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Mazda 626 Starting Issues

13

Comments

  • New battery, New Fuel filter, New Ignition coil, New plugs , New wires, While traveling on the highway engine jerked and than stopped. Had friend bring ignition coil, replaced ignition coil, Mazda fired right up. Drove about 10 miles car stop again, had friend go and get another ignition because first one was loose. Unable to start car, first time car sat fro about 2 hours, second time car sat about an hour. Not able to start.....any ideas?
  • Checked timing no problems, checked fuel pump, still unable to start. Economy light stas on and the hold light blinks on and off
  • scoyotescoyote Posts: 1
    It's either a problem with spark or fuel----are you getting spark at the plugs? Chances are that you have spark to but not thru your ignition distributor--and i believe you can just replace the igniter component. This goes out easily in an overheat condition ? If you are sparking at the plugs--start looking at the fuel delivery end
  • renee14renee14 Posts: 1
    I bought a 1990 mazda 626 lx from a friend that had it and the fuel pump went out and they sold it to me. It had set for over a year. I have put a new fuel pump, new battery, spark plugs and wires, and a new value cover on it. It still will not start. You can poor gas into the hose that goes to the injector and it will start and run for about 3 or 4 minutes just enough time to pull that gas and then that is it.

    Can anyone help me please?
  • The ignition system for a lot of mazdas like my 1993 626 is located in the distributor. When it heats up it will lose its connection and your car will not start. Some times it will reconnect again, most times it doesnt. And I do know on mine and most Mazdas you cant just replace that part of the ignition system. You have to replace the entire distributor. I got a new one on ebay for $125 compared to $200+ at your auto parts store or $400+ and a mazda dealership. Rockauto.com is also cheaper than your auto parts store. So if you guys are in doubt about starting issues check that first or have your mechanic check it. (Mine also thru out a ghost code for a idle air control valve. Which I replaced and didnt need to since it was my ignition system was bad, so that was a waste of $300) Hope that helps folks
  • m__m__ Posts: 2
    change the coil, and the Crank position sensor.
    likley it is the position sensor, but best to do both at the same time.

    M.
  • m__m__ Posts: 2
    get an after market transmission cooler added, should fix you issue quickly.

    about $450.00-500.00 at a reputable shop.

    M.
  • pbhfpbhf Posts: 1
    I have the same thing happening on a '94 626 including turning key off and back on trick. I suspect either fuel pump, relay, or computer. Did you ever find out what was causing your problem?
  • The relay was replaced 1st, then the fuel pump, then the ignition and another part relating to the ignition. The problem is solved. The ignition was the last repair and it works great now.
  • Just enrolled into this website. I have same model year, and similar situations. Wonder, you have got your problem resolved since May. What I have, was intermittently unable to re-start. It usually starts up after a couple hours rest. If I stopped at a store for a short errands. It'll act up when I returned. The engine would cut-off after a roughly 50 yards from the parking. I won't start unless sitting for a couple of hours. I swapped the fuel pump relay and main relay, also replaced ignition coil. It seems not getting any improvement. Wish, some fresh idea can be exchanged.
  • i have a 1996 mazda 626. car was working fine i went to clean the the acid on my battery, then when i went to leave it wouldnt start unless i pushed started it. thoiuight maybe i just drained the batt while cleaning the terminals but it didnt start later that night. took it to a autozone had them test my batt and starter said both were fine that it was a connection problem. said that sometimes terminals and cables go bad when acid sits too long on them. so i replaced the terminals and still no start. i get power to the car such as my radio and everything but when i go to start it it wont turn over or anything. wont make a sound. batt stays charged for about ten minutes then depleates but i still can turn the headlights on. any help would be great. thanks!
  • 86mazda62686mazda626 Posts: 1
    Had a similar problem with my 86 626. Check the relay switch near the battery...push all connectors close to battery together...sometimes that's the problem. Also had a part close to the distributor replaced by a mechanic. Hope that helps.
  • bamabeachbamabeach Posts: 2
    The ignition crancks, it just wont start. I can smell fuel... what's the problem. It's been sitting for 2 months, just replaced belts so it would run. Had to replace battery. Ran for a few days... now this! It's the same fuel that was in it 2 months ago... half a tank when it died. Any suggestions would be great!
  • gloving40gloving40 Posts: 1
    i have a 1996 mazda 626 and got power to the inside of the car but nothing to the engine and the key will click but nothing else. i cleaned the terms and nothing but got everything to the radio and wipers and a/c but not to the enginre help me with this to figure out driving me crazy.
  • ebuteraebutera Posts: 1
    Try using starter fluid to get it going, then test for fuel being delivered (fuel pump, injectors, etc) and spark. Might simply be there isn't enough fuel to get it going.

    And hope it doesn't trigger the "hold" light to flash...if it's an atx. Mine starts flashing if I look at the dash sideways!
  • My boyfriend changed the alternator in my Mazda 626 not too long ago as we were experiencing some problems. We then had to get a new battery and everything seemed fine for a while. Then i noticed that the car would start fine in the mornings and then intermittently during the day (when the car was warm), i had to press the gas pedal in order to get the car to start. Whenever I do this i smell gas inside the car, then it dissappates.

    I dont knwo what the problem could be. About 6 months ago we got a replacement fuel tank as there was ac rack in our old one.

    I also just posted anotehr question asking why oil would be pooling on top of the engine near the spark plugs...any help on either problem would be much appreciated!
  • 2good2good Posts: 1
    Photobucket

    http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb117/2goodeyestoo/DSC00001-34.jpg

    have something to with it?

    I have a Mazda 99 ES and the car will not start. It will crank but not fire. My dad placed a working fuel pump and now it will not pump fuel, we have the green relay at the EGI. It was getting a spark the other day, but now nothing. There was an after market security alarm connected but that was removed. The picture I am showing is a ground wire that was connected to the wall and we are not sure what other part. Would this ground wire have something to do with the car not starting? Thank you for everyone for helping me.
  • When trying to start my 626 frequently the key turn doesn't seem to activate the starter. However if I push the key in very firmly the car starts just fine. The problem seems to be getting worse and I'm afraid we'll get stranded sometime. Any suggestions would be very welcome. All electrics appear to be normal and the battery never struggles.

    Thanks
  • I am working on a 93 v6 mazda 626 that will not start, took out a spark plug, it fires nice bright blue, took off fuel line at fuel rail has fuel when cranking, checked throttle position sensor, checked crankshaft position sensor down by pulley,Haynes manual shows wiring for 4 and 6 wire mass air flow sensor but this one has 5 wires, it has symptoms of cold start not working if you crank it long enough it tries to start but battery dies first. when it was running if you opened throttle slowly it would pick up but if you tried to drive it when you put foot down to pull away it would have no power and would throw out lots of black smoke from exhaust , this problem occurred in an instant one second running perfect next second problems galore. I have checked everything I can think of, it has two things that i should mention that might throw light on subject.
    1. according to haynes to test cam position sensor remove distributor and backprobe wires to check for an a/c voltage, every time I rotated rotor arm engine cooling fan came on.
    2.The 2 actuators mounted on manifold are supposed to move as throttle is operated,but 1 of them(1 furthest from throttle body was actuating as soon as engine starts.
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