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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Oil Questions

c2cpc2cp Posts: 11
edited July 27 in Chevrolet
my oil gauge on my 93 s10 moves rapidly up and down at low rpm and when the clutch is engaged at first I thought the problem was in the gauge or sender unit but i noticed when this is happening the engine idles rough.When I first start it up or when I get moving its just fine.would anyone have a solution for this problem?thanks
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Comments

  • Well i know that i have a bunch of stupid small problems, that are fiaxable, but annoying, and i know we all do. But to name a few, i can't get my passgenger side door to close like it should, its been slamed a few too many times and it doesn't want to close like it came out of the factory, haha. how can i fix this? another small problem is my dash lights a few behind the gauges are out and im not sure how to replace them. Its a 1992 s10 that i bought a few months ago from some people that didn't take the BEST care of it... but its something that drives
  • cgpscgps Posts: 1
    I just went through the door closing issue and found that the door hing pin bushings on my 1993 were shot. You can get a hing pin and bushing kit at your local auto parts store.
  • Judt bought my 96 s10 it has 245000 miles. When it starts it idles very rough (had to replace a motor mount) until it warms up then she idles and runs great. I have replaced teh throttle position sensor already. Any ideas??
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    What kind of engine? When is the last time you tuned it up? 245K miles on the same engine is pretty good. My experience with a bad throttle position sensor has been regardless of temp when idling the engine speeds up, slows down, speeds up, slows down. Does the check engine light come on? Have you had the codes read?
    Good luck. :)
  • gmgrlgmgrl Posts: 2
    I have a 99 S10 Xtreme, and up until now i havent had too many problems with my truck... the cat went on it when it was still under warranty thank god... but the other day it was -40 out and it was plugged in so she should have started but she never did.. put it in the garage let it thaw out and still didnt start.. when you turn your key, you can hear the fuel pump make noise, and now when you turn the key it doesnt make that noise, there is power.. i am assuming that it is the fuel pump, which is a pretty expensive part.. has any had any problem with there fuel pumps.. my truck has only 119,000 kms on it... that doesnt seem right to me that it would go that soon>>
  • Its the 4 cylinder and I put new wires and plugs in last week. Check Engine light has come on but the code reader at the local advance auto parts read and cleared the code but would not download the info to the computer to print out the problem. So I wait for the SES light to go on again
  • Well since i posted this i tried a number of things. But it wasn't the fuel pump. It was a carb sensor and temperature sensor that was shorted and the carb sensor just went nuts, haha. But i found out that this was the problem through diagnostic testing. When your check engine light comes on it should mean it has a diagnostic code stored. and if you had a diag. reader ( i wouldn't suggest buying one right away ) it figures it out for you. Can't live with the technology and can't live with out it... oh the irony, haha
  • joeinwijoeinwi Posts: 2
    I recently bought a 01 Sonoma 4x4 with 32K miles. It is using about 1 quart of oil per oil change (I now have 39K miles on it). I am getting conflicting stories that this is actually the norm for this vehicle but this doesn't "feel" right to me. Has anyone else had a similar experience? Also, is it normal for the steering to be very stiff at idle? THank you in advance for any insight to this issue. I love this little truck but am concerned about it with such low mileage.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I have a 92 S-10 V6 with 210k miles that doesn't use any oil. Last fall however, I replaced the valve stem seals.
  • lwh9854lwh9854 Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 s-10 2.2 L, manual trans, 2 wheel drive, AC, 184K. I have an oil leak and am having a difficult time determining the cause. Generally doesn't use much oil. Seems to only leak when driving (under pressure). It appears as if it is coming from the right side of the engine slightly behind and below the oil filter. It is really hard to determine the location, but it is near the DIS ignition modules. I understand the crankshaft sensor that works as a distributor is somewhere near the location. I do not know where the oil pressure sensor is located. At first glance it doesn't appear to be coming from the oil pan gasket, the valve cover gasket or the front or rear seal. It is also fairly clean around the oil filter. I don't believe there is an oil cooler on it (at least I couldn't find any hoses or anything near the oil filter or the radiator). Could it be a leak on the crankshaft sensor or oil pressure sensor? And where is the oil pressure sensor?
  • See my Point now?
    It Starts out an Oil Problem Question, and becomes a door hinge and dash light issue.
  • I need to replace the lower door hinge bushings on a 2001 S 10. Never done it! Any advise?
    Thanks,
    Steve
  • azbigdogazbigdog Posts: 3
    I have a 99 GMC Sonoma 2.2 L4 has 150,000 miles on it. My son was driving it and said engine has a funny sound and was smoking. I tried to start truck and after several tries, got it started. Went for a short drive. Seemed to run okay for a while. Then engine started to run rough and finally die. Got it re-started and limped home. Noticed low oil pressure (approx 20 psi) and when I finally parked smoke came from under hood. Smoke is coming from upper part of engine. I looked for an oil leak but compartment seems dry. Oil level is normal. Oil change is coming due soon so oil is normal color. Truck is used mostly as a commuter and has mostly highway miles on it. Anyone have a suggestion?

    Al
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    Check the oil pressure with test gauge, but I think the engine is gone.
    My 99 runs 60 psi hot at 1500 rpm, rarely goes under 40 psi when idling hot.
  • azbigdogazbigdog Posts: 3
    Well, I did some more snooping around and discovered a crack in the upper part of the radiator. I replaced the radiator and coolant and then drove the truck. Something weird that happens is that the temp gauge will stay very low (approx 100 degrees) for the first 4 miles of driving then spike up to operating temperature then climb steadily to 235 degrees and above. (keep in mind it is 110 degrees outside) Also the oil pressure seems fine until the spike occurs then hovers around 40 psi while driving with drops to 20 psi at idle. I will replace the thermostat to see if this helps with the temp problem. The oil pressure issue has me a little worried. Is it possible to removed the oil pan for access to the oil pump without pull the engine out?

    Thanks,

    Al
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    I have read it is easier to pull the engine. I have never pulled a pan on the Sonoma, but have with other vehicles by removing the mount bolts and jacking it up.
  • azbigdogazbigdog Posts: 3
    Well, no need to pull the pan, found out the block is cracked and thus a new engine is required. Anybody know what a new/rebuilt engine for a 99 GMC Sonoma 2.2 L4 runs?

    Al :sick:
  • fstuterfstuter Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 sonoma 5 speed manual shift 4.3 with 94,000 miles on it.My problem is that when it is cold it runs just fine but as soon as it warms up the oil pressure drops,but when i shift it goes back up untill i am in gear and driving it drops back down.The rpms are up the oil pressure goes up but in idle it drops down.This just started today so i don't want to keep guessing does anyone have any solution??
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    It sounds like the oil pan has to come off to find the culprit. My neighbor had a similar problem with is 2000 4.3. Once we got the oil pan off we found it spun a rod bearing. Sometimes if routine maintenance isn't done the oil pump pick up screen gets clogged up. Sometimes the oil pump gets week. 94K miles is pretty low for a 1995. I would think the bearings are in pretty good shape if the engine hasn't been dogged out. Is it possible your oil-sending unit isn't lying to you? I just change out one on my kids Corsica. It had an aneurysm and was leaking oil very drastic. They’re inexpensive and not too hard to change out. I used a deep wall 15/16th. I would prefer to do that first before dropping the oil pan. In my neighbors case it was a 4.3 in a full size van and it wasn't any problem getting the pan off. On a Sonoma you'll probably have to loosen a few things and jack the engine up to get the clearance. Good luck.
  • My 95 blazer oil press drops at idle 20-25 psi then at normal rpm 40-45 psi has over 200,000. try and install a gauge to see real engine press. other than that it all guess work
  • i have a 00 sonoma 2.2 and when i start it the oil pressure shoots up almost to 80. theres 123k miles on it and when i come to a stop it comes down to about 40 but then goes back up when accelerating. i drove it today into town and for the first time it started shutting off a couple times at stop. the temp is normal. also when it shifts into 2nd when its cold it has a pretty noticeable kick.??? i checked the oil and its fine. also checked the tranny and is a little low.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    That sounds about right for a 4.3, the 4 cyl runs higher.
  • I have a 95 S10 2wd. It has a 2.2L 4 cylinder, 5 speed manual tranny. 141000 miles. This truck has been great to me, up until the last six months. Chasing several different problems (most of which are now solved) I had to replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires, a leaking fuel injector, the water pump, the alternator, the battery, and the catalytic converter. I currently have two problems with the truck. When driving, at idle I lose oil pressure. It isn't dropping completely, but low enough to set off a warning light (in the red part of the gauge). When on the freeway, or at a stop but revving, the oil pressure looks fine, but as soon as I push in the clutch the pressure drops. This problem only occurs when the engine warms up. I have added oil to it and it does have a small leak somewhere that I've not identified, but it has had this leak since I've owned it. It's a very slow leak. Additionally, only when the truck has sat for a few days, it misfires until it reaches operating temperature. It only misfires in gear under a load. If you push in the clutch or slip it into neutral and rev it, it does not misfire. Does anyone have any insight? I mostly concerned with the oil pressure, but any info on the misfire would be greatly appreciated.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 874
    For oil pressure try a new sender unit, if no help, may need an oil pump or engine overhaul.
    That engine works best with factory plugs, I know they are expensive.
  • I replaced the sending unit and my pressure is looking much better. Poor old girl has a quiet knock sometimes now. Looks like it's time to upgrade. Anyone want to buy a 95 S10 with 141K? Only $12,000.00 HAHA (kidding)
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