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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • garett1garett1 Posts: 2
    99 E-150 4.2L V-6. Over 400,000 miles on original motor (American Quality). My problem is the a trouble code that is causing me to fail emission testing. Failed speed sensor code, check engine and abs dash lights are both on. I replaced the sensor and still nothing. Also the speedometer is still not working. I have to correct the code, and suggestions?
    Proud Ford owner
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Since you have an E-150, you may want to stop in the Full Sized Vans discussion. F-Series owners probably won't be able to help you much beyond the engine.

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  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    I'm glad you wrote so much. We have a 05, F-150 and are dealing with almost the same thing. Our vibrations are at 65 up to 72mph. The have aligned the truck, replaced the calipers, taken the rotors down a little, indexed the tires/wheels, and now want to do that again, but oh, somewhere in the middle of that, I needed two new tires..and then two more new tires.. $600 dollars later and guess what..It was never the tires. We didn't have this problem until Ford got a hold of the truck to do an alignment..we just had a pull to the right and too much travel in the brakes.. Now, we are about $1,000 out, 8 trips to the Ford Dealer and several rentals later. We go again tomorrow because they didn't want to pay for the rotors to be turned again.. gee... the idiot couldn't even look up on his computer that they had already done that two weeks earlier... and also indexed the tires/wheels then too. We are in Crystal River, Florida.. so I guess when Mr. Ford decides how he wants to save his company.. he should start asking us.. Thanks again for the info.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Don't know about the average, but our 1994, 4x4 was always taken care of with regular maintenance and we still have it. We have 268,000 + miles on it. Doesn't burn oil, no leaks and the engine purrs like a kitten. Body is in good shape too. We have a 2005 that is giving us the vibration trouble..they are trying to say it's everything that they have already done and doing again.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Pretty sure you are going to have to get into the gear box to fix that. Good luck.
  • emtdawnemtdawn Posts: 26
    Could be you are pumping up dirt or water that is in the fuel tank. drop the tank and flush it and start there. Once you do that, then replace the inline fuel filter too. This could very well be a water problem if not dirt.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Mirrors my experience on my '93 5.0 XLT, which was built back when job quality really was #1. Regularly serviced, over 175k+, only parts replaced were normal wear items like wipers, belt, brakes, tires etc. Held off from purchasing the first model year of the 'new' F150 and I'm so glad I did.

    I know what you mean about Ford of Crystal River, but don't think too badly of the techs. Their reimbursement for warranty work is pretty sad. :(
  • Have you had anymore severe vibration problems on your Ford pickup? FYI, I repalced the front coil springs and it handles very good now. The original 4800 coils were tooo stiff. The new ones are rated 4000. Total cost was $184.00. Best Regards, Tom.
  • Exactly the same thing has just happend to my 2000 F250. Yesterday the ABS, O/D light flashing and the speedometer.
    Today the check engine light joined the party. Did you find out what the problem was?
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    You need to have your head examined.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I'm assuming that you meant that in the nicest possible way? :surprise:

    An ABS failure indication light (assuming that it's not a sensor problem) tells you that the ABS system is not functioning. It's not an indication of total brake failure. Your brakes will function in just the same way as those on a vehicle without ABS.
  • hipstrahipstra Posts: 4
    My 2004 F-150 front wheel drive unit clicks / pops on every wheel rotation when the 4 wheel drive is engaged. This happens in low and high range. It is the dashboard activated system with a H4W and L4W selection.

    Sounds like the CV drive unit to the front axle could be going bad.

    I've only got 2 K miles left on the warranty so to the dealer it goes. Anyone seen this problem?

  • After removing the cat converter and muffler from my '03 6.0L, I began having rough idle problems. The dealer told me it was because of the modified exhaust (it causes the computer to retard or advance the turbo because of the lack of backpressure). Is this true of the '03 and is there a solution aside from replacing the parts?
    I love the sound and the added power.

  • cjlaw33cjlaw33 Posts: 4
    I know this was mentioned before but I didn't find a solution and am looking for any advice anyone can give. I have a 99' F-350 Superduty 7.3L Diesel, and it constantly makes the whining noise when I turn (loud). I also have to be in motion to turn it or else it won't turn. I recently replaced the power steering pump and it's not any better, maybe worse. I am not a mechanic by any means and am not sure what else to do. Isn't there something else that might need replaced or maybe the lines flushed out or something? Any ideas? Thanks.

  • camocscamocs Posts: 1
    Is your truck lifted at all? Are your inner fenders in place? My 2001 supercrew is lifted and when it rains I sometimes need to take the number 2 COP off. Remove the cop but don't remove the plug. Use a wet/dry vacuum to suck the water out of that. Once the water is out of the chamber check the plug. If there is water down the chamber you should (Sometimes)get a Code? Take it down to the parts shop unless you have an OBD II code checker. Autozone will do it for you. find out if you have a code. Bet it says the same code for a misfire or bad COP?
  • tim79tim79 Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 F-250 with about 17000 miles on it and the clutch went out on it. I took it to the dealer and of course it's not under warranty. When they replaced the clutch, they said it was so far gone it messed up the starter. Total to replace both, $2500 and change for a truck that doesn't even have 20000 miles on it. This is a work truck and I do use it to haul things, but isn't that what it was built for? I know how to drive, I have 3 standard transmission trucks and and a Jeep wrangler and a Mustang that are both standards. I have a '94 Chevy 3500 that has 90000 miles on it and as had one clutch put in it. I Just think it's rediculous to put $2500 in a brand new truck when I have a '94 chevy that I don't pay that much to maintain. Does something seem wrong here or should I just shut up and pay the money? Any help would be appreciated.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Another reason NOT to buy stick for a work vehicle. With automatic, the whole transmission is covered by warranty.

  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    They're correct in that the clutch friction plate is considered a wear item, though you might want to read your warranty for precise details, as brakes are also a wear item yet will usually be covered for x miles or the first year on most vehicles. However, it would be interesting to hear how a worn clutch can damage the starter!
  • I just purchased an '03 F150 Lariat supercrew SB W/tow pkg. Upon going over the controls/functions, I discovered a small, round, black "rocker style" switch located where the front airbag switch would normally be, just below the vent adjacent to the climate controls, and I cannot, for the life of me, figure out what it's for. Noone else seems to know either. Any ideas?
  • Does it have rear backup sensors on the rear bumper? If so it may be the switch to turn the sensors off when your hooked up to a trailer. My 06 has a push button.
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