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Older Chevy and GMC C/K Series (20+ years) General Discussion



  • Alrighty, My trucks got massive problems. The ignition doesn't work so my father installed a switch that grounds a wire to get the starter going, and when that fails I'm forced to ground the wire directly to a bolt under the hood, and when that fails I'm forced to stick a long screwdriver down past the engine to cross the starter directly. The switch fails because it wasn't designed for the volts needed, but does work at least 2 times a day before and after work :). Now I have no idea why the ignition fails in the first place. I've recently replaced the ignition switch and cylinder, but that hasnt changed anything. My father said it's had this problem for a long time, even with a new starter, probably because 1/2 the parts are still the original diesel. I'm going to have to change the starter soon anyway. I'm having to smack it for it to work some days, and crossing the wires isn't exactly a good thing for it. Any ideas? I've currently got a 350 v8 gas engine out of a 94' chevy van, but it's about to go. Refer to "79' Sierra Classic New engine?" about what engine might be in my truck.
  • I everyone, I'm new to the forum and I have a question: I'm looking at a 1989 GMC 4x4, short box, V8 with 106,000 original miles (or so the owner says) on it. The body has been repainted and the interior looks good. I'm taking it for a test drive next week and I'm going to have my mechanic give it the squint eye. What should I be looking out for with this particular model? Thanks in advance!
  • Cindy:

    If I were you, I would have bought the truck. The small things (rust, etc) can easily be fixed, and yes, it is correct - technically this truck already is a classic. I am personally considering a K5 Blazer.
  • The truck is a 5.7L 2WD with only 137K on it and I hope to keep it forever.

    I recently disconnected and bypassed the oil cooler hoses from the radiator while troubleshooting a curious high oil pressure indication. When I went to reconnect the hoses I found the lower fitting on the radiator stripped (the rad was replaced several years ago, too late to raise a warranty issue).

    The nut that threads into the radiator is fine.

    My question is...Is the female thread in the radiator an insert, sort of like a helicoil, or is the thread milled into the radiator body?

    I'd really prefer to not have to put in another new radiator.

    Any ideas?

  • 1986 Chevrolet truck, 350 engine, ¾ ton, 4 speed manual – bought the truck recently, after replacing carburetor, distributor, cap, rotor, wires, vacuum hoses, radiator, thermostat, also pulled emission controls off. I hauled a 27’ 5th wheel to the lake (80 miles), no problems and ran and pulled good, on the way back it developed a dead spot in acceleration between acceleration and de-acceleration. The exhaust smells gaseous. Checked all the vacuum hoses, connections, etc., adjusted timing. What now?

  • I just bought this truck,it has 78,000 miles on it and I thought it was a good deal, 350 engine,auto. I have several issues:
    Heater: I can't get the heat off the floor. It won't blow on the mid range dash vents or on defrost. I have removed and taken apart all three actuators and they all seem to work. I have pulled apart as much of the dash as I can to get to the vents thinking they might be jammed or rusted shut. I am unable to get close enough to manually open them. I noticed the radio controls for speaker settings are sketchy and wondered if it isn't the push button controls for the heater system that are bad.

    4 wheel drive went out on me Christmas morning, stranding me in the sand for a couple of hours.It went into 4 high, the fell out into 2 wheel only. I have the stick on the floor shifter system, light doesn't go on. I had to be pulled out. I have read about the "shift actuator" in other posts. Maybe that's it, I don't know. I figure with the low miles and barley used 4 wheel drive by previous owner, it can't be anything big like the transfer case. I can't figure out why they don't make these actuators fail in 4x4 only so you don't get stranded in 2 wheel drive..

    Radiator leaks. I can handle that though. Kind of disappointed as I am used to old Jeep CJ's with manual hubs and go anywhere attidtude.

    Body is in great shape and it is a looker. I want to get it up to speed mechanically and drive it lightly. I appreciate any help.
  • I think my power steering cooler is leaking. Anybody know how to get to it? It is attached to the radiator on the side. I can see it though the grill. Maybe I have to remove the grill to get at it?

  • just had new shocks put on drove it about 100 miles.went to go out started when i put it in gear .manual it sounded like metel 2 metal screaming it does it sometimes when i try changing gears.can someone help me PLEASE? sparkles2
  • Just bought 1975 K20, 350eng, Holley Carb and others, it starts right up, idles great, put it in drive or reverse no problems... press on the accelerator and it wants to die, for 1 i was told the Holley carb is probably in need of some adjusting, but they can be a pain in the neck, and frankly i have no idea what i'm doing, haven't checked the timing yet but that'll be next, please someone give me some tips, i'm an automotive idiot
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