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Mazda 626 Starting Issues

2

Comments

  • I did resolve my issue. It was the alternator that went bad, as it took a few days to finally quit working all together. But prev I had other issues the idle air control valve can go bad which can cause a no start issue. Which I hope youdont have cuz they are expensive, cheapest one I found was Autozone. Also the ignition system is located in the Distributor which cant be taken out and replaced you ahve to replace the entire thing which I bought a new one on ebay. Funny thing is is that I kept getting a idle air control valve code so I replaced that and it wasnt even the problem. It was the distributor whcih threw out a ghost code and the ghost code happen to be the idle air control valve so that was $250 wasted. The distributor I bought on ebay for $125 and it fixed the problem that I first had with the car. And by the way with that problem it would start sum days and others it wouldnt. It would act up when sitting at a stop sign and I would have to give it extra gas to keep it running. I wish I could help you with your problem, as it does sound like a fuel pump problem.
  • cp651cp651 Posts: 1
    Hi, did you troubleshoot your problem? I'm having a similar issue. Something in there keeps clicking , the cd-player seems to be looking for a cd, and this is it. No engine noise, other than the clicks that repeat as long as the key is on. Thanks.
  • I had a diagnostic test run on the car. The problem was the fuel injector processor. No fuel getting to the engine to start the car. The test and repairs were done at Firestone to my dismay. After repairs done and $417 later, I still have the problem. However, now it starts at random. Before it wasn't starting at all. I'm afraid I am going to be forced to take my car to the dealer to find out the REAL problem. Sorry, hope you are more successful than me.
  • Yes I did. In my case, I found the starter, silver soup can looking thing that can be seen if you stand on the passenger side at the rear of the engine compartmnent and look toward the bottom of the engine on the driver side. Had a metal stick, tapped the starter and it started. This worked intermittently for a few months until I finally had to replace the starter.

    Now have a new problem though, battery good, turn the key to on and all the dash indicator lights light up. If I turn to try to start, those lights go to black and not a sound of trying to start. Same thing happens if I press the brake pedal or try to turn on the headlights.
  • have you check the fuel pump relay and the distributor and the injectors use a multi meter and make sure they are all getting signal
  • have you check the relay box in the front relay fuse box in the engine
  • renemrenem Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem (98 Mazda 626 automatic) where I would drive my car to a destination and when I'd get back into it there was no juice from the battery. No lights, not even a click when the key was turned. It was frustrating since the car was running for at least 20 minutes before I stopped and the battery was fully charged. The first time it happenned it was a loose positive terminal connection on my battery (I also scrapped it clean). The next time it was the negative connection - which I also scrapped clean and wrapped the wire with electrical tape. I haven't had any problems since. Neither terminal appeared to be loose at either time and I couldn't move them by hand.
  • my 95 626 2.0 died 3 days after i replaced the alt and battery it was after i got home 4 work 30 miles was home 4 15 min then went 4 dinner made it 1 mile and died i have fuel pressure spark aand my timing belt is ok i called the parts store and they dont list a crank sensor for this car it has been at the shop 4 a month now and we are baffeled
  • My 626 2002 has a similar starting problem. Car turns over but randomly will not start. Found it is important to turn the key into the off position before trying again. Cranking and cranking yields nothing when this happens. We don't drive the car much and the battery tested a little weak in the cold. Charging the car battery at night would always result in a good start. Car battery would accept a charge for about 30 minutes at night. I upgraded the battery to a non standard size I got a Diehard Platinum with 100 extra amps. This new battery charges so fast, it won't ever accept a charge at night. Car worked great for 3 weeks then just happened again. Started ok on a very cold morning, but later going home for lunch another story. The key off and on trick worked. Battery would still not accept a charge when I got home, so not the battery. Thoughts, Distributor or fuel check valve?
  • I am still experiencing the starting problems. I took the car to Firestone and they replaced a fuel processor regulator, which did not resolve the issue. I am leaning toward the fuel pump at this time. I called Mazda service dept and was told it could be the fuel pump going out which accounts for it starting occassionally. If that works, I keep you posted.
  • New battery, New Fuel filter, New Ignition coil, New plugs , New wires, While traveling on the highway engine jerked and than stopped. Had friend bring ignition coil, replaced ignition coil, Mazda fired right up. Drove about 10 miles car stop again, had friend go and get another ignition because first one was loose. Unable to start car, first time car sat fro about 2 hours, second time car sat about an hour. Not able to start.....any ideas?
  • Checked timing no problems, checked fuel pump, still unable to start. Economy light stas on and the hold light blinks on and off
  • scoyotescoyote Posts: 1
    It's either a problem with spark or fuel----are you getting spark at the plugs? Chances are that you have spark to but not thru your ignition distributor--and i believe you can just replace the igniter component. This goes out easily in an overheat condition ? If you are sparking at the plugs--start looking at the fuel delivery end
  • renee14renee14 Posts: 1
    I bought a 1990 mazda 626 lx from a friend that had it and the fuel pump went out and they sold it to me. It had set for over a year. I have put a new fuel pump, new battery, spark plugs and wires, and a new value cover on it. It still will not start. You can poor gas into the hose that goes to the injector and it will start and run for about 3 or 4 minutes just enough time to pull that gas and then that is it.

    Can anyone help me please?
  • The ignition system for a lot of mazdas like my 1993 626 is located in the distributor. When it heats up it will lose its connection and your car will not start. Some times it will reconnect again, most times it doesnt. And I do know on mine and most Mazdas you cant just replace that part of the ignition system. You have to replace the entire distributor. I got a new one on ebay for $125 compared to $200+ at your auto parts store or $400+ and a mazda dealership. Rockauto.com is also cheaper than your auto parts store. So if you guys are in doubt about starting issues check that first or have your mechanic check it. (Mine also thru out a ghost code for a idle air control valve. Which I replaced and didnt need to since it was my ignition system was bad, so that was a waste of $300) Hope that helps folks
  • m__m__ Posts: 2
    change the coil, and the Crank position sensor.
    likley it is the position sensor, but best to do both at the same time.

    M.
  • m__m__ Posts: 2
    get an after market transmission cooler added, should fix you issue quickly.

    about $450.00-500.00 at a reputable shop.

    M.
  • pbhfpbhf Posts: 1
    I have the same thing happening on a '94 626 including turning key off and back on trick. I suspect either fuel pump, relay, or computer. Did you ever find out what was causing your problem?
  • The relay was replaced 1st, then the fuel pump, then the ignition and another part relating to the ignition. The problem is solved. The ignition was the last repair and it works great now.
  • Just enrolled into this website. I have same model year, and similar situations. Wonder, you have got your problem resolved since May. What I have, was intermittently unable to re-start. It usually starts up after a couple hours rest. If I stopped at a store for a short errands. It'll act up when I returned. The engine would cut-off after a roughly 50 yards from the parking. I won't start unless sitting for a couple of hours. I swapped the fuel pump relay and main relay, also replaced ignition coil. It seems not getting any improvement. Wish, some fresh idea can be exchanged.
  • i have a 1996 mazda 626. car was working fine i went to clean the the acid on my battery, then when i went to leave it wouldnt start unless i pushed started it. thoiuight maybe i just drained the batt while cleaning the terminals but it didnt start later that night. took it to a autozone had them test my batt and starter said both were fine that it was a connection problem. said that sometimes terminals and cables go bad when acid sits too long on them. so i replaced the terminals and still no start. i get power to the car such as my radio and everything but when i go to start it it wont turn over or anything. wont make a sound. batt stays charged for about ten minutes then depleates but i still can turn the headlights on. any help would be great. thanks!
  • 86mazda62686mazda626 Posts: 1
    Had a similar problem with my 86 626. Check the relay switch near the battery...push all connectors close to battery together...sometimes that's the problem. Also had a part close to the distributor replaced by a mechanic. Hope that helps.
  • bamabeachbamabeach Posts: 2
    The ignition crancks, it just wont start. I can smell fuel... what's the problem. It's been sitting for 2 months, just replaced belts so it would run. Had to replace battery. Ran for a few days... now this! It's the same fuel that was in it 2 months ago... half a tank when it died. Any suggestions would be great!
  • gloving40gloving40 Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 mazda 626 and got power to the inside of the car but nothing to the engine and the key will click but nothing else. i cleaned the terms and nothing but got everything to the radio and wipers and a/c but not to the enginre help me with this to figure out driving me crazy.
  • ebuteraebutera Posts: 1
    Try using starter fluid to get it going, then test for fuel being delivered (fuel pump, injectors, etc) and spark. Might simply be there isn't enough fuel to get it going.

    And hope it doesn't trigger the "hold" light to flash...if it's an atx. Mine starts flashing if I look at the dash sideways!
  • My boyfriend changed the alternator in my Mazda 626 not too long ago as we were experiencing some problems. We then had to get a new battery and everything seemed fine for a while. Then i noticed that the car would start fine in the mornings and then intermittently during the day (when the car was warm), i had to press the gas pedal in order to get the car to start. Whenever I do this i smell gas inside the car, then it dissappates.

    I dont knwo what the problem could be. About 6 months ago we got a replacement fuel tank as there was ac rack in our old one.

    I also just posted anotehr question asking why oil would be pooling on top of the engine near the spark plugs...any help on either problem would be much appreciated!
  • 2good2good Posts: 1
    Photobucket

    http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb117/2goodeyestoo/DSC00001-34.jpg

    have something to with it?

    I have a Mazda 99 ES and the car will not start. It will crank but not fire. My dad placed a working fuel pump and now it will not pump fuel, we have the green relay at the EGI. It was getting a spark the other day, but now nothing. There was an after market security alarm connected but that was removed. The picture I am showing is a ground wire that was connected to the wall and we are not sure what other part. Would this ground wire have something to do with the car not starting? Thank you for everyone for helping me.
  • When trying to start my 626 frequently the key turn doesn't seem to activate the starter. However if I push the key in very firmly the car starts just fine. The problem seems to be getting worse and I'm afraid we'll get stranded sometime. Any suggestions would be very welcome. All electrics appear to be normal and the battery never struggles.

    Thanks
  • I am working on a 93 v6 mazda 626 that will not start, took out a spark plug, it fires nice bright blue, took off fuel line at fuel rail has fuel when cranking, checked throttle position sensor, checked crankshaft position sensor down by pulley,Haynes manual shows wiring for 4 and 6 wire mass air flow sensor but this one has 5 wires, it has symptoms of cold start not working if you crank it long enough it tries to start but battery dies first. when it was running if you opened throttle slowly it would pick up but if you tried to drive it when you put foot down to pull away it would have no power and would throw out lots of black smoke from exhaust , this problem occurred in an instant one second running perfect next second problems galore. I have checked everything I can think of, it has two things that i should mention that might throw light on subject.
    1. according to haynes to test cam position sensor remove distributor and backprobe wires to check for an a/c voltage, every time I rotated rotor arm engine cooling fan came on.
    2.The 2 actuators mounted on manifold are supposed to move as throttle is operated,but 1 of them(1 furthest from throttle body was actuating as soon as engine starts.
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