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Acura Integra Electrical Questions

I recently purchased a '98 Integra LS. When the headlights are off and I step on the brakes the clock and radio lights dim and the front running lights come on until i release the brakes. When the headlights are on, the cruise will not work and the brake lights stay on. Any ideas of what would cause this and how to resolve the problem?
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Comments

  • Hi,

    I have a 1992 Integra LS and it runs great but there is one problem that I can't seem to solve. I'll be driving and the wipers will come by themselves and then then stop after I shut the car off for a few minutes. It won't happen again for sometimes a couple of weeks and then start again. I have changed the wiper control inside the car but that has not solved the problem. Has anybody had the same problem? Any ideas what the problem might be or does anyone know where I could find a solution?

    Thanks Paul
  • nippononlynippononly SF Bay AreaPosts: 12,693
    such a common problem on older Hondas, I can't even tell you. I used to buy and sell them and I had a number with that problem. Actually my sister's CRX SI had the same problem, and I spent a Saturday morning trying to fix it for her, but didn't succeed. It is an electrical fault (likely a short somewhere), a common problem with Hondas as they age. Electrical faults are hard to track down, unless you can put a gauge on the car while the problem is actually occurring, which of course is very difficult because it is so intermittent.

    2013 Civic SI, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (stick)

  • tomy2tomy2 Posts: 7
    I had a similar problem on my 2001 town & country van. I'd be driving and the front wiper would come on and then shut off automatically. I replaced the wiper control switch and that didn't work. Problem was found to be the wiper relay located inside the engine comparement. Replaced it and haven't had a problem since.
  • 5dan5dan Posts: 1
    volt meter stuck & voltage went off the gauge. I hear clicking under the dash. No power to the wiper motor.
  • pontalapontala Posts: 1
    Acura integra 95, it was missing real bad I change the spark plugs (the old was in bad shape) it driven great for 2 blocks and just quit! I got juice coming in on the distributor and no juice going out to the plugs.
    I remove the distributor out and forget to mark its position and replace the coil now it has spark at the plug but I can get the car to run?? It acts like the wire is out of order and the plugs are wet! I my question is can I have a problem with the distributor and have spark at the plug?
    Can any one please help
  • I have a '89 Acura Integra. When I turn the car on and the head lights, my tail lights are working fine. However, as soon as I start driving my tail lights shut off. Any ideas what could cause this?
  • i own a 97 integra and had a similar problem. i didnt have the cruise problem with the headlights, but my brake lights were always when my car was on whether or not i was on the pedal, and when i did hit the brakes my interior clock and radio would also dim. it took me forever to figure out but the problem ended up being that whoever had the car before me replaced one of the brake light bulbs with a wrong type and it was causing some kind of wierd loop to occur in my electrical system. It was driving me nuts for months and ended up being a $3.00 fix so hope it also works for you. If you havent already checked all your fuses try that also.
  • I have a 2001 acura integra. I am having some electrical problems. The rear defrost is not working, the antenna is not working, the dome lights and lights by the rear view mirror aren't working and the light on the dash that shows when a door is open is on and none of the doors are open. Also, when I change the dome light to either the on or off position rather that the position where it comes on when the door is opened, the light showing a door open goes off. I have no idea what the problem could be and if anyone could help that would be great.
  • I have a 98 integra with Alpine alarm system. Over the years I have found that the keyless entry remote is becoming more and more unresponsive. I have to literally be couple of inches away from the door in order for the remote to unlock the car. I've tried changing batteries for the remote which made no difference and both of my remotes have the exact same problem. If the problem is not the battery then what could it be?
  • Hi, I just bought a 2001 integra with the exact same problems you describe, have you figured out the issue yet? thankyou
  • i have a 94 intergra ls and it has a few problems..... i can drive it for an hour stop and turn it off for ten minutes and when i want to start it again the motor doesn't even try to turn over at all .. the next morning the car start right up.... next problem when the car is running when i open the door the clock and instument light flash and a ringing/clicking noise starts... and my ebrake lights dont turn off...any solutions ]
  • i have a 94 integra ls and it has a few problems... i can drive it for an hour stop and turn it off for ten minutes and when i want to start it again the motor doesn't even try to turn over at all.. the next morning the car starts right up... next problem when i open the door the clock and instrument lights flash and a ringing/clicking noise starts... and my ebrake light doesn't turn off ... any solutions ]
  • gjk0726gjk0726 Posts: 3
    had a cooling fan problem,which is now fixed, in tracing fan problem was testing for juice at ac relay plug, now a/c doesnt come on, no ligt on when ac button is pushed
    also. so far replaced a/c diodes,fan timer module,and ecm.checked all fuses,in dash
    fusebox/and under hood fuse box. any ideas,this car is driving me crazy.
  • ohsaucyohsaucy Posts: 1
    Try the main relay under driver side dash. I had similar problems changed it and the problems went away.
  • i came home from work yesterday, and after switching the car off and taking the key out of the ignition i saw that the tail/brake lights were still on. anyone ever have this problem or know how to fix it? thanks...
  • angelosr1angelosr1 Posts: 1
    Radiator fan runs all the time until battery dies. Is there any sensor or relay that should be checked?
  • acurabotacurabot Posts: 2
    hey i have a 98 integra im having some electrical problems.. my dash lights dont work when i put new fuse in it blows it.. my antenna and interior lights dont work..and the light stays on to let u no a door is open but doors are closed if someone knows anything about this id like to no its a pain lol thanks
  • My fiance just bought a 2000 integra and her cooling fans stopped working should i replace the fans or is there something else i can do to get them running?
  • Here is a link to Honda/Acura overheating. There is a lot of info that may be useful. Check "radiator fan won't come on troubleshooting". There you will find some things you can do.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html#nofan
    Regards,
    Corkscrew
  • I do not know what happened. I was driving home from school today and i came up to a stop light. So i pushed in the clutch about 100ft from the intersection. The car died. All the lights in the dash came on. This has happened before and i thought it was the heat of the day. i live in the desert. the gauges are never up but i thought that maybe some little component was over heating and causing the problem. but it wasn't hot today. it would not start back up for about 10minutes. I had to push it. you cant bump start it and you cant turn it over. it just doesn't start. any help would be much appreciated. i do not know about cars or anything so try and explain as best as you can. thanks.
  • the engine oil light came on and is now on at all times of engine running. it now flashes on and off continuously at one second intervals whether wire to sensor is connected or not. the oil pressure tests at 78 pounds pressure ??????
  • jrk5jrk5 Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me which fuse controls the door chime in a '94 Acura Integra?
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    My '97 GS-R 5MT has intermittently had starter problems over the past 6 months -- 1 time out of 100, turn the key and nothing happens, not even a click. Idiot lights always normal. Sometimes, starter would kick in normally a split second later. Other times, it took turning key back off and trying again, then it would work. I already replaced the starter, and then the electrical part of the ignition switch, without affecting the problem. My 3rd try -- cross fingers, successful so far -- is the starter cut relay. This is one of three, up above and behind the under-dash fuse panel. By behind, I mean closer to the rear of the car. It has a pale green plastic connector. You'll have lots of fun at the parts counter, because the electronic Acura parts catalog doesn't tell the parts guy which of the 3 relays is the right one, and the shop manual cartoon diagram of the location of the relay is incorrect. (the manual makes it look like it is much closer to the firewall than actually). So you can't tell them the part number, because you haven't found the part yet. This was a real Catch-22 until a sympathetic and smart mechanic took a 30 second look at my car himself.
  • hey i'm having the exact same problem with my electrical system wondering of the update to your fix? and which relay it was that the mechanic told you?
    Last night I was driving fine and then i cut the car off and absolute no power to my starter when trying to start back up and everything else is fine no click or nothing. Then i just waited turning the car off and on but nothing finally after 5 minutes it was fine and started no problem. happened a couple times already and one time i couldnt get it to start for like 30 minutes so i had to push start it and working fine ever since..... just odd when it does happen.
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    Well unfortunately the "Starter Cut Relay" (that is its exact official name) was not my problem, because my symptom did recur another time or two. The one further insight I've had is that the cutout function really isn't necessary, and maybe the cutout switch on the clutch pedal arm itself was getting sticky or dirty, and not contacting well. I've owned 6 older stickshift cars which could be started in neutral without pushing down the clutch, so I've acquired the necessary habits to live safely without it. So I unplugged the wires from the clutch pedal switch and soldered them together. This was not fun for a middle-aged glasses-wearing person, but it is doable if you have a soldering iron and have had a little practice over the years. You can't just leave the wires unplugged -- then the starter will never work at all. And be careful you don't mix them up with the separate clutch pedal switch for the cruise control cutout, which is much more of a safety item in my book. The one you want to disable the starter cutout is up higher and harder to reach than the cruise cutout wires. If you have shop manual, you'll see correct wire color code mentioned -- a blue/black, and a black. (page 23-74 in 1996-97 manual). I've only driven the car a dozen times or so since the modification but so far so good.
  • I actually already bypassed the clutch pedal switch maybe 2 years ago. Took much of the car apart trying to diagnose this problem today. Do you hear the relay under the dash go off when your problem occurs? I don't recall it going off but I know the fuel pump is running and its so loud that I cant distinguish the noises in the environment I am in when my problem occurs. Today it became more pervasive. It wouldn't occur in my garage when I started the vehicle 20 times. However I took it for a test drive to the gas station and boom it happened again. I had a ball peen hammer this time around and tapped on the starter 3 times and the car kicked right on, so concluding its the starter for now... even though the starter doesn't click when vehicle doesn't start. Maybe a dead spot or something?
  • whobodymwhobodym Posts: 151
    The starter cut relay under the dash has never made enough noise for me to hear it, with or without the problem I had (but I never tried starting the car with my head up under the dash -- I'm not small and not a contortionist). Are you saying your fuel pump is loud? That doesn't sound normal at all to me. If bumping the starter makes it work, that certainly implicates the starter, in my opinion. The "click" noise pattern you are expecting is something that happens when the starter solenoid does move the starter gears into engagement, but the starter or the battery doesn't have enough oomph to turn over the engine. If you have a bad solenoid and it didn't move the gear shaft, you wouldn't hear much of anything. From what you've said, I think it's definitely possible you do have a bad starter -- the solenoid part of it. Getting a new starter swapped in gets you both a new solenoid and a new electric starter motor. They're all together in the one part. Quite easy to change, just got to spend the money. Good luck!
  • Hey, I have a 1990 Integra and am having some problems. Last night my friend and I replaced the thermostat thinking it would solve the problem and it really didn't. My heat/ac just dont blow out and I have no idea what it could be/how to fix that. Anyone have any suggestions on what is wrong/how I could fix that because it's really freakin cold and I'd like to fix this annoying problem.

    Thank You
  • I have a 2000 GS-R with over 200,000 miles. Yesterday it would not start. It does sound as it 'wants to', but will not turn over. The battery is fine and it has over a half tank of fuel. HELP!
  • my 92 gs was having the same problem earlier on in the summer. it sounds like it could be a few things (bad starter?) but my problem ended up being a bad ignition coil. the shop (that i trust) said that they suspected it to be the coil, but that they weren't sure because it tested OK at ambient temperature but would still stop working after it heated up. i bought a new one for $18 on ebay and put it in; it's been running fine ever since. oh, my gs also has 240K miles on it!

    i know there are people on here that know tons more than i do, but i hope that helped.
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