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Taurus/Sable Electrical Problems

I have a 2003 Mercury Sable (3.8 liter 24 value engine)after the car is driven for 15-20 minutes the battery light flashes on and off. The dealer has put in 2 new alternators and the battery light still flashes. The light will not stay on constantly. The dealer checked the battery and it is fully charged. It will not go on when the car is in park. There are no codes in the computer. The dealer says the light needs to stay on constantly in the shop. Then they can diagnose the problem. Can anybody help
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Comments

  • verioverio Posts: 3
    I replaced the fuse yesterday that was blown. Today it seems that the cluster once again is out. I'm not sure if the fuse has been blown again or what. I was curious if anyone knows if there is another problem I need to look at. Thanks.
  • cshopcshop Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Taurus with a "u" engine (not flex fuel). The fuel Gauge is stuck on full. Any ideas of the cause and solution for this problem?
  • verioverio Posts: 3
    I replaced the fuse when I got home this evening... I started the car back up to check that it worked, everything came on and then all of a sudden the fuse blew again. I'm out 3 fuses now, and wondering what my next step will be.
  • bigdan1bigdan1 Posts: 23
    Hi,
    My 2002 Ford Taurus has the door ajar light on constantly when engine is running. Also, the center light on iside of roof is constantly on.
    I tried obvious things like slamming all 4 doors, and trunk, and hood, but no luck.I also turned the rotating switch to adjust intensity of dashboard lights and to manually turn on light in roof, but it is OK as well.
    As a temporary fix, I removed the center light bulb in the roof, so I don't think I am draining battery.
    This all started for first time today. Have been playing with it all day. No luck.
    Everything else seems to be OK.
    Any and all ideas for a solution are appreciated.
    Thanks.
    Dan
  • Have you ever found out what happened? My daughter now has the same problem with her 1997 Taurus. Any help would be appreciated!!
  • My 98 Taurus was doing this also and I was told to spray wd-40 on the door switches and let them soak for a few mins. I didn't need to because mine was fine when I put the fuse back in. Can't hurt to try. Let me know if it works so I can try it if mine does it again.
  • bigdan1bigdan1 Posts: 23
    Sorry, but I was in a car accident with my other Taurus on 12MAR07, so I don't want to play with the 2000 Taurus until I get my 2002 Taurus back from the shop. Also, I have been out of town all week on Company business. I will respond as soon as I get a chance to try something, hopefully early next week. My teenage son did admit that during bitterly cold days last winter he did have to slam the door several times to make it close, due to ice build up on the lock. I have a hunch the switch mechanism in the door is bent on my car. Like I said, I'll try to fix soon and report back to all. Thanks for the help.
  • WD-40 Worked!!!!! Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I've got other posts on here about what happened after I put my battery in backwards. This post is more towards repairing the damage that was done. It appears to be the alternator. The battery light is on the dash, no others until today, but that is explained below. Any advice is appreciated.

    Stopped a local shop, didn't have a lot of confidence in them, but they offered to check the alt for free. Hooked up a device that measured the voltage, but it had a scale, not digital. He said it showed 11 volts, I notice it was in the "weak" section. Has me turn on the lights and stuff and nothing happened to the dial. He said that was because the alt was bad. I asked about the megafuse (between batt and alt. cables)and he said that if it was blown, nothing would work. Does that sound right?

    He said I need a new alternator. He uses the brand A-1. Said it is 299 for the part because of the 24 valve, and it is hooked to the serpentine. I did notice on NAPA.com that the serpentine alternator was much more $$. He figured 4 hours labor, depending on how hard it is to get everything off to get to it. Almost 500 total!!

    I left to think about it. Well, tried to leave, car wouldn't start. They got a device and basically jumped it, he said it was a boost and should get me home. Less than 4 miles later and I literally limped home the last mile. Seemed like the fuel pump was stopping, more idiot lights came on, the ABS and air bag came on first, by the time I got home the brake one was on and the radio seemed to turn on with static. I hope I didn't screw up some more......

    Nothing was said about the computer except that the car wouldn't go if I blew that.

    Can anybody shed some light on this? Is there anything else between the alt and the batt that could cause a problem, or is just a fried alternator and I am stuck with 500 repair bill? How to tell if I did in the computer??? Can they check the alt while on the vehicle by attaching volt readers to the alt?? I am so worried now that it is the computer.
  • jasmith52jasmith52 Posts: 455
    whitall:

    Here's what happened. Your alternator is broken, that's the thing that keeps your battery charged. So you have been running off of the battery. The battery wasn't fully charged and you tried to limp home. Weird things happen as the battery depletes and the voltage drops. The car should be just fine once you get the battery charged up and a new alternator put in.

    If you want to drive the car for short distances go buy a battery charger at K-mart and charge up the battery. Keep in mind though that you just may get stranded if you drive too far or go too long between charges. If you get stranded you'll have to call a tow truck or pull out the battery and take it somewhere and charge it up and then put it back in.

    Isn't this getting old yet ? Just maybe it's time to pay the price and pay someone to fix your car.
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    Good thing I didn't pay the price, they might not have found the problem. It was the mega-fuse. A five dollar part. After lots of reading on this board and others I was given the suggestion to locate and test that fuse. It is between the battery cable and the alternator cable, where they meet at the engine compartment fuse box. Most people have never heard of it. One shop I was at didn't know what it did when I mentioned it. My friend and his volt/fuse tester checked it and it was bad. It saved my alternator and I saved several hundred bucks because I have the darn 24 valve dohc engine which is not easy labor to replace.

    Thanks everyone who helped, and there were a few, each with a slightly different tip. I hope this info helps someone else.
  • umwijayaumwijaya Posts: 4
    Hi There,

    Thanks for the information that you had posted it. I just have a similiar problem with you. My MPV MAzda 2001 was suddenly slowdown on the HWY and then could not be started it. Then, i towed to the nearest garage. The mechanic told me, The alternator need to be replaced $ 550,00 brand new one + 2.6 hrs labor fee. I went to get a refurbished one cost me $ 220, then i gave it to the mechanic to replace it. The MPV is running now, but the Battery light is still on. The mechanic told me, some thing wrong with the alternator, but the alternator is charging. He suggested me to uninstall the alternator and bring it back to the shop where i got my alternator. Anyway, i spent almost $ 500, now they ask me another $ 200 to reinstall new alternator.. :mad: Could you tell me, which mega fuse (What is the code name)that located on engine compatrment fuse box that you had replaced and only cost you $ 5. I opened my compartment fuse box.. and i could not find any fuse that had a name like batterry... PLeaseeee... again
    thank you.

    TJ Wija
  • whitallwhitall Posts: 187
    I'm sure your mazda is quite different from my Ford. My Ford has a fuse box under the hood. It is a rectangle plastic box and has all those tiny fuses in it. On the side, handing vertically, is sort of a trap door, where the "door" slides up to reveal a big fuse that does not look like the other colored little fuses. You can see where a fat cable from the alternator enters/connects to the fuse box and right next to it the battery cable connects. Between these two fat cables sit the mega fuse, it is about 3 inches long.

    I thought mine oculd be a fuse because it received a large jolt of power that blew it when I put the battery in backwards. I have also heard that there is some sort of electrical part that is attached right to the alternator that can go bad. I think it might be replaced with the alternator though.

    You need to have the voltage checked on the battery to see if it is charging. It should be over 12 volts with the car running.If it picks up a charge to 13-14 while it is running, then your fuse isn't blown and neither is your alternator. This is what I have learned!

    Also, check your owner's manual for the schematic that diagrams all the fuses. Good luck!
  • umwijayaumwijaya Posts: 4
    Thank you very much for the information. The mechanic had check it out all the fuse, and told me that there is something wrong with the computer system and asked me to bring it to the dealer. "What !!!!!! After i spent almost $ 550:mad: BY the way, Mazda MPV 2001 is using FORD engine. SO, I assume it should be almost teh same situation... again, Thank you
  • I have a 2002 Taurus & have had the same problem on & off. I asked my dealer & he told me that sometimes the door sensors stick & this problem drives the dealerships crazy! He really didn't have a fix for it either...Mine just works it way back to normal usually the same day or by the car being turned off overnight...sorry I couldn't be of more help or info!! :confuse:
  • rmh15rmh15 Posts: 1
    I own an 02 ford taurus and having this recent issue, idles like it wants to stall when stopped and when I go to accelerate it shimmies and acts like it wants to stall, yesterday it did it worse when the a/c was on ...but today it does it no matter what.. and suggestions as to what it is?
  • confoundedconfounded Posts: 1
    My 95 Sable wagon (low mileage) blew a fuse (#8 circuit) that controls things like interior lights/radio/clock etc. Replaced the fuse and it blew too. Measured 12 volts across the fuse, so the downleg side is grounded somewhere. Verified with meter. At the same time, the power door lock switch stopped working. "Lock" position does nothing, "Unlock" position turns on the parking and instrument lights!!! Lock switch is on circuit #14. Parking lights are on circuit #4. All other components of these two circuit are working OK. Checked floor wiring beneath carpet on driver's and passenger side for corrosion or anything obviously amiss. Found nothing - everything looks good as new. Disconnected whatever connectors I could find with no effect, so the problem is localized to the front of the vehicle. Removed instrument panel to see if I could get at the maze of wires beneath the dashboard but couldn't. Removed door panels and checked all wiring. Found nothing amiss.

    Working hypothesis: wire in #8 circuit has broken and fused to ground, probably inside the boot connecting to the door (driver's side or maybe passenger side). Two other wires belonging to #14 and #4 have developed a high resistance short to one another, probably due to heat from #8 short or due to whatever caused #8 to short. So "Unlock" puts voltage on parking light circuit, and short prevents "Lock" from developing enough voltage to activate the mechanisms.

    Questions: Does this sound plausible and if so, how do I find the shorted wires? Its impossible to get into the boot or anywhere near the cables leading to the boot and even if I cut the wires (LtG/Y) that run through the boot on both ends, how do I replace them?

    If this isn't plausible, any other ideas are welcomed. Oh yes, why do the color codes on the wires not always correspond to the colors on the schematics, or better yet,where can I find a scematic specific to this vehicle?

    Thanks for any help.
  • mws9646mws9646 Posts: 1
    1997 Ford Taurus, I did a head gasket job on the car and now ther is no spark or injector pulse. Everything is plug in, check that 100 times, and we even swapped some parts, crank sensor, cam sensor, pcm, control mod., I just don't know what is wrong. A number of us are STUMPED! Did I mention the parts work in the other idenical car. HEEEEELLLLP!
  • steveon3steveon3 Posts: 1
    check the motor has all grounding straps connected to it. had same problem with a 94 mustang with a 3.8.
  • My car is driving me insane. I have had the ignition switch replaced, the camshaft sensor replaced, the computer replaced twice, all the wires taken off and cleaned, the battery tested normal, and so did the alternator. All in the last four months. Car still doesn't run right. It will stall in any condition or situation. When it stalls everything goes out like you take the battery cable off the car. Most of the time will crank right back up and drive fine for a little while. Then starts acting up again. Mechanic gave up. Please if anyone has had similar problems or knows whats wrong I would love to hear from you. Ready to give up on it. :mad:
  • I have a 2001 ford taurus that is draining the battery which I have isolated to fuse #16. I am trying to find the integrated control panel, which I believe is the culprit. Also the same fuse controls the rcc memory cluster and GEM power module. Any help would be appreciated.
  • aninajessaninajess Posts: 1
    I also have a 2002 taurus, every once in a while about every 2 months ill be driving along and the car will die for about 3 seconds and start on its own again, or the car lights will dim and then come back, the theft light usually shows the most on the dash but other lights on the dash show too.... what is wrong ? does anyone know ?
  • gevisualgevisual Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Taurus SE and the following problem just started yesterday. When I press the "AUTO" button on the climate control system to start the A/C, the light on the panel illuminates, but nothing else happens (blower usually starts blowing cold air after 4-5 seconds). Same result if I hit the "MAX A/C" button. Here's where it gets interesting. I then hit the off button, drove for about 5 miles, tried the "AUTO" button again, and it worked. Drove the car home without any problems. When I got in this morning, same problem - A/C wouldn't start back up. This time, I didn't switch it back to "OFF", and after 10 minutes or so on the road everything seemed to switch on. When it does come on, everything works as normal (blower will variate with the temp set, etc.). Doesn't seem to be a fuse - I'm not sure where to look at this point. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • danni3danni3 Posts: 1
    I just changed my starter tonight and my car still won't start and now my power windows don't work. Could this be a fuse problem also?? also my cd player works but not the radio? I am confused.
  • Check the fuel pump. I had an 86 Taurus that would start bucking and then quit. The engine cooled, and it would go. There were 2 separate problems: The spark plug wires were shot and the fuel pump also had some problem.
    Hope this helps
  • Having a problem with the remote keyless entry. Neither remote works and have checked batteries. Remotes do not unlock doors or open trunk. Any idea? Thanks.
  • I've got a similiar problem that started yesterday with my girlfriend's '99 Taurus. She has no lights on the A/C panel whatsoever. I got under the hood and checked every fuse I could find but none were blown. I did notice that the compressor was not turning but I assume that is because it is not switched on. I'm not much of a mechanic but I do know electrical a bit. She didn't have any owner's manual to point me to a schematic and I didn't find any when I tried to Google one. So, out of desparation I'm looking for help here. I'm hoping that GEVISUAL will reply to what he found and maybe it will give me some insight as to what I might look for. This looks like a great forum and web site. I've never been here before but Google gave me a link. Best to you all! Paul in Tampa, FL
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