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VW Golf Engine Problems

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  • i have an 86 golf wolfsburgh edition, when i first start the car and drive it, it runs great, but when it starts to warm up it starts to cut back on me and tries to shut down, i think it might be the fuel pump but not sure, when i drive the car i can still hear the fuel pump running, it sounds like a buzzing noise is that normal? and if not could that be the prob with the car and also it losses power and cuts back when i floor it, it kinda sputters during both events if anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated thanks.

    Lil Sam
  • I had this same problem. (including the rain part.) They tried replacing the spark plugs, the mass air flow sensor, the oxygen sensor. I eventually had to replace the ignition coil pack. Take it to the dealer, nobody else will know what's going on.

    last summer my air conditioning died and since then I have spent between $5-6000 on this dagnabbit car.
  • I also have an 01 golf. The check engine light went on about a month after I bought it, and would go on again about once a week. Once I drove it for two months with the light on. If it's under warranty, make sure they replace every single thing that has ever been recalled for this car. This is an awful car, it will give you no end of headaches. There will always suddenly pop up some reason why you have to take it in to be looked at. A lot of the time the mechanics won't really know what's wrong so you will have to bring it back a day or two later when the problem returns. Sorry to be the voice of doom. Good luck.
  • i just bought a 96 golf and i am having a few problems with it. its got a tick it seems when it gets into third gear and shakes in the gas pedal and front end when it gets to certain point in 5th gear. it kind of shakes the car and is extremely loud. also the "safe" system is engaged on my stereo system, does anyone know how to fix that? let me know, love vw's just not too happy with my buy right now.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited February 2011
    You are describing a counple different issues here.

    The "tick tick tick" accompanied by a 'shake' sure sounds like a CV joint (Constant Velocity). Usually, a bad CV joint will sound worse when you turn one direction or another. If it is a bad CV joint, it must be replaced before your driveshaft snaps off....accompinied by severe damage and likely crashing and bodily-injury.

    To be 'fair' to your new VW purchase, a CV joint typically lasts about 90K miles on the MK3 VWs. I suspect you have more miles than that on your 1996. In other words, it has served its useful life.

    The "SAFE" on the stereo simply means that the power was lost at some point and the stereo thinks it has been stolen. Disconecting the battery is the most common way to cause "SAFE" to happen on the stereo.

    To fix "SAFE", look in the owners-manual to find out the 'secret code' you need to tap into the stereo to get it out of "SAFE" mode.

    If you dont have owners manual, unfortunately your ONLY recourse is a VW dealer who can get it out of SAFE mode. Make certain that they tell you the secret code so you have it for future use.
  • Gotcha. The radio issue is working it's self out and as for it being the cv joint that sounds very plausible cause it's at 129k miles. But it doesn't shake when I turn. It's just really loud in the car and sounds like it's got a putt or a stutter just really loud. Getting it checked out Friday hopefully but would like to know what I may be up against before I take it to the shop.
  • I have VW 2000 108,000 miles. Everything was good, the car was running great. Yesterday I have noticed that the engine got noisy, and the car struggles, it runs, but ti feels like struggles.

    I took it for an oil change and I thought that was the problem, but it was not. After I get it back this afternoon, the noise continues...Please help me with any advise.
  • Hello, have odd question. As you can this little car has many miles,still kicks 25 mpg. Just replaced power assist on brakes, now car will die when brake pedel is pressed. any ideas ?
    I am seaching for the vacum check valve, no parts house has a listing. Also, can you please tell me where the pcv filter is, checked the cam cover out is it mounted in the cover? Seems to be a filter of some kind in the top at the pcv port. Thank you in advance for all your help.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Obviously, the new brake-booster is causing the stalling. Most likely because vacuum was not plumbed-in properly. (A vacuum-leak can easily stall an idling engine)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited February 2011
    You did not say which engine you have but I am not sure VW uses a "PCV Valve" design like some other vehicles. All VW engines I have seen use a 'vapor seperator'.

    Lets not forget WHY some engines use a "PVC valve"...it is to prevent explosion by snapping shut if the engine backfires into the intake-manifold. This prevents flame-front from passing into the engine-crankcase.
  • 1.8 ohc. Stalling was starting prior too the replacement. I have located the vacuum check valve still looking for new part. Vapor separator system, sounds like I have the right part. May need new cam cover so as to increase the quantity of vacuum from the engine.
  • your stereo has to have to 4 digit code entered. should be written in your owners manual somewhere. i had the same problem but didn't have the code. if that is your case then just buy a new stereo. i did at best buy for $70. the only other way to get the code is if u get the stereo serial # and pay them $95. to enter the code hold down the far right/bottom button and one of the far right scrolls for 3 sec. u only have 2 chances to enter the right code or byby radio. just get a new one. the security light inst for your cars alarm sys just for the radio...ie the problem ur having. happens any time the battery is disconnected or the radio looses power. good luck.
  • chrisj100chrisj100 Posts: 1
    edited January 2012
    Hi All,

    I'm new to this forum...

    Just bought a 57 plate VW Golf 1.9 Tdi Match with 44k on the clock. I've noticed that when I switch the engine off there is sometimes a 'groaning' noise that lasts up to 10 seconds. It starts off quite loud and gradually gets quieter (and lower pitched) - sounds like something slowing down - a belt or fan perhaps. The car came with a 30 day warranty so I took it back to the dealer who says it's nothing serious, just one of the engine modules making a noise - they seem reluctant to do anything about it. Not sure if they're pulling the wool over my eyes with the 'module' explanation or it's something more serious.

    Any ideas?

    Ps. I also noticed that the air intake cover wasn't attached - not sure if this might be related.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Just for future reference, it is customary to use a supplemental power-supply to temporarily supply voltage to the system whilst the battery is being R&R.

    A typical way to provide external voltage is to use a standard 9Volt battery connected thru the power-outlet inside the vehicle. Using this technique, the radio will NOT go into 'SAFE' mode and the onboard computer will not lose its programming.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited January 2012
    Are you letting the engine/turbocharger to idle for awhile before shutting down?
    Are you certain you are not hearing the turbocharger 'spin down'?

    Of course, if you are hearing the turbocharger 'spin down'... then you may not be allowing your TDI to idle for several seconds before shutting-down the engine. This is a sure way to destroy the turbocharger-bearings.

    As soon as you shut-down the engine, the oil-supply to the turbocharger ceases.... you never EVER want the turbocharger to spin without oil-supply. (turbocharger is a $1,000 part!)
  • nor5nor5 Posts: 1
    My Golf will not rev over 5000 rpm, I have replaced coil plugs distributor.
    Does anyone have an idea.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited March 2012
    Your description sounds as if the engine computer has fallen into "limp mode" to protect the engine.

    Is the CEL illuminated? (Check Engine Light)

    If yes - you need to have your engine-computer 'scanned' so you know what codes are within it. These codes will help tell you what the problem is.

    Also, a VW engine will NEVER rev very high whilst the brake is depressed. (or the brake-pedal switch is malfunctioning and it THINKS the brake is depressed.) I mention this because VW has had several recalls regarding the brake-pedal switch.
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