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Mazda 3 Tire & Wheel Questions

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  • I have an 06 S Hatchback with 205/50/17V with 16000 miles that I bought new with Goodyear RSA's on it, and I am going to upgrade to 215/50/17V BF Goodrich Traction TA with a 60000 mile warranty.
    I had them on my last car, an 02 Lancer OZ Rally, and went up one size with them too.
    Many people on Tirerack have done this upgrade and it seems the size of the original tires is very hard to find and V rating makes them expensive with little tread life.
    I would go up one size in width rather than buy expensive tires twice. The best you can expect on the current tires is 30K, my tires are starting to look bad now, so I expect at around 20-25K I will switch them.
    I would not go down on the speed rating because of the suspension, lowering the speed rating on the tires would defeat the purpose of the vehicle. V rated tires are stiffer and more responsive.
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    Grace10 said: I am not really looking for speed I am more looking for how long they last and price.

    Your reply: I would not go down on the speed rating because of the suspension, lowering the speed rating on the tires would defeat the purpose of the vehicle. V rated tires are stiffer and more responsive.

    Could you explain what you mean by saying "I would not go down on the speed rating because of the suspension"?
  • Same prob with my 2007 Mazda3 bought new from factory with Toyo Tires. Not convinced that it is the actual brand of tires causing the inside wear at 15k after reading the eight or so blogs/complaints about Maza 3s rear tire negative camber problems.
    I took my car to Tires Plus in Port St. Lucie Fl and they called me into the garage to explain that the alignment computer is showing "factory specs" on all four wheels. They said there must be a factory defect in the car and to take it to the dealer and demand correction and a new set of tires or threaten Lemon Law !. I took it to the Mazda dealer in Stuart Fl and they said the car was fine and that I just had not rotated the tires each oil change. I went home not convinced and started searching on line finding all the forum write ups on the problem being extreme negative camber on the rear of most Mazda 3s. One forum explained how you could personally try to make your own corrections to the rear camber by turning the two hatchmarked adjustment bolts in or out on both rear wheels. This made sense seeing my problem started exactly at the same mileage a lot of the other forum writers stated. 17k on factory tires. I rotated my tires once since new at 14k moving the rear tires with the worn inner ridge to the front of my car. That is when I started noticing unusual tire/road noise. It threw me off because most tire wear is usually caused from front end misalignment. My front tires were fine and then they started wearing right away when I moved them to the rear. I noticed the wear was a little more extreme on one side than the other so I adjusted the rear camber on that side one and a half hatch marks and the other side only one hatch mark correction using two large 17mm box end wrenches with the car jacked up and with safety jack stands in place. You can actually see the correction to the negative camber when you turn the camber bolt in or out after loostening the threaded lock nut on the outside. You can notice the tops and bottoms of the tires moving in or out a little with each turn. Negative camber is when your wheels are tilting in at the top and out at the bottom. As you add weight to the car such as heavy passengers you will get even more negative camber on the rear wheels. The front wheels do not need camber adjustment and don't have an adjustment as far as I could see. After making the minor adjustments to my car I took my best tires and moved them up to the front hoping that I could get a little more out of them. I figure 30 to 40K would be fair. We'll see. I still have the road noise because of the previous wear damage. I haven't noticed any oversteer as a result of the minor adjustment which I considered an easy fix/job as car repairs go. Now I'm driving around behind every Mazda 3 I can catch up to in traffic and in parking lots observing the rear camber. It is amazing. Some are very easy to detect visually that the rear tires are tilting in at the top as compared to other cars . I stood behind a Mazda 3 five door the other day and couldn't believe how obvious the negative camber looked. Why the dealers are so misinformed or underhanded I don't know. It sure isn't ethical. Withl the problems they fix and diagnose, I wonder if the service managers ever read the forums to find out stuff that is affecting their customer's confidence. It probably has to do with them having to own up to a new set of tires for every complaint. That could be a lot more expensive than a routine alignment. On the other hand their reputation is at stake trying to hide stuff. Who would want a car that wears out a good set of very expensive tires every 15000 miles?
  • I am having the same problem with my 06 tires. I have 24k on the car and have only had the car taken to the dealership for maintenance and they rotated the tires every time and they told me 5k ago that they were wearing down and now they say I need new tires. Is there anything I can do about this? They are toyo tires and I know that they should last at least 40k and if there is nothing that we can do and it's just a defect then can we get mazda to do something about it because it's ridiculous to shell out 500+ for tires and an alignment (by the way my alignment is definately off). I just don't feel for my 10 mile drive a day (to work and back) that I should have to pay for new tires 2 1/2 years in.
  • I know I'm responding to my own post but I wanted to let you all know that if you are having the same problems as I am you can contact the NHTSA and file a complaint online at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/complaints/results.cfm.

    There have been 3 such complaints made so far and only one of them really had to do with the tires wearing down. Others say the Toyo tires are not made for the snow.
  • I called my dealership after work and told them about my tires and they said that they have found that more and more Mazda 3's wear on the tires faster and that no matter what tire you use they will probably wear out in 30k. It seems like Mazda should have a recall on this and fix this problem. It would cost 2k+ for new tires by 100k.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    Mazda 3's wear on the tires faster and that no matter what tire you use they will probably wear out in 30k.

    That's just not true. I have seen the stock Goodyear Eagle RS-A's last past 40K on many Mazda3's that come into my store.

    There are plenty of variables that attribute to tires wearing out. First, lack of proper rotation or proper inflation pressure. Second, aggressive driving. The Mazda3 is a compact the promotes sportiness. Many owners, unfortunately, assume their Mazda3 is an autocross car.

    It seems like Mazda should have a recall on this and fix this problem.

    There is nothing wrong with the Mazda3. The car does not magically make tires wear out faster. If there is something not right with your Mazda, out of alignment comes to mind, then your tires would wear unevenly. You would see uneven wear on the inner half or outer half. If the tires are wearing evenly, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the car.

    Every vehicle on the road does go out of alignment from time to time. That's the nature of automobiles.
  • 80,000 mi tire. Very high wear rating--it's a hard tire but has very aggressive tread pattern for water evacuation. Pretty good in the snow too. Costco has pretty good prices.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,031
    I got 26000 miles out of the Bridgestone RE050As on my Mazdaspeed 3. They probably would have lasted past 30K had I not tracked the car and driven it in a "spirited" fashion on the street... :P

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • Hi there -

    I have about 34,000 miles on my original Goodyear Eagle RS-A tires. They are slick as a bottle of tire shine on ice. I am looking for a decent all season tire that is good both in wet conditions, snow, and holds up to the "estimated" mileage warranty. I don't want to pay more than $125 a tire though. As I navigate Tirerack.com I see the best sellers under my car tire category.

    1- Kumho Ecsta ASX ($90/each) 205/50R17
    2- Dunlop SP Sport Signature ($105/each) 205/50R17
    3- Bridgestone Potenza G 019 Grid ($115/each) 205/50R17

    I do like to drive fast at times and enjoy corners so you could say I have the zoom zoom type mentality.

    What would you suggest out of these three tires? Also, is there a better, read cheaper website to order from?

    Thanks!

    Zac
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,031
    I've run Kumhos on several of my cars and I currently have a set on my Three Series. Tire Rack provides such good service and value that I haven't felt the need to look elasewhere.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • I replaced the tires on my '91 Integra with the Bridgestone Potenza G 019 last fall. They were quiet and had great traction, but felt very soft when cornering. The car used to be very tight with the old Michelin Pilots, but the Bridgestones felt like they belonged on a Buick. I replaced the Integra with my 2008.5 Mazda3 Touring hatch in May, and I love how tight it feels when cornering. I'll spend a little extra money on my 3 when it's time to get new tires, and probably stick with Michelin.

    You might try www.discounttiredirect.com for another option to the Tirerack. Good Luck.
  • I guess what I am now faced with is accountability, meaning if my tire pops or something happens to it who do I go to to replace it. Tirerack? I assume that the garage that puts the tires on for you isn't responsible for the tire after that. I guess I am skeptical of buying tires online vs. at a local shop, but obviously am trying to save some dough.

    What do you know about staying with the same speed rating? My car came with a V, do I need to stay with a V or can I go one lower or one higher - H or W. The Kumbos is a W.

    I got a quote today from a garage for 4 Pirelli P6 all season tires with install and disposal for $530 w/tax. I think the Pirelli's he quoted were H though.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    I've purchased many sets of tires and wheels from TireRack over the years and have always had good experiences with them. You can pre-arrange an appt. with a recommended installer in your area and have them shipped directly to them. This almost always saves money compared to buying locally, especially if you are also looking to buy them already mounted and balanced on separate wheels.

    The Pirelli P6 has been around is an old design that was very popular in its day, but you should check other available options with newer technology that will fit your car. Look at the reviews on TireRack to make your choice, weighing the factors that are most important to you (wear ratings, handling, traction, noise level, price, etc.) I wouldn't get too hung up on speed ratings but for an all season tire on this car I personally wouldn't buy anything rated less than H. Remember that all tires involve compromises of one sort or another.
  • roadburnerroadburner Posts: 6,031
    I'd stick with a V rated or higher tire- except in the case of winter tires.

    2009 328i / 2004 X3 2.5/ 1995 318ti Club Sport/ 1975 2002A/ 2007 Mazdaspeed 3/ 1999 Wrangler/ 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica

  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    I probably would too, mainly because they would offer slightly better handling, on average. But H tires are rated at 130 mph so they would be perfectly safe and may be cheaper with longer tread life (although every tire is different and there are many exceptions).
  • 6020160201 Posts: 6
    I do think the goodyear RS-A are cheap tires or wear out prematurely with Mazda3s - this is not a good combination. I also find the tracksion control kicking in on wet pavement starts. Terrible in snow even when they were new. I don't have a problem with the car otherwise.

    I've had all my service done at Evanston Mazda including oil changes and tire rotations. But at 25K miles and 24 months later I need new tires. I don't race, my alignment is fine, I have checked my tire pressure in between oil changes and still only 25K?? doesn't seem right.

    My service tech also gave me some line about they worn out due to my high mileage, but I don't think 1K/month is high mileage. But then admitted many people are unhappy with their RSAs. They are more than eager to sell me relacement RS-A for $1,000 or Michelins etc for the same price.

    I'll probably get michelins, but not really keen on going back to Mazda.
  • Ohio Mazda Dealer here. Many of our Mazda's new come with performance oriented tires, best example the RX's and Speed cars with the Bridgestone Potenza re050's which average 13k miles till shot. Same deal with the RS-A's, performance tire sacrificing wear and winter traction. For winter I would deifinitely go Tire-Rack for a 15 or 16" tire, not even necessarily narrower because the RS-A's are only 205's. OR, I'd find an owner of the 3 Sedan I Touring package with the 16" factory wheel and offer a swap, just realizing that handling will be sacrificed for ride and winter driving, but those also wear much better.
  • orca3orca3 Posts: 11
    I replaced the Goodyear RSA's on my sons Mazda3 touring at 3000 miles
    because I didn't feel they were safe enough(hydroplaning). Bought the Kumho
    Asx's and they have been great - Have not had great luck with Dunlop's in the
    past so I couldn't recommend. Bought the Kumho's on Tirerack.com and
    couldn't be more pleased with their service,speed of del. and price - alot less
    expensive than any dealer in my area!
  • autonomousautonomous Posts: 1,769
    My service tech also gave me some line about they worn out due to my high mileage, but I don't think 1K/month is high mileage. But then admitted many people are unhappy with their RSAs. They are more than eager to sell me relacement RS-A for $1,000 or Michelins etc for the same price.

    I'll probably get michelins, but not really keen on going back to Mazda.


    I agree a thousand miles per month is not high mileage. I disagree that your tires are anything but cheap. Tthey are fast-wearing performance tires. If you don't need performance tires (and many commuters don't) then why not opt for regular cruising / touring tires? They are not difficult to find. Finally, buying tires from a dealership will limit your choices; consider a tire specialist and ask for their advice or check out the choices online at TireRack and other providers.
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