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Nissan Quest Brakes

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Comments

  • exploder750exploder750 Posts: 159
    I bought Raybestos Advanced Technology (upgrade from standard quality) front rotors and Raybestos Advanced Technology ceramic pads front and rear from Rockauto.com, $184 bottom line shipped. Installed them this past weekend, and with approximately 51,000 miles on the previous set of Raybestos pads they appeared to have about 1/4 life remaining before going totally metal to metal. So, not bad compared to the OEM pad life. The front rotors had a couple of hot spots on them, and the steering wheel did shake a bit when applying the brakes, so it's certain they were warped. the stopping is smooth as silk now and we'll see how long these rotors last. the van has 139,000 miles and is nearly paid off, we'd like to run it well over 200,000 miles.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The pads are not the problem with my 2004 Quest. it's the rotors. It seems like each year I'm replacing either the front or rear rotors. I currently have 80,000 miles on mine. I just want to reach 100k without a major repair.
  • delthekingdeltheking Posts: 1,152
    Yes,as dtown said-the problem with the 04+ Quests are the rotors.. So did your Raybestos rotors also last 51k miles?? If they did ,then that is a very good number..I had my rotors last replaced at 56k miles.Now I have 70k miles and these are OEM ones...I am just hoping they last atleast another 20k-25k miles.. So any other problems you have had with your Quest recently??
  • exploder750exploder750 Posts: 159
    Actually, the 51K miles were for Raybestos pads only. We bought the van used with 49K miles (it now has 139,000 miles) and when I replaced the pads the first time 51K ago, I left the rotors as is; speculating that they had been turned at least once. Doing that, it was about 10k ago that I started to notice a slight shake in the steering wheel when braking. It's smooth as silk now with the new Raybestos rotors up front, same original rotors in back.

    Other than that, no other problems to speak of. I did a radiator drain and refill, and at 139K the original antifreeze was still like new. There is a nickel sized rust bubble forming on the wheel well just to the front of the right rear wheel. Pretty disappointing,
  • vrmvrm Posts: 303
    My 2000 Quest GXE failed the state safety inspection due to rear brakes.

    The price difference between genuine Nissan brake shoe pads and generic 3rd party pads is more than 100%.

    I hope my brakes dont start squealing if I use brake pads bought from Auto Zone.
    Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,193
    How many miles? My '99 just rolled over 138,000 yesterday and it's still on the original brakes.

    We don't have inspections here otherwise mine would be in the shop. My ebrake died last month, so I'm due for a complete brake job back there I'm sure.

    I'd go with aftermarket pads too. You know Nissan is just sourcing them from some outfit anyway, and just putting their brand on them. Who knows if the OEM ones are really any better.

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  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    To recap the history and update on recent brake status:

    33626 miles (11/19/2006):
    original front rotors warped
    installed front Frozen rotors
    installed front Raybestos QS ceramic pad
    installed rear Raybestos QS ceramic pad
    kept the factory rear rotors and did not machine them

    54000 miles (11/02/2008):
    rear rotors started warping and causing the back end to rumble when braking

    57400 miles (3/8/2009):
    front Frozen rotors warped causing shimmy when braking
    installed front Raybestos Advance Technology rotors
    installed front Raybestos Professional Grade Ceramic pads (Raybestos replaced the QS model with PG)

    64250 miles (4/24/2010):
    the rear rotors are really warped at this point but they were the original factory ones that never got machined - ever
    installed rear Raybestos Advance Technology rotors
    installed rear Raybestos Professional Grade Ceramic pads

    At this point, I have Raybestos Advance Technology rotors, and Raybestos PG Ceramic pads on all 4 corners, front rotors are still silky smooth, and good braking with very little wear on the pads. With the new brakes on the rear, the entire van stops like the first day I got it. For those of you who is not familiar with Raybestos, they have been around for a very long time in the brake business. I have been using their products for 20 years now. I find their stuff to meet or exceed the performance factory brakes, and very affordable. As for the ceramic pads, the main benefit is less brake dust. I purchased them from Rockauto.com.

    My thoughts on the Frozen rotors are way overpriced and more hype then anything else. For the price of a set of Frozen, you can get 3 sets of Raybestos. My other concern is where they are sourcing these rotors. I don't think they manufacture the rotors themselves. They just dunk them in a frozen bath and then charge you 3X the price.

    For those of you who are DIYs, the rear caliper bracket bolts are a lot easier to remove than the fronts when removing the rotors. You will however need to jack the van up, then jack the rear suspension to get access to the lower caliper bolt.

    I am feeling pretty good with the setup I have right now. I will keep you guys posted with any future findings.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,193
    I should clarify that I'm on my original rear brakes.

    Any issue with the parking brake setup back there?

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  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    edited April 2010
    The parking brake should not have any wear on it since it's only used to hold the wheel in place when the van is parked. It should never be used when the van is in motion unless you accidentally drove around with your e-brake engaged. Also many people don't use the e-brake in an automatic vehicle when parked on a flat surface. Mine definitely looked new. I didn't bother making any adjustments to e-brake.

    Here are some pics showing the removal of the rotor and exposing the e-brake.
    OLD ROTOR
    image
    E-BRAKE
    image
    E-BRAKE CLOSE UP
    image
    PICTURE SHOWING JACK USED TO PUSH SUSPENSION UP
    image
    FINISHED
    image
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    cirruss: Great pictures! I remember when you bought those Frozen rotors. I thought they would prove to be expensive. Unfortunately, I think the 2004 Quest are cursed with bad brake design. I generally go with whatever my mechanic is comfortable with. I think he uses Napa Gold (or something like that).
  • cirrusscirruss Posts: 87
    Well, after putting about 7,000 miles on the front Raybestos Ceramic PG pads, I started getting this grinding sound from the front just before coming to a full stop. The pads were still in very good condition and I tried to clean them once but the grinding sound got worst as the weeks past. The braking seem to be fine but even my wife started complaining about the noise.

    I tried contacting Raybestos and spoke to a somewhat unfriendly customer rep and was told there is NO warranty on the pads unless it was installed at an authorized shop. My own conclusion after doing some internet research is my rotors and/or pads are glazed. This happens when they pads overheat and puts a glazed coating on both the pads and rotors. This could have happened when my rear rotors were badly warped for the past year and making the front brakes do all the work and causing them to overheat.

    Today I went and picked up a set of Nissan OEM brake pads at the dealer. I know factory pads are usually good but overpriced. I was surprised that these pads were stamped with Akebono on them and Made in Japan. The dealer list price was $81 but I had a $25 off coupon from that dealer. After comparing the Raybestos PG Ceramic and the Nissan pads, I noticed the Raybestos was smaller and a bit more loose fitting. The Nissan pads had a much better fitment. The only thing is Nissan pads don't come with shims, so make sure you install them. I had kept the shims from the original set of pads that came with the car when I bought it. I reused the Raybestos front rotors and ended up sanding down the entire surface to remove any transferred material from the old pads. The short drive I had today seem pretty good. Will keep you guys updated.

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  • bkempbkemp Posts: 6
    I've had a lot of luck with drilled slotted rotors on my Quest. I replaced the front drivers side wheel bearing and the shimmying is completely gone. I thought it was the rotors - but replacing them only helped temporarily - which makes no sense to me.

    I love our van and I wouldnt trade it for any other. It's pushing 90k and it still drives great!
  • Well, after 20,000 miles my Raybestos Advanced Technology front rotors are causing the steering wheel to shimmy. That's disappointing. Considering drilled & slotted rotors this time.
  • exploder750exploder750 Posts: 159
    Switched the Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors (barely a year old and warped) plus the original equipment rear rotors (turned once, now badly warped) for new Centric drilled and slotted rotors. The rear ceramic pads (barely a year old) were about half life, plus one of them had worn unevenly, so I installed new ceramic pads in the rear. A 2004 model, the van now has 168,000 miles.
  • jack_tjack_t Posts: 1
    Hi... just bought a 2007 Nissan Quest from the dealer, just off lease with @35K. Took the car to my mechanic and was told that the car had the following problems... engine mount loose, twisted brake hose, belt well worn out, brake pads less than 50%, with brakes pulsating when applied. The dealer said all these things were checked prior to the sale and deemed ok and it's just wear/tear... my question is... ENGINE mount worn out at less than 36K?! I've had cars with over 100K and never had engine mount problems. Twisted brake hose is normal wear/tear? this doesn't make sense to me.

    What are your thoughts please?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,615
    Not sure what a "loose" engine mount means, nor a twisted brake hose.

    If the mount is broken/torn, that would be unusual for 35K but if a bolt is loose, that could have come like that from the factory for all we know.

    A "twisted brake hose" would disable your brakes entirely, so I kinda doubt that's for real.

    A worn belt, 50% brakes, possibly warped rotors, those could all be the result of either normal wear or bad driving habits from the previous owner.

    All in all, I'd say your only really legit gripe here is with the mount and the warping of the rotors, if they are "out of true". Warped rotors should be part of a safety check.

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  • tjshantjshan Posts: 28
    I have a 2006 quest with auto side doors...car has 60K mi...last year, the passenger door motor jammed..the dealer said it was not repairable, and the only fix was to cut the cable...I complained to Nissan and they had the dealer fix it under warrenty ...very nice of them...now, the drivers side door motor has jammed...does anyone know how to get to the sliding door motors...is this a common problem? any help would be appreciated.

    Tom
  • sopecreeksopecreek Posts: 203
    edited June 2011
    1. When I brake, the steering wheel vibrates severely but only when going over 40 mph. I was told by the dealer that front lower control arm bushings are cracked and controls arms are loose and need to be replaced. I know about the Quest brake issue. Is this vibration due to the control arm or brakes or both?

    2. How serious should I treat the control arm issue? It's $700+ replacement job due to 4+ hour labour the dealer says.

    3. (Not exactly brake question) The dealer recommended and replaced spark plugs at around 105K miles. How can I tell if they really changed the plugs? Engine was running fine before and after the change, so I have no way of telling. Any simple way to verify?

    Thank you!
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    I've read on other forums about people fixing the power sliding doors by taking off the door panel and replacing the cable. From their descriptions, it's a doable repair.

    Here's the discussion

    http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/quest/17237-looking-sliding-door-manual.html
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    The lower control arms is a bad design. The bushings are not serviceable and you need to buy the entire control arm. That's the bad news. The good news is replacing the lower control arms can be done by anyone. I had mine done about 2 years ago. I purchased them online through a Nissan dealership and had my mechanic install them. There is no aftermarket for these parts and they can only be purchased through a dealership. Mine cost under $250 for each arm and about $100 for labor. I think the control arms may be cheaper now. Do a search for Nissan parts.

    You can probably go a little bit with bad bushings (few months). You'll here some noise when you go over a bump but the control arm itself is fine. It took me several months before replacing mine.

    The only way to check the spark plugs is get under the hood and pull one to see if it's new.

    If you feel/see the steering wheel vibrate and shake, it's likely the front rotors. If you simply feel the van vibrating and it appears to be coming from back, it's the rear brakes warping. I don't remember the control arms causing vibration.

    Good luck.
  • sopecreeksopecreek Posts: 203
    edited June 2011
    Thank you so much. I have spent enough money fixing stuff on this van. The most expensive one being the catalytic converter replacement. Others include engine mount (covered by extended warranty), one wheel bearing hub (it's a sealed design, cannot repack the ball bearings), front and rear brake rotors. I'm just thankful that engine and transmission are troublefree and the sliding door and rear lift gate never had any problem. Tons of squeaks now, but I still really like the way it drives.
  • So far so good on the drilled & slotted rotors with ceramic pads on the wife's 2004 Quest...no warpage in 15,000 miles. Just now replaced the left rear wheel bearing...an easy fix. The van now has 184,000 miles.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,915
    Just had to replace the front brakes. Each year it's the front or back.

    Anyway.....how did you know the rear wheel bearing needed replacing? I have this deep rumbling sound coming from the rear of the vehicle after 20 mph. It gets louder with speed and levels off at 55-60 mph. I think it's a wheel bearing; mechanic can't find anything wrong but admits it could be in the early stages.
  • exploder750exploder750 Posts: 159
    I had the same issue...rumbling in the back. If you can narrow down which side the noise is coming from, it's worth the effort to replace the bearing, plus very easy to do for a do it yourselfer.
  • Hi all,
    No issues for years with our Quest, we still love it, but, it's getting old, 9 years old now.
    I'm replacing the rotors and pads on all four wheels.
    I purchased Centric rotors and pads.
    They sent me pads that are 1mm too thick, with the net result being a fit that is too tight.
    But, I'm amazed at how easy this brake job has been.
    Anyone else had problems with the pads being too thick?

    2004 Quest SE, 115,000 miles
    CD player works 'sometimes'
    LCD mileage indicator doesn't always display clearly
    No other issues (knock on wood)
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