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2013 and earlier Kia Optima Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Backy-- If the ESC package is that important to you, have you ever thought about going to California or another west coast market with lower prices and greater choice? It would be a three or four day drive back, but it could get you the car you want at a big discount. I know there's a database that sweeps newspaper ads for the lowest posted prices in the country. If you were going to pay over book for a used car, why not pay under for a new one?

    I picked the local dealer, even though I could have gotten a base car cheaper elsewhere in St. Louis. Kind of regret it now that I see what tires are going to cost for replacement and frankly the car (low mileage) hasn't been back to the dealer in the almost two years I've owned it.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,692
    I recently did an inventory search across the US on an Optima LX with ABS/ESC. There were ZERO. I would consider about 1000 miles my limit for travel, e.g. East Coast. That is where the best deals on Sonatas seem to be, for example.

    Since Sonatas with ESC are really easy to find (i.e., ALL of them have it), and I don't prefer the Optima all that much more to the Sonata, that would be the route I'd take if I can't find an Optima LX with ABS/ESC or an Elantra SE at a decent price. I am also looking at the used route, as per my recent posts on the 2007 Optima.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,692
    Yep, I've seen Planet Hyundai's ads in Las Vegas before, when I've been there. I've read the fine print on the ads too (hard as that was to do). Here's all I have to say about those prices:

    :P

    (If there were an Emotorcon for "utter disbelief", I would have used it.)
  • Is it safe for me to assume that the Optima is at least as reliable as the Sonata?

    Also, can anyone confirm a $1,000+ dollar bill because the solid lifters must be adjusted near the 90k mile mark?

    One last thing: Consumer Reports remarked that the Optima (I think 2007) had suspension noise. Anyone who owns one or has driven one care to comment?

    Thank you.

    Don
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,692
    As far as the I4 powertrain, they are the same (Optima for 2009 catches up with the 2009 Sonata in the engine department) so there should be no difference in reliability there. But the two cars are made in different factories, and have different V6s. CR rates the Sonata I4 "much better than average", the V6 average, and the Optima overall better than average (doesn't distinguish between I4 and V6 there).
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    The only suspension noise might be on hitting large bumps, other cars may have more sound insulation. Absolutely nothing whatsoever tinny or cheap feeling-- any thing I've heard is a thunk, not a clang or squeak. No problem whatsoever IMHO.
  • 2008 Kia Optima LX with rear spoiler I4 engine

    $14,496 + TTL ($15,728.00 OTD)

    Do you guys think that's a good deal?
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Two years ago I paid $16.1 for an 07 LX with add-on leather (looks as good as factory) and appearance group. Can't remember if the spoiler is part of the appearance group or just an add-on. Appearance group (if I remember correctly retailed at $1000, I think they let me have leather for $500. Obviously no one would pay full price for the appearance group and other than the classier instrumentation most of it is lost on me. Frankly replacing the 17 inch tires is an unneeded expense.

    So, subtracting the appearance group and the leather you paid about what I did two years ago. Of course I bought a new 07 and you're getting a soon to be replaced 08. (Just noticed the 09 ad on the right of this page.) The 09 is uglier IMHO but should get better mileage and have more power.

    I'm not sure what the rebates are on this, but I'd think you got a pretty good deal, especially if you got the appearance group thrown in.

    I don't like listing TTL as part of the deal because it varies so much. For example in Missouri, taxes are paid separately depending on the town of residence within 30 days and the dealer sees none of this, other than some kind of title fee which I've never agreed to pay. Price paid to the dealer without these charges allows a much better comparison for a national market.
  • Thanks for replying. As far as I know there is no appearance group on the vehicle. The $14,496 includes all the rebates and such + tax, tag and title. I'm not really to pull the trigger yet, but at that price, I'm basically paying what I'm paying for my Elantra...

    I'm almost certain I can get it down further, maybe another $500. The wild card in all of this is how much they are willing to give me for my Elantra... I guess I'll see when I go down to the dealer.

    One other question, they have a 2007 EX V6 (fully loaded) that has been sitting on the lot brand new. They are offering it for like $15,687. Do you think I can ask for $14,496 and take that? It has like 20 miles and I much rather get the V6 with all the goodies for the same price.

    Thanks for your input.

    BTW, I agree 100% on the appearance of the 2009!
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    If you like the V6 (I don't), you should be able to negotiate an extremely good deal on a 2 year old car.

    My problems with the V6:
    1. Timing belt to replace.
    2. Not much more power than the four.
    3. Poorer gas mileage.

    Make 'em an offer of under $14K on it and see if they take it. Can't do any harm. I haven't checked the price of a used EX (say with 5K mileage) on Edmunds. See what that would bring and offer it or less.

    Having the Elantra in the mix complicates things as to what the car is costing. I know selling it yourself is a hassle but it might save you a thousand or more. At the very least I'd negotiate the Kia separately.

    Kias still depreciate much more than Hyundais, so I don't see much difference between the 07 and 08. If you buy this car do so with the idea that you're going to run it into the ground.
  • timmbojtimmboj Posts: 123
    My parents are being offered 19,900 for a 2008 EX V6 with Sunroof, leather, ESC package. MSRP 23,900. 3500 off in rebates and another 500 just to hit my mom's goal of being under 20K.

    Are there any other incentives out there we don't know about? Any more wiggle room in KIA? They're not into haggling. But its a bit more car than they wanted. They just wanted a sunroof and the ESC. But colors etc. are hard to find these days.
  • I searched on Edmunds for the use V6 EX loaded and couldn't find an equal car within 200 miles of my house! The closest I saw was a 2008 Optima LX with 5K miles going for $12,188. I'm guessing I can try going for under $14K and see what happens. I agree with you, I'm just going to keep this car for a while (reason I'm getting rid of the Elantra is that I have a baby on the way and need the extra room in the back). What appeals to me is that it has leather and all that nice stuff I won't be able to get with the I4 for a lower price.

    I guess I'll find out when I drive there this weekend, I'm sure they will give me dirt for my Hyundai, so I'm afraid I'll probably just walk out and wait till my loan is done with the Elantra (2.5 years yuck).
  • Timmboj,

    Check on the edmunds site under NEW and price out the 2008 Optima EX V6 with all the goodies and get a good idea of what the invoice is. The subtract the rebates to get a good starting point. I would offer $1,000 under invoice + rebates to see the response and see where that leaves you (like was mentioned above, new redesigned model, the extras also allow more giggle room for negotiations etc..)

    Report back we'd love to hear an update.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,692
    $500 off before rebates is not much these days, as there's at least $1500 (approx.) markup over invoice on that car, plus holdback and possibly other incentives. And it's a closeout on a model that is being refreshed for 2009. Plus the V6 Optimas aren not nearly as popular as the I4s--I've seen 2007 V6s sitting on dealer lots even now. So if I were them I'd shoot for at least another $1000 off or so. If they are not good at negotiating, they should either take someone with them who is good at it, or use a buying service (like Costco).
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    I agree with Backy. I don't remember paying more than $100 over invoice for any car, ever.
  • bvr1bvr1 Posts: 2
    Bought 08 EX l4 pretty loaded, $20,170.00, $15,000.00 plus tax and fee's
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Sounds pretty good for an EX. FWIW, the remaining 08's should get big discounts as the 09's come in. I really don't like the 09's styling as well. Has a sixth generation (?)--(two back)-- Honda Accord butt. It's not 1999.
  • Just picked up a brand new 2008 Optima LX w/AT, CC, keyless entry & the standard stuff - PW, PL, AC, CD player for under $12,700 out the door. Oh, the AT gets you steering wheel controls for radio & cruise, but I'm sure most of you already knew that.

    The way the contract read, it was just over $16K for the car (under invoice), less $5400 in rebates (was really $4400, think they made up the last $1000 to get the deal). A little under $11000 before tax, title, doc fee, etc - under $12,700 out the door. I'm sure they did some funny math, I was just ecstatic to get that deal as I had another one on hold at another dealer for $13,692 & was willing to go with it.

    I'm in Las Vegas, agreed with the dealer that I wouldn't mention them by name but there are only a few in the area, so you can narrow it down ... all in the area have lots of inventory, 2009s are just coming out & the rebate just jumped to $4000. Plus, my girlfriend qualified for the college grad rebate, another $400.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Excellent deal--probably the best I've seen, although it makes some of us who paid more a bit more worried about resale.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,692
    You bought a Kia, and you are worried about resale? :surprise:

    The sad fact is, Kias in general depreciate pretty rapidly, and unless an Optima has the safety gear that has become commonplace in the mid-sized class now--and standard on the 2009 Optima--namely ABS, traction control, and ESC, it will be hard for them to hold value. Fortunately, there have been great deals on the 06.5+ Optima almost since it arrived, although it's hard to beat the deal that was just posted. I don't know if you can even get a basic Accent or Rio for much less than that these days.
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Backy--Agreed. I thought I got a big discount on mine-- $16K with leather and the appearance group but this is an entire new level of discount. Of course the 09 is out. Are you still looking at the Optima? I know ESC is important and it's now standard-- right? For the record, other than the standard safety goodies (important I know), I really find the 09's rear end looks like the two gen. old Accord. Not as good as the 08 IMHO.

    For the record, I plan on driving my Optima into the ground.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,692
    You should feel good about the deal you got. It cost more than the basic Optima the other buyer bought, but you have a lot more equipment on your car, so it should cost more. Try to get a comparably equipped new mid-sized car anywhere close to $16k even in today's rotten car market. And if you use up that 10-year warranty and drive the car into the ground, who cares about depreciation?
  • capt4capt4 Posts: 32
    from Slickdeals.net

    http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=0&t=1126567

    2008 NEW Kia Optima HUGE incentives $12676 OTD YMMV :D
    I just bought a brand new 4D car with AT (162 HP, 164 ft-lbs torque, 31 mpg Hwy), AC, power windows, power locks, CD player, cruise, heated mirrors & steering wheel controls for stereo & cruise - out the door for under $13000. Price before tax, doc fees, etc was under $11,000. The sticker on this car was over $18,500 before tax, doc fees, etc. A little background & I'll explain how I got there.'

    :) For those thinking about car shopping, now's a great time to buy. The economy's slow, new car lots are overloaded with inventory, new models are replacing the 2008s & some places are desperate to make a deal. :shades:

    I had been looking at used cars & was frustrated with what people were asking, often wanting above dealer retail listed on www.edmunds.com & www.kbb.com - never been a new car guy. However, I decided to look into new vehicles with all the 'teaser' rates around $10,000 in the paper (I'm in the Las Vegas area, if that matters). Many of the 'teaser' ads are for a car that doesn't exist with a combination of rebates for which no human can qualify (i.e. Military, recent college grad, lease loyalty, dealer loyalty, etc). That said, there are still plenty of deals to be had if you do your homework, you're patient & you're persistent.

    One example: The 2008 Kia Optima - if it's not your cup of tea, that's fine - I wouldn't have bought one five years ago. They've come a long way to be mentioned along the Toyota Camry, Honda Accord & also greatly improved Hyundai Sonata. It's a plain, simple car, maybe not as nicely appointed as the Camry or Accord but the gap has narrowed. My research changed my mind - internet research, word of mouth from friends & even people inside the auto industry. IF you can live with the fact it's going to depreciate faster than Toyota or Honda because of market perception & IF you don't see a car as a status symbol, this may be a very slick deal for you. Personally, I don't mind having a 2008 instead of 2009 as I'm going to keep & hold this car for a long time; that's also why I'm not getting caught up in depreciation concerns. The 2009 Optimas are coming in & have design changes, so now's the time to make a deal. You still get 5 yr/60K bumper to bumper warranty.

    Current rebate on the Optima is $4000 for the 2008 model according to Kia http://www.kia.com/#/optima/offers/ In addition, you might qualify for an additional $400 if you're a recent college grad (we did, as my girlfriend graduated in May). It helped that I knew what another friend had paid several months ago, knowing I'd be able to lean on the dealer to get below invoice, which is $16,595 - by the time you add destination charge, it's $17,235 for the LX 4dr Sedan (2.4L 4cyl 5A). My friend had paid just over $15,000 several months ago, but that number included a dealer incentive as well - didn't matter, that's what I wanted, less the $4000 rebate & the $400 college grad rebate. My target price was $12,600 out the door - never expected to get that, cuz everything had to go right to get to that price, but it was my goal.

    All of the Kia dealers told me I couldn't get that, because the previous price was based on a dealer incentive to get it close to $15,000. The second dealer budged a little, eventually agreeing to $13,692 out the door (~$16K less $4,400 rebates plus tax, doc fee, etc); they showed me the paperwork claiming they were taking close to a $2,000 loss since they admitted they desperately needed to move inventory. (I do believe they'd take a loss, but closer to $1,000 once holdback & other incentives were taken into account.) I called my girlfriend, told her she'd have to go with the next day if we did the deal as she was the one who qualified for the college grad rebate. I asked if she was willing to take a shot at the third dealership that night, since that's where my friend bought the car - she agreed. We went, they tried to tell me the same things, claiming the lowest they could go was ~$16K less $4,000 (rebates) plus tax, doc fees, etc. - just over $14K. I told them I already had a deal lower than that, wanted $13K & was willing to pay cash. Their 'concession' was to say they found another $1000 rebate, leaving us just over $13,000. (I don't believe it existed, think it was their way to save face to get the deal.) We hadn't yet discussed the college grad rebate, I told them it would finish the deal - since the rebate comes from Kia, they went for it. $12,676 out the door for a car that would've been over $20,000 at sticker. (Already tinted - necessary in Nevada - & with a security package.) I was willing to do the deal at $13,692 so obviously I was ecstatic to get it for $12,676.

    The biggest suggestions I have are:
    * Be prepared - do your research & homework, know what rebates & deals exist locally
    * Be patient - the first dealer may not give you what you want, I went to three Kia dealers (and many other dealers, sitting on inventory but being more stubborn)
    * Be persistent - be ready to walk away if you think they're jerking you around, stick to your guns
    * Be aware - know the dealer's pain points & match that (i.e. excess inventory, no activity, poor cash flow) - it helped that I offered to pay cash to close the deal
    * Be decisive - when you get the deal you want, be prepared to 'pull the trigger' & act quickly - it's a reasonable thing to offer once you've gotten what you want

    Hope this helps a bunch of folks out there, it can work for any car but it's hard to beat the 2008 Kia Optima for value if you're looking for a midsize sedan.
    Last edited by delgadobb : 01-12-2009 at 08:49 PM.
  • Just purchased 2008 Optima EX - $20,199 sticker - paid $13976. Was delighted. Drove it home - 270 miles all interstate - got 25.5 mpg. Disapointed. How long before I get maximum mileage?
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Hyundai/Kia engines are notoriously tight. The best mileage I got on a 2.4 was about 40, all interstate. It's my wife's car and mostly around town without getting warmed up-- in general she gets worse than I do in my Malibu Maxx 3.5 liter V-6 about 20, but she drives differently than I do. On normal highway driving, I think you could average about 30 when everything's broken in -- @ 5-10,000 miles.
  • mohatumohatu Posts: 21
    Got it last week for $17650. It was funny when the dealer tried to sneak in the destination fee of $675 into the final bill of sale ON TOP of the sale price. This fee was withdrawn after I threatened to leave.

    Do I miss something here? I was pretty sure that the final dealer's final sticker/sale price does include destination, and only TTL is extra.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,692
    No, you didn't miss something.. obviously the dealer HOPED you'd miss something. ;)
  • csandstecsandste Posts: 1,866
    Further proof that both Hyundai and Kia need to focus on dealer quality. I bought an Optima because in my case (at least) Kia has the better, less pushy, dealership. In your case, however, the dealer was obviously trying to pull a fast one.
  • mohatumohatu Posts: 21
    No, I wouldn't say it's only HyunKia's dealers' practice... The day before I bought the Optima I was trying to get a deal on the Insight EX no navi at the local Honda store. The talk was EXCLUSIVELY about an EX, I repeatedly made a point I don't want an LX. I picked the certain car from the lot that I wanted. We seemingly did finalize the figures for the deal and I started to fill in the loan app when my wife that was on the phone with me told me to confirm the figures for the one last time before we proceed. Just in case. I said, "So, this EX's price will be..." - and the salesman interrupts, "No-no-no... This is an LX...". All this after about 2.5 hours in the store. Imagine how furious I was. I just stood up and left.

    So, one should be extremely careful while making a car deal anywhere. Weird things might happen almost any moment. Those guys count on the fact that you are either so exhausted by the end of negotiations and/or you want their car so badly that you'll agree to or miss these little tricks. Unfortunately, too many buyers do. As for me, yes, pity I couldn't get that Insight. But I'm quite flexible and for me there's many cars out there that I'd like to own and many other dealers to visit. I just move on and finally find what I want. Patience does it.

    Of course, I didn't want to offend those dealers who are honest. Too bad they seem to be the minority.
  • jskayjskay Posts: 5
    Actually if you look on the Maroni lable (The sticker on the window of ANY car on a lot) it will clearly state that the Optima has a destination fee. Clearly your fault for not looking closely enough at what you were buying.
    I am happy to see that you are blaming the salesmen and not the brand for the negotiation deal, I would simply state that at the next KIA dealer you go to and you'll get and explanation and better service.
    You will find Kia wants feedback from consumers they follow up with you with surveys through phone and e-mail after purchase as well as when you get your car serviced at the dealer. Anything bad about the car of the dealer will be addressed. If its the car then the 8,000 engineers they have will work on it for next years model.
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