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Geo Metro Electrical Problems

Ok..New batt, alt, belt has been replaced/adjusted. Multimeter reads 11.7-12.7 while in idle with all accessories off. However, if the lights are on or defrost on...etc(including the radio, but it needs t be loud as hell to even notice the difference) the voltage plummets. I mean as low as 4 VDC. If I'm actually out and about she'll die me fast. "Haynes" isn't much help, so can any one out there figure out the common place where they would all tie together? I thought about the voltage regulator, but have no clue how to bench/or on unit check it. Any ideas? Fuses are all good too; at least the ones under the driver side dash and the fuse box under the hood.

Comments

  • ggeeooggeeoo Posts: 94
    You have a break in one of the wires. More than likely at
    the break lights.
  • I have the same problem....Define breaklights
  • 2000 metro.4 cyl.i have new batt. new alt.the starter is real slow when trying to turn over engine.am getting over 14 volts at batt. , lights are bright. where is voltage regulator in this car? any diagnosing tips? happy new year.
  • I need to find where the voltage regulator is on a 2000 chev metro. Is it on the alternator? any ideas on diagnosing charging output? happy newyear.
  • Had the same problem, replaced alt. Voltage stays at 13.8 with headlights and A/C on. Voltage regulator should be inside the alt.
  • battery was checked by battery shop and is okay, however the wife did leave the lights on for several hours before. charged the battery back up;drove 11 miles to work...cold weather but only after 8 hrs it didn't start...dead...alternator appears to be okay.. what's the problem? Also the engine compartment has some rattle coming from the drivers side?
  • zendenzenden Posts: 62
    I would say that it has bad diodes in the alternator. this is most likely the reason that you had to replace the bat in the first place. If the diodes are bad in the alternator the voltage drops, it must produce 13.7 volts to charge that bat properly. Because the diodes are bad and the bat is new, you will not often see any trouble with the system, only when you discharge the bat to far for it to recover with that week alt. To prove that you have this problem with bad diodes get a dc volt meter start the car and turn everything on! create a full load on the system! then hook up your volt meter to the bat if it reads less then 13.7 volts then your alternator is BAD! As long as you never drain that bat down below 30 percent charged this monster will never leave you broak down; but once that bat becomes 2 or 3 years old the alternator will not be stronge enough to charge it up enough to keep you going. Your alt has 6 Diodes, they burn out for 2 reasons! (1) age!, or (2) giving or getting a hot shot! An alternator produces (AC) alternate currant; a bat will only take a charge from (DC) direct currant. The diodes convert AC to DC; they are delicate, and are like a one way valve, making the elect. flow one way only. When 2 car are connected together by jumper cables; one is running and the other one starts the 2 DC come together and blow out the delicate diodes; then the Volts drop below the needed 13.7 that it takes to properly charge a 12 Volt bat. in any car.
    I hope that this helps you!
  • i got voltage to ignition coil but not sure how much hardly nothing at spark plugs tried two sets of wires different distr. different rotor, diff. cap different engine. im assuming crank shaft sensor wiring problem or pcm problem any help please!! How do i check voltage to cps and how do i check pcm to se if it is working properly.
  • I have replaced my ecm twice and when i try to start engine....I get 3 pulses to the throttle body injector and no run pulses (noid light) I am able to keep the engine running if I spray gas into the carb. any ideas why the ecm won't fire the injector?
  • I've installed a 93 1.0 in my 96 Metro, and changed the intake and exhaust manifolds to accomadate the wiring of the 96. Won't start! I found the 93 engine has no crank sensor. Is there a way to install a crank sensor in the 93 engine?
  • When you turn the car on, just the driver side light comes on. I assume these lights turn on automatically when the car is running. The left light don't do anything even after I replaced the bulb. Finally, I checked the three wires connecting to the backside of the bulb connector and grounded the center one out because it seemed to be the ground and the light turns on, but if I turn the actuall light swith on, they go alot dimmer. I think the other two wires are for low and high beam. So for the last few days, I've had to open the hood and ground that wire out to get home after dark and then now, this last time I did it, the whole engine just died as soon as I grounded it. I've checked fuses and they seem to be fine.
  • I loos all power when I turn the key to start, fuses and relays are good batter is at 12.85 V , the lights are intermitant at best, I moved some wires and got the insterment panel light to come on a little brighter but still will not start, when you push on the brake petal all lights and power go a way .
  • Can't get my inspection sticker. Checked individual circuit fuses, all good. Swapped out a horn from my son's 98 Swift. No go. Not smart enough to check electrical connections. Any ideas.

    2000 Chevy Metro, 1.0, 5 speed.
  • Brakes are fine when car is cold but after warm up the brake pedal goes totally hard after two or three pumps. Very scary in Houston traffic. Was told this might be some type of vacuum issue. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
  • On my 99 metro one light is significantly dimmer than the other, the right side is ok the left works but dimmer, changed bulbs no difference. this is the same whether the running light or the headlights. I am pretty handy with a vehicle however on this one i am stumped. I thank you for your help
  • hithis is steve martin from canada nice to here friends
  • hi starter how are you this is your old friend steve dude
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