Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

1246771

Comments

  • We have a 1997 F150 which is rusting on the inside bottom of the 3rd door and the inside of the passenger door. Dealer said it would have to rust through in order for Ford to pay for anything. Has anyone had similar problems? Any fix from the dealer? This is the first new truck/car we have owned that has started to rust in just 4 years of ownership. Seems extreme to me.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Seriously, wouldn't having a short block installed be better than ruining your credit?
  • Why not check out the salvage yards for a motor??? Those around here offer at least a short warranty, basically they guarantee that the motor will work when you install it. Others actually offer a warranty with time/mileage just like the major rebuilders. I don't know which motor you have in your truck or how much a short block vs. salvage yard motor would cost, but it seems to me a 97 F-150 is definitely worth fixing!!! Take it from someone who sees the results of repo's and what they can do to your financial future, don't do it! If you let the bank have the truck, then you lose control over how much the truck is sold for and therefore how much you will owe the bank after the truck is sold. At least if you sell it, you can attempt to get as much as possible whereas the bank may let it go at the first offer they get. Also, if you sell/let the bank have the truck, do you have another vehicle? If you do, maybe you should sell the truck. If not, it will cost you just as much, or more, to go buy a "beater" as it will to fix the truck. I don't know about you, but if I had the choice of driving a 97 F-150 or a "beater" for the same money, guess which I would choose.

    I have had similar experiences with factory recalls. I used to own a 1987 GMC truck. I didn't buy it new, but I bought it from the local dealer in 87 with only 4,000 miles on it. I always garage my vehicles and keep them waxed, the paint started coming off before the truck was two years old. If you remember, GM did a recall. Guess what, mine wasn't part of it. The recall specified a certain date, which was the build date for the trucks at the beginning of the recall period. My truck, being a very late 87 model, was built after that beginning build date. I was told, by the dealers in the area, that since my truck was the old body style, mine wasn't included. Factories do this all the time, for the cost of a paint job, they could have kept me as a loyal customer. Instead, now I own all Fords and would NEVER consider a GM product.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    It seems manufacturers are quite short sighted when it comes to keeping customers happy and loyal. They will, as my Dad used to say, "Gag on a gnat and swallow a camel." I think Walmart has the right idea. Satisfy the customer if there is a problem, even if it costs at the time, and that act will return manyfold the profit from a happy repeat customer. Auto manufacturers don't look at it that way, however.

    I agree with mullins87. Don't let your credit be ruined because of a blown engine and lose an otherwise good truck to boot. If you can't do the work yourself and know a good independent mechanic see what they can do for you. Some engine rebuilders will provide you a rebuilt and do the install themselves. You didn't say what engine you have, but if it has inherent problems I would also consider changing to another that doesn't.
  • I just bought a 99 F250 SD with the turbo diesel engine. When I purchased the truck, I asked the previous owner if it was keyless entry, since all he had was one key. He mentioned that he never did have a transmitter (he bought the truck used as well). The truck has power windows and door locks. My question is, is there a way to determine if the truck is actually a keyless entry truck? If there is a way, and it does turn out that it should have a remote transmitter for door locks and such, can I order another from the dealer, or am I S.O.L.? Thanks bunches.
  • You can order the remote from your dealer. They will probably need the VIN or some other ID number. I can't help you with how to determine if it is a "keyless" truck. Mine has power windows and locks, but the keyless is not mentioned on the window sticker.
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    I think I know how you can determine if you have keyless entry or not..

    How the key fob's are programmed is:
    a. have all of the fob's that you want to program with you (up to 4)

    b. put the key in the ignition
    c. cycle it 6 (or 8) times from the off to the run, back to off position. Do this within 10 seconds.
    The door locks will lock/unlock to indicate that it's in 'program' mode.
    Leave the key in the run position.
    d. press a button each of the fobs.
    e. turn the key to the 'off' position. programming is complete..

    My guess is that if you have keyless, you'll know it at step c. when the locks cycle.. in your case you don't have any fob's to program..

    I really like this programming feature because I use the same fob for my superduty and escape.
  • I am sure that this is a stupid question, but what are you referring to as "fob's"

    thanks
  • bessbess Posts: 972
    Sorry, fob is what is referred to as the little remote control that attaches to the keychain.
  • It seems to come on when ever it wants. I start the truck and it comes on, then sometimes when I close the door it turns off or stays on. I cant drive with my 3rd Brake light on every second. And when I turn my truck of, It sometimes remain on. This will drain my battery. This is a problem with my passenger door. Does anyone have suggestions? Anyone had this problem? Please help! Truck is a 1998 F150 XL Flare.
  • hutch7hutch7 Posts: 88
    I think I remember seeing a thread about this problem at f150online.com.
  • Yeah I found it thanks.
  • bmaigebmaige Posts: 140
    I understand that some banks are now using NADA online rather than buying the books to check used vehicle values before financing. At least one user I know said it requires them to enter the VIN and that will not only give them a price, it will tell exactly how the vehicle is configured with options, so the specific vehicle can be priced. I am sure that is only true of factory options, however, and not add-ons. Seems that might be a good way to insure what you have on a vehicle before you buy it, or, if you have a good buddy that is a loan officer at a bank that uses this, ask him/her to check it for you. It costs the bank each time they use it, I believe, so they may not want to do that. You might want to try that on your truck to see if you have keyless entry.
  • kit1404kit1404 Posts: 128
    Ford had plenty of defective door switches and I would guess you have one. Would check with a dealer - tell them you know it is a known problem and expect it to be at least covered under a "service bulletin". It's not that easy to fix - getting to that little switch isn't easy. Would make an argument for at least some warranty support. Ford will probably make it right.
  • Yeah I fixed the problem. As was suggested all it needed was WD40. I sprayed it where the door jamb is and problem solved. I think that they would of probably did the same thing at the dealer. So problem has been solved.
  • My next door neighbor recently purchased a 2001 f-150 ex-cab pickup identical to my 2000 model. But he has had problems with tire wear feathering dealer talk on outside of front tires and his 5.4 idles a lot rougher than mine does. Has any body else had problems like this and if so what did the dealer do.
  • just got t-bone at an intersection in my 97 f150 an my daughters center seat belt in the back seat came unbuckled and she was tossed around. I've heard that ford had a problem with this but can't find any info. ANY HELP ????
  • I Just bought a 99 f250 xlt super cab power stroke . The air bag warning light flashes then stays on. The other problem i have is when the truck is ideling the rpm's will shoot up to around 1500. Are there any ideas out there?
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I have a '99 F-350.

    Let me guess, the airbag light flashes two times, pauses, flashes three times, pauses. This cycle repeats itself three times, then the light stays on. You might want to see if your horn and cruise control works. If they don't, then a device called a "clock spring" in the steering column is broken. This device apparently supplies power to everything in the steering wheel. Mine broke back in the summer. It cost about $100 at the dealership to fix.

    The other "problem" you mentioned is not one at all. There is a program in the on board computer that kicks the Powerstroke into a high idle if left unattended for a length of time. The length of time is shorter the colder the engine. I believe International did this to help keep up engine temperature, oil pressure and to help prevent "wet stacking", I think that's what it's called. I've never noticed mine doing it in hot weather, but does it all the time when it's cold. The idle speed should return to normal when you touch the accelerator, brake or clutch pedals. I like the feature, that way you don't have to worry about the engine when you leave it for a few minutes. Also keeps the cab nice and toasty on those really cold days.

    On a side note; What do you think of your truck so far?
  • mrbid1mrbid1 Posts: 4
    Has anyone ever had any problems with the water channels cracking on the cab of an F 150 extended cab? If so, what must be done?
  • Thanks for your reply. I tryed the horn and it works. I haven't tested the cruise yet but that doesn't seem to be the problem. As far as the idle your comments solved that problem. I like the truck although when I first got it there didn't seem to be as much power as my 95 power stroke. When I was buying the truck I noticed a fuel leak under the engine, I had the dealer check it out. It was an o-ring in a fuel line. I got it home and changed the fuel filter it was black. Ran much better after that but still doesn't seem to have the power it should.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I am assuming you have changed the air filter also. The '99 should run circles around that '95, unless you just happen to have an exceptional one. There could be several factors with the power problem. I'd say start at the air intake and work through the engine all the way to the tail pipe looking for something simple that might be causing it. On the other hand, is this truck different from the '95 model, other than the obvious.

    About the air bag, you got me on that one. Your problem sounded just like mine at first. I've never fooled with an air bag system before, and don't plan on it either.
  • Thats obviously an isolated problem and I would get rid of that truck as soon as possible. Ford sells whoa a lotta trucks and thats a new one here.F150 xcab door cracks were happening for a while but not roof cracks.Only one other person I heard of bought a new Supercrew and had a roof tear, but this was on a sunroof vehicle.Ford central office shipped him out ANOTHER truck. No questions asked,No arguements like GM B.S. with piston slap motors.Ditch that truck and get something else.
  • gimpyrxgimpyrx Posts: 198
    Should I sell my 2001 King Ranch Supercrew & get the 2002 Harley Supercharged Supercrew? Any problems that ya know of?
  • mrbid1mrbid1 Posts: 4
    Since I posted the problem, I contacted the body shop at the dealership. Their response was they are familiar with this happening, however they do not see a lot of it. The manager told me he repairs on average of one per month. The cracks are what I would call a hair line crack, but still it should not happen. They are willing to correct the problem and should. Would like to know if anyone else has experienced this problem, and if so, what was their approach to repairing and was it successful. I really do not want to get rid of the truck if it can be repaired correctly.
  • hutch7hutch7 Posts: 88
    mrbid1,
    I had a '97 F-150 with this problem (along with many others), they fixed it in the body shop by removing the old solder and re-sealing it, seemed to work fine. You should not have to pay for this! It is a very common problem in the F-150.
  • mrbid1mrbid1 Posts: 4
    Hutch7,

    Thanks for the info!
  • I am in the process of buying a 2002 King Ranch supercrew 4wd. Tom (a.k.a. gimpyrx), how do you like yours? Have you put it on the market yet? Any information would be helpful. Is the castano leather holding up well? Does the t.v. screen have good resolution and visibility in daylight (for anyone who has an entertainment system). Tom, I am interested in discussing your vehicle with you.
  • tom18tom18 Posts: 89
    Have very low mileage on a 2000 F350 4x4 just had to have new ball joints installed and something done with the spring tip isolators - already experienced door ajar light problems twice, Cd had to be removed and fixed, window washer not working found to have loose parts - gets 9 to 10 miles to the gallon - warranty in its last year - they want $2000 per year for best extended warranty - you can buy a new car for that in 7 yrs (length of warranty) - I like the look of the truck and it can do many things, but I am worried. I was planning to keep my truck for a long time, but now I wonder. What happened to "Ford Tough"?
  • tom18tom18 Posts: 89
    Rechecking warranty explained as $2000 for remaining 4 yrs with a deductible each time a problem occurs - still a hard call for me
This discussion has been closed.