me wondering if i was crazy.

    I too changed my own thermostate easily on my own in my driveway with very little effort.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    You're not going crazy, its not a hard job...just time consuming, that's where the high price to a mechanic comes from - time....
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    It may indeed be a bad , that is 'clogged', fuel injector but so far I've used I think 4 or 5 of those plastic bottles labled 'fuel injector treatment'. STP brand in black bottles and one yellow bottle that I think said Prestone Fuel Injector Treatment.
    The missing and consequent stalling does not seem to be getting worse and maybe its even stalling less now, but it sure is not over.

    IF it persists much longer, I'm going to try removing the wire from the spark plug on that number one cylinder to see if it suddenly gets more noisy or not. I know a bad coil is rare, but its possible.
  • brianj4brianj4 Posts: 1
    how do I remove the lower rear bolt.
  • rockbazzrockbazz Posts: 7
    Hi 442dude. Sorry I some how missed your last repy.
    You're correct in the overheating statement. It does not go to RED, however it is going to the last white line which it never has done owning this vehicle. I was lucky to ever see it go to 1/2. I started taking notice to the temperature gauge once the issue started returning after the gas gauge was fixed and it continued to occur. Yes, I originally had the temp just go over 1/2 and the van performed its no start thing, until it cooled down for 10 minutes. This last occurance has taken triple the time to recover.. (eeks..) I will look to discuss with my dealer the area you describe as being a potential culprit. I thank you many times for your input!..
    I'll write back with details as they occur. I wonder if this also would be an area for the orignal person I responded to in regards to this issue. Maybe kill two birds here! :)
    Cheers.!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Good luck...let us know how it all turns out

    :shades:
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    That SES light continues to blink and there continues to be occasional stalling such as at a traffic light, but I've been told its running more quietly than it did before.
    It still makes an awful racket while backing up though.

    I conclude that the various fuel-injector treatments have helped but not yet cured the problem.

    I intend to continue with the two remaining bottles that I have and then will see what my options are.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Don't rule out the possibility that the injector may be faulty and not just clogged...pull the spark plug on the cylinder that's misfiring and see how it looks...might give you some info
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    >the injector may be faulty and not just clogged...
    That has been my secret fear: that if one or two bottles didn't cure it, ten additional bottles won't cure it either because its more than just a clogged nozzle.
    >pull the spark plug on the cylinder that's misfiring and see how it looks
    Well, I can look in the owner's handbook to figure out which cylinder is number one and I can compare that new plug to nearby and equally accessible spark plugs or just look at it and try to figure out if it looks clean or fouled or what. Its going to be a real project though ... no wrenches much less spark plug wrenches. A pair of pliers, a hammer, some socket wrenches ... thats about it.(And it would probably take me an hour just to find where those tools have wandered off to).
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    # 1 cylinder is in the back on the left...you usually have to tilt the engine forward to get to the ones in the back although some do it from underneath as well.

    Most service manuals have a picture guide to let you know what is going on with a spark plug based on what it looks like so you don't have to compare it to others...I'm sure you could find the pic online but getting to the plug would be your 1st challenge anyway. The condition of a spark plug tells a lot about how the engine is running...if the injector is leaking through, the plug will be full of carbon, if its clean & dry, its not seeing much fuel...

    The more I read, the more it tells me that you need to pull the plug and see what's going on in there to find out the issue without guessing any more...the other check would be to check the resistance of the injector with a multimeter to check its electrical condition...I don't have the specs in front of me, would have to look them up later...
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    >you usually have to tilt the engine forward to get to the ones in the back
    I have a feeling that this means loosening engine mounts or something like that and then re-tightening them. This might be beyond the limits of my tools-on-hand, physical strength and courage.

    >the other would be to check the resistance of the injector with a multimeter
    Now that sounds like its a bit less arduous a task. Does one do this while the engine is running? How do I get the fuel injector naked so it can be tested?
  • I bought my daughter a 2003 chevy venture with less than 50k miles. Ran fine first 5 months, now it is overheating (past half way). I took to a local repair shop I use, they felt it was the computer, fan does not come on soon enough, causing it to overheat, and I had to take to a dealer. Took to a dealer, they said the radiator was full of crud, had to be replaced and the water pump was leaking, price $1500.00. I had both replaced by my local guy who gave me the water pump and said nothing was wrong with it, still feels it is the computer not turning fan on in time, cost $779.00. Dealer says either the fan comes on or it doesn't. Now I have to take it back to the dealer to have it diagnosed again! The dealer said maybe the cause did not show up because of the water pump and radiator. Please, I acknowledge I know litte about cars and I am a woman so they think they can scam me, but that does not make sense. Any sugestions at this time? Can she continue to run the van past half without causing major problems?? Thank for any suggestions.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Hello,

    Forgive me if I type in random thoughts as there is a lot in your post to digest...I'll do my best to help...
    Overheating, needle past 1/2 way...How far? does it go into the red or is it hovering a little higher than you're used to?

    New radiator...hmmm...did your mechanic replace the thermostat when he replaced the radiator? It should be listed on the bill if he did...the thermostat could be hanging up and not opening all the way...the Ventures eat thermostats for lunch, yours might be bad...mostly labor to replace, inexpensive part, about 400 bucks cause of the labor to replace it...if the radiator was full of gunk it could have ruined the thermostat as well...did he flush the system?

    temperature sensor? there is a sensor that reads the temp of the antifreeze, could have been fouled by the gunk and reading incorrectly....

    does the fan ever come on? if it comes on, then its OK...the temp sensor tells it to turn on...see above

    turn the heat on full blast...does the needle come down? the gauges in the Venture have also been known to be fluky....

    I gave you a few questions...check it out and let me know...I think its OK to run the van as long as the needle stays out of the red but you should try to find out the problem in fairly short order....
  • Thanks for the reply, sorry should have given this information. 1st thing done was repalce the thermostat. That was before the radiator. Found the radiator was NOT flushed when the thermostat was changed, tried that before the radiator was replaced. The needle goes just past half way, never into the red. If you turn on the heater, it does go down. Should the thermostat be replaced again? I will take you suggestions to the mechanic, that I trust and ask him if these have been considered. Thanks for the response, hope this additional information sheds some more light!!
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Hi,

    First things first...I'm not a mechanic unless there's some beer and a shade tree around...but I do have a Venture and I do work on it so I only reply to problems if I have experience with them...just wanted to be up front...

    That being said, I have 3 thoughts/suggestions:

    1 - I don't think you've done any damage by driving it while the needle was just a tick above 1/2 way...its a little warmer than usual, but I don't think its a big deal.

    2 - I wouldn't be surprised if changing the thermostat again would cure your problem...the new thermostat could have gotten messed up by all of the gunk that was in there before the radiator was flushed or even while/after it was flushed if it wasn't removed when the flushing was done.

    3 - (and maybe less likely) After you refill the cooling system, there is a procedure to bleed out all of the air from the system. There are air bleeders by the thermostat housing and by the water pump which have to be opened to let all of the air out...perhaps this procedure was overlooked when the system was refilled?

    Good luck...let us know how you do...

    John :shades:
  • c3banjoc3banjo Posts: 1
    I've read through this blog and can offer this experience - the engine temp in my 2001 Venture has been fine for the last two years since having the intake manifold gasket replaced. I went as far as having the thermostat replaced but the problem came back. Dealer claimed to know squat and was completely clueless. A local mechanic new of the intake manifold gasket problem, found a small leak which went undetected due to evaporation and performed a pressure test which confirmed the problem. The van has been fine in that respect since.
    For the past two years the engine races in temps over 85 degrees. I posted this problem on the chevy board and opinion there is Idle Air Control valve. It's been 90 degrees plus in the NEast this past weekend and the van is racing again. The idle will reset sometimes when turning ignition off and on but its only a matter of time before it kicks up again. Last year I lost the small radiator hose and serp belt due in part to this excessive racing (71000 miles). Any insight into this problem is appreciated. I'll report back if replacing the IAC resolves this problem.
    On another note, I've had some goofy electrical problems with this van (fan control, rear AC vent door, stereo gets hot) but it does drive nice, has good pickup, gets good gas mileage and hauls a lot of gear - if you get a good one or can get past the BS, they're good vans. I have to keep it now - its worth nothing on trade-in!
  • rockbazzrockbazz Posts: 7
    ..well, it's finally gotten warm up here in Ottawa. We're in the 90's this past weekend. So, what happens, I drive with the AC on for about 30 mins, pull in the driveway and stop the car. The temp is under the 1/2 way mark. (shockingly). For fun, I started the van back up and it ran for about 10 secs and died. I couldn't start it back up again.
    The symptoms are just like running out of gas. An hour later, started up fine.
    Going back to the dealer with the idea that these folks need to do some digging in their database for similar issues. Count on the fact that I'll be asking them about the crankshaft position sensor!.. this is nuts - and I'm going on a long trip in 2 weeks and I don't want to take this van until its fixed.. I recalled last night that the dealer did run into the van stalling at their place a few months back in the winter even!.. They had to push it back into the garage and repair. They said it was a bad connection on the fuel pump. Well, only because the Van cooled down did it start again. - I'll be reminding them of this incident and that what they thought was the problem, actually wasn't !.. Stay tuned ...
  • I have a 98 venture that has developed a bad misfire. I scanned it and all 6 are misfiring at different times. You can be driving and try to hold a speed and it goes to misfiring. Speed up quick and the misfiring goes away. Tested ignition mod. and orielly says it is ok.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Have you ever changed plugs & wires?
  • Plugs and wires have about 25000 miles. Changed after we rebuilt the motor. We used ac delco wires and platinum plugs. The van has run fine for the whole time and all of a sudden it goes to miss firing. I changed the coils, cam sensor, crank sensor, and had the ignition module tested.
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    I'm in Florida so only deal with a very warm climate and my 2000 Venture's guage doesn't really climb that high but I find that when I exit the vehicle I can smell hot metal and the plastic container for the coolant is empty. No leak detected though.
    It is misfiring but its running fairly quiet.
    Anyone have ideas as to causation?
  • trinaktrinak Posts: 3
    ok my husband wrote on here before about misfiring and codes.. he checked all the spark plugs got the transnmission cleaner stuff.. and its still misfiring.,.. my friend cleared the code for me and it came up with a 742 code... does anyone know what that is?
    it seems to misfire off and on every few weeks runs like its gonna die when you are going between 0-55 mph... once you get above that it stops but the service engine light soon is still on..... any ideas would be great! i love my van just need it to run right?
    TrinaK
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    >742 code...does anyone know...
    p0742 - tcc (transmission converter clutch) solenoid stuck on,

    Good luck.
  • trinaktrinak Posts: 3
    ok does anyone know where the transmission converter clutch is? or how to fix it ?
    could that be all thats making it misfire and turn on the service engine light soon?
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    >does anyone know where the transmission converter clutch is or how to fix it?
    Well, I tried to find a more specific thread in which to respond to this question, but couldn't so I'll respond to it here and then perhaps if there is any further discussion someone can find a more relevant thread where this problem can be discussed and perhaps already has been discussed:

    Possibilities: Failure of the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid, the 2-3 Shift Solenoid and the Transmission Valve Body. If its the TCC solenoid then it will be 85.00 for parts and probably 300.00 for labor. Transmission Valve Body would be a bit less for parts but a good bit more in labor.
    Good luck to you.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Is your check engine light on? If so, get the codes read and post...
  • trinaktrinak Posts: 3
    ok where is the selonoid?? and how hard is it to put in yourself?
    is there a way to get to not to be stuck on?
  • fleastifffleastiff Posts: 52
    Beats me.
    I'd start with the fusebox and make certain 5, 11 and relay31 are fine. Look up the diagram to confirm which ones are TCC related incase its 33 rather than 31.

    If this is normally a 300.00 in labor job, I would hazard a guess that the tcc solenoid is not all that accessible.

    I've heard that a faulty tcc can cause damage from excessively hard shifting due to clutch slippage being detected by the pcm. With the high potential for transmission damage if driven like this for long, some shops may be unwilling to just install a new solenoid and then have to face potential complaints. So act promptly if possible. I really do NOT know much about this and you should find another thread that deals specifically with transmission shifting on a Chevy Venture or atleast someone who knows what he is talking about.
  • 442dude442dude Posts: 373
    Its not a DIY job unless you're really competent...and its not cheap if you have a mechanic do it...You have to pull the side off of the trans...the usual culprit is either the TCC or the PCS (pressure control solenoid) The second will cause harsh shifts especially when the trans is hot, its also accompanied by a whining noise that increases as speed increases. Unfortunately all too common in the Venture...

    If you're a gambling type, try this before you pay to have the solenoids replaced:

    Put in 1/2 a bottle of Lucas "transmission fix" and wait 2 weeks....I did it to mine and the harsh shifts went away...if you've never changed your trans fluid, change it and the filter first and wait 2 weeks...if that doesn't help, then try the Lucas stuff...mine was shifting harshly (most likely due to the PCS being bad) and my mechanic suggested a rebuild to the tune of $3000.00...I put in 1/2 a bottle of Lucas about 30,000 miles ago and haven't had a problem since...I don't know what made me even try it, I don't know why it worked, I don't even have a clue what's in it but for 10 bucks it might be worth a try...I'm not a mechanic unless there's a shade tree around and I've never done any transmission work other than changing fluid and filter...

    It got worse for about a week and then went away, never had a problem since...Our Venture is now at about 92,000 miles now...Who knows?

    Good Luck,
    John :shades:
Sign In or Register to comment.