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Subaru Forester Electrical Problems

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Comments

  • 2tall12tall1 Posts: 3
    I actually replaced the rotors about a year or so ago because I was having the same problem. Put everything back together and bam, it came back even worse. I have had the rotors grinded down and inspected buy two different machanichs and they just was to keep doing the same thing. Plus, at high way speeds it still shudders. Perplexed. I guess I'm just going to have to bite the bullet and pay for someone to fix the whole thing and get a warenty attached to it. Arg, I wish I new more about cars. :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    What is the issue associated with this? If you give us some more in depth info we can help.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If they were already re-surfaced and they still shudder, it's probably time for new rotors. Last time I was at the auto supply store with my sister getting brake pads, we asked the price for rotors just out of curiosity, and IIRC they were only $150 or so.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    $150 is a lot for stock rotors w/o install.

    I never get rotors resurfaced, if they are at a point where they are that bad, then it's time to replace them. A relatively cheap solution considering they are your brakes.

    I would say get the rotors, pads and fluid replaced, can't hurt and should be ~$500 even using "expensive" parts.

    Also make sure the torque on the lugnuts is correct at about 85lbs if they are overtightened they can also shake.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I think that was for a pair, so $75 a pop. I'd replace them in pairs no matter what.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    $150 a pair is pretty high. I think for the Mountain Rotors we charge like $90 or $100/PAIR

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I didn't shop around. We just asked the guy behind the counter when he was looking up the pads. We only changed her pads, as the rotors were OK (still are).

    Dad's heading out on a 2400 mile road trip, so I helped do a little check up. We changed the brakes, bled them. The only other thing I told him to get was new tires, and he just put those on two.

    Bon Voyage. Off he goes on Sunday to NC, then GA, FL, and back.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Nice stuff.

    I've been getting bad reports on the C320 so now it's back to LGT or 3.0R I can't ever make up my mind. I'm on the Fence with you Juice!

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'll move right over and make room for ya. :shades:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Thanks mate! It is a nice view from the fence here though. :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, you can see every option you have for purchases while you slowly decide to waffle for a few more months like me. :D
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Throw in the new impreza now too. Yippie another choice!

    -mike
  • I was driving through a rough patch of the expressway and heard a sound like something had fallen in the backseat, then a sound like something in the trunk rolled and hit the back of the rear door. Then, a sound like something kicked up under the car and slammed into the car. I thought it was just a rock or something from the roadwork and just kept driving. Then, as I was getting off the expressway and when I switched my turning signal, it made its normal clicking sound for a second, then stopped. My signals were no longer working! I went to roll down the windows to make a hand signal and the power windows weren't working! Radio continued to work, but the speedometer, mileage reader and temp. weren't working, but the car drove fine. Hazards worked, too. Then heading back home on the expressway, there were no problems until I hit some traffic and had to stop and go. When going I felt a little hesitation. Off the expressway, the hesitation became more regular. Knocking sound when I braked. Also, noticed a clicking sound as the car idled. Finally got to our garage, and the knocking sound returned, big knocking, then lots of hesitation. Parked, turned the key to the off position, but it wouldn't go all the way. Key was stuck!! I tried to start the car again and it was just a ticking sound, no sound of the car trying to start. Later that night, I went back to the car and started it. It tried to start, lights started flickering, but wouldn't start. I went into the off position and was finally able to get the key out. What could the problem be? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I've spent so much money on problems with this car and I'm at my wit's end! :confuse:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like dead battery and/or alternator.

    -mike
  • dublggdublgg Posts: 1
    Its not a great idea to cut rotors more than once as once they are too thin they overheat and warp....but new rotors should take a light cut because if they have been stored improperly they may be warped coming out of the box! Another thing that may have been overlooked is wheel balancing...out of balance wheels will cause the same symtoms as disc/rotor run out....
  • I bought a 99 Subaru Forester a few months ago and when I was cleaning it the other day the parking lights came on. I tried everything I could think of to turn them off but they stay on unless I pull the fuse from the main fuse box. Any ideas on what is causing this or a cheap fix?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 8,396
    edited June 2011
    Long shot here, but there is a switch for the parking lights located on the top of the steering column. If that switch is on, the lights will stay on at all times, even with the key out of the ignition. You may have hit that while cleaning and didn't even realize it! It is a very non-standard feature, so it is easily overlooked.
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