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VW Jetta Electrical Problems



  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    A common problem on these cars, that would have those symptoms, is the ignition coil. The plastic housing can develop a hairline crack that will let moisture in. You can test this theory by spritzing the coil with some mist when the car is running and see if it starts to stumble or dies. I think the coil is on the firewall (that is where it was on my son's 1996, IIRC).
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    edited March 2010
    If problem is the coil... use WD40 as temporary fix... after all the reason WD40 was invented for the military was to displace water on wet ignition systems. (WD = Water Displacer)

    As a longer-term fix, to avoid paying for a $200 ignition-coil... Some folks have reported good luck in sealing the hairline cracks in the ignition-coil. This may get you a couple more years out of the coil.
  • jcfraynejcfrayne Posts: 1
    did you ever find out the problem, my daughters car has same issue and I replaced the fuel pump relay with no luck
  • aukid07aukid07 Posts: 2
    It rained hard yesterday, the car would not start. I went outside and sprayed the ignition coil with WD-40 as suggested, and sure enough, it started right up. I'd give that a shot if I were you.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    I am glad that I was able to help you isolate the problem.

    A lot of people dont even know that the WD in WD40 means "Water Displacer"

    It is said that the inventer of WD40 went thru 39 other formulas before coming up with the current one....(the 40th try) Then after all that work, the Milatary awarded the contract to another bidder.

    Concenquently, not being a quitter, he marketed the stuff as "WD40" to the public and it has done pretty well.
  • shashi13shashi13 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Jetta GLS, and when the accelerator is pressed, the dash backlight, the speedometer, gas level indicator, temperature indicator, radio all lose power. When the car is stationary everything is normal. Could some one please help me with this, I appreciate any input.
  • bobbi141bobbi141 Posts: 1
    At 47,000 miles electrical problems started with drivers side door...window was open and would not close..outside temp 15F....drove 60 miles and found after getting home, interior lights and headlights and mirror lights would not shut off,,,,11:00 pm,,,had to disconnect battery. VW replaced harness in drivers door ($350.00) two weeks ago...Today, rear left passenger door locks do not work from inside but get outside and door opens but not with keyless entry....wipers go on for no reason at all and alarm goes off in garage in the middle of the day or worse,,,,,at night....
  • che02che02 Posts: 1
    Hi i bought my son a 2000 jetta,it has been a total nightmare it has 160k miles.Well here are all the problems,new battery 2mo.ago starter 2mo.ago now it won't turn over, if you let it sit for a couple of days it will start but after a while it won't start,and now the windows,interior lights,wipers won't work
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    Check if that vehicle has the dreaded Coolant Migration problem
  • ops2ops2 Posts: 6
    Two or three times now in the last several weeks when I've turned on the radio there is nothing on AM. Static from 550-1700. FM seems a bit fuzzy, but not sure. CD-plays fine, Sirius worked fine. Cycling the power on the radio did nothing. Worked fine the next time I started the car. Going in for first 10K here shortly, so will bring it up, but was wondering if anyone had had/heard of similar issues. (This is the non-nav system set up)
  • vwdawgvwdawg Posts: 162
    Hello All: I need to replace a bad right side front upper control arm. The nut on the pinch/clamp bolt came free easily, but it seems the bolt itself is completely frozen (eight winters of Minnesota road salt tend to do that). I've soaked the bolt with PB Blaster, tried turning the head of the bolt with a big ratchet, hit the threaded end with a hammer, and even heated the bolt with my MAPP torch (protected the rubber seal on the good rear bushing with a wet rag, of course). All to no avail. I've now wrapped the entire assembly with a small rag and it's been soaking in PB Blaster for several days...hoping for the best. Has anyone else found a good solution for this ugly problem? Appreciate any comments. vwdawg
  • aj916aj916 Posts: 1
    The driver's door does not activate the door ajar panel light. All the other doors do. I need to find out what activates the door ajar indicator because none of the manuals I've looked through references it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,080
    edited April 2010
    There are 3 micro-switches INSIDE the door mounted on the latch/lock mechanism. It is not uncommon for one of the micro-switches to become unsolderd from vibration. These These micro-switches are BURRIED inside the door and are not easy to access.

    There are reams of information about this on the net if you do a search. Here is a link to detailed photos of the door interior.
  • alohaveedubalohaveedub Posts: 6
    edited May 2010
    Jetta has about 52k miles on it, no problems and regular maintenance done. About a month ago it started to stutter a bit on starting and then the automatic window buttons would not work for ~30s. Then the radio started not working for same short period of time after starting. After 30s everything is fine. Just recently the clock started displaying completely wrong times and the "blackout" period on the door panel and radio last longer. I did just clean some oxidation off the + terminal on battery which had been there a while. But that cleaning did not change the symptoms. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • gaals9999gaals9999 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my '97 jetta suddenly. did you ever get any reply or information on what to do? I cannot find any connection between these two systems on the electrical schematics, so I am at a loss for now.

  • shashi13shashi13 Posts: 2
    If you have the same problem that I was having, the voltage regulator on your alternator is defective. When you accelerate, the charging voltage on the battery should not exceed 13 to 14 Volts. I was getting 22. One way to confirm that it is the regulator would be to turn on all your heated seats and anything that is electrical inside the car. Now if the dash lights and radio remain on, you need a regulator for your alternator. I did not want to take a chance so I replaced the alternator. Everything works fine now.
    Hope this helps.
    If you are able to disassemble the regulator, it is worth a try to just order that. but that would be your decision
  • I have a 97 Jetta, for the last couple of years the door losw were broken, the tumblars would come out with thekey! The other day the alarm engaged, I tried using the interior door lock button, that did not work I disconnedted the battery and that did not reset the alarm.
    Does any one have any ideas on what I can do.
    Is there a way to disconnedt the alarm so that I can start my car.
    any help would be much appriciated.
  • I seem to be having similiar problems with the exception of the radio. I have 39,950 miles on mine. Were you able to figure out what the problem was/is?
  • new battery solved it. I had some corrosion on the positive batt terminal for perhaps 20k miles. I would clean it, and it would come back, gradually. It was a leak of some sort on the batt. Have someone check your batt amperage, it should be rated for 600 cca. Mine tested at 176 cca. New batt solved it.
  • jmr813jmr813 Posts: 6
    I have had similar issues appear on my 2006 Jetta 2.5 (~45k miles) recently. I took it to the dealer for something completely unrelated, and when I picked it up they said they had replaced my ignition coils as part of the recall. It was only after they replaced the ignition coils that I started noticing the 'stutter' on startup, and even then it's not every time. It's maybe every 4th or 5th time I start the car. Like you said, it stutters and takes a few seconds, but if I just keep the key turned, it starts. Then, as you mentioned there is an approximately 30 second delay before any window buttons work, and the radio always comes back on in CD mode, no matter what it was in before.

    This is going to make me sound stupid - but is the battery corrosion and amperage easy to check? I am SO not good with cars and pretty much take mine to the dealer or repair shop for everything. I just assumed it was related to the ignition coil replacement since it didn't start until after that, but your post describes my problem almost exactly, so I'm having second thoughts!
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