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2013 and earlier Kia Optima Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • wolfpack99wolfpack99 Posts: 8
    edited January 2012
    Thanks again for the reply.

    Here is one deal I have been offered:

    EX with Premium Package and a few add-ons (wheel locks, cargo net and rear bumper film)
    MSRP: $26668
    Selling Price: $24850
    Additional Mileage: $1950
    Lease Incentive: deduct $1,000
    MF: .00095
    Residual: 55%
    NC Tax: 3%
    Doc Fee: $585.50
    Tag Fee: $89
    Lease Fee: $595
    Monthly Lease: $368

    What do you guys think? I'm hoping to get them down a little more to get my payment down to $350ish.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,253
    I might have missed the OP where the reason for leasing v. buying was discussed, but IMO your monthly payment doesn't seem particularly better than it would be if you just bought it & sold it later.

    For instance, in September my wife bought a car for $23,300. Add 7.25% IL tax & various fees and with $4K down payment her monthly payment is $328. Compare that to your $24,850 price & $368 payment. I don't really see a lease advantage unless you're putting virtually nothing down.
  • This is really not the buy vs. lease threat, but to answer your question, his payment is enormously high. That EX would run around $250 a month with nothing down. For example, my fully loaded hybrid having MSRP $32K is around $350 a month lease. He shouldn't of lease to begin with since he is paying for extra miles before he even had a chance to drive them. If you drive the car a lot, definitely buy it and drive the wheels off. But on low miles, the car like Kia still looses so much value, that by the time you're done paying it off, the car will be worth around $5,000 on a good day. That's loosing more money in my view.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,253
    Agreed all around.

    There are lease threads for every car so questions about the lease would be more appropriate there than in this, the "buy" thread.

    If you drive a lot of miles, buying will almost always be better financially than leasing. Doubly so on brands with higher depreciation rates.

    Personally, I buy & keep my cars for 8-10 years. I get the full value for my dollars. "Resale value" really becomes a non-issue; condition is more important as a selling price determinant on older cars.
  • Thanks for the replies guys. I agree this should be in the lease thread. I just happened to post int he wrong one. I will post over there so as to keep things on track.

    As for the leasing versus buying, I am interested in the lease because we change cars so frequently. I like the idea of a lower payment, no money down and saving the up front tax you have to pay when you buy.

    I still haven't been able to strike a deal yet, so I'm still looking. I know the payment is high, but the purchase price of $23,850 seems very good. I add about $2,000 to that to purchase the miles and then the other fees listed above. Using the .00095 MF and 55% residual the payments appear to be correct.

    I would love to save more money, so I'm going to keep pressing on. Thanks again for the input!
  • Hello all

    Just a little over a month ago I went to a local dealer looking for a 2012 EX. However, the dealer had more than a few 2011's still on the lot. So I test drove a 2011 EX turbo with premium package and didn't look back.

    Final price before taxes was $22,800. This price did include rebates.

    Love the car! And the price was incredible for everything the car gives you. Car is handling nicely in the snow too (Buffalo, NY).
  • Hey everyone,

    new poster here looking for info from EXPERIENCED ppl on the optima. My wife and I are looking for a new car to BUY, Iv read most pages but it seems like most ppl are leasing the optimas. Is there a certain reason for this? Also, how is the Optimas relaibility records, especially from those who have owned them for a bit on here? Im going to look at one in person and was not sure if it should be a serious though, or what. Right now I am looking at Nissan Altimas, Subaru Legacy and the Kia Optima and am trying to keep the total as close to $20,000 as I can (. I have read all the stuff online, but am looking forward to advice from real ppl who actually own/lease them. Thanks for all the advice ahead of time!
  • I think your price is in the ballpark. I bought my loaded hybrid Nov.15th with every option available--rolled in all rebates "at the time" rolled in all NY tax and all dealer fee's "they even paid my first months payment" except license--$69.00 and my monthly for a 38 month lease is $396.00. Remember this is loaded and no money out of pocket other than $69.00. Hope this info helps you make a deal.
  • Don't forget a current Mon Kia reg is worth an extra $1000.
  • I just looked at Optima and found they all had add ons like rustproofing, fabric protection, pin striping etc. Very bogus.
  • Should had looked at your post before I bought-- could had saved a 1000. OTD $$29731.58 for a SX which stickered at $31,795 including freight. Included $400 for tire and wheel replacement for 5 years (at the hard sell financing desk) if they got damaged by pot holes here in Colorado. Easily can happen with these 18 inch wheels and last car I bought was a 2002 Olds Aurora with 13k on it and yep broke 2 wheels going over a curb I did not see and blew a tire in a parking lot!. Still driving the Olds with 149k v-6 and I figured if I was going to keep a car another 9+ years I might as well get it loaded and that got better mileage than the Olds. OTD includes taxes and the notorious dealer prep crap. My Olds qualified for the competition rebate and got a $500 financing bonus which offset the dealer prep. Looked at Sonata and other Kia dealers and the Kia guys were really close to each other in price and Sonata dealers were not taking much off the price plus Optima has cooled seats which no other manufacterer can touch at this price new, however I did not go to all like Lexus and Acura to compare. Waiting to pay the high license plate charges which include in Colorado bridge and road fees which are another way to tax the public because we have the Tabor amendment which limits taxes but state goverment has found ways to work around it.
  • Anyone see this article in March 2012 Car and Driver regarding the 535 BMW wheels? Go to this article- now I am glad I purchased the wheel and tire insurance Wrap-Up: 2011 BMW 535i at CarandDriver.com also read the comments from the public below the article.
  • Hi, all. Just joined after reading lots of good information on this forum. Currently negotiating with 3 dealers on a 2012 Optima EX with premium package (no technology, no turbo). Current lowest price, including $1500 in Kia incentives (competitive; auto show) is $21,675 on a window sticker of $27,065. Started from a zag.com base of $22,400. Do you think there is more $$ on the table? New to new-car negotiating. After reading forums, I'm not including tax, tags, doc fees, etc. in this post.

    I have also not begun any negotiations for trade. Dealers are all in northern Illinois.

    Thanks for any feedback!
  • If thats a great deal.. I am just beginning to look, they are going to screw you on the trade... depending on how old the car is and if they sell it to a wholesaler I went on a site of a wholesaler that quoted me a price for my car and the price the dealer gave me was exactly the same.. I sold it my self and made 2 grand more after spending 300 on getting it detailed.
  • I haven't discussed trades with any dealers. I don't expect to get top $$ for a trade, but in my state, the cost of the trade comes off the price of the car when computing tax, so it may be worth the difference (when you also figure in hassle of selling independently). I don't know yet.

    I interested in whether the price given me by the lowest priced dealer is reasonable, or if there is more room for negotiation.
  • It is not only reasonable, it might be too good to be true.

    The EX you describe has an invoice, according to Edmunds, of $25,195 including destination. Your deal is $3,520 below invoice. Even if you are getting $2,000 in rebates, that still means the dealer is giving you his entire holdback of $650 (3% of EX base invoice) PLUS another $870.

    Some possibilities:

    1. There is a lot of unknown dealer money out there (which we would hope Edmunds would be aware of).

    2. They know you have a trade and are planning to get it back there or, if not, they will change the deal.

    3. You are being lied to in order to get you to closing.

    If you are basing your expectation on a ZAG or TrueCar price, be careful. I speak from experience, that is the biggest bait-and-switch game out there.

    I've seen some deals on this and the Optima lease thread that just didn't add up. Every time I tried to replicate, even at the same dealer where one of those amazing deals was supposedly done, I would come up well short of the target and they were not in any hurry to chase me down when I walked away.

    Good luck, and good for you if you get what they are promising. If you do, could you please post ALL the details so we can see what we may be missing?

    Thanks.

    Haggard
  • Haggard,

    I scatched my head after reading that post and forwarded it to my son who is in the market for one who then went to the dealer. My son called me back asking if I was drunk. The dealers son is in grad school with my son.. Go figure.
  • One dealer I briefly worked on a deal with told me that there are more and more salesmen (not coordinated by dealers, of) that create online accounts and post outrageous deals to drive business. She said that is why you rarely get all the details, they are just doing the job online, in advance.

    Then again, considering the source, that story may be no more true than some of the deals posted :confuse:
  • cmjfcmjf Posts: 1
    Just bought last week in the Philadelphia suburbs. White 2012 Optima Ex non-turbo with both the tech and premium packages, cargo tray/net and wheel locks. $26.7 OTD. So far, very happy.
  • I have four quotes so far - 2 dealers have given me a stock # for the vehicles they are quoting. All are offering the same $1500 in Kia incentives. My 3 low prices are:

    $23175- $1500

    $23906- $1500

    $ 24875- $1500 (don't have the color combo I want, but "they can get it"). Only other $$ they discuss is title/tag work (all 3 quoted the same amt, which I verified w/my state DMV) and doc fees, which average about $165 per dealer, and, of course taxes (sigh).

    I've only been dealing via email thus far. Plan to hit the phone tomorrow and visit the two lowest price dealers to see what's what. Will definitely report back. Wish me luck! :-)
  • scrapalarascrapalara Posts: 7
    edited February 2012
    Haha - I just figured out you might be talking about me? Nope, just a teacher trying to watch her hard earned cash. I'm finding the whole process amazing - didn't ever considered the idea of asking car dealers to bid for my business before. I've learned a lot about this whole process just by spending some time on this forum (thanks, everyone!) Kind of looking forward to the experience tomorrow of sitting down at the dealer with their emails in hand and having a discussion about closing the sale. I live not too far from Chicago 'burbs so lots of dealers to choose from.

    Again, wish me luck! Will report back tomorrow!
  • scrapalarascrapalara Posts: 7
    edited February 2012
    OK: Reporting back on my experiences today.

    You were right on quote #1. A callback determined that the $23175 was for a demo (2500 miles) and so the $1500 in incentives would not apply. They offered a new car w/0 miles at essentially the same price. ($24,780-$1500 incentives)

    Dealer #2 honored the $23906-$1500 price, or $22406, which was the price quoted in the original email. Rosen Kia of Elgin, IL. The finance manager did his best to talk me into financing (no), all kinds of "exterior protection", such as acid-rain insurance (no, no) and the wheel and tire insurance (no). Modest, earnest discussions, but I wouldn't call it hard pressure. Dealer #1 was convinced that Dealer #2 would tack on destination to the $22,406 price, but I was assured it was already accounted for in their quote and the subject did not come up. They did have a pinstriping package already applied and priced in to the window sticker, but the price I quoted and paid was still $750 lower than dealer #1 after I got a revised quote on a new, not demo model.

    Over the 50 mile drive home, the avg MPG readout was 32.6. Already happy if this keeps up. Expecting mileage to improve after a break in period.

    Thanks again for everyone's feedback in helping me locate this vehicle.
  • A little hard to follow. As best as I can tell, you say you paid Dealer #2 $750 less than Dealer #1 revised quote of ($24,780-$1500 incentives):

    Dealer number 1: 24,780 - 1,500 = 23,280
    Dealer number 2: 23,280 - 750 = 22,530

    So, if I haven't missed anything, you paid $22,530 after 1,500 incentives for a brand new 2012 EX with PREMIUM package? That means the dealer sold you the car for 24,030.

    Sticker: 27,065
    Invoice: 25,195
    Your Price: 24,030 (incentives back to dealer)
    + (-) Invoice: (1,165)

    Even giving you the holdback of $650, the dealer ate another $515 to get you to take the car?

    That is a great deal! Especially for a first timer who sent a few emails and spent one day at dealerships. There must be some serious unpublished incentives to dealers. Congrats!

    Car_man or kyfdx, can you help us out here? What are we missing?

    Oh, yeah, one last thing: What is your term and interest rate? Or, did you pay cash?
  • scrapalarascrapalara Posts: 7
    edited February 2012
    Here's a copy/paste from the original email I got from the dealer:

    Price Quote Details For Your: 2012 Optima EX

    MSRP: $27,545.00 (my note: $450 was the pinstriping as shown below)
    Rebate(s): $1,500.00 inc ...1,000.00 Competitive or Kia Loyalty? & 500.00Kia Finance Assistance!
    Your Price: $22,406.00
    Your Savings: $5,139.00
    Equipment/Packages: Double Pinstripe..Door/Whl Pro.. (my note: this turned out to be $450 of pinstiping and door edge guards that I wouldn't have requested, but it was already installed on this particular car...all the Optimas had them at that dealership).
    PIO's as viewed ...Premium Package (My note: not sure what PIO means - price includes options? maybe? This car has the Premium pkg w/the pano roof, UVO, upgraded audio, etc., but no nav).

    I then called them (twice, in fact) asking if I would have to pay another $750 destination charge on top of all this, and they assured me it was already rolled into the price and the only thing that was missing was title/tags, doc fees, and tax. I did not finance (paid cash) so I was not eligible for the $500 finance assistance BUT they gave me instead a $500 Auto Show bonus that other dealers had mentioned, so the $1500 in rebates still applied.

    Even with the price worked out ahead of time, it still was about 4 hours start to finish, with test drive, prepping the car, listening to the finance mgr trying to sell me all kinds of add on stuff, etc.

    This all started with me finding a car on their web site that was the color & options combo I wanted and sending in their "email us for a price quote" form. As I said in an earlier post, they actually ended up lower than the dealers zag.com referred me to.

    All this done through Rosen Kia in Elgin, Illinois.

    Hope this clarifies. Good luck with your shopping!
  • Hi All, would love advice...ready to buy the 2012 Optima EX base, sticker $24065.00-less two $1000.00 incentives = $22065.00. Asked the dealer to provide add'l discount & he responded with "where do you want me to be?" Im thinking $19000.00...am I in the ballpark? From what Ive seen $21k is fair. I live in northern IL & would LOVE some help. Im a single female and Ive seen 1st hand how these sales people try to pressure. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
  • scrapalarascrapalara Posts: 7
    edited February 2012
    I had luck emailing several dealers and asking for their best price. You can use that information as a basis for your negotiations. Both Edmund's TMV and the ZAG pricing show about $22425 before any incentives (don't forget to ask about the $750 destination charges).

    I found a dealer in Elgin who sold me a '12 Optima EX with the Premium package for $22406 (before tax, title, licence). This was $750 less than the next cheapest price. It did pay to do some homework online before talking to the sales staff. With that car, I found the car on their web site and filled out the little "email me your internet price" form. Had an answer back within a few hours and ended up purchasing from them. Google Kia dealers in northern Illinois and browse their inventory and try doing some price comparison that way. May be worth your time.
  • mihinkmihink Posts: 29
    New purchase: 2012 SX dark graphite premium touring package (non-tech) ,wheel locks, cargo mat and net, door sill applique, door guards, pinstripes.

    Final price: $27500 including tax/title/license (out the door) and 0.9% financing x 3 years.

    Breakdown: $27118 + 1639 (MD tax of 6%) + 292 (tags/title fee) = $29250 - $1750 (1k competitive bonus + 750 graduate discount)

    MSRP was $30,940 I believe

    Purchased at Herson's Kia in Rockville, MD on 02/25/12

    Good luck to everyone! Go to the dealer at the end of the month and find a car in inventory...dealers want to sell!
  • chadecoenchadecoen Posts: 13
    edited March 2012
    So I am trying like heck to get an Optima EX. I was leaning towards a lease but am thinking of buying now. My local dealer (there are many in my area) has in the autotrader several EX models listed as MSRP: $24,240, Internet Price: $20,375.

    Now I know they are just using every single rebate they have to show the lowest price in the ad. They are going to say not everyone qualifies for the rebates, bringing the price up. I only qualify for the competitor and recent grad rebates but I understand they can not be combined.

    How can I get them to sell to me for that price? Go sit down with them and dig my heals in and not budge till they do?

    Will they fudge on the loyalty rebate and say they saw a current Kia registration if they did not? Anyone have a copy of a tag receipt I can borrow and fake myself?

    Taxes, if I do decide to trade to avoid paying taxes on the trade amount, do they reduce the tax liability by the trade allowance or the actual cash value? Can they show more for the trade to pay less taxes? Does that make any sense?

    ****edit***I think I answered my own question about taxes. Another site says it is trade allowance not ACV but even so, the trade is worth what it is and at rock bottom on the new car price they would have to raise the selling price to show more for trade not saving my any in taxes beyond the acv anyway. Make sense?***edit***

    I just want to look at this thing from all angles to pay as little as possible on each line item, not just on the price of the car. This particular dealer also has the highest "Doc" fee too of $799!!!!! What a rip but they have the cheapest advertised prices.

    Not sure what to do here. Wife REALLY wants one but $25k out the door is just too much. I do have $3k to put down but damn, that advertised price looks good!
  • cooper13cooper13 Posts: 14
    2012 Optima EX w/premium package paid $23,499 (w/$1,000 competitive and $500 financing rebates) + dealer fee +TTL = $25,528 OTD and got 2.90% KIA Financing. If you don't take the $500 financing incentive you can get lower APR financing. For me it was more advantageous to take the $500 financing rebate. Dealer had exact color combo I was looking for so it was a good deal for me.
  • rp8rp8 Posts: 8
    Hi Car_Man,

    I am about to pull the trigger on leasing a 2012 KIA Optima EX Turbo with Premium Package. Can you please tell me how my deal looks.

    1. Do you think it would be more beneficial for me to go with the SX, I believe the MF is much lower then the EX right now and prices are very similar? (EX .00109 vs SX .00060)

    2. Can I negotiate the MF on the EX deal?

    3. I know its a pretty damn good deal, but is there something else I can do to get even lower monthly payment?

    I want to negotiate down to the bottom bottom. Please help. I am trying to make the decision tomorrow. Here is the deal I got on the EX below.

    MSRP: $29,894
    SALE PRICE: $27500
    COMPETETIVE: -$1000
    LEASE CASH: -$1000
    FINAL PRICE: $25500
    DOWN: $0
    MF: .000109
    RESIDUAL: 58%
    TERM: 36 MONTHS (12K)

    Trade: $9800
    Owe: $9000

    PAYMENT: $280

    Do you think there is any other angle I can play to get my payment even lower?

    Thank you
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