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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • The horn buttons on my '94 f150 will not make the horn work. The horn is fine (panic button on keyless entry makes it work). Also noticed the airbag light blinking. Both horn and airbag wiring comes into steering wheel in a rotating connection. Suspect that connection has a problem. Has anyone experienced the same thing? How hard is it to replace that connection?
  • I haven't had problem myself. Though do have '95 F150. Rotating mechanism for electrical connections in steering column is referred to as the clock spring. From what I remember you've got to pull steering wheel, get inside column and replace this gizmo. Unfortunately, I've heard stated that you need three hands in order to do the job. Hopefully somebody else who's had experience with this can add something more useful than me. Good luck.
  • Do you also have cruise with the steering wheel mounted controls? If so, I'd bet that isn't working either. I had a clock spring replaced on mine a year ago. The dealership did it for $75.
  • Thanks to both for the clockspring info. I have cruise, but not sure if working. Will check that, but from the looks of things, the clock spring is the culprit. Dealer wants about 5x the price you paid(or $380)down here!! Seems a bit steep for what's involved. Dealer wants $91 just for this plastic part!! A local shop will do the job for $200, which is what I plan to do - have to have a horn! Horns used to work way past when everything else was worn out. Have we over-engineered this thing?
  • Maybe there is a design difference in our trucks. It only took about 30 minutes to fix. I've heard things are higher in CA, but that sounds ridiculous. Seems like I paid about $50 for the part.

    Like I said, there may be a difference in our trucks, but if you want me to, e-mail me and I'll send you my local dealers phone number. Then you can call and see if your dealer is trying to rip you off.
  • I am having a serious problem with my 98 Ford F150. It has only 60,000 miles on it and my mechanic is telling me that it has a cracked block and needs a new or rebuilt engine. This happened eight months ago and I called Ford about it they said there was nothing that they could or would do about it since it was out of the 3 year/ 36,000 mile warranty. Since then, I have been looking for a good price on engines for it on the internet and talking to friends and family about it. In my searching I have heard from several people that this is a common problem. I would like to know if in fact this is a common problem and if so what do I need to do to get my truck fixed. I understand that this engine was used in 1997-2000 F150's, so if anyone has a similar problem or knows anyone with this problem please email me @ I think if enough of us get together we can make Ford do something about it. Thank you very much,Scott
  • It is my understanding that most auto manufacturers have an unspoken 100K mi limited powertrain warranty. If you raise enough of a stink, Ford will pay for the parts, but you still have to pay for the labor. The transmission on my mothers Chrysler went out at 60k and Chrysler payed for a new one, but she still had to pay over a $1000 dollars for labor.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    This is the first time I've heard of anything like that. It does not sound common at all.

    Ford has no 'legal' obligation to help you in any way.. HOWEVER, I have heard of cases similar to what johncos mentions.

    =======If this happend to me==========
    I would have approached the dealership service manager, and remained polite and professional, and asked if there is any way that they can work with the Ford regional rep to help me out. I'm not asking for a freebie, but can they (FoMoCo) pay 1/2 the cost, or I pay labor and they (FoMoCo) pay parts etc.. Also call the Ford 1-800 customer service number and make a similar request.
    I've owned many Fords in the past, and plan to own Fords in the future. I am disappointed with this recent experience, and it doesn't seem like a typical problem, but was just a weird failure.
    (Heck, some Fords don't even recommend their first major service until after 100k miles).

    The best way to have FoMoCo or the dealership to completely ignore you or stonewall is to say 'I'll never buy another Ford'. When someone says this, it is clear that no matter what they do, they've lost a customer, so why help them..

    In my experience, if you give a company a reasonable chance to show their commitment to customers, they will help as any business as successful as Ford knows the value of repeat customers.

    This doesn't mean be a 'whimp', but it is possible to be firm.. This doesn't always work but I think I double my chances of getting a favorable outcome because I get 2 tries,
    Try 1: be a nice guy, (but firm)
    Try 2: then use the law (not so nice guy).

    Whereas if you use (not so nice guy) first, there's no going back.
  • Hi. yes there is a problem with bad oil pans in years 92 through 96, mostly in the gray color. I have a 93 with 70,000 miles that rusted out last year. I have patch it a couple times, but it just keeps rusting around the patches. I went to my local dealer for a pan and gaskets, they told me they always keep a few on hand because they replace so many. The good news is that its fairly inexpensive around $100. The installation isn't that bad you have to drop the oil sump on the pump to get the pan off. I hope this helps you.
  • I burn most of my CDs and I have found that the CD player will not play some of them. I have the remote 6 pack CD option. Has anyone else experienced this problem and has a solution been found?
  • My 2001 F250 CD/Cassette player won't play CD-R's either. I think that who ever makes the radio's for Ford, missed something. My '97 Grand Prix CD changer plays them. It's all in the design of these things. I even used the "Music CD-R's".
  • I could sure use some mechanical help... I have a 5-speed manual on my 2001 F150 (6-cylinder). I often slip it into neutral when stopped in traffic or at a light so I can give my left leg a break. Sometimes, it REFUSES to go back into gear. It's downright dangerous 'cause I'm left sitting there when everyone else is taking off from the light! Usually, I can get it into gear by finding one of the five that will work. This seems to then "free up" first gear (fourth gear usually works best although it can also be difficult sometimes).

    Even though I've had clutch problems in the past (the clutch master cylinder went out at about 4K miles), it doesn't seem to be a clutch problem causing this. The clutch is fully engaging and disengaging during normal use in about the middle of the clutch pedal stroke.

    Any ideas? I haven't yet brought it in to the dealer. I'd like to have some clues about what might be causing this so that I can make a semi-informed argument about it being a warranty issue (only 13K miles on the truck). I'd sure appreciate some help on this one.
  • fordtuffordtuf Posts: 101
    I have 2002 F250, I play my own CD's in it. While I was burning them a guy at work asked me if I had the factory Ford player, I said yes. He said you can not use the MP3 format (I think). He said that is the one you can cram a lot more music onto the disc with. You have to use the other, slower (???) format. Sorry I can't remember what he called it. Anyway he said most Ford players are like that.

    Tranny stuff:
    What I know/knew is that manual trannies have a synchronizer that is supposed to align the gears when you depress the clutch. The clutch, when not pressed in, still allows the shaft to turn inside your tranny. So when you go to put it back into gear, the gears are not lined up properly if the synchronizer is not right.

    Another possibility could be the pressure plate. When you depress your clutch you are causing a yoke and "through-out bearing" to push against the pressure plate, and therefore releasing the pressure that holds the clutch engaged to your flywheel. You said you had work done on your truck, it is quite possible that the parts changer( I mean mechanic) did not get the clutch adjusted properly. It may be possible that there is air in the clutch system not releasing the pressure plate all the way.

    These are just a couple ideas, I hope they help.
  • Not to get off subject, but MP3 is another type of compression for music files. I can put 20 music CD's on one CD if I use MP3. You have to have a player with the decoder built in for playing MP3's. Some are made just for MP3 and some have that extra decoder built in so it can play all formats of music CD's. The Mustang has an option for a player that plays MP3's. I wouldn't doubt it if another Ford vehicle has the same option. The "slower" format is what the CD's are in when you buy them from the store. It's just a smaller compression. It's all in the coding of the music storage.
  • I am trying to sell a 2001 F150 supercab, well equiped. My asking price is $2500+ UNDER Edmunds TMV (true market value?), have it posted on two major auto websites, and haven't had a single call in 2-3 weeks. Anybody have a similar experience? any suggestions?
  • i own a 1991 F-150 351 eng. heater not working. i slid the lever from cool to warm and the flipper door is workng properly. while in the heating mode all i get is the a/c. i removed the elec. conn. from the heater control valve and connected a volt meter from one of the wires to ground and got 12 volts. i went thru cooling mode and all settings from max to defrost and meter stayed on 12 volts. i tried it on the warm mode thru all settings and still received 12 volts. i then placed the meter on ohms and switched the probe to the other wire on the connector and receved continuity thru all the above settings and there was no break in continuity. How is this heater control valve suppose to work if it is always receiving 12 volts thru all of the above settings. i checked the wiring diagram in the Haynes Repair Manual but could not find the circuit that controls the valve. i would appreciate it if someone could tell me what controls this valve or how this system is suppose to work. Thanks. John
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Tough to sell a 2001 model year truck in late 2002.

    Only about 4k difference to start with.
    Most dealers are selling the new truck for invoice or less, so the difference is even less than 4k.

    Then add in the super low financing (0% in some rare cases), and generally financing rates are lower on new vehicles than used.

    Only 2 years of warranty left on the 2001, vs 3years of warranty on a new 2002.

    All of these factors may cause folks to come to the decision point:
    -do I take a chance on a used vehicle that I don't know anything about.
    -or buy a brand new 2002 off the dealer lot with 0 miles on it, and full warranty, lower fianancing etc.

    On the average, car dealers are suffering just like you.. It's not a sellers market to begin with.
  • I have a 00 f-150. The wipers come on for no reason and cycle about 2 times. This happens about once every other day. Are there any recalls on this item?
  • I burn lots of CD-R's and have not had a problem in my 2000 F-150. I burn them at 4X speed. You may experience some glitches if they are burnt at a faster speed. Good luck
  • I'd bet it is the multifunction control. I think our trucks have the same one. Mine, when I turn the wipers on, moving the selector to one of the variable positions, they work fine. When I have them on, either on low or high, then switch to one of the variable positions, they cycle way too fast. If I turn them off, then back to a variable position, they work fine again.
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