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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions



  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    I have never thought to post any question about my 79-F-150 in here, but why not? Anyway, my 1979 F-150 is a regular cab, long bed 2x4 with a 302 (5.0L) V8 with the C4 three speed auto tranny. It was restored and repainted a dark green (couldn't stand the poop brown color), however it is a continuous project that I work on in my spare time. The frame and engine bay are still in need of refurbishment and cleaning. The bed will have to be replaced in the future as well, but for now it looks nice! Anyway, enough of that crapola, now to the important part.

    I bought the truck at 90,000 miles 5 years ago (It has 128,000 currently) and shortly after I started getting a rattling/clanking noise from my engine when traveling at highway speeds (60MPH +). It only does it when in drive (wont make noise when held at the same RPM as on highway while in park) and is inconsistent, meaning that it comes and goes. It also only happens when I am just cruising, so if I press on the gas harder or take my foot off the gas, it stops. This seems to have been a problem since I had a new carburetor put on. I have also done a top engine clean, had my timing adjusted, tried different octanes of gas, and while some things seem to help it, it never goes away completely. I don't know where to go next. Do I look at the distributor for problems with the vacuum advance or do I turn to the electronic spark controller, or is the carburetor the cause of my problems? How about the EGR valve or a vacuum leak? While the noise hasn't really gotten worse in the last 30,000 or so miles that it has been doing this, I am worried about the damage it may be causing to the engine. Plus no one can tell me what the noise is. The truck runs beautifully, and gets about 14 MPH average, which is great, but I don't want to be stranded someplace or have to put in a new engine right now. So, if there are any ideas out there I would be greatly appreciated to hear them:)
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    I put a 351W in a '62 Comet once upon a time. When I rebuilt the engine before stuffing it in there, I didn't get the single bolt that holds the eccentric (drives the fuel pump) attached to the front of the cam tight enough. It started flopping against the inside of the cam cover with a REALLY un-nice clanking sound. Major sphincter action.
    This may not be what you have, but if the timing chain tensioner is getting worn, it might be touching the cover and providing you with the unfriendly sounding clanks.
    Might be worth a check see, especially if your water pump is getting up there in age (while you're at it).
    Good luck and happy trails.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Can you describe the sound? Is it a spark knock or something else? I've had a few 70's F100s with the 302s and Iv'e piddled with them quite a bit.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    First off, thank you for your willingness to help me out with this one. Who knows, maybe we are on to something?

    Now, the only battle is trying to figure out how to make the noise appear on this page. I think rattling is a pretty good start, but that can mean a lot of things. To me it sounds like valvetrain noise. Like a rocker arm and pushrod are just flapping all over the place. However, this only happens when I am cuising with a steady foot on the accelerator going 60 MPH +. Another way I can think of this noise is when you take two spoons and hold them together back to back and shake them (haha not sure if this is how that works with the spoons, but I have seen this done with certain music (bluegrass?)) So, take that noise and do it with 3 or 4 sets of spoons rapidly, it would sound like a rattling or clacking. It can be clearly heard inside the cab. Not sure if this is actual detonation or not. I find it strange that it goes away the more I press on the gas. I did forget to mention that I did the top engine clean because the noise became much louder. I was really nervous that something was about to go, and thought that it might be possible that I had carbon buildup in the top end of the engine that was causing the ruckus. 50% of the noise was gone, but quickly came back (100 miles) to the way it was before it became louder. I am about to pour some more money into the engine. I need a new radiator and I have a coolant leak somewhere (not the water pump). So one of these days I will have to get the hood open and spend a day with it. Again, thank you for your help.
    p.s Would the noise coming from the cam cover happen at any other time (idle, acceleration, etc) or just at the times I am describing? I have been told before that this could be a place to look for an issue. Also, would the performance of the fuel pump be effected if this was happening?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    JRC. How're the bushings in the distributor?
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    Huh, didn't know there were any. Where do I find these bushings, and what will they look like if they are bad?
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    The way you describe it would be consistent with pinging, you only hear it under certain throttle positions. I don't know that's what it is, but you can check EGR operation under part throttle to see if it's all working. You may have to pull the intake off and remove the EGR assembly and clean it if it's carboned up. There are a lot of small EGR passages in that intake that get plugged up over the years.
    You mentioned that the noise started after putting a new carb on it, I wonder if the new one is a perfect match? If not you may have a lean condition in certain ranges. Do you still have the old one by any chance? This is hindsight, but I always prefer to rebuild an old carburetor rathe rthan replace it for fear that the parts store will sell me the wrong one, or one that was rebuilt with the wrong metering valves etc.
    It could be a million things, hopefully it's not engine trouble.
  • jrc346jrc346 Posts: 337
    No I don't have my old carb, I gave it back to get some cash for the core. Guess that wasn't a good idea, but I have never rebuilt a carb before, plus I know zilch about how to adjust them. I know that it is leaned off ever so slightly for gas mileage reasons, so maybe that could be what is causing the problem? Again, I have no clue how to make the mixture slightly more rich. I do have a Haynes manual, and I have seen adjustments in there, but I don't want to mess something up haha. I am thinking seriously about looking at the EGR. I haven't ever cleaned it, and since the top engine clean made a difference for a short while, it kinda makes sense. What do you think? Thanks for the imput, I may be able to work on it this weekend. Take care.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    One other thought I had: Check the tensioner bolt on the distributor hold down. I had to put a new distributor on my 79 302 and after about a week the thing was pinging like crazy, getting worse each day. Turned out I hadn't torqued the hold-down bolt tight enough and the distributor was slipping and advancing itself as I drove it. Whoops!
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    The rotor is attached to a shaft that turns within the distributor housing. Most of them have a greased bearing surface (called a bushing) that will eventually wear to the point of allowing the shaft to wobble around. This changes the timing more and more as it wears. Especially a problem when vacuum advance was implemented.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    #586 of 605 '03 first impressions by spoom [ United States of America ] Feb 15, 2004 (6:34 pm)

    I needed a truck that could pull a 5000lb trailer and since my first (and last) GMC experience left me incapable of ever giving them a dime again I was left between Ford and Toyota. I'd had Toyotas since '76 and Fords before that. The '03 5.4 Flareside Supercab I eventually got came in at about $2k less than the Toy due to incentives, etc. After about 3 months of ownership I am surprised how bad the wind noise is at highway speeds with a crosswind. It sounds like the window is cracked open but it isn't, and switches from side to side depending which side the wind is coming from. Is this common with this body style? The other thing I noticed is that I am spoiled from my "97 Jimmy SLT's dual sun visors with the slide out extensions. The ones on the Ford PU leave a huge open area in the center of the windshield that is more than just a little annoying. Do the Lariat models have something better? I can give up my super dooper 6 way power seat, but driving into the sun is almost impossible. Any thoughts?
    #587 of 605 `03 First Impressions by busman01 [ United States of America ] Feb 16, 2004 (8:04 am)

    1. I too had the wind noise issue in my supercab. Turns out the back door was not closed completely. Shut it well and the wind issue should be resolved.
    2. I have the Lariat and I too long for extended visors.
    #588 of 605 spoom by jrc346 [ United States of America ] Feb 16, 2004 (9:48 am)

    These trucks are supposed to be pretty quiet. If you don't care for the noise, take it back to your dealer and have them fix it. The least they could do is replace the door seal:)

    Thanks guys, the rear doors are fully shut and it only does it when there is a crosswind at highway speeds. Bummer that there aren't any usable visors from Ford. Is every one else driving blind too, or are there some aftermarket ones out there anyone has found. I can't imagine driving the truck for years like this. I'm 5'8", shorter drivers must be going through worse than me.
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    I wear a hat. Adjusting the tilt of the hat or my head sets the visor position. It's really a carry over from being in the military, but it still works with a civilian hat. ;-)
  • todd1965todd1965 Posts: 16
    I just upgraded my rims and tires from 255/70R/16 to 285/60R/18, had my speedometer adjusted to post the correct speed. Is there anything else I need to do to ensure that I don't do any harm to Ford F-15 SC.
  • I have a 1983 Ford F150 2x4 pickup truck that needs some TLC. I have been experience a problem and hoping someone out there can assist me with their knowledge. On a nice sunny day the truck runs great, but on a rainy, or snowy day the truck does not like to run. When it rains the only way the truck keeps running is, if I have my foot on the gas. As soon as I take it off the pedal the engine starts to shake and the battery gauge moves back and forth, as if the truck was going to shut off, but then soon does. Many people have told me that it could be the spark plugs wires, spark plugs, distrubter cap, and the rotator. I have put all of this in and still experience the same problem. I am out of ideas. Please help.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    I too would have told you to replace the rotor, dist cap, wires, and sparkplugs. Overall, these are not that expensive and are the problem with hard starting and missing on older vehicles.

    I hope you got the pre-formed wires with plugs already on both ends. I've never have very good luck in cutting wires and getting what I thought was good connections out of those 'make your own' wire sets. If you've done this, I recommend you get another set of pre-formed ones.

    In general, you must have a short somewhere in the ignition or charging wiring. I can't give you any more advise about where to look. Unless there is some kind of open connection in the alternator that moisture is getting to, it should be in a wire.

    Something you might try - get a spray bottle that will put out a strong mist. Start that sucker up in a dark place and start misting around in various places. You might be able to see a electric arc, or you might be able to narrow the search down when the spray hits a certain area under the hood. Keep away from the fan in the dark!!!!

    Another thought. On Fords of mid/late 70's, there were a lot of problems with an electronic ignition control box. These problems were mostly caused by heat. My wife had a 1978 Tbird that would not start hot. I put a bag of ice on this box (on driver side fender well), and after a few minutes it fired right up! And the after market parts places had the 'box', and said they sold a lot of them.
    Happy hunting!
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
      By changing the tires/wheels you're probably not hurting anything. The new rubber is about 1.5 inches bigger in diameter - so as long as it doesn't rub on the insides of the front wheel wells when you're making tight turns, everything should be fine. You had the speedometer ratio changed, so everything should be reading accurately.
       Only shortcoming with the larger diameter tires is that you lowered your final drive ratio a bit. Not sure what's in your F150, but if it started out with say 3.23:1 rear axle, the result with the bigger tires might now correspond to like a 3.08:1 ratio. Not a real big drop, but you might notice that the truck is a little bit slower off the line, and has a somewhat harder time getting up to speed if towing a load. However, there's a small benefit, at highway speed you may get an extra mpg or two.
       Folks who go to the real big tires alot of times end up changing out the rear-end gears to a higher ratio to restore the power that they lost.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    But after the intitial 15 minute warm-up period, it runs OK, I bet?
  • vidtechvidtech Posts: 212
    you did not mention the type of fuel system you have.if it has a carb.i would check for possible carb or throttle body icing.i had similiar problem with an old ford.check to make sure the heat tube which provides heated intake air is working properly.
  • bolivarbolivar Posts: 2,316
    Hey, I agree.

    I now remember a mistake I made years ago.

    I had 72 Corvette with true dual exhausts. After replacing the right muffler two times, and the left one was still good, I came up with the great idea of wiring the 'flapper' open on the right exhaust manifold. This would, according to my brillant mind, allow the right exhaust system, including the muffler, to warm up more, especially on those short trips which were obviously leaving lots of water in the right muffler and rotting it out in a short time. (Remember, this was the days of leaded gas, and muffler replacement was a normal maintenance item. Unleaded gas saves us from this problem.)

    Of course, this weighted flapper and spring valve was dirverting hot exhaust gas across the base of that Quadjet carb.

    Wiring it open caused the car to be deadly. It would start ok when cold. But from an idle, pressing on the gas would cause it to drop dead! After almost being rear-ended a few times at stoplights when the light turned green and I have a stalled out Corvette, I decided my life and my fiberglass bodywork was worth more than the cost of a muffler. Unwiring it solved all the problems I had caused.

    Check this old Ford to see if the carb is getting heat!
  • steve289steve289 Posts: 4
    I have an 02 F350 7.3 power stroke diesel which has a slight vibration. It occurs just before the transmission shifts into high gear at around 40-50 miles per hour. If you are really pushing it you don't feel the vibration;if you are taking it easy you feel a slight vibration just before the shift.

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