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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • I am looking to buy a lightening and i was wondering if anyone could tell me any problems that they have had with their lightening?
  • I believe you may have been mesmerized by Consumer Report's crusade concerning the "offset crash" results for the F150. It was rated a "poor" by the government. However, the Chevy/GMC trucks were rated only "marginal", yet CR gives them their "Recommended" seal of approval.

    CR is a great source for review of TV's, toasters, washing machines and diapers. For automobiles, your best bet is to stick with more authoritative sources.

    As for the Toy Truck, its OK if you want to pay several thousand dollars more for a less than full size cab, plus a bed that holds substantially less volume. You have to give them credit though, since they copied the F150 front end and dash panel as best they could. However on the new Tundra stepside, that is the ugliest looking butt I've ever seen. The current "old" F150 still kicks everybody's behind in sales, and it will be even more so when the '04 goes on sale.
  • flackoflacko Posts: 13
    Just bought a 1993 F350 7.3 liter diesel dually with 70K on it. The truck is like new...never driven in snow and is a one owner. The guy that owned it was a retired long haul driver. This 7.3 liter diesel is non-turbo. I understand 1994 was the first year of the turbo diesel. How do the two engines compare? Is the non turbo more or less reliable than the turbo version? Also, how often should I check the anti-cavitation additive in the coolant? So far I've driven it 800 miles and it runs fine, and I'm getting about 16-17 mpg on the highway empty. Is that pretty typical mpg for the non-turbo diesel? Thanks.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    The mileage sounds about right, I get 17-18 empty with my '99 dually. Those engines have a very good track record, from what I've seen and been told. Yes, there is quite a difference between the naturally aspirated 7.3 and the turbo 7.3. If you really have a cream-puff of a truck, go visit the Banks website. They have all kinds of goodies for that truck, ranging anywhere from simple exhaust kits all the way up to full blown turbo kits with everything else needed to make that truck really haul. The coolant additives, IMO, should be checked every oil change. My manual says to add "FW-16" every 15k miles. I have found mine only needs replenishing about every 20k miles. But, your truck probably will be different.
  • retdpmedretdpmed Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced a failure (shearing off) of their tie rod end bolts at low speed
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Are you talking about the bolts in the clamps, or the the nut on top of the joint?

    Sounds interesting either way.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Posts: 870
    I've got an '82 F350, which currently has single (albeit oversized) rear wheels. Anyone know what might be involved in converting it over to dual rear wheels? I need to sell it, but everyone that's called about it wants to know if it's a dooley or not (and when they learn it isn't, they're not interested).

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    It will cost you far more to convert it than what extra you will get out of it. If you do it right, anyway.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I suspect that you're asking a high price and that's why people are expecting it to be a dually. However, you'd have to get the parts very cheaply to make it worthwhile on a 21 year old F350.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    You could use these......

    image
    DUAL WHEEL ADAPTER SET
    Converts your single rear wheels to dual for increased payload
    Replacement extension bolt and valve stem extenders sold separately
    Improves sway control, a must for campers! Heavy-duty steel dual wheel adapters let you use your present wheel and tires together with spare tires (wheels and tires not included). Simple installation with regular lug wrench: 1. Mount first wheel, 2. Screw on extension bolts, 3. Slip on adapter, 4. Mount second wheel. Fit trucks and trailers with drop-center or standard wheels. Use only with standard width rims and tires. Not for vans with sliding side door or use with aluminum wheels, original-equipment dual wheels or Budd wheels. 2 adapters, extension bolts and instructions included.

    .....costs around $360

    together with these:.....

    image
    REAR FIBERGLASS FENDERS
    Rustproof and shock resistant
    Perfect with dual wheel adapters
    No costly body work—just trim and bolt on. Ready-to-paint gelcoat finish. Installs with regular hand tools. Instructions included. Additional fender extension required depending on application. Some trimming and modification/extension of gas filler tube may be required

    ....... also costs about $360.

    But I can't say that I'd do it myself.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Those only put more rubber on the ground. They do nothing to increase payload or towing capacity as the rear axle, chassis, suspension, brakes and drivetrain are still subject to the original design limits.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Absolutely correct, which is why I said I wouldn't do it myself. However, I posted it to give the guy an alternative idea.

    Maybe he'd like to tell us how much he was asking for his F350, and if he's still thinking about doing the conversion?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    We haven't heard anything about the asking price, have we??
  • araytarayt Posts: 1
    I looking at a 2001 150 and would like to know if the 4.6 engine as enough guts to pull a mid size (ford 3000) tractor?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    It should, but it won't win any races. If you have 4.10's it would be easier. Looks like a 3000 Ford tractor weighs just shy of 4,000 lbs. Assuming you have a typical 16'-18' flatbed trailer weighing in around 1,000 lbs and say a 5' mower, you'll be around 5,250-5,500 lbs. I wouldn't want to tow any more than that with a 1/2 ton, even if it had a bigger motor. My concern would be the brakes and suspension. I would definitely want the trailer to have brakes on all four wheels.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    I'm sure it could. How often and what terrain do you plan on towing the tractor.

    If your only going to tow it once or twice a year, then you can probably get away with the F150. However, if more often than that, you'll probably want to go to an F250.
  • don770don770 Posts: 12
    I have an 02 F250SD 4x4 V10. I will be pulling a 6500lb travel trailer with it. The 1st time I pulled with it, I noticed that it does not want to stay in overdrive at or above 65. I have the 430 gear ratio. Should I be using overdrive to pull at all? Called the dealer and they said I should not use overdrive. With this setup this truck is rated to tow 12500lbs. Seems like pulling 6500 it shouldnt be woking that hard. Any suggestions??
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    If you can use O/D without it "hunting" all the time, then by all means do it. If the tranny wants to shift in and out of O/D a lot, then turn it off.
  • don770don770 Posts: 12
    Hi Jim,,

    I guess my concern is: Shouldnt the V10 have enough power to tow 6500 lbs without hunting?
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I can't say for sure, but my gut feeling is that given the aerodynamics of your rig, the speed involved, and the fact that you're pulling a little over half the rated capacity, it doesn't seem unreasonable that it should drop out of overdrive under those circumstances.
    Just my 2 cents.
  • don770don770 Posts: 12
    That would be ok,, but at 65 mph the engine will be turning at 3250RPM, way too fast to drive any distance like that. Once it drops out of overdrive it doesnt seem to want to go back in unless I slow down. Guess I cant go any faster then 55 or 60?? I will have to check with people that have this same engine in their 17000lb motorhomes. I appreciate the response though. :-)
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Mac brought up a very good point. The aerodynamics on these truck are not exactly conducive to high speeds. And, you're putting a even bigger box behind you creating even more drag. I'm sure there is some formula to calculate this, but I'd bet a beer the wind drag increases exponentially with the increase in speed.

    Personal example of mine is an old truck I used to own, a 1987 GMC 1/2 ton. That truck would not maintain 75 mph on flat pavement, no load and no head wind, without kicking out of O/D. At 55 - 60 mph, it did fine.

    The motor has more than enough power for that load. In fact, I think the torque numbers aren't very much different than what the Powerstroke numbers are, only the V-10 is kicking out a bunch more ponies. The motorhomes are running a very similar, if not same, engine. But the tranny will be different with different programming in the PCM.

    No offensive intended here, but I think you might have shot yourself in the foot with the 4.30 gears. I have 3.73's in my 350 and I can pull my wife's 31 footer without any problems. I have read lots of complaints from guys with 4.30 gears. Admittedly they are all driving F-450's and 550's, but their complaints are all the same. The engine is really screaming at highway speeds and their fuel mileage goes to heck in a handbasket.

    The only options you have, IMO, are to either trade the truck, swap out axles with someone that wants a shorter gear, or plunk down about $1k for a new pinion and ring gear. I do know the 3.73's will pull your load just fine.
  • burly77burly77 Posts: 1
    I have a 99 f150 with the 5.4 triton. Recently I went to start it up and blew a spark plug out of the head. I've talked some people in the know and they've heard of it in V-10's, and a couple 5.4s. I heard of two Expeditions in the area with the same problem, but Ford is oblivious to the problem. Just wondering how widespread this actually is.
  • revituprevitup Posts: 8
    Greetings all, I own a 97 F150 XLT Club cab. After a trip I turn the engine off, get out and hear what sounds like bumblebees under the hood, it eventually goes away. Before I take it to the shop, does anyone have an idea of what it might be?

    Thanks.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    My father's does the same thing. I'm fairly certain it's not A/C related. I'd bet it is vacuum related. You might try disconnecting the vacuum line to the vacuum canister as soon as you shut off the engine. If the noise stops, then at least you'll know what the noise is.
  • leroybkrleroybkr Posts: 17
    I have a 99 F350 V10 4.30LS Auto SC SRW LWB and tow a 15000 lb 5th all over the US including mountain ranges up to 8000 ft. I always tow with the OD on unless I need direct drive for downhill speed control. I travel at 55-58 MPH. The rig stays in OD unless the grade exceeds 1% TO 2%. The 4R100 torque converter (TC) stays locked up as long as the speed is above 30 MPH (with the 4.30 axle) in either 2nd, 3rd or OD except during shifts . For this reason no TC heat is developed unless it constantly shifts in and out of OD. The shift control on the 4R100 does not allow hunting between 3rd and 4th on any steady grade. The only time I see shifting back and forth is when the grade is constantly changing from up hill to down hill.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    I've got a somewhat heavier rig than you, with CC 4x4 LWB. I've got V10 w/3.73 rear end, but only tow about 8-9K. Mine tends to shift in and outta OD more often than it sounds like your's does. If I towed more, I'd have gotten the 4.30, but am basically happy with the taller gearing. I have an Autometer tranny temp gauge, if I see temps start to creep up, I'll lock out the overdrive. I'm not that concerned about tranny, my cruise control makes me nuts though. On shallow grades or small rolling hills, at speeds between 60 and 70, it can't decide what it wants to do - speeds up, slows down repetitively, starts making me nuts. I think cruise causes the tranmssion to drop out of OD more than anything else. Of course dealer can't find anything wrong, even though I demonstrated the symptoms to them.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    .....at speeds between 60 and 70, it can't decide what it wants to do - speeds up, slows down repetitively.....

    I know you! You're the guy I'm always stuck behind on the small hills you can't overtake on. I sit there grinding my teeth thinking "Why the heck doesn't he use the cruise control instead of slowing down and speeding up like that!!!!"
  • bonvecbonvec Posts: 11
    I have a f350 dually v10 with 42,000 miles has been trouble free until recently. I had new tires and front end alignment about three months ago and everything was fine but now after I go over a bump or road surface changes (its actually pretty random) the steering wheel shakes violently until I slow down to about 20mph the shaking happens anywhere between 35 and65 miles an hour . The shop put on new tie rods but didn't help at all. Any suggestions please , I'm nervous driving this truck it shakes so bad.
This discussion has been closed.