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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • ammojeffammojeff Posts: 2
    Alright heres the problem. The fuzable link between the altenatoer and the starter relay keeps on blowing every time i hook up the battery and I have now idea how to fix it. The altenator is perfectly fine, it is brand new. And of corse so is the fuzable link everytime I put one in. Any help would do fine thanks
  • mcfaddenmcfadden Posts: 1
    Just talked to my Ford Service Mgr. He was unable to hear the popping sound my 2003 F150 FX4 was making. After about a 10 second ride along test drive he was able to hear my problem. Solution... replaced the ball joints,upper and lower control arms with only 42,000 on the truck. Now I finally feel justified for buying the extended warranty. Big $$$ for known problem. When is Ford going to step up and fix this problem....
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Start disconnecting stuff before hooking up the new fusible link. Usually the regular fuses protect all of the accessories and stuff. Fusible link is there to protect the battery (and prevent a fire) in the event that something shorts out between battery and those fuses. So whats there? The battery cables, the alternator/voltage regulator, and not much else. So disconnect things, put a new link in and then start replacing them one at a time. You should be able to figure where the problem is.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I expect you're all aware of the issue regarding F-series, among others, catching fire due to a faulty cruise control switch on the master cylinder. The switch was fitted up until '04, when it was updated. The vehicle can catch fire at any time, while being driven or when parked. Over 16 million vehicles have the switch fitted.

    Here's a link to CNNs Ford FAQs: Fire FAQs

    Here's a link to one of the many Ford fire stories on CNN: FloridaFordFire

    Here's a link to Ford to check if your vehicle has been recalled (they're only recalling up to 2000 at the moment): Ford Recall
  • 19902501990250 Posts: 1
    i have a 1990 f-250 deisel 7.3 litre and I accidently had my battery hooked up backwards for a second and I think one of the fuseable links blew. I could see smoke coming from behind the battery any way. Now I have no overdrive, my tac doesn't work nor do my back-up lights. Anyone with any information would be appreciated.
  • stop4itstop4it Posts: 3
    Hi,
    The Ford eng came and said the problem was the parking brake, it was replaced and lasted till I took a long drive about 100 miles, Ford eng is coming back, Meanwhile the BBB said they would like to have it resoved in 40 days.
    All I can say is FORD LIES about their problems, They hope if they put you off enoughyou will go away...Sorry Ford not me.... :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • jrobertjrobert Posts: 3
    Does that have EFI? If so check the fuel pressure. Check the timing next. Pinging is usually from running too lean or an advanced timing setting. If that is ok, I would lean towards a catalytic convertor that may be partially plugged.
  • jrobertjrobert Posts: 3
    What you need to think about is this. How many transmissions, springs, front ends and rear ends have you seen that lasted this long. I just bought a 94 F250 gas job with 88k on it. In the last year it has had all of these things done to it. Ball joints, steering linkage, u-joints, emergency brake cables, all brake lines, all fuel lines, front calipers and rotors, radiator, heater motor, tranfer case output shaft seal, complete exhaust, transmission cooler lines, power steering pump and the brake master cylinder. Here's what it still needs. Steering box sector shaft seal, front springs sagging 1/2" causing the front end to be out of alignment and both fuel tanks leak on the top. Hopefully this will answer your question for you. Yes the motor will get 300+ miles with no problem.
  • jrobertjrobert Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Ford F250 with power steering. The sector shaft seal was leaking on it. I replaced it and the power steering pump as it was groaning a lot. After bleeding off the air in the system and running the motor a few minutes. The new sector shaft seal literally blew out of the box. There is no groove in the box to hold the snap ring in place. Anyone experience this problem with a Ford? I put the seal back up in and put in 2 snap rings. Again it blew both of the snap rings and the seals out of the box.
  • dog150dog150 Posts: 2
    2004 150, crew cab, long bed, payload pack, 5.4.. terrible vibration and slack problems. My problems started at 300 miles. First they replaced the tires, then they balanced the new tires again, indexed the drive shaft, etc. The problem is still there. Engine idle problems-cab shakes at idle. Throttle problems-if I push the pedal slightly, the truck surges, if I push it hard it won't spin the tires unless it is wet. Bad shudder when towing even light load. If I try to pass, the truck won't go and the trans doesn't know which gear to grab. If I slow down, the truck clanks when I speed up. Ford's solution? Tires, drive shaft, rotors, differential clutches, steering rack, re-program the computer, NOTHING HAS CHANGED! Told me I'm not used to the drive by wire system, I'll get used to it. Transmission bang is normal. They offered to extend my warranty but only if I give up my lemon law rights. Generous offer.
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    I always thought Ford was the way to go for pickups. Even light duty F150s. Wow. A quick scan of these posts gives me pause.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    The usual answer to a post like yours is to say that this is a forum for F-series problems, so what do you expect? These problems are random and only represent a tiny percentage of Ford truck owners, right?

    Unfortunately, when I combine the posts here with first hand knowledge of the experiences of more than ten 'new F-150' owners, I have to say that I think there's something serious developing here.

    Every owner of the 'new F-150' that I know personally, has a problem that's yet to be fixed. Virtually all have vibration problems, and a couple have transmission problems as well.

    I'm so glad I didn't buy one (I wanted a 4X4 SuperCrew), and as a long time satisfied Ford owner that makes me sad.
  • I have a 2004 supercab that has just developed vibrations, although not violent at about 11000 miles. It feels like maybe something on a tire but is not the case. It will do it for awhile and it goes away. Can't figure it out but ir seems to be happening more often. I will bring it to the dealer and see what they say. Other that this it is a great truck.
  • I am looing for a 4x4 truck and was interested in the f150 fx4 but after reading these posts i am sticking with the toyota tundra. i saw a commercial the other day with a f150 and a tundra and the guy in the f150 was getting towed away, i laughed but after reading these posts maybe there's some truth to that. anyway it's unfortunate that people are paying a premium for these trucks and ending up with a fixer upper. ford had better start addressing these problems because people like me looking to buy a truck are reading these forums. it's sad to hear about the problems but thanks for posting so people like me can make good decisions.
  • dog150dog150 Posts: 2
    My truck is not the norm. In my family there are two other 150s (new) and they are trouble free. Alot has to do with the dealer. My dealer was Walker Ford in Clearwater, Florida. Denial of problems or can't duplicate is their way of calling me a liar. Couple that with them giving me a Focus instead of my work truck for days on end (a ploy to inconvenience me so I won't keep bringing the truck back) and you have one irate customer.
  • duneriderdunerider Posts: 2
    I have a 93 f-150 4x4 with a 300-6cyl and a 5-spd. I bought the truck about 10000 miles ago and it had what I thought was a weak clutch then. So I replaced it. At first all was well. But not long after ( Maybe a week) it went back to it's regular old self. Not engaging until it's very high on it's release. Any ideas?
  • maskidmaskid Posts: 1
    Hi wpalkowski
    I have exactly the same problem with my 98 F-150. Just like your problem, mine started on a cold morning of last winter. It started as an intermittent problem. It is now summer and this problem happens every time if I turn on the right turn signal fast. It seems to work ok if I turn it on slowly. Let me know if you found a solution to this problem.
  • chelseechelsee Posts: 2
    Ford just bought back my 2004 F150 FX4 crew cab on Friday with the same problem. Seem they know they have this problem and after 4 repair visits could not fix it.. I took it to the Ford Arbitration and then to my state Attorney Generals office. They offered to give back my warranty money too . Unfortunely i had to buy a 2005 F150 on Friday and its was in the shop by Tuesday and still there today. (It wont come out of park) Seem like i'm buying Japenesse next time ! :sick: :sick: :sick:
  • niemerniemer Posts: 1
    My apologies in advance for the lenght of this post, but I could use some assistance:

    My 2004 F-150 experienced a similar problem posed by lima1. As I was backing out of a parking space, I had to take the truck out of reverse and put it in drive to re-adjust... immediately after the truck was in drive and I let my foot off the brake, the truck surged forward. I tried one foot on the brake and then two, but the truck kept accelerating towards a chainlink fence and a busy 4-lane road. I was half way through the fence before I could put the truck in park to stop the motion.

    The entire front of my truck now looks like the chainlink fence it ran through. Ford roadside assistance was helpful, but now the dealer is having a difficult time locating the problem (and believing the situation).

    It appears that Explorers have had a few instances of this problem with injuries invlolved, and another website has a story where another 2004 F-150 rear-ended some one at a stop light due to this problem.

    Can anyone else shed some light to this situation, especially in getting Ford to own up to their problem?
  • bnelson1bnelson1 Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2005, 6.0 power stroke and am considering a power performance module. I don't know anyone who has one in their vehicles but I have heard that they can enhance performance and gas mileage. I'm interested in Edge products, Bullydog, and Banks. They all sound reputable. They claim that these are 10 minutes installations (by whom?). Are these modules intended to be installed by average mechanic? Is it necessary to buy the higher-end module with controller, monitor and gauge?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • rjspaethrjspaeth Posts: 4
    I am having a vibration problem mainly in the steering wheel on my 2005 F150 :sick: SuperCrew. I have had this vibration since new and it seems to become noticeable at 65 MPH.

    I had the vehicle in for service twice and they were not able to fix the problem yet but now said they will order me 3 new tires and that the tires were probably the problem.

    I will have the vehicle in for service on Monday, 6/27. Guess I will see if this fixes the problem. Other than this I love my truck, and I am hoping that the problem I am having isn't as bad as some are describing above.
  • stop4itstop4it Posts: 3
    That is great they bought it back, I am trying
  • deanadeana Posts: 2
    I just bought a used 2000 f150 4x4 trition v8 5.4 automatic with 84000 miles. It runs great, although I notice that it kicks into gear harder when I'm accelerating at a fast speed. If I'm going 65 and push it to pass another vehicle getting the rpm up to 3 or 4,it seems to shift hard when going back to 2 rpms. Is this normal with the automatic overdrive, or do I need to get it serviced?
  • duneriderdunerider Posts: 2
    I really could use some help here please. Any ideas at all? Thanks
  • blckislandguyblckislandguy Posts: 1,150
    I see lots of posts about vibration problems and wonder if there is one particular model that is afflicted? Maybe the the SuperCrew with the long box? I think it would help potential Ford buyers (both new and used) avoid problems and help Ford fix the darn problem if it could be isolated to a particular drive train, wheel base and/or body style.

    Diablo_Dude mentions in passing "paying a premium for these trucks" which just isn't the case. A smaller Toyota with less power is going to cost 10K MORE up front than the F150 but have much more resale value. Speaking of resale, I'll bet that if you could identify the F150 wheelbase/body/drivetrain that is problematic, you could pick up a good deal on a used "04 w/0 that problem!
  • Regardless of whether it's a Toyota, GM or whatever, paying that much for ANY truck is a premium and as such you would expect a quality product. When I made that statement it wasn't specifically referring to the f150 but to all trucks in that category and how did you get 10K more for a toyota, what are you comparing?
  • tadragtadrag Posts: 10
    I think my vibration problem is identified. When I leave the truck sit for several days of wet weather with the emergency brake engaged, I get the vibration. Apparently the area where the shoes are in contact with the drum don't rust and the other areas in the drum rust. Then when you start down the road the differential in surface, diameter, whatever causes the vibration to start. Stopping and restarting doesn't change anything. Stepping lightly on the emergency brake pedal when in vibration mode makes it much worse. After a few miles of this it seems to go away. Seems this is the problem, not sure what the fix might be, maybe stainless drums?
  • sharkmonsharkmon Posts: 1
    In agreeance with diablo_dude. I've been looking for a good crew cab truck in the Seattle area for about a year. I keep looking back at the 2005 F-150 crew cab 4x4, but I keep reading reviews in various online sites that the F-150 reliability is marginal at best - almost downright crappy. I hear more and more about vibration and the overabundance of anger and time spent on existing owners trying to isolate and fix their problems.
    I'm pretty upset over this, as I have a '99 Ford Ranger that's been flawless (bought new and has 87k on it as of June 2005) and I LOVE its unbeatable comfortable interior and that of the '05 F-150. Damnit. Oh well. Not worth the unreliability risk.
    The '05 or '06 RAM, TITAN and TUNDRA seem to be the three I'll be whittling it down to. Ram is coming out with a new XXXL crew cab around July or August 2005; I'll be test driving that one as well. PASS on the Chevy 1500. I tested one and the power, styling and interior doesn't seem to have been touched since what appears to be the late 1980s or early 1990s! The interior has the cheapest crap in it I've seen across the board. It's an insult to think the expect us to buy this thing when there are so many other trucks out there that trounce it in appearance and power. Seriously, pass on the Chevy 1500.
    Too bad Mexico doesn't make a truck for the American market. Oh, wait...they do. Isn't it called a Ford?
    --Mark in Seattle.
  • I am the owner of a 2005 Ford F150 4X4 with the 5.4L 3V motor. I have owned the truck 3 weeks. The truck developed a tapping noise coming from the passenger side of the motor. The dealer read a technical service bulletin stating there is a seal issue on the cam for some 2004-2005 5.4L motors with the 3 valve motor. A kit was developed to solve the problem. Upon installing the kit the check engine light came on with multiple DTC's. The dealer got a another technical service bulletin with 9 pages of steps to follow starting with installing a new alternator. Its been two weeks. I am driving a Taurus loaner car and paying for a $35,000 Ford F150. Well, sort of paying for the truck. It is not yet time for my first payment. I should have gone to the Toyota Dealer.
  • wblairwblair Posts: 1
    I recently looked under the rear of my 1999 Ford F 150 and found a hose hanging down. When i looked closer i found that it was connected to the rear axle where two brake lines connect along with another line on the drivers side but could not find where it should be connected to. It has a black plastic nipple with two clips to hold it in place. If any one would have an idea of where it should go i would greatly appreciate the info.
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