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Pontiac Grand Am Starting/Stalling Problems



  • Sounds like you need a new alternator.
  • my1stcarmy1stcar Posts: 1
    i dont know what to do about my car i dont want to take it to a shop to get the oil changed when i know how to expect this is my first car and i have to reset something when i change the oil i dont know where the button or what ever is cause i dont have an owners manual , as far as starting , its pretty good except i have to knock the starter off its hot spot cause i burnt it up when my battery went dead other wise i LOVE MY CAR! But if any one can tell me where to look or what to do about the oil change i would really appreciate it!!! :confuse:
  • cjdaviscjdavis Posts: 4
    1995 Dual Overhead Cam 2.3 l engine - idles rough at 500 rpm with low power & hesitates when accelerator is push. When I put it into gear, it stalls/dies.

    I have replaced the sprak plugs, and the ignition coils.

    Any Ideas?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Check the fuel pressure and flow rate. Could be the fuel pump.
  • cjdaviscjdavis Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply.

    I checked the fuel pressure - it is fine. I also checked to ensure that the fuel injectors are working correctly. They are.

    More History - I could have included a little more history that would have been helpfull. I completely rebuilt the engine (new pistons, rings, bearings, etc. and had the cylinder head machined. When everyting was reassembled, the engine started, but idled really rough, the brake pedal was hard, and the air would only come out of the top vent - no matter the setting. The car ran great on the road.

    I did some research and found that I had the Brake Booster vacuum hose in the wrong place. I corrected the vacuum hose problems, and tried again. No change. When the MAP vacuum line was removed from the intake manifold, the engine ran better.

    Not finding any other vacuum leaks, I resorted to the intake manifold since I had removed the intake manifold after it was torqued down to get to some wiring. I installed a new intake manifold gasket, and started the car. The engine was hard to start (similar to an the old days of the choke) and had a strong emissions oder. I had a good brake pedal, but once started, the engine ran poorly and would die if left idling, or as soon as it was put into gear.

    I changed the spark plugs, no luck.

    This had happened once before a little over a year ago. The diagnosis was a bad coil. The coils were replaced and it ran fine for a year.
  • CJ try changing your Idle Air Control Valve. I had the same problem wit my 2001 Grand Am but it runs fine now that i changed it.
  • cjdaviscjdavis Posts: 4
    Thanks - Will give it a try.
  • chachiechachie Posts: 1
    HELP I replaced my engine with a reman box engine and had my trany rebuilt. The car will not stay running at idle, have checked all vacuum lines and checked plenum and intake for leaks. I have replaced all injectors. The fuel pressure is about 44 psi with the key on. about 35 cranking. I have done a compression test and all cylinders are in spec. I have no clue what to do now. the car will start ,but you have to keep your foot on the gas to keep it running , it will drive down the road but takes forever to get to speed . I am also thinking that the cat converter may now be clogging . Please help ,I have just put new tires and struts and springs on all 4 have invested alot of money in this car any suggestions will be helpfull
  • craigw3craigw3 Posts: 1
    Car stalls at higher speeds from 40 to 70 mph. Car will not start again for
    another 5 to 10 minutes. Mechanics could not find the problem so far. I
    am wondering if it could be a sensor? This is an ongoing problem.
  • kenny63kenny63 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Grand Am, I am having a problem with the starter. When I turn on the key everything works,except when I can try to start the car and the starter doesn't do anything, not even a noise. I have had the starter checked at Auto Zone and it shows to be good, I also had the battery checked and it also showed to be good. Also all the connections are clean. Could there be a safety switch somewhere causing this problem. Please help
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Yes it could be a safety switch, but it could also be the ignition switch. If you can , see if voltage is being applied to the solenoid on the starter when the key is turned to the start position.
    Is there an aftermarket security system installed? It could also be the problem.
    Also, have you tried to start it in neutral?
  • This morning I went to drive to class and noticed my gas guage was low. I know I filled it up last week. So I was like ok I guess I used it all? I figured I could make it to the gas station. The needle was below the last notch. I was like there is no way my tank is empty. I make it down the road and it started jerking. I turned around and made it back up the driveway and parked it. No leaks. No gas smell. So im guessing its the fuel injector or fuel pump? Does this sound right?. If so how long does it take to fix?. I'm sure I can do it myself ;)

    Also I had a problem with the dexcool myself. Last summer A gasket blew and my coolant leaked out like someone tipped over a 2 liter. Had it fixed and it leaked again. So I fixed it myself. Tore the engine apart and put in all metal gaskets. Flushed the dexcool out and went back to the old green stuff. Havent had a problem yet. Engine runs good and no leaks. I will never put dexcool back in my car again.
  • corbin_09corbin_09 Posts: 3
    My problem is like most others here, the car wont start. I'm not sure if its the passlock failing because the security light is on solid when I start it and when its in the ON position. At first, the light used to flash and I would try the resetting method, in which worked briefly. Now, the intermittent cranking problems have drained my brand new battery. I tried boosting it about three weeks ago, and it drove perfectly for three days. However, when I tried the same thing two weeks ago, it fired up without hesitation and just completely powered off about three minutes after I started it.
    Its not the fuel pump because I replaced that with a brand new one in October of last year, and I'm hearing the fuel pump engage when the car is in the ON position. One more thing: it sometimes shuts completely off while I'm driving, and that's scary! I'm tired of the trial and error fixing with this car. There have been thousands of $$$ spent between the dealership and one-the-side mechanics for the same issues recurring... could someone please help diagnose this problem!!!
  • i think i might need a new fuel pump but wondering what i can do before i pay alot for that...

    if my car sits over night or while im at work it cranks but wont start right up. once it turns over i try starting it a couple times but wont stay running til about the third try. but from then on runs great and i can turn it off and on with no problems. its only when it sits for a while.

    does this sound like a fuel pump problem or something else? any answers will help
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    It could be, but from your description it could also be a problem with the cold start enrichment, the "choke" for fuel injected cars, since it only seems to occur when it's been sitting and has cooled down.
    The fuel pump can be tested for pressure and flow rate to get an idea of it's condition.
  • Sounds like the issue lies in the Security System. With the key in the on position (not start position), is the security light flashing? If yes, wait ten minutes till the light goes out. Turn off the ignition switch and then re-start the car. I found out the hard way, a tow and a shop bill. The second time I found the solution on the net. Happens once a month now. Could be the Ignition Switch or the OBC, either way a grand to fix.
  • ja33ja33 Posts: 23
    At 36,000 miles my 2001 Olds Alero started having passlock starting problems. At first it was every other month and then after 2 years it happened with every other turn of the key. Since I am not the least bit mechanically inclined, I tried any and all procedures suggested on the internet except cutting wires, or installing a new switch. Eight months ago I decided to clean the grooves on my ignition key with a squirt of 3 in 1 oil. THE CAR STARTED RIGHT UP. I did it again for the next 3 days to gain little confidence in the procedure. THE ALERO CONTINUES TO START EVERY TIME

    Now once a month I oil the key, push it in and out of the switch slowly a couple times. When starting the car, do not jam the key in quickly and turn. Take your time. It seems to be a very sensitive switch, and needs a little TLC to prevent dirt build up. Try it. A little 3 in 1 oil squirt might save you a $500 repair bill. I told my GM dealer mechanic about this solution. He said "Yeah, it might work"

    Other Olds Alero have tried this and it really works. Let me know if you try and it solves your starting security problem.
  • Hey Guys and Gals,

    I posted not too long ago about my girlfriends 2003 Grand AM GT Ram Air not starting we had changed the Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuse and Fuel Filter. It all started happening once every 6 months then it became more often. We had checked everything from Fuel Pump, Battery, Alternator and Starter, I had checked at another website about replacing the Entire Ignition Switch and the BCM. I replaced it and it only cost $150.00 for both parts from a donor car in the wreckers and now the issue is gone. I decided to post this because replacing those parts from the wreckers can be cheaper than replacing your Fuel Pump. Goodluck to the ppl having issues with their cars.
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