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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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  • hi,i have a 2001 f-150,supercab,i have noticed extreme jumping that seems to come from the rear of my pick-up. i thought it was the worn tires,but i had them recently replaced.the pick-up had 34k when i bought it this year,now it has 45k on it,it has had this problem since i ve owned it. this problem i ve noticed seem to happen at 70mph on highways that have washboard bumps on them. its not as bad at 55mph,but ive noticed other pickups in front or behind of me that seem to be riding smooth,my headlights shining on other vehicles on the road are constantly jiggling,has anyone else had this problem,thanks for any information or help.
  • Same situation here.. '01 F150 Supercrew - with around 45K miles. I think it is the shocks. Had the front shocks replaced at around 20K miles after the front tires were ruined. Mechanic told me that Ford puts on the worst factory shocks and has seen some last less than 15K miles. Probably time to get the rears replaced now.

    Has anybody else experienced this?
  • I have a 2003 Ford F-150 SC with 24K, when do I change the transmission fluid.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Jumping - What is the pressure in your tires, especially the rear ones? Compared to the recommendation pressure on the door tag?

    Transmission - Read your owners manual. The 'Maintenance' section will specify when the transmission fluid is to be changed.
  • I have just recently bought a pre-owned 2003 F-150 4x4 XLT with the XTR package. The dealership where I bought the truck didn't know what the XTR package is. Does anyone on here have any information that would help me understand what I have?
  • I have just recently purchased an F-150 supercab 4x4 XLT with the XTR package. I bought this vehicle from a dealership which sells a lot of different models of used cars. They couldn't tell me everything about my truck like a window sticker would. Is there anywhere that I could obtain this kind of information on my truck through my vin # ? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • schris4ua

    can't you use Edmunds used car page and look up this exact model to determine what comes standard with the XTR package?
  • I have an 1994 F150, 180,000 kms, auto trans. Four months ago it started shifting hard into 3rd. The fluid contained bubbles. I changed the fluid and filter and it worked fine. It is starting to shift hard again into 2nd and 3rd usually after it has heated up. There are no bubbles in the fluid now. Any comments, or suggestions would greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Has it been serviced regularly, i.e. regular filter and fluid changes and band adjustments? If not, with the mileage you have, don't be surprised if it needs a rebuild.
  • I have a 2004 F150 and have recently noticed a howling sound while accelerating. I have 10000 mile on it currently. The dealer said it is a known problem with the rear axle in some way, cant remember their exact wording. They told me that Ford engineering is working on a fix.

    Has anyone else experienced this problem?
  • #144 of 144 4x4 trouble by bfassett Sep 15, 2004 (11:14 am)

    Reply
    I have a 2002 F-150, long bed with a tow package small V-8.I recently bought a car to help keep gas costs down and the truck sits for extended periods of time- only 200 miles this summer..I am having a great deal of trouble getting into 4 wheel drive.I don't want to force it ,but most of the time it won't go in,Any thoughts.Also the Service Engine Light is staying on and it is running VERY rough.Thanks
  • Think you need to use the truck just a tiny bit more.
    I've seen more stupid problems with vehicles suffering from lack of use than ones that are driven every day. My Mom had 15 year old Plymouth that only had 28K miles on it - we ended up junking it because every gasket, seal , and piece of rubber in it was randomly disintegrating and the car had become a too much of a liability for an old lady to drive.
     As far as your truck goes: sounds like possibly the lubrication in the front hubs has gotten dry and stiff from lack of use. (Take it this is a manual 4wd, and not shift of the fly) Even though I bought my 4x4 for winter use, I still will engage it once every week or two during the summer. I either go on a straight stretch of road for a couple miles, or hit a gravel road that's nearby. Unfortunately, if it's the hubs, don't know what to do besides pulling them and re- lubing them. (Also have you been off roading or anything - check to see if any linkages have gotten bent.)
       Is this the "check engine" light or maintenance indicator (not familiar w/ newer 150s) that's on. As far as the check engine and rough running, you could have a fuel problem. As gas sits for long periods, it tends to turn to "varnish" and gums things up. It could also be water in the fuel; if tank is only part way full and it sits for a while, water vapor can contaminate it.
       If it's your check engine light on, it's throwing a service code - Autozone will scan your engine computer and report problems for free. That would be the best place to start.,
      Odds are you probably need a fresh tank of gas. A replacement fuel filter, and maybe a dedicated cleaning of your fuel injectors by a mechanic with something a bit stronger than a bottle of STP injector cleaner.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Bubbles in the fluid could have been old fluid that had become aerated. You should consider paying a shop to do a full fluid replacement (not just draining what's in the pan), making sure the correct recommended fluid is filled. This usually runs around $150. Hard shifts sound like a sticking accumulator piston which can sometimes be cured with new fluid.
  • That is about the same time I noticed mine. I'm at 19k now and I've had it in to the dealership three times since. Each time they tell me that ford has a TSB out and basically all it says to do is lube some area in the rear axle and then send you on your way. It doesn't work. I've been told to document the issue by taking it back to the dealership regularly. I wish Ford would hurry up and figure this out. I don't want to deal with this when my warranty has expired.
  • You know what, I've got a light howling in my rear axle as well. Admittedly, my axle is probably different than yours - I have an F-350 dually. I notice it most in 6th gear over 50 mph. It goes away when I take my foot off the accelerator. I have 157,5xx miles on my truck now. The noise hasn't gotten any worse, the gear lube has never looked overheated nor do the gears look worn. At first it bothered me, but now it doesn't anymore.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Your symptom is characteristic of either incorrect ring gear backlash or pinion depth. Could be the result of worn teeth on the ring or pinion gears.

    The rear axle lubricant could have water in it or be in need of changing. You could try draining and refilling with a higher viscosity gear lube. Usually, however, once they start to howl the damage is done.

    Good Luck.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • balsdon
    waiting 15-20 seconds for the engine to settle down doesn't seem like a long time to me provided the engine is cold. Are you in a cold environment? Does it do this when the engine is warm?

    If anything, the problem lies not with your engine but with the automatic choke (my guess)
  • I have recently replaced the front discs of my F-150. Soon afterward I started noticing a very weak brake peddle. The rotors (looked) fine when I replaced the pads. Also during braking I hear what seems to be chattering from behind the steering wheel. I bleed all brakes and adjusted the rears. It was braking great for about 2 weeks. The problem has started again. Loose pedal and chattering. I'm thinking master cylinder now. Any other ideas.
  • Hi, I have an F150 with a 351m engine, 1981 model. I haul a lot of metal so it gets plenty of work, but i just installed a used transmission and I have reverse, but no forward gears at all. The guys at the junk yard told me that if I have reverse then I also have at least low, but not in this truck... I've drained all the fluid, cleaned the sludge out of the pan, replaced the filter and even blew plenty of carb cleaner through the valve body to loosen so called sludge there. I then replaced everything, fluid included, raised the rear wheels and ran through all the gears several times, even reving it up and nothing...Low gear makes a "clunk" noise when the wheels are off the ground, but that's it..still nothing..
    Any suggestions other than replacing it again? This is all but totally bankrupted me.. I can't work because I'm self employed so my ONLY alternative is to either replace and HOPE the dinky jack I have will lift the truck high enough or sell the basta....truck and get another...
    I"m desparat and will try almost anything..
    Thanks in advanced..

    M
  • I also have a whining from the rear axle at light acceleration especially around 30-35MPH. The dealership has indicated that the rear axle used on the 2003 models has a problem with the ring and pinion gear causing the whining. I've been waiting 5 weeks already for all the parts to arrive so they can replace it. The hold up is just one part which is on back order until October. So if your dealership is giving you a line of ( ), I suggest you suggest the ring and pinion gear assembly.
  • I have an 02 XLT F-150 4.6. I had to replace the #1 and #2 coils recently. After the replacement I have a noticable engine rpm flutter, not necessarily a misfire, but all I can describe it as is a "flutter". It occurs most notably between 1k and 2k rpms. Brought it to the dealership and had it on the dio, but none of the cylinders were spiking. I had one scenerio where at 65mph the whole engine was shaking, like I had tow front tire blowouts. But its really a consistent vibration you can feel in the seats, steering wheel and you can see the visors moving. My question, should I get the remaining coils replaced even though the computer is not indicating this? If I go that route, will it solve the problem? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • Hi everyone, wanted to know if anyone has had this happen. I've got a 1998 f-150(totally stock) that has blown 2 sparks plugs..one they were able to screw back in, some threads left.(that was a couple years ago) The latest one blew out about a week ago like a shotgun blast and took the threads with it. The Easy Care extended warranty I bough from the Ford dealer at 35,000 miles didn't want to pay to replace the head until I fought it. (inspector determined that the spark plugs were over torqued at the factory) Now we discover one cylinder is very low on compression and upon taking the engine out we find that the piston skirts are warn from slapping the cylinder walls and they are now scored. the tech says we should put in a rebuilt long block from Ford but Easy Care is denying the claim saying it was due to poor maintenance. The crank bearings are also worn. The threads in the cylinder could have caused some wear and may have worked their way down into the bottom of the engine but it sure is disappointing since the truck is in nice shape and has only 70,000 miles. Any ideas on how to battle Easy Care, Ford would have helped with some cash but they want to put it on the warranty company since I have one. We just had a baby and I can't afford a new engine!!!
  • good luck with the coils...I've had to replace 3 on my 1998 5.4. hey wait till the dang thing fails and the fuel builds up and then it fires!
    Say goodbye to your spark plug and perhaps the threads that come out with it!!! I've blown two plugs out and now my motor is trash, think the threads went down the cylinder and scored the wall. better make sure your plugs don't back out and that you torque them correctly or else you'll weaken the whimpy aluminum heads. I've got a real mess on my hands.
  • WOW !!
    With all these problems I am reading and the nightmare stories of bad customer services , I'm starting to doubt my desire for a 05 FX4.

    Also , Is there a place to find a Ford dealers customer service rating in my area ?
  • bdm1bdm1 Posts: 3
    I have 04 f250 5.4auto 4x4. Engine sounds like a light diesel when started cold. Had to dealer when truck had 400mi on it. They told me noise was {acceptable} as per special service message#16403, which states some 5.4 motors may exhibit a light tick or rattle until engine warm up. Due to light load operating conditions and normal bore clearances in a cold engine.It does not affect performance or durability of engine. My truck now has 1,500 miles on it. Diesel noise has gotten louder and I can still hear noise even after truck blows heat from heater. Noise does not sound like tick or rattle sounds more like clank or knocking. Going back to dealer for second time to let them listen to engine. Does anyone know more about this subject? Would appreciate any input.
    Thank you.
  • hey fx,
    don't get discouraged on ford too much. remember, this is the problem board; not 'how much I like my truck board'. All cars/trucks have problems - if there's a make on Edmunds, then there's a board posting problems.

    From what I read here, I haven't seen many re- occuring problems; at least not recently.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    When they say "It does not affect performance or durability of engine.....", you should consider it to also mean ".....during the warranty period only". The complete statement will also probably be correct only if the noise gets no worse.

    In your case you need an independent professional diagnosis of the problem, assuming that the dealer doesn't do the right thing when you return. Knowing that you're not going to quietly fade away will probably help them to do the right thing!
  • GO TO THE DEALERSHIP AND GET YOUR FREE 8 INCH EXTENTIONS FOR YOUR SEATBELTS AND PLUG THEM IN THE FEMALE SIDE, AND BE (DING FREE)
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    If the noise continues to get louder, then yes you have a problem. Continue to pursue a solution as it gets worse, give the dealer a few tries. That TSB is correct as there is a certain amount of acceptable noise associated with startup on those engines, but if it gets worse with more miles then the motor is more likely "breaking down" than "breaking in."
  • mezecamezeca Posts: 66
    Every car since auto choke has had a fast idle circuit to help cold running. Today's computer cars are no different.
This discussion has been closed.