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Help with mustang identification

mach2liquidmach2liquid Posts: 4
edited April 10 in Ford
I have a 65 66 fastback the driver door is not original to the car the data plate states it is a 65 coupe. and I cant seem to find information on decoding the serial number under the hood is there any way to find out the correct information on this car without the data plate?

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    The VIN is stamped on the left front inner fender (if you open the hood, stand over the wheel and bend down).

    The VIN won't tell you as much as the data plate of course but you can get some info from it.

    Here's a place to get a new door data plate:

    http://www.mustangdecoder.com/decoder.html

    and here's how to decode the VIN under the hood:

    http://www.autoinsurancetips.com/mustang_vin.htm

    So you should be all set!

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  • Mr Shiftright well this may be my delima as in the link you sent me for decoding the vin. I seem to be missing 2 numbers the first 2 mine starts at 09 has no year or plant digit.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    are you reading off the inner fender?

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  • yes driver side under hood about in the middle right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    Yep!

    Well bad luck I guess. I've seen the factory botch #s before.

    All I can recommend is that sometimes you can find a real Mustang nut who knows about VIN numbers found in unusual places. Also sometimes you can pay experts to research factory records for you, like the "Marti Report".

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  • Well after squinting real hard I made out the F. I am going to get some paint remover and see if it is hiding under the paint.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    Oh yeah, good idea...I hadn't thought about a "light stamping".

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  • The VIN will be on the fender, but sometimes you can get lucky....under the dash, attached to some wiring looms, is a build sheet.it'll tell you what your car came with. it can also be found under your seats.hope that helps.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,828
    mustang vin decoder

    don't know if it will work.
  • jpc01jpc01 Posts: 4
    I've got a 1968 Mustang...convertible, 6cyl 200, blue...8T03T196100
    It is in fair condition...runs, good ragtop, some rust
    I want to get it restored by restoration experts, and getting body work done is first priority
    I would like to get some guidance on the right way to go about choosing good group to do this and also not getting ripped off. I don't have unlimited funds!
    Car is currently in NE Florida
    I'd appreciate info or guidance to help scope this project.
    thanks, JPC
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,244
    Well good body work is generally pretty expensive, especially if rust is involved, so the primary thing to remember is to get a good estimate from whatever shop you choose and make sure that the costs don't run away. The problem with rust is that as you attack it, you may find other problems.

    Do you have some particular emotional attachment to this vehicle? The reason I ask is that being a '68 and being a 6 cylinder might indicate that you could just buy a nicer version of this car for less money than the cost to restore this one.

    As you may know, the 65-66s are worth more than the 67/68s, and a V8 is worth more than a 6 cylinder.

    I don't know how much of this restoration you intend to turn over to the "experts" but if you just hand a car over to have the body/paint/upholstery and mechanicals redone, it's going to cost you way more than the value of the car when you're done.

    If on the other hand, all you want is decent bodywork and paint and not a show quality type of work, and if you intend to do the mechanicals and interior yourself by using reproduction kits (or if the interior is good enough for you as is), then you might get away with $5,000 to $8,000 for paint and bodywork. (body taken down to bare metal, all trim removed)

    You can even get paint or bodywork for less, with just a taping over the trim and glass, and rust repair and a good sanding of the old paint, but then things get dicey and the car will not look as good in sunlight or under close inspection.

    So it depends on whether this is going to be a "driver" or a local show car that you might want judged.

    The best plan is to examine the body shop's other work and also talk to their customers. You shouldn't see things like overspray on the chrome or underside of the car, ripples along the flat sides of the car, and "orange-peel" texture on the paint.

    right now I would think you could find a nice clean '68 Mustang 6 cylinder convertible for about $15,000---$20,000, and a near-show car for $30,000.

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  • It has already been said that you could do better with a 65 or 66 mustang for the money you are going to spend in the 68. I happen know where there are two or three mustangs for around 15 to 20 k and they are the fastback models. I am in Oceanside, California so if you are in the mood for this type of mustang drop me a line and I will get you the address. If you like I can send you pics of cars if you have an interest.
  • 1. Under the hood the first digitwill be a star like this *
    2. The next number is the year of the car.
    3. The next number is Assembly plant code.
    4. The next two numbers and a letter
    5. The next two number is the body serial code.
    6. The next letter is the color code
    There are more to the code but this what you will need I think. hopefully I did not get it out of order.
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