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Ford Expedition Climate Control Problems

124

Comments

  • Usually the flush kits T into the lines at the fire wall. Last time I saw one it was a Prestone product, but I'm sure others make them.
  • I have one of those but I only want to flush the heater core(s), not the entire engine. Also it's a tight fit trying to get one of the t-fittings on one of the hoses coming out of the wall.
  • OK, I figured out how to flush both heater cores. Neither was stopped up and even after the flush I'm not getting any heat, front or rear. I'm stumped. Any suggestions?
  • How did you flush the cores? Just because you got outflow doesn't mean that the cores aren't restricted. Are the hoses going into and out of the firewall hot? I'd start to think the warter pump isn't pushing as hard as it should.
  • The hoses have never gotten hot. That's why I figured one of the cores was blocked. To flush only the cores I clamped off the hoses that come to and from the manifold. The I cut one of the hoses going to the rear core and installed garden hose male to one side and a female to the other. Next I hooked up the water hose (using a backflow device) to one side and another hose to the other side and ran the end into a 5 gal. bucket. I turned on the hose and the water ran through the system pretty easily.

    I was wondering if it might be the water pump. But wouldn't my engine run hot? If anything it runs pretty cold.
  • If your inbound hose to the core never gets hot, and your engine temp is good you must have a blockage before the cores or possibly the system is air bound. Why are you opposed to flushing the motor?
  • The heater core is no good and ur water pump is gone too.... no mater how many times u flush it, it won't work , i had my heater core done then my hoses weren't getting hot but i had hot heat and for 2min it goes cold, i found out it was my water pump .... so please don't keep wasting ur time flushing it. sorry :cry:
  • One could reason you got taken to the cleaners. Had the heater core done and still had no heat? Then the water pump? Nice that the shop you went to chose to go in order of most expensive first. If the poster doesn't have hot lines going into the core, then it isn't the core. Like I said, water pump or air bound.
  • kira98expokira98expo Posts: 7
    edited December 2010
    I didn't get taking to the cleaners ,cause I didn't have heat until i did my heater core then once that was done i had heat but now I'm good... That why I said I was doing the same thing flush after flush and still no heat.... \\
  • If the core wasn't leaking, and it was flushed with no improvement, the first place I would have checked before ripping ther dash out would have been the water pump. Your mechanic went the $1500 route before the $300 route, but got you for $1800 in the end. It was probably the water pump all along. I'd say that's the cleaners.
  • LOL... If i only paid that much money never would i be ripped off like that , but FYI my heater core was clogged ,like i said the water pump and temp was done first heater core last . but trust me I knw what was wrong and what I paid for and isn't wasn't even in the thousands. I knw what i did to my truck enough said . I wont keep telling u cause ur not the one who ask the question so goodbye.....
  • I know my blend door is bad because I would have ac and heat in the rear but not the front, recently it blows no heat anywhere. The hoses going to the heater core are cold as is the lower radiator hose but the top hose get hot. I thought maybe I didn't have enough antifreeze in it before winter and the radiator froze up but lately its been warm enough for it to unthaw, its 45 degrees today. after warming the motor up I got some pressure building up in the coolant recovery tank but then it stops. I have cut my way into the blend door like heatertreater informs you to and the blend door was just dangling, I have close the blend door and opened it by hand and ran the heater with no luck of heat either way. I cant afford to have a mechanic fix it because I'm unemployed at the time, also when I drive it the temp gauge will almost "but doesn't" get into the hot (red) mark but then goes right back into the middle. Any help would be greatly appreciated
  • jimvenedociajimvenedocia Posts: 11
    edited January 2011
    I got 2.5 gallons of (LOOKED LIKE MURKY RIVER WATER) but tested at -18.c
    My question is is this enough antifreeze for the heater to blow heat? I will be putting
    in 3 gallons of straight anti freeze tomorrow then top it off with distilled water, I hope this
    fixes my heat issue. If not then I'm back to square one and still open for suggestions.
  • Continuation, I drained the radiator and replaced with 3.5 gallons of new 50/50 I saw some small bubbling in the coolant bottle, this time I heard some noise around the water pump so I did the (screwdriver to the ear trick) and it sound like it coming from the water pump, would a bad water pump make it so it doesn't produce hot air? Come on man I've posted three times and no answers, someone throw me a bone here. Thanks...I also made sure the radiator was clear because I ran some of the old antifreeze through the top rad inlet and the same amount drained out the bottom.
  • How long does it take to get an answer around here? lol...
  • How about a plugged heater core, a stuck thermostat or a broken blend door?
  • Thanks for your response, did you read where I installed a new t-stat and already cut into the blend door and revealed it was bad? and that it didnt matter where I (by hand) put the door position in it still blew cold air? Seeing how the water pump is making a noise I didnt notice before I will be replacing it. Thanks again.
  • I'd agree the water pump is the next place to look.
  • Thats my job for today, will let you know. Thanks a million,
  • jimvenedociajimvenedocia Posts: 11
    edited January 2011
    The water pump was the culprit, for anyone's further information the clutch fan nut 32mm loosens counter clockwise NOT clockwise like I was told by the counter person at Autozone, he read what the book said but the book is wrong they loosen counter clockwise. I found the quickest and least painful way to loosen the clutch fan nut is with a muffler impact with a straight blade, just take it slow. Job completed.
  • Nice and toasty warm now?
  • Yes sir! all toasty here in Ohio now, just wanted to pass this knowledge on and hope it will be helpful to the next person.
  • Hot upper radiator hose, cold lower radiator hose and cold heater core hoses, you may have a water pump that has gone bad, mine, the propeller came un attached to the shaft and was just free spinning, it never leaked and only made a very minimal amount of noise. Its January in Ohio so it never over heated but the temp gauge would spike almost to "HOT" then return to normal. Hope this helps.
  • Nice follow through, we've been missing that here for a while.
  • jimvenedociajimvenedocia Posts: 11
    edited January 2011
    I know when I came in looking for solutions I was desperate, I hope it will
    make somebodys elses diagnostics easier. Thanks
    I just ordered my blend door (previous issue) and followed the HeaterTreater video on You Tube. I will let you all know the outcome of that also.
  • ksorenksoren Posts: 5
    I keep reading that replacing water pump has fixed the No-Heat problem on several threads. My 98 Expedition front/rear HVAC has several of the symptons I'm reading:

    I have no signs of leakage of coolant anywhere
    I have no noise or cavitation fron the pump
    I have drained & flushed radiator, both heater cores
    T-Stat has been replaced (hard to determine when it opens because engine temp remains below standard, 180 degrees); after a long drive the upper hose & heater hose are hot but not as hot as they should be.

    How can I test the water pump efficiency without removing or replacing it?
  • ...but the rear heater-A/C unit kicks on but nothing comes out of the vents? Anyone have this problem before? It is an '05 XLT

    Thanks, Scott
  • did you try switching from floor to ceiling?
  • Yes. There is a push button in the rear control area and it did nothing. Makes me think a faulty relay, but the DVD system still works through it.
  • Are you sure nothing is coming out of the floor and it just won't switch to ceiling? I as because the blend door actuators in the rear have a tendancy to break.
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