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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Oil Questions

c2cpc2cp Posts: 11
my oil gauge on my 93 s10 moves rapidly up and down at low rpm and when the clutch is engaged at first I thought the problem was in the gauge or sender unit but i noticed when this is happening the engine idles rough.When I first start it up or when I get moving its just fine.would anyone have a solution for this problem?thanks


  • Well i know that i have a bunch of stupid small problems, that are fiaxable, but annoying, and i know we all do. But to name a few, i can't get my passgenger side door to close like it should, its been slamed a few too many times and it doesn't want to close like it came out of the factory, haha. how can i fix this? another small problem is my dash lights a few behind the gauges are out and im not sure how to replace them. Its a 1992 s10 that i bought a few months ago from some people that didn't take the BEST care of it... but its something that drives
  • cgpscgps Posts: 1
    I just went through the door closing issue and found that the door hing pin bushings on my 1993 were shot. You can get a hing pin and bushing kit at your local auto parts store.
  • Judt bought my 96 s10 it has 245000 miles. When it starts it idles very rough (had to replace a motor mount) until it warms up then she idles and runs great. I have replaced teh throttle position sensor already. Any ideas??
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    What kind of engine? When is the last time you tuned it up? 245K miles on the same engine is pretty good. My experience with a bad throttle position sensor has been regardless of temp when idling the engine speeds up, slows down, speeds up, slows down. Does the check engine light come on? Have you had the codes read?
    Good luck. :)
  • gmgrlgmgrl Posts: 2
    I have a 99 S10 Xtreme, and up until now i havent had too many problems with my truck... the cat went on it when it was still under warranty thank god... but the other day it was -40 out and it was plugged in so she should have started but she never did.. put it in the garage let it thaw out and still didnt start.. when you turn your key, you can hear the fuel pump make noise, and now when you turn the key it doesnt make that noise, there is power.. i am assuming that it is the fuel pump, which is a pretty expensive part.. has any had any problem with there fuel pumps.. my truck has only 119,000 kms on it... that doesnt seem right to me that it would go that soon>>
  • Its the 4 cylinder and I put new wires and plugs in last week. Check Engine light has come on but the code reader at the local advance auto parts read and cleared the code but would not download the info to the computer to print out the problem. So I wait for the SES light to go on again
  • Well since i posted this i tried a number of things. But it wasn't the fuel pump. It was a carb sensor and temperature sensor that was shorted and the carb sensor just went nuts, haha. But i found out that this was the problem through diagnostic testing. When your check engine light comes on it should mean it has a diagnostic code stored. and if you had a diag. reader ( i wouldn't suggest buying one right away ) it figures it out for you. Can't live with the technology and can't live with out it... oh the irony, haha
  • joeinwijoeinwi Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 01 Sonoma 4x4 with 32K miles. It is using about 1 quart of oil per oil change (I now have 39K miles on it). I am getting conflicting stories that this is actually the norm for this vehicle but this doesn't "feel" right to me. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Also, is it normal for the steering to be very stiff at idle? THank you in advance for any insight to this issue. I love this little truck but am concerned about it with such low mileage.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I have a 92 S-10 V6 with 210k miles that doesn't use any oil. Last fall however, I replaced the valve stem seals.
  • lwh9854lwh9854 Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 s-10 2.2 L, manual trans, 2 wheel drive, AC, 184K. I have an oil leak and am having a difficult time determining the cause. Generally doesn't use much oil. Seems to only leak when driving (under pressure). It appears as if it is coming from the right side of the engine slightly behind and below the oil filter. It is really hard to determine the location, but it is near the DIS ignition modules. I understand the crankshaft sensor that works as a distributor is somewhere near the location. I do not know where the oil pressure sensor is located. At first glance it doesn't appear to be coming from the oil pan gasket, the valve cover gasket or the front or rear seal. It is also fairly clean around the oil filter. I don't believe there is an oil cooler on it (at least I couldn't find any hoses or anything near the oil filter or the radiator). Could it be a leak on the crankshaft sensor or oil pressure sensor? And where is the oil pressure sensor?
  • See my Point now?
    It Starts out an Oil Problem Question, and becomes a door hinge and dash light issue.
  • I need to replace the lower door hinge bushings on a 2001 S 10. Never done it! Any advise?
  • azbigdogazbigdog Posts: 3
    I have a 99 GMC Sonoma 2.2 L4 has 150,000 miles on it. My son was driving it and said engine has a funny sound and was smoking. I tried to start truck and after several tries, got it started. Went for a short drive. Seemed to run okay for a while. Then engine started to run rough and finally die. Got it re-started and limped home. Noticed low oil pressure (approx 20 psi) and when I finally parked smoke came from under hood. Smoke is coming from upper part of engine. I looked for an oil leak but compartment seems dry. Oil level is normal. Oil change is coming due soon so oil is normal color. Truck is used mostly as a commuter and has mostly highway miles on it. Anyone have a suggestion?

  • gonogogonogo Posts: 871
    Check the oil pressure with test gauge, but I think the engine is gone.
    My 99 runs 60 psi hot at 1500 rpm, rarely goes under 40 psi when idling hot.
  • azbigdogazbigdog Posts: 3
    Well, I did some more snooping around and discovered a crack in the upper part of the radiator. I replaced the radiator and coolant and then drove the truck. Something weird that happens is that the temp gauge will stay very low (approx 100 degrees) for the first 4 miles of driving then spike up to operating temperature then climb steadily to 235 degrees and above. (keep in mind it is 110 degrees outside) Also the oil pressure seems fine until the spike occurs then hovers around 40 psi while driving with drops to 20 psi at idle. I will replace the thermostat to see if this helps with the temp problem. The oil pressure issue has me a little worried. Is it possible to removed the oil pan for access to the oil pump without pull the engine out?


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