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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Because of the year it sounds like you have a Saginaw-built gear box. The sector shaft seals can be tricky to install, much less removing the old one. Special tools are required to do the job correctly. In addition, you may have a worn sector shaft itself, not an uncommon problem on that year F-150.

    My recommendation is to price out a rebuilt gear box. Believe me, replacing the sector shaft seal and possibly any worn parts is more work than the price of a rebuilt.

    Dusty
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Posts: 105
    thanks for the comments.i was begining to think the same route.
  • fordgirlfordgirl Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 for f-150 with a lot of serious problems that I have been dealing with lately. I am starting to think I have an electrical problem. I bought the lemon check and nothing showed up but it seems that my truck has been submerged in water at some point in its life. So my question is...How do I fix my wipers?, they dont work at all. They used to work speraticly. and i noticed that when my interior lights dont work that my wipers dont either.(i know they arent related in any way but im telling you thats what happens)All the fuses for the lights and wipers are ok.So do i need a new motor? HOw do i tell someone please help me
    Im only 21 and this is my first truck and its sucks so please help
    thanks crystal
  • i own a 2002 Ford F 150 Supercrew 4 x 4 with ESOF.
    My problem is that the shift knob physically moves from 2H to 4H (and sometimes even to 4L)with =no effort on my part or any touching of the shift knob.
    I have been to my Ford dealer twice- about a month ago they replaced the GEM module and the second time (2 weeks ago) the Ford dealer replaced the shift knob itself. The problem still repeated itself earlier this week (after both repair attempts) I am getting frustrated!!!!
    Suggestions????????
    georgie52josh
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    FordGirl,
      Sorry about your problems. A few thoughts, and questions. Are the wipers and the interior lights on the same fuse in your truck, or are they two different circuits?

    Anyway, rule out all the simple stuff first. Check your fuses mechanically. I had a problem on one vehicle where the fuse wasn't blown, but the clip in the panel wasn't holding it well. The circuit would work sporadically depending on how bumpy the road was that I went over. Turn wipers or lights on, try wiggling the fuse and wiring harnesses, if things come on momentarily you'll have a good clue. Another time I had a circuit stop working, and visually the fuse looked fine, yet when I checked it with an Ohm meter, the fuse was open.
      You mention that you think that the vehicle was submerged. Are there water marks, or corrosion? Even if it wasn't, water could still be at the root of the problem. If there's a leak around the windshield, water could be dripping down behind the dashboard, wreaking havoc on your electrical system and electronics. Windshield leaks have been a bone of contention with some Superduty (F250/350) trucks - causes weird electrical symptoms. Look closely at the fuse panel, and wiring connectors, is there any corrosion or staining evident? If there is, and it isn't too bad you can clean it up yourself, - Q-tips, rubbing alchohol clean up dirt. If there's corrosion, you can clean electrical contacts with fine sand paper, or an emory stick. If corrosion is bad, then you may need replacement parts.
       One other thing, F150 has an electrical controller called a G.E.M. (General Electronics Module?). They are kind of the master controller for the vehicle, handles lights, turn signals, wipers, flashers, etc. When these start to go, again you get weird electrical behavior. Ford Rangers, and Explorers from 5-6 years back had a rash of GEM problems.
       There are alot of other things can cause your problems. You could just have a bad switch, if you bypass it, you could at least see if you wiper motor is okay. You could have a bad electrical ground somewhere. Unfortunately, you'd probably need a shop manual on how to diagnose and troubleshoot these type of things.

    Good luck. I know electrical gremlins can drive you nuts.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I have been looking for some time now for a one ton 4 wheel drive truck with a crew cab to use to drive personally, as well as on the farm for towing cow trailers, driving through pastures, plowed fields, woods, and so forth. Being frugal, having not bought a truck in--well--a number of years--, and after looking for some time I am still somewhat numbed by the prices I've encountered on even used ones. I had been adamant about a diesel, but have seen a price about $12,000.00 lower on a low mileage, used truck with a V-10. I know it won't pull quite the load a diesel will, and certainly won't get the fuel mileage a diesel will, but I can buy a lot of gas for the difference.

    My question is, how good is the V-10, how strong is it actually towing, and what experiences have any of you had with them? I wouldn't expect but around 12 miles per gallon, if that, on one. Anyone out there who can help?

    Thanks for listening.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I went into the archives of Town Hall and looked at the V-10 discussions there. Some are several years old, but there seems to be no major problem mentioned and generally the impression of owners appears to be good, other than the gas mileage, which seemed to be around what I had anticipated. Does anyone have any information on the newer ones that I should consider before buying one?

    I appreciate any help or information anyone can offer.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    I have an '01 F350 V10, 4x4,long bed, with a 3.73 rear end, that has about 29K on the odometer. I have had absolutely no problems whatsoever with this engine. The truck gets used for myriad different things. It tows a 30' travel trailer that's about 9K lbs wet. It tows another trailer that's about 11K when I borrow a skid steer. Truck has more than ample power for either of these tasks. (Though, I do live practically at sea level, and have not towed up any mountains bigger than Alleganys and the Catskills.) I've also had 4,000 lbs plus in the bed, and have been able to safely merge onto the highway, with out having to floor the throttle. I surprise little "Ricer" cars from a stoplight with the acceleration of this motor especially considering it's pushing a 7000 lb+ truck - it will chirp the tires on first two upshifts when pushed hard.
        There are three problems I've heard of on the V10. First is that on '99, thru '01 models the cylinder head only has about 6 threads to hold the spark plugs in place. If the plugs are torqued too tightly, they can deform the threads, and engine can spit out a plug - have heard it happen on a few higher mileage engines. Plugs are supposed to last for 100k miles between changes, but my mechanic told me that to avoid the problem, the plugs should be taken out, and retorqued every 25-30K miles. Plug removal is a bit tedious, because there are individual coil modules on each plug, and some of plugs towards rear of motor are awkward to get to, resulting in some skinned knuckles. But cheaper than having the head removed to put a heli-coil in for a new plug.
       Second V10 problem is noise that comes from the y-pipe in the exhaust header at certain engine speeds. Noise is called "the Flutter." Basically its a resonance that occurs in the exhaust stream at about 2500-3000 rpm. Almost makes motor sound like a diesel. Ford changed the y-pipe in early '01. There's also a heat shield near this pipe that contributes to this noise, it either touched or resonates with the y-pipe. Exhaust flutter is only an annoyance, and causes no damage. After mid '01 Ford appears to have solved this.
        Third, is called piston slap. Very early models of 5.4 V8, 6.8 V10 had this on cold statup. Piston was not bored out to proper spec - piston banged top of cylinder head until engine fully warmed up. Supposedly, wasn't a fatal problem, but Ford apparently replaced all of these motors when owners complained. Only happened very early in '99 model year.
         Power of engine is awesome. I love to put my foot into it. Drawback is fuel consumption. On the highway, I can get around 12-13 mpg. 14 MPG is possible at a constant 55 mph, while going down hill, with a 30 mph tailwind, while drafting behind a tractor-trailer. Above 70 mph, the aerodynamics of the truck makes it really get thirsty! City driving is usually ~10 mpg. Towing gets painful. With RV, I can get 9-10 mpg if I drive like my Great Grandmother. Towing the skid steer it's like 7-8 mpg. Fuel tank on long bed holds 39 gallons - a fill up at $2.25/gallon is excruciatingly painful. I think a short bed only has a 26 gal. tank. (This truck is not my daily driver, so I can live with the fuel cost.) You can also get a V10 with 4.30:1 rear end, this would give more torque for towing - with ~1 mpg mileage penalty.
       Basically, if you don't tow heavy all of the time, where you'd need the better mileage that a diesel would give, the V10 is an excellent alternative. You have more HP than Powerstroke, and still get about 80% of the diesel's torque; without having to worry about diesel fuel and maintenance issues, glow plugs, low temperature starting, etc.
      V10 with the Ford Superduty chassis is a great truck. You can beat the snot out of it every day, and it will take it in stride.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    Sounds as if the V-10 would do what I need a larger truck for very nicely and at less purchase cost. Also sounds as if it would behoove me to look for one from 2001 up. You mentioned the price of gas you use in yours. Does that engine require midgrade or higher gas, or does it run on low grade?

    Thanks for the help!
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    You're welcome.

    Runs on regular unleaded in stock form. Tried premium a couple of time when towing in hilly areas, but didn't see any difference in power for the extra money.
    One added plus for '01 and newer V10: Ford bumped up power of engines by about 20 HP and ~40 ft-lbs of torque over the '99, and 00 engines.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I think I'll go with the V-10. Diesels are great for the user that hauls heavy loads frequently, even more so if it is over long distances. If I felt I could justify the additional cost of a diesel as I will be using it I would opt to go with one, but I will be towing the heaviest loads just a few times a year over a relatively short distance, and not driving the truck far when I use it unloaded, which I don't think is good for a diesel to begin with.

    Thanks again for the input.
  • tflotflo Posts: 3
    I have a 99 F-350 SuperDuty diesel truck. Recently I've noticed that when I drive it hard with a trailer in tow, I get a really bad vibration when I come to an idle. I took it to the dealer and they said I needed an oil change (which it was time for). They said it had no other codes other than oil airation. Even after the oil change the problem still persists, I can drive along 75mph and not really notice any problem, when I decelerate and come to an idle the engine is missing badly and when I take off again. Once I get the RPM's up you cannot feel the miss anymore. When I'm driving with no load, I have not noticed the problem, only under loaded conditions. Any ideas what could be causing this?
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    When did you change your fuel filter last? And have you had your fuel lift pump (assuming they still have those) checked? I had a diesel tractor that started skipping at idle, changed the fuel filter, and it ran like a sewing machine. And if you have a mechanical fuel lift pump, which is the same thing as a fuel pump on a gas engine, if it is beginning to go bad it could do the same thing. It pushes fuel from the level of the tank up to the injector pump. I had a Ford diesel van years ago that would stop running and when I checked the fuel filter it was not full. I changed that pump and that solved that problem.
  • teacupteacup Posts: 1
    96 f-250 with captains chairs can anyone tell me how to remove the arm rests,I need to put set covers on. thanks teacup
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I've got a very similar situation with my truck, also a '99 F-350. My problem started out with some bad fuel, it had water in it. I took it to a mechanic and two injectors had to be replaced due to water damage. "bmaige" mentioned a lift pump, our trucks don't have one, per se. Ford has an inline electric fuel pump that supplies fuel to the injectors, much like those found in a gasser, with no mechanical injector pump mounted on the engine. The fuel is actually injected via a high pressure oil system, i.e. hydraulics, that depressed the plunger in each injector to force the fuel into the cylinder. That is why the dealership told you an oil change would fix it. Any aeration of the oil will cause drivability problems.

    My suggestion to you, unless you are somewhat competent under the hood and don't mind a challenge and have a deep wallet to shell out for diagnostic equipment, is to find a good diesel mechanic. Either your dealer doesn't have one or he/she was never consulted about your truck. There are only a few places in the injection system where a mechanical failure can occur, the majority of the injection system is software/computer driven. That's why I mentioned the diagnostic equipment.

    I guarantee a good diesel mechanic will be able to find the problem relatively quickly.
  • ajhdownerajhdowner Posts: 1
    I just bought a 90 F-150 XLT w/ 302 8cyl. and if I have the A/C on when I come to a stop the idle drops and it dies. It does fine while you are moving. And also, some times when I go to start it, it will turn over for about 10 seconds and not hit a lick and then I can let of the switch and hit it again and it fires right up. From what I have read in the service manual the only thing I can come up with is a bad EGR valve but I wanted a second opinion before I go and buy one, any information will be greatly appreciated. Thank You
  • 92 F-150 with 5.8 V-8 with 121,000. Normal idle in gear maybe 800. Idle will suddenly raise to may 1300 in gear and in nuetral over 2000. Thought it might be linkage, but it happened at a stoplight suddenly yesterday. Assume then it is a sensor or perhaps vaccuum. Believe it to be a failing sensor of some sort that might be affected by heat, as the problem takes 10-15 minutes to appear. Any items stand out from past experience?
  • tflotflo Posts: 3
    Thanks, I've been looking for a good private mechanic. I was thinking it was either the injectors, ECU, or CAM sensor. At any rate, thanks for the feedback. TFLO
  • bigfootbigfoot Posts: 1
    #1 of 2 brake- gas pedal seperation by bigfoot Jun 27, 2004 (10:15 pm)

    Owner 2004 F-350 super 5.4L Auto tran.
    Experiencing an occasonal horrifing problem.
    Because the Brake Pedal is so close to the gas pedal (2.5in)seperation it is very easy for your right foot,(especially one wearing work boots), to overlap the gas pedal and press it simultaniously. Has anyone experienced this situation?
  • mwfordmwford Posts: 1
    Hello

    I'm looking to buy a 94' F 350 turbo deisel. It has 288 K miles on it. Will it still go another 100 K miles strong? The truck is clean and well cared for. A decent price of 6 K. Any comments would be most helpful. Any problems with this trucks engine? or mechanics I need to know about??

    Thanks
  • Hello happy Ford fans, I have recently had a problem with my truck which my "professional" mechanical type people at Ford Canada can't seem to help me with. While turning left and using the left indicator, on occasion the light on the dash will freeze with the arrow illuminated and shortly thereafter smoke can be seen coming out of the area around the hazard activation button. I have had my truck up to the dealership twice for this problem and all they did is send it back with different problems. There opinion is that they haven't seen any evidence of damage in the column (1st time I know they didn't even open it up, wasn't a finger print in the dust) 2nd time they said they found no evidence of any "burning" in the column. Have any of you fine people got any ideas on how to convince Ford that there is something wrong, short of letting the truck burn to the ground, Any advice would be nice. Over
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,676
    down our truck choices...Dakota too small, and lumbar support in drivers seat is inadequate... highly impressed with Silverado ext cab, inflatable lumbar support in both driver and passenger seats...Ram just feels like driving a Kenworth, altho it was well made and Hemi power is nice...considering Ford F150, used, 2001, 2002, 2003, King Ranch version of ext cab, 5.4L, 2WD, auto trans, short (5.5 or 6.5 ft bed) (also available King Ranch 4 Door supercrew, but wife prefers ext cab)...any thoughts on King Ranch???...I ask for your thoughts because I see so few of them, may be hard to find...would hate to ask a dealer to "find one" and then not be pleased with its amenities...I believe they have saddle leather captains chairs for front passengers with center console, is this correct???...also, do they come with either green or blue exterior paint???...how well equipped are they inside, and do the captains chairs have adjustable low back supports for just driver, both, or neither???...any help is appreciated, as I narrow down my choices and options for the wife's truck...
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    with new car/truck incentives at a record high, I would strongly recommend you look at the new '04 F150. The seats have been re-designed with lumbar and they are as comfortable a seat as I have ever sat in.

    A dealer this past weekend was advertising ALL '04 F150 XLT supercabs at $8500 below MSRP - that means you can get a car equiped just the way you want for close to $21,000 plus tax, title and registration.

    Don't buy a one year old truck with incentives like these.

    You can go to ford.com and build your truck then put in your zip code and they will point you to inventory at a dealer near you. Once you have a VIN, your ready to negotiate.
  • Has any one had a problem with the steering. I have a slight noise when the steerin wheel is moved off center left or right. Feels like the pump or rack may be the cause the noise? It goes away after awhile
    any service bulletin on the 2004 F150 trucks?
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,676
    Thanks for the advice...we checked out a new F150 Lariat on Saturday, and when we walked in we were offered a "friends and family" discount, which the salesman said could add up to $10K off MSRP...we were floored...the truck is the quietest we have drive, a little large, but got used to that quickly...will be buying the Lariat shortly...wonder if rebates will improve as we go into August, any thoughts???
  • aspesisteveaspesisteve Posts: 833
    WOW! that sounds awesome
    when you say "family" are you referring to a member in the family who worked for Ford or as an existing Ford owner? either way, it's the best deal I've heard of or seen posted here.

    Re: rebates - it's hard to tell what they will do. When rebates go up, sometimes it means the dealer will back off from his discount - so it doesn't always mean the total cost is lower.

    I've been posting here for several months and seen the advertisements go from $5k off msrp in March to $7k off MSRP in June to $8,500 off MSRP in July. Who knows where the end is??
  • fordford Posts: 2
    I have a 99 F350 SRW LB V10 AUTO SC with 140,000 miles. Several months ago the Air Bag light suddenly began flashing twice followed by seven flashes and a long off delay. This is repeated several times after startup and then it remains on solid. None of the manuals show the code. The computer does not display any codes. The ford dealer will not tell me anything except to bring it in. I have disconnected the battery for 15 minutes to no avail. Has anyone else had this problem and solved it?
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Ford,
     Haven't had the problem. Do know that if the SRS indicator light is on, it means that your air bag system is disabled and will not deploy even if you're in a real accident.

    There's a Web Site that's run by Ford Service Technicians called "Flat Rate Tech." It's usually for the mechanics and their grievances against Ford, but they also provide a help service to the Do it Yourselfer. You can submit your question over there, and they will try their best to answer it via return E-mail. They got access to all the manuals and computer data bases that you and I can't get to. They're usually pretty helpful, and do a pretty fair job considering they're not actually putting their hands on the vehicle. It's free of charge.

    http://flatratetech.com/consumerform.htm
  • roger3roger3 Posts: 1
    I have started to tow a 6500 lb trailer with my 1998 F150/5.4 engine. I noticed that the coolant gauge needle only goes up about 1/4" (just to the top of the little icon) no matter how hard I am pulling up a long grade in 80 degree weather. When I first start it up the gauge needle is at the bottom and then goes up the 1/4" an no more.
    How can I diagnose if I have a faulty gauge or sensor and where in the heck is the sensor located?
  • eqf150eqf150 Posts: 1
    I have a '95 F150 4X2 (300 V6) with dual fuel tanks. When I switch from the rear tank to the front tank, the engine stalls. The truck works fine on just the rear tank. Both tanks are full of new gas. You can hear the fuel pump come on when it is on rear tank, but it doesn't do anything when you switch to the front tank. I've checked the fuses. It looks like they have a common fuel pump and a common fuel filter, which leads me to beleive it is not a clogged fuel line.
    Let me know if anyone has any ideas.
This discussion has been closed.