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Do some reading on the Florida and NY DMV website. You should find your answer there. Since it is a friend of yours, fly down or take the train and stay a few days.
sold 7/24/08 in PA mileage reported 31,585. Owner moved to Indiana and they issued Not actual mileage title on 8/19/08 at 33,494.
It looks very clean like it could be that mileage. Runs rough though. I am going to get a friend knowledgeable about cars to look at it. Owner had papers that she said were from previous owner. Said she had it tuned up a year ago and it didn't help.
Over 9 years seems a long time to be a rental. Any thoughts. Should I run? :lemon:
Of far more concern would be the fact that the present owner has tried to get it running right and hasn't been able to do so.
I don't think I've ever seen a car more than two or three years old at ANY car rental agency. Anyone else?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I'd run the other way on that one. It spent time sitting doing nothing?
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Then I have to wait about a week until the leasing company sends the seller the "pink slip" (i am in california) and then i will get that from the seller, at which point i can reigster the vehicle in my name.
does that sound right? i have never purchased a car from someone who still had to pay off the leasing company.
will a sales receipt from the seller be sufficient and safe for me to hand over the payment in full?
i am wondering if anyone has done this before, or has any well-founded advice/experience with this type of transaction.
thanks in advance!
Also, it's wise to verify that he's the actual leaseholder.
Exactly---because it doesn't exist---well, the truck DOES exist, but it's a cut and paste from someone else's ad.
The scammer doesn't have a car. He only has PHOTOS of a car.
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That's a pretty lame scam. Should have at least made the price $12k to make it sound halfway reasonable.
I think they are counting on impulse rather than reason.
1) Payment - he's open to how to make the payment and working out the details transfer of ownership. He's willing to do cashiers check, wire transfers, or possibly cash - but the last wouldn't be possible until he came back next month since he's leaving town Tuesday a.m. He's also willing to pay a cash deposit to hold the car.
2) DMV transfer - let's say I take a private check but hold on to the car/pink slip until it clears the banks and then have this local family take the car. How would DMV transfers work in that case. Does the new owner have to be there for the transfer?
Under no circumstances give either the car or the title to anyone until your payment is fully cleared and sitting in your bank account, with no "pending" status. A cashier's check is easily forged and may even be accepted for deposit (your local bank may have no way of knowing if it is a fake or not, until they try to cash it themselves).
And don't "hold" the car for 30 days or until he comes back---it only takes a few days to initiate a wire transfer or write and send a check as soon as he returns home from this weekend.
"Trust but Verify".
Why might he do that? Well, what if he writes a check, based on the bank saying "yeah, he has that in his account" and he takes the car, and it breaks down the next day---he might very well cancel the check, with some justification perhaps.
Thanks.
Based on your user name, you might be in MA. There is no sales tax in MA on sales between close relatives. Check out this link:
http://www.mass.gov/rmv/regs/reg3.htm
It's an '08 used car, for what it's worth.
Thanks again
Thanks in advance for any replies or information.
NY requires a title document. Does Florida have an actual title document that the seller signs over or is there some other form of ownership proof like a "pink slip" as in California? I'd hate to get the vehicle back up here and find I can't register it.
Lastly, do you get some sort of temp tags to do the drive up the coast? I'm not sure how that works either.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Best thing I could suggest is getting info about this right from the horse's mouth.
So click on the city where your dream car is located (if you know) and it'll show you the contact info you need to call Florida DMV and ask these questions:
FLORIDA DMV OFFICES
What makes you think that all cars in Florida are "rust free"? If the car lives near the beach, you may find plenty of rust.
Remember, you're talking to an upstate NY boy. Up here the cars are delivered new with rusted out fenders. We've been to the Tampa area and the cars are showroom new in comparision. I've seen a lot of 30 yo cars that look like they just rolled off the assembly line.
Thanks for the link.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
But a car in a garage will probably be fine.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
but I owe money on my current car.
I have about 7,000 in equity in my car though
Can I do a loan with the $7,000 included in the loan and once I sell my car put the $7,000 towards my loan?
There is a better chance that the next rapture prophesy will come true.
Only other issue in your way is if a bank will give you a car loan while you already have a car loan on another car.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
To sell at a "good price" you need a) a good car to start with and b) skillful composition and presentation in the advert.
Common errors in car ads:
1. Lousy photos---get a good camera, take your time.
2. Misspelling the car's name (bad idea). My favorites are "Camero" and "Alpha Romero". :P
3. No details (is it an automatic? Does it have X or Y? Mileage? Carfax?
4. No price (very annoying)
5. Harsh language, e.g. "take it or leave it"/ "no flakes"/ price is firm, no haggling/ if you don't know what these cars are worth, don't waste my time/ etc etc
Also, you have to price it right. If you get no phone calls, or 2 or 3 walk aways, you're above market most likely.
If you visit the real-world trade-in values discussion here, right above the post-a-message box is a list of details we ask you to include to get a more accurate price evaluation. If you use that as a checklist when writing a for sale ad, you'll be in good shape relative to the competition.
Re: #2 - how about that Camaray?
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Some are really popular, though:
- "Will Sell Fast"
- Pictures out of date: Snow on the ground in August; fall foliage in May, etc.
- Junked-up trunks & interiors
- Details that aren't. E.g. the Taurus with the "3.0 l V6." Yeah, but which one? Or the conversion van with "bench makes into a bed." Really?
- Listing problems and advertising "easily fixed."
- Even better: "Needs a little TLC" without stating what's up.
OTOH, I've heard people say they always leave out one or two important details, while providing plenty of useful information, so people have a reason to call.
Terry of blessed memory once advised me on leaving out possible deal killers; like a short bed on a fullsize truck. He said some people won't even look at it if it's a shorty, when in reality it might be big enough for them.
So leave it out; if they ask, it's a short bed, if not, leave it alone. Sure enough, the guy who bought my 07 Silverado was coming from a 95 F150 longbed and had been looking for another. Mine was a good deal, so he took it anyway.
Cheers -Mathias
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