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GMC Sierra: Problems & Solutions



  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    There are two issues at question here. The first being the quality of Goodyear tires. Not the highest in the industry. The second is tire rotation. 10,000 miles is a bit long. I would also get a 4 wheel alignment.

    On the vibrations....some of the '00 model silverado and sierra 2wd qualify for replacement of the rack and pinion and lower control arms to cure the high speed vibration. It is determined by VIN number.
  • My front bumper on my 00 GMC 4x4 is starting to rust as well. I used some MAAS chrome polish then waxed it. I will keep an eye on it.
  • I have a 2000 Sierra 1500 Z71 and just had the front bumper replaced, no questions asked. I had it in for a few minor problems, while it was in for a oil change. They didn't even flinch. Just put a new bumper on...

  • Well, it's Sunday the 11th @ 3:20pm. By this time tomorrow I should be picking up my new Sierra. I bought a 2001 1500 SLT Long Bed with a 5.3 engine
    and a 4:10 rear. It's got all the toys.
    Any tip on break-in? Also, any common problems I should expect?
    It has On-Star. Has anyone had to use it and were you satisfied with the service?
  • Anyone have any problem with the security system that comes standard on the 2001 GMC Sierra 4WD 4door? I've been having a problem with my security light coming on while I'm driving and staying on for the drive. Then after I stop and shut the engine down, sometimes it happens again when I start it up again and sometimes it doesn't. I've had it into my dealer 3 times in 5 days! And they can't seem to find it - or it's a big job to fix and they keep putting a bandaid on it. The last time I took it in, it had the light on and I showed them it was on that I wasn't going crazy. Now, I took it to another dealer this am. Anyone have any ideas or had the same situation?

  • I have a 1999 gmc sierra regular cab stepside with a 4.3 V6 with 20,000 miles. Engine makes a rattle noise between 1500-2500 rpm ONLY when the engine is warm. Sounds like a metallic growl when I accelerate. Wait it gets better...if you let go of the gas pedal at a high speed the valves start clicking and knocking as you begin to decelarate. Be warned GM has a service bulletin (document ID # 757603) for this problem and will not fix it. The bulletin states that GM engineering has not found a solution for the problem and the rattle does not present any durability risks to the engine or its components.....Yeah thats why I get 12 mpg on a V6. I have been told by the dealership and GM they cannot do anything and to just live with the noise...

    Buying my first truck at 19 and putting $9,000 down on a Generic Made Car will be my last..

    I'm currently filing a complaint with the BBB and hope to settle this mess...... Check out the GM Truck Lemon Center at

    If anyone else has this problem please respond to hear what you are doing about it....Thanks...

  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    why can't they replace the motor or are they (the dealer) waiting for their last chance to do it?
  • I have a 97' GMC ext. cab short box p/u, runnin great so far. anyway i noticed the ext. cab window latches were very loose, doesn't really shut tight. there is some wind noise back there because of this. do they have after market latches out there, ones that are a little stronger? Looks like GMC got pretty cheap on this aspect of the truck. Any comments would be helpful.
  • I owed a 99 Seirra extended cab.. and it was horrible.. two transmissions.. and lots of other problems.. i chalked it up to a new model and body style and all that mess. I have traded it in on a 2001 same model. Here is the question, I had a bug shield on the front of my old one and took it off but couldn't get the little clips that went in the 5 holes to hold it on out. Does anyone know of where I could get those clips from?? I have the screws and the shield..but no clips so the screws can go in the hood?
    Please also reply to my e-mail
  • xbbusterxbbuster Posts: 145
    Were they for a Lund bug deflector?
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    When the yellow light in the message center stays on "Security" while driving it means you have a problem with the pass lock system. Your truck will run fine - it just means your truck is not protected by pass lock - that is the system that only allows your truck to be started with a key (no hot wires). I had this problem once - I rolled the window down, locked the truck - then reached in and opened the door - this sets the alarm off and reset the system. I have not had the situation since.
  • You can get those clips at most any auto body shop or auto paint supply store..Check the dealer where you bought the truck..
  • I have just bought a 2000 GMC SLT Z71..5.3 engine.Traded my 98 Z71..I like this truck much better...I am leaving in about 10 days for Daytona with it and my enclosed 12` tandem trailer..I have just under 1000 miles on the truck..I have already changed the oil at 500 miles with Gm Oil and filter...We did a short trip with the truck and trailer the other day and I noticed that the Tow/haul is the best way to pull the trailer..Is there anything else I should check or need to know? The trip will be 2200 miles round trip..Trailer will be around 4000lbs loaded ,I would guess..It is a low hauler..7 ft high..

  • Just got the results from the arbitrator. They have to replace my 2000 Sierra with a new one . The arbitrator said, if he was buying my truck, "He wouldn't" I have to pay $1776 for usage, but I am also going to fight that too. I still might persue it with the lemon law.
  • ed_bed_b Posts: 2
    I have a 99 GMC Sierra SLE reg cab short bed with a 4.8 liter engine. I was wondering if there is a device that overrides the automatic light turn on. I would like to have full control of my driving lights. I have heard of a device that did this, but have lost the location of it on the internet. Any ideas????
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    I would post the link to the product but edmund's software doesn't allow more that 100 characters in a string. Anyway, here's the link to the site. I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for.

  • Just had my 2000 Sierra Z71 ex cab. aligned for the 5th time in less than 10,000 miles. After finding this site and reading I see I'm not alone as the dealership wants me to believe! Is their a TB out for the bad centering valve in the power steering gearbox?
  • doomiedoomie Posts: 1
    I had the exact same problem with my Sierra. It did it for about 2 days on and off, and on the 3rd day it killed the fuel pump and the truck would no longer start. The dealer had it towed to their shop from my driveway, went to start it and it fired right up!!! They had it for 5 days and no problems until the last day it failed for them. They replaced the ignition module because it was reading a valid code but not the code that matched the truck (???) Problem went away until about a month after that, it came back again! Took it in, but they couldn't get it to come back on. Drove another couple weeks and it came on in the morning on my way to work, so I pulled into the garage with it on so they could see it. Again, they couldn't re-produce the problem. That was in November and it hasn't happened since. It does have me concerned since the problem was never really solved, so if you get any more info on it, please let me know!
  • itsbishitsbish Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 ST 5.3 4.10 truck with 32K and when I changed the front axle gear oil it had a lot of metal in it. When I took the truck to the shop to have the throttle body replaced due to sticking the service manager said I would have to have them service the transfer case first. I said it should be warranty but then let them do it. They changed the fluid and after driving the truck for the recommend 200 miles the problem was still there. When the truck was returned to the dealer a different mechanic said it was binding more then it should. They would not refund the $165 they charged to change to two quarts of fluid though. Has anyone else had a problem with 4X4. The truck has not been driven much in 4WD.
  • gmcrapgmcrap Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 4.3 litre 5 spd.ext cab sierra. 66000 miles. For the third time , including original parts, the clutch master cylinder and the slave cylinder have been replaced. noticed the problem when the clutch pedal started to squeek. This has happened almost systematically at the 30000 mile mark. The majority of my driving is on the highway. I do tow a boat, but only occasionally and under the 2500 lb. tow limit. Dealer & gm looking into the problem. Any thoughts out there / I would hate to think I need to replace this stuff evey 30000 miles at a cost of $750.00 each time. Also the clutch appears to have worn out at 66000 miles. Been driving std. shifts for 30 years never had one go out this soon!
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